Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Ralph on 28 November 2008, 18:40:33
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Hi,
I've just replaced my front disc pads, while doing this I noticed that the 2 fittings on the caliper that the securing bolts thread in to do not move. As these have hex heads I'm wondering if these should turn, both sides are the same, brakes still seem to work Ok though
Question is are they seized, will they free off?
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Hi,
I've just replaced my front disc pads, while doing this I noticed that the 2 fittings on the caliper that the securing bolts thread in to do not move. As these have hex heads I'm wondering if these should turn, both sides are the same, brakes still seem to work Ok though
Question is are they seized, will they free off?
i dont think your supposed to take those off unless your taking the caliper apart- i dont quite get which hex heads you mean?
picture maybe?
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These aren't mine, I don't fancy crawling under the car outside at the moment it's a bit chilly. I've indicated the bits I meant.
(http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/pp179/ralphhwatson/caliper.jpg)
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yes them parts should turn and slide in and out :o
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Well mine must all be seized solid then, I'll have to try to free them off tomorrow.
They don't look as if they are meant to be sevicable, do the sliding / turning parts come out or do I need new caliper carriers?
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While they are bolted they wont turn but they should move in and out. They are there so you can undo the bolt on the end once this is undone then they will turn, but dont turn them to far or you can rip the rubber gaiter :y .
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They didn't appear to move at all in/out or turn even with the calipers removed. Will try copious amounts of WD40 tomorrow.
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They WONT turn while the bolt is done up undo the bolt you will need 2 spanners 12 or 13mm from memory. Once you have removed the bolts you can remove that side of the caliper the nut you point out is the top of a pin that the caliper body side on.
You can now remove the pin/rubber gaiter, they are prone to seizing or in extreme bending but this is unlikely. You may well find that the gaiters have perished or split this allows water and crud in easy fix and all will be very obvious.
Get a Hynes manual it's all in there matey good luck let us know how you get on.
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Thanks Techno,
I had the bolts out to get the caliper off to replace the pads but I didnt have to hold that nut to get the bolts out or to replace them.
I'll have a go at them tomorrow, I'll let you know how it goes.
I didn't think the Haynes manual covered the facelift models but I may try to find one, I guess the brake system won't be much different.
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Your right it doesn't but facelift is just that facelift underneath most of the car is the same as older models the brakes for one :y
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The slider's allow the caliper to move as you press the brake pedal which allows for wear of the pads. If they don't slide with ease you will here a clonk when you brake thus the sliding bolts are not moving.
What you need is (I think) a 17 mm spanner and free them both off, once you have done this you should be able to remove them but may need to use some force if they feel tight. once you have them both removed you need to clean them with a wire brush or emery cloth to remove the rust thats built up on them. Then clean the inside of the housing as much as you can. Once this has been done then smear the sliding bolts with grease (copper grease is ideal) and replace into the housing and slide in and out whilst twisting. Continue to do this until they slide in and out very easy, replace the rubber boot if you can and that should be now ok, your caliper should now move from side to side with ease.
HTH
Paul :y
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Hi Paul,
That's exactly what I am getting, a distinct clonk, usually only once a day usually as I apply the brakes at the end of my road on the way to work, seems ok after that till the following morning.
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Hi Ralph,
Try using Plus-Gas instead of WD40 as latter is not really a penetrating oil :).
When i did mine i cleaned out the slide hole with a fine round file and plenty of lubricant then smoothed with some wet & dry and finally smeared in cooper grease, worked a treat :y.
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Thanks all for the advice.
Got it done, fairly straightforward apart from the o/s bottom one which didn't want to come out, had to use a hammer & chisel on it.
All is well now clonk has gone.
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Did you get a Haynes Ralph?
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Did you get a Haynes Ralph?
No i've bought a CD version which claims to cover all models/ variants. For the price I'll take a chance.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=250332911258