Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: ngrainqey on 23 November 2008, 18:43:22
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hiya,
somebody's breaking a 9-5 3.0 turbo (yep very rare)
anyway i thought i'd ask what parts people thought would be worth scavenging off it?
so far i'm thinking
turbo manifold
turbo unit
rods being steel apparently after posts on here
im not sure about the crank and/or pistons as the crank will be higher lift wont it being the 3.0 and the pistons are a larger bore unless i plan on having mine bored out :(
thanks
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Why create all that work, just buy the engine complete with all the gubbins.
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Why create all that work, just buy the engine complete with all the gubbins.
tbh pete i really dont mind the work atm, anyway i'd rather just add to mine as it's what i want atm!
its big black and quite fast but i want it to be faster :P
i'v got two spare heads to use to design the piping for the turbo anyway ;) it's my little model 2.5 engine haha!
anyway that way i can take those heads off, modify them and then do a straight swap to the other engine :P
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oh yeah..
does anybody think it's worth enlarging the valves and what the valves go into (those tube things lol)
and then make some steel valves and new followers?
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Exhaust manifolds are the first thing you should consider replacing ;)
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i'm after some 3.0 saab turbo ones ;)
depends how much this person breaking the 9-5 wants though
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i'm after some 3.0 saab turbo ones ;)
depends how much this person breaking the 9-5 wants though
Doubt they will fit, designed for transversely mounted engines.
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if i'm putting a turbo on then will it really matter as it wont go onto the exhaust without some pipe work?
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I was thinking of the clearance either side of the engine to the chassis rails, the drivers side also has a steering box you may have an issue with. :-/
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The turbo on the Courtney was between the engine and radiator.
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The turbo on the Courtney was between the engine and radiator.
-ok thanks pete, was personally thinking about either a having it at the side of the gearbox (very hard to get to but only really thought about putting it there because it was well on it's way to being joined onto the exhaust) :y
or b have it just round where the coolant transfer pipe is (where the aux belt tensioner is) that sort of area
and to vxl v6's
"I was thinking of the clearance either side of the engine to the chassis rails, the drivers side also has a steering box you may have an issue with."
i'm only on about having a single turbo atm, might end up playing a bit more in time with the t/turbo idea but would really need engine block work doing for that! if i have steering rack problems i'll just chop the pipe coming out of the manifold off and curve it round the steering rack (i'm going to look which side is easier to put the turbo manifold on with the steering rack and getting to it)
thanks
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Found this.... Looks like the breather has vanished!
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa163/vxl_v6/IrmscherV6Turbo.jpg)
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pm sent about turbo..
also I think you must consider the gearbox power handling limit..
2.5 autoboxes are not strong as 3.0 boxes..
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pm sent about turbo..
also I think you must consider the gearbox power handling limit..
2.5 autoboxes are not strong as 3.0 boxes..
i'v got an ar35 to bolt on...and the torque convertor lol ;)
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www.myvideo.de/.../OMEGA_B_MV6_TURBO_MOTORSOUND
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pm sent about turbo..
also I think you must consider the gearbox power handling limit..
2.5 autoboxes are not strong as 3.0 boxes..
i'v got an ar35 to bolt on...and the torque convertor lol ;)
I see you ready :y
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pm sent about turbo..
also I think you must consider the gearbox power handling limit..
2.5 autoboxes are not strong as 3.0 boxes..
i'v got an ar35 to bolt on...and the torque convertor lol ;)
I see you ready :y
well... i'm trying to be haha!
