Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: psnimv6 on 10 April 2009, 11:49:30
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do you have to wind back the rear piston on omega pad change? if not i need a brake caliper because mine won,t budge >:(
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Did mine yesterday. Spent 2 hours effing etc.Then got told to.......
Take caliper off. Bit frightened at first that lwould oose brake fluid, but got told there was a non-return valve. Undid brake pipe union nut, just a dribble. Took caliper off, let fluid in caliper drain and presto, piston went back nice.
Re-connected, pads in gentle pressure on brake pedal to push fluid back through system. JOB DONE.
It worked for me!!!!!!! :y
Wonder if the more experienced guys on the oof would ok this tho :-?
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have you tried taking the top of the brake fluid bottle or slacking the bleed nipple of a bit to let the presure of a bit :y
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I did those, helped on the near side but when doing off side, :'(that why I continued effing for 2 hours.
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if it was swinging to one side abit when braking then it could be sticking up abit.
are the pads wearing even or is there more meat on the stuck side ?
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Did mine yesterday. Spent 2 hours effing etc.Then got told to.......
Take caliper off. Bit frightened at first that lwould oose brake fluid, but got told there was a non-return valve. Undid brake pipe union nut, just a dribble. Took caliper off, let fluid in caliper drain and presto, piston went back nice.
Re-connected, pads in gentle pressure on brake pedal to push fluid back through system. JOB DONE.
It worked for me!!!!!!! :y
Wonder if the more experienced guys on the oof would ok this tho :-?
thanks for that but one piston pushs in easily but the other won,t budge and the pad on that side was as new so must be sezied :-[
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if one wont move then drop the caliper off, spray a bit of gear down the edge of the rubber, leave for a while then put in an old pad & "G" clamp it in,take clamp off then push the pedal a couple of times with old pads in to stop pistons popping out then repeat the clamp step a couple of times, it should free off o,k eventually :y
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Did mine yesterday. Spent 2 hours effing etc.Then got told to.......
Take caliper off. Bit frightened at first that lwould oose brake fluid, but got told there was a non-return valve. Undid brake pipe union nut, just a dribble. Took caliper off, let fluid in caliper drain and presto, piston went back nice.
Re-connected, pads in gentle pressure on brake pedal to push fluid back through system. JOB DONE.
It worked for me!!!!!!! :y
Wonder if the more experienced guys on the oof would ok this tho :-?
You make it sound as though you didn't bleed them. That would be highly inadvisable.
You have let a considerable quantity of air in which will seriously limit the braking effort on that wheel. If it migrates to other wheels you will be left with very little braking all round.
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The correct way is to clamp the flexible hose as close to the caliper as possible, then slacken the bleed nipple. Next, gently lever the pad so that the caliper piston retracts fully. Change the pads and tighten the nipple. Remove the clamp, and bleed immediately.
This method ensures that the master cylinder seals do not become inverted.
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Bleeding the brakes is the next job, i'm a stickler for good brakes. Only had to drive few metres (yards) into the garage. Car is off the road at the moment. Doing service parts for the summer (hols). :y
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I got one of these http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht268-disc-brake-piston-spreader Use it loads, really useful!