Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Col147 on 06 December 2008, 23:49:47
-
Hi all, i have an S reg 2l 16v omega and i`m having major problems trying to get it to drive in a straight line. I changed the O/S wishbone cos it started to drift to one side during medium braking but noticed a little bit more movement in the front bush of the new wishbone compared to the old one on the N/S but then a week or so after fitting the wishbone, i started getting problems with the steering, it skits about all over the road and the tyres squeal really badly on dry days. I`ve had the tracking checked out at a few places but it`s made no difference but nobody seems to know what the problem is. Its an absolute deathtrap on uneven roads and it`s chewing my tyres to bits in no time at all. If any of you guys or girls have ever come across this or ever heard of it before, it would be a HUGE help and much appreciated if you would get back to me with a solution.
Thanks
Colin
-
wheels in motion for full geometry set up.
Or pm Albatross for password to the oof map. It has oof approved set up companys, pic the nearest to you. Tracking a waste of time. Probably camber is out.
I would suggest , before you get it set up, that you check wishbone bushes, stearing idler, and for broken springs first. As any subsequent replacement parts will throw the set up out again.
Also check the rear donut bushes, theses had alot of play on my car and failed the mot. Carlton/senator bushes tighten things very nicely.
Ps did you torque the wishbone bolts with the car on the floor/ suspension loaded?
-
Hi mate, thanks for the reply. I fitted the wishbone on a 2 poster ramp so the wheels were left hanging, the car has also just passed it`s mot so all bushes and springs and things should be ok. I`ve heard that on these cars, things like wishbones have to be replaced in pairs tho, don`t know how true that is. Can the camber be adjusted on these cars, i don`t know a great deal about them yet lol, my main car is a Nissan Skyline but i`ve always wanted an OmegaCDX, it`s a great car but i just can`t drive it at the mo. If i drive the car forward then stop and get out, the front sits quite high, as if there`s no engine in it but if i reverse it, it comes back down again.
-
Hi mate, thanks for the reply. I fitted the wishbone on a 2 poster ramp so the wheels were left hanging, the car has also just passed it`s mot so all bushes and springs and things should be ok. I`ve heard that on these cars, things like wishbones have to be replaced in pairs tho, don`t know how true that is. Can the camber be adjusted on these cars, i don`t know a great deal about them yet lol, my main car is a Nissan Skyline but i`ve always wanted an OmegaCDX, it`s a great car but i just can`t drive it at the mo. If i drive the car forward then stop and get out, the front sits quite high, as if there`s no engine in it but if i reverse it, it comes back down again.
Sorry yes, should change suspension parts in pairs, should have said. Camber is adjustable as is castor trail and toe.
The rear is multi adjustable as well.
Dont trust the mot to find all worn or broken parts. Many a members car has passed with shot bushes and springs. Of 15 members at the wheels in motion knowledge day 13 cars could not be set up due to shot bushes, s idler, or broken springs. All had a valid mot.
Front brakes binding? Maybe?
-
What i`ll do then is get the car back up on the ramp, change the other wishbone, check springs and bushes and things but would that cause the camber to be out too, when the car is movin forward, i get negative camber and when its in reverse, i get positive camber. Does that sound odd or do you reckon it will be all related to the same problem.
Thanks again
-
Right....well your new wishbone front bush will be buggered....because the bolts were tightened with the wheels hanging they will have been twisted as the weight was re-applied to the front suspension.....and over a short period of time this will have ripped the bush.
Camber is adjustable....and wishbone changes normaly throw the toe out far more than the camber
-
What i`ll do then is get the car back up on the ramp, change the other wishbone, check springs and bushes and things but would that cause the camber to be out too, when the car is movin forward, i get negative camber and when its in reverse, i get positive camber. Does that sound odd or do you reckon it will be all related to the same problem.
Thanks again
Front bush buggered so the hub is moving relative to the top mount
-
What i`ll do then is get the car back up on the ramp, change the other wishbone, check springs and bushes and things but would that cause the camber to be out too, when the car is movin forward, i get negative camber and when its in reverse, i get positive camber. Does that sound odd or do you reckon it will be all related to the same problem.
Thanks again
Right, sounds to me like its toed in to much,
like so
/ \
l l
The tires are being scrubbed on the outside edge going forward and forcing the contact patch of the tire in and stressing the bushes still further.
-
as said get it all fixed and down for a full geometry set up.
-
[/quote]Right, sounds to me like its toed in to much,
like so
/ \
l l
The tires are being scrubbed on the outside edge going forward and forcing the contact patch of the tire in and stressing the bushes still further.
[/quote]
Yes matey, it is toeing in too much but no matter what i do, i can`t seem to get it to sit right. So you and Marks DTM reckon that if i change both wishbones and put load on both wheels before i tighten the bolts up, that may cure the problem?
-
it might not cure it but will be a lot better ! needs to have full geomerty checked/adjusted :y
-
Right, sounds to me like its toed in to much,
like so
/ \
l l
The tires are being scrubbed on the outside edge going forward and forcing the contact patch of the tire in and stressing the bushes still further.
[/quote]
Yes matey, it is toeing in too much but no matter what i do, i can`t seem to get it to sit right. So you and Marks DTM reckon that if i change both wishbones and put load on both wheels before i tighten the bolts up, that may cure the problem?
[/quote]
No, well it may be pulling it in i suppose. The idea of torqueing the bolts with car on the ground is to clamp the bushes in a position that is nearest their operating range. And therefor less stressed and stretched.
Imagine the wheels at their lowest position, car off the ground you, then clamp the subframe to the bush(assuming you torqued correctly) then drop the car, the bushes are then stretched as the wishbone moves up, you then drive it, break, hit a bump or whatever and the suspension is compressed still further and the wishbone raised to its fullest extent twisting the bush too far away from the position is was moulded into the arm, it wont last long under those conditions.
Trouble is the car is undriveable, maybe some diy set up will get you to a setup bay without haveing an accident one the way. Or maybe your have break down cover?
If the car is toed in that much then maybe a more experienced member can advise on adjusting the track rod ends to give a more safe wheel position.
Camber can also be adjusted useing a spirit level as described by Mark dtm on here. Im sure he'll pop in soon. Hth
-
Thanks for all your replies, its given me somethin new to go on, i`ll let you know how its gone :y
-
Did what you said, changed both wishbones for new ones, lifted the wheels to a normal ride level before tightening them, took the car out for a drive and everything was perfect so took it to get wheels aligned, now it drives like a dream again. Thanks for the info guys, you`ve been a real help :y :y :y