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wow, you must really want some work to do, ive dun a few turbo conversions on non turbo stuff like, astra gte 2.0l 8v, astra 1.7d, astra gte 16v,xr3i, and a 2.0l zetec bottom end into rs turbo with standard 1.6 cvh rs turbo head and 2 transit 2.5d, the transit was the only on that was worth doing as oposed to getin the proper turbo engine
(thats only because those engines are upto taking the heat and boost with no mods) the pistons in no turbo petrol engines are cast were as turbo pistons are forged so non turb pstons will end up with holes in due to all the extra heat, if you only run 6psi they may take it but 6 psi with the lower compresion ratio will hardly be worth the bother, but if u do go thru wth it spacer plates can work if there made and fited corectly but they will alter cam timing slightly wich will reduce power, also the crank bearing shells in turbo engines are tougher so u will need to change them but u will have the sump off anyway to fit the oil drain 4 turbo , u will also need a oil feed to the turbo( oil cooler pipes are a good place for that, if u really want a turbo omega a c20let from calibre really wud be your cheapest and best bet, it might be 500 cc smaller but it will be loads lighter and so will inprove handling and all sorts
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www.myvideo.de/.../OMEGA_B_MV6_TURBO_MOTORSOUND
http://www.myvideo.de/watch/2379583/OMEGA_B_MV6_TURBO_MOTORSOUND
:y :y :y
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www.myvideo.de/.../OMEGA_B_MV6_TURBO_MOTORSOUND
http://www.myvideo.de/watch/2379583/OMEGA_B_MV6_TURBO_MOTORSOUND
:y :y :y
thats what im talking bout ;) lol
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if u are gona do the v6 i just had a thoght, if use 3.0 heads they might lower the compresion enuff because they probably have a bigger combustion chamber than the 2.5 heads and that way you wont need to mess with spacer plates and you will also get extra power from the 3.0 cams, thats assumeing the 3.0 heads will fit a 2.5 and assuming the combustion chambers are bigger wich they will be unless they have used the pistons to make them bigger, you should ask somebody on the forum that knows more about the v6 heads as i've never looked at them, if they can work you will save lots of time and money and do away with unreliable spacer plates
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the saab rods will be no good as they are likely to be longer to support the lengthened stroke of the 3.0.
3.0 heads will lower the compression to about 9.5:1 ish.
Fit oil jets into the rods for piston cooling.
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the saab rods will be no good as they are likely to be longer to support the lengthened stroke of the 3.0.
3.0 heads will lower the compression to about 9.5:1 ish.
Fit oil jets into the rods for piston cooling.
it seems a good solution for turbo.. ::)
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the saab rods will be no good as they are likely to be longer to support the lengthened stroke of the 3.0.
3.0 heads will lower the compression to about 9.5:1 ish.
Fit oil jets into the rods for piston cooling.
it seems a good solution for turbo.. ::)
wouldnt adding oil jets into the rods weaken them?
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the saab rods will be no good as they are likely to be longer to support the lengthened stroke of the 3.0.
3.0 heads will lower the compression to about 9.5:1 ish.
Fit oil jets into the rods for piston cooling.
it seems a good solution for turbo.. ::)
wouldnt adding oil jets into the rods weaken them?
no alex they are already in rods just need releasing ! :y
also i have a mint set of 3.0 heads here fully refurbed all new inlet valves but i want £150 for them matey !! :y
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the saab rods will be no good as they are likely to be longer to support the lengthened stroke of the 3.0.
3.0 heads will lower the compression to about 9.5:1 ish.
Fit oil jets into the rods for piston cooling.
it seems a good solution for turbo.. ::)
wouldnt adding oil jets into the rods weaken them?
no alex they are already in rods just need releasing ! :y
also i have a mint set of 3.0 heads here fully refurbed all new inlet valves but i want £150 for them matey !! :y
ok thanks markey... i'll have to get back to you on the heads ;)
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I just checked courtenay for forged pistons.. only 86.5 mm pistons exists ( 2.0 ) ..Will check other sites :-/
But as far as I know 3.2 have steel crank..
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3.2 is wrong stroke/lift hight
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3.2 is wrong stroke/lift hight
bad chance :-/
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might just buy some 3.0 heads like markeys and then run at about 6psi (which would be slightly lower comp ratio than the 2.5's) so should run slightly cooler