Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Omega man 2 on 02 February 2009, 16:18:42
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Tried to start the car again today after puting it all together and it started for about three second and then cut again.
Took out the plugs and I have a small pool of petrol on the pistons :o :o
What could ne causing this? :-? I'm getting desperate :D
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Leaking injectors?
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Had the injectors out. And all the pertol came out. So they would have been empty????
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Since during warmup the car will run a pre-set fuel map, i'd suggest fuel pressure regulator possibly? If every cylinder is flooded id guess it's unlikely for it to be injectors.
Maybe a silly question but are you getting a decent reliable spark? And when you say it runs for 3 seconds, how does it sound during that time?
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It ran for three seconds and wont start again :'(
I have a spare fuel rail along with regulator so in the shed somewhere so I'll give a go tomorrow
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STOP......we are all getting into obscure, rare and unusual faults before getting our base diags in place.
Ok, what has been done to the car and are any fault codes stored.....lets get the ground work done and recorded before we dive down blind alleys :y :y
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Ok
My engine blew so I swaped it with one that turned out to have bent conrods. So fully rebuilt with new rods, rings and everything associated. Got round to the big turn of the key yesterday and this happens.
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Marks last input spot on.
You have been trying to start and it won`t you have flooded it trouble with modern setups on engine ecu`s is the excess fuel {choke } in old speak you just can`t push the choke off if a modern petrol engine does`nt fire up in a couple of turns it will flood adding to the problem.
You have a ignition problem. or timing might be an idea to double check the belt timing.
And the other problem with a non start the lamda senses neat petrol [HC] and tells the ecu to cut the fuel.
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paper clip test for any fault codes, post the results, if any...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687
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Marks last input spot on.
You have been trying to start and it won`t you have flooded it trouble with modern setups on engine ecu`s is the excess fuel {choke } in old speak you just can`t push the choke off if a modern petrol engine does`nt fire up in a couple of turns it will flood adding to the problem.
You have a ignition problem. or timing might be an idea to double check the belt timing.
And the other problem with a non start the lamda senses neat petrol [HC] and tells the ecu to cut the fuel.
Ok, lets correct a few of these misconseptions whilst we are here:
1) It is possible to stop fuel being injected on an EFi setup....if you floor the throttle during cranking the injectors will not be fired which allows the flooded pots to be vented
2) The lambdas will do bugger all as they do not operate until they are hot.....warm-up cycle effectively operates open loop to preset values.
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Ok, as for the issue.
Simple things first.
1) Any fault codes?
2) Are the plug leads connected correctly.
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Ok, just papercliped it and got
0335 crank sensor (brand new) :-? :-?
0110 Intake air temp sensor
1230 Havent got that code ????
The plug leads are in the right order :-?
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Ok, just papercliped it and got
0335 crank sensor (brand new) :-? :-?
0110 Intake air temp sensor
1230 Havent got that code ????
The plug leads are in the right order :-?
Sure it`s not 0230-----fuel pump relay voltage :question
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Ok, just papercliped it and got
0335 crank sensor (brand new) :-? :-?
0110 Intake air temp sensor
1230 Havent got that code ????
The plug leads are in the right order :-?
Sure it`s not 0230-----fuel pump relay voltage :question
Yep defo 1230 :(
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1230 is engine control relay voltage low
according to my bro in law computer
hth
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So, cam and crank timing is correct?
Was the crank position sensor disturbed during the re-build?
0335 Incorrect RPM signal.....
0110 Intake air temp sensor
1230 Power supply relay secondary circuit voltage low.
The latter relates to a fault relating the supply associated with pin 35 of the ECU and is related to the main relay (K114)
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So, cam and crank timing is correct?
Was the crank position sensor disturbed during the re-build?
0335 Incorrect RPM signal.....
0110 Intake air temp sensor
1230 Power supply relay secondary circuit voltage low.
The latter relates to a fault relating the supply associated with pin 35 of the ECU and is related to the main relay (K114)
Replaced the crank sensor. But is there two sensors on the crankshaft?
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So, cam and crank timing is correct?
Was the crank position sensor disturbed during the re-build?
0335 Incorrect RPM signal.....
0110 Intake air temp sensor
1230 Power supply relay secondary circuit voltage low.
The latter relates to a fault relating the supply associated with pin 35 of the ECU and is related to the main relay (K114)
Right, had a cuppa and braved the snow to have a peak around the ecu and found a single disconnected wire that went on the positive battery terminal. Turned it over and wasn't stopping suddenly anymore, with faint signs of life.
Papercliped and got the same three codes >:(
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Right....crank it over for a few seconds with the thotte floored.
Leave it 5 mins
Then try starting as normal
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I'll give that a go but it will have to wait till the moring as the battery has gone flat :-/
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So, cam and crank timing is correct?
Was the crank position sensor disturbed during the re-build?
0335 Incorrect RPM signal.....
0110 Intake air temp sensor
1230 Power supply relay secondary circuit voltage low.
The latter relates to a fault relating the supply associated with pin 35 of the ECU and is related to the main relay (K114)
Replaced the crank sensor. But is there two sensors on the crankshaft?
1 sensor, is it genuine vx sensor or pattern crap?
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So, cam and crank timing is correct?
Was the crank position sensor disturbed during the re-build?
0335 Incorrect RPM signal.....
0110 Intake air temp sensor
1230 Power supply relay secondary circuit voltage low.
The latter relates to a fault relating the supply associated with pin 35 of the ECU and is related to the main relay (K114)
Replaced the crank sensor. But is there two sensors on the crankshaft?
1 sensor, is it genuine vx sensor or pattern crap?
Genuine opel at a cost of 45 euro :-/
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Ok, did as instructed.
Turned engine while floored, waited and then tried again started for 2 seconds and then stoped suddenly.
Wont start again now. :'(
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Is the ECU light flashing?
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It isn't flashing. So can't be the imobiliser. :-/ Removed the plugs and covered in soot :-/
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crank sensor again then maybe?
Was it routed away from the exhaust/plugged in securely/damaged when fitted by any chance?