Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: dippydave on 23 November 2008, 17:28:32
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oh dear oh dear! My current driving mig ('99 2.0 LPG GLS estate) went a tad cuckoo last night. It was fine on the way to work but on the way home the tacho stayed put at zero and the speedo just wobbled rapidly around the zero mark too :(
any ideas? I've had it out today and still the same. No warning lights on, it drives as normal etc etc. um! i dont wanna get a ticket, but maybe i'll need a tomtom to show me how fast i'm goin!
This couple with the fact the temperature gauge hasn't worked for ages makes for a very dull dash! (i have no idea how to get that working either or where to look on a 16valver for the right cables!) :-/
anyway, as ever, any words of wisdom would be muchos appreciated!
think i got a bangles moment coming.... tomorrow is going to be a very Manic Monday! :D
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With mine when that happened it was fuse 14 that had expired, but there again I had no radio or central consul stuff working either like the c/c display. ::) ::)
Worth a look at your fuses though and I understand miggies can have fuse 14 running different appliances! :y
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Temperature gauge sender is a single wire connection at the back of the engine. Sort of below and inbetween EGR valve and Dispack.
Very hard to get a visual on with everything in place, I got to mine for the first time yesterday after getting scuttle and dispack off for other reasons. The connection is rather unprotected against the elements, could just need a clean up.
:)
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Dave,
Sounds silly, but give the clocks a gentle yet firm push backwards. May be a poor connection into the dash.
If this doesn't fix, check your fuses... and check the battery voltage with engine running..
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thank you for all your help :y will try the clock shoving now james - ta!! and prob be gettin dirty tomoro am!
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thank you for all your help :y will try the clock shoving now james - ta!! and prob be gettin dirty tomoro am!
If you get really stuck give me a shout. I have a spare set of clocks here..
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ABS Module?
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ABS Module?
Did cross my mind - but would you expect an ABS light?
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couldnt wait til morn, so been out in dark with a torch :y
no luck tho :(
tried pushing the dash, no difference. maybe taking it out and checking for connections? weird how that'd happen suddenly tho....
checked all the fuses i could. Fuse 14 seems to be a fine and dandy 30A.
rev counter still does nothing
speedo still flutters like a crazy thing. by the way, that's without starting the car too! just ignition on. and when switched off it flutters for a few seconds before laying still.
no abs or other lights at all.
hmmph.
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do the lights(warning lights/alumination) come on at any point? Eg when you turn the ignition on, when you turn the cars lights on?
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it's component failure on the instrument cluster itself... i've seen it a few times...
replace the clocks, or get them repaired.
new clocks were about £120+VAT when i last looked i think.
can't offhand recall what the most common component failure is... it would be fairly strict forward for an electronics bod.... but to be honest, the time it takes to get it out, disassemble it , fault find , repair and re-fit, could easily come to more than the cost of a new one, and it's not difficult to replace it yourself....
ABS module failure is only likely if only the speedo packs in.,... if both revs and speedo die , unless there's a power feed failed, it's the meter(instrument) drive circuit.
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thanks maxv6 but also big fat boos! i was hoping it to be a loose connection. >:(
the speedo does move, but only fluttering above zero when ignition is on.....(posn 2 and above)
lights wise it's all normal. The ABS/Airbag/oil/battery/water/engine management all come on as normal and go out as normal. when started the others all go out as normal. :( oh why is nothing normal!
would it be alright putting in a cluster from a '96 2.5v6 to a '99 2.0?! 'happen i might have one lying around ;)
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it's component failure on the instrument cluster itself... i've seen it a few times...
replace the clocks, or get them repaired.
new clocks were about £120+VAT when i last looked i think.
can't offhand recall what the most common component failure is... it would be fairly strict forward for an electronics bod.... but to be honest, the time it takes to get it out, disassemble it , fault find , repair and re-fit, could easily come to more than the cost of a new one, and it's not difficult to replace it yourself....
ABS module failure is only likely if only the speedo packs in.,... if both revs and speedo die , unless there's a power feed failed, it's the meter(instrument) drive circuit.
i have one of those for a mate who loves tinkering... and i really don't wanna shell out much on a 178k car!
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it's component failure on the instrument cluster itself... i've seen it a few times...
replace the clocks, or get them repaired.
new clocks were about £120+VAT when i last looked i think.
can't offhand recall what the most common component failure is... it would be fairly strict forward for an electronics bod.... but to be honest, the time it takes to get it out, disassemble it , fault find , repair and re-fit, could easily come to more than the cost of a new one, and it's not difficult to replace it yourself....
ABS module failure is only likely if only the speedo packs in.,... if both revs and speedo die , unless there's a power feed failed, it's the meter(instrument) drive circuit.
i have one of those for a mate who loves tinkering... and i really don't wanna shell out much on a 178k car!
You could get one for peanuts from a scrapper... but make sure it's a 140mph one, not 160mph one..
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ABS Module?
Did cross my mind - but would you expect an ABS light?
Wouldn't affect rev counter!!
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it's component failure on the instrument cluster itself... i've seen it a few times...
replace the clocks, or get them repaired.
new clocks were about £120+VAT when i last looked i think.
can't offhand recall what the most common component failure is... it would be fairly strict forward for an electronics bod.... but to be honest, the time it takes to get it out, disassemble it , fault find , repair and re-fit, could easily come to more than the cost of a new one, and it's not difficult to replace it yourself....
ABS module failure is only likely if only the speedo packs in.,... if both revs and speedo die , unless there's a power feed failed, it's the meter(instrument) drive circuit.
i have one of those for a mate who loves tinkering... and i really don't wanna shell out much on a 178k car!
You could get one for peanuts from a scrapper... but make sure it's a 140mph one, not 160mph one..
aw double boos. one coz i already got a 160mph spare. and two, it'd be funky to have it on a two litre. hehe!
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couldnt wait til morn, so been out in dark with a torch :y
no luck tho :(
tried pushing the dash, no difference. maybe taking it out and checking for connections? weird how that'd happen suddenly tho....
checked all the fuses i could. Fuse 14 seems to be a fine and dandy 30A.
rev counter still does nothing
speedo still flutters like a crazy thing. by the way, that's without starting the car too! just ignition on. and when switched off it flutters for a few seconds before laying still.
no abs or other lights at all.
hmmph.
Mine did the same when i changed the bulbs in the back ::) so took it out again after trying a couple of times and it turned out to be that i wasn't pushing back hard enough so that connector went completly in ;) i just kept pushing it in and then turn the ignition on until the needles didn't flicker anymore :y :y
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couldnt wait til morn, so been out in dark with a torch :y
no luck tho :(
tried pushing the dash, no difference. maybe taking it out and checking for connections? weird how that'd happen suddenly tho....
checked all the fuses i could. Fuse 14 seems to be a fine and dandy 30A.
rev counter still does nothing
speedo still flutters like a crazy thing. by the way, that's without starting the car too! just ignition on. and when switched off it flutters for a few seconds before laying still.
no abs or other lights at all.
hmmph.
Mine did the same when i changed the bulbs in the back ::) so took it out again after trying a couple of times and it turned out to be that i wasn't pushing back hard enough so that connector went completly in ;) i just kept pushing it in and then turn the ignition on until the needles didn't flicker anymore :y :y
well that's a ray of hope in the otherwise replacement gloom. not that i've been near my dash with a screwdriver since owning it, but can now and press all dem connections in 'toit like a toiger' and hope that'll do it!
thanks craig!