Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: stuvaux on 27 October 2006, 22:57:43
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has anyone got any suggestions for tuning a 2.5V6?
i have lpg fitted, so fuel related mods are not much good
also, i have limited funds at the moment, so the cheaper the better ideally!!!
thanks, stu 8-)
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Full detailed service is the first step, 3lt cams the second step as they should give you 20ishbhp extra.
Mtek performance chip is highly recomended on this site.
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What are these things I hear about mtk performance chips? i was always under the impression that they are bad for the car?
Anyway I have heard a lot of good things about having fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested. for as low as 12USD per injector, they will be tested, cleaned and then tested again. Its def a good place to start. Ive been interested in cams for my 3.0 but my issue is the fact that the engine already produces high rpm horse power , I want more lower end tq wille not loosing any of that HP in the higher ranges. If anyone knows of a good cam for this pls let me know.
Get a shop to polish/terbulance ur intake and then the same to exhaust. Bore if you can.
If you got the bux why not get your whole head flowed. any most bang for buck things are usualy cams and chips.
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3.0 Cams, Decatted Exhaust, Remap (e.g Courtney Sport), Decent Induction setup, 4 bar fpr, lightened flywheel and a well serviced/maintained engine ;)
Also the 2.5 is only good for about 205bhp max on standard internals iirc
Expect to achieve about 200bhp on the above mentioned mods
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3.0 cams.....and a dam good service.
The V6 engine bottom end is good to very high levels of bhp (note, the 2.5 and 3.0 are pretty much the same with just a different stroke and bore) and teh ehads aer pretty free flowing. The 3.0 gets sodium exhaust valves which in theory helps with heat removal but, at higher bhp (250ish) the unit struggles with cooling problems around the heads. I suspect this can be overcome by replacing the water to oil heat exchanger with an air one and modifying the coolany feed so it enters the centre of the plate rather then the back of the block.
The you you should be able to turbo/supercharge.
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Best improvement that can often be made is a really good servcing schedule.
Very regular oil and filter changes.
Check/replace spark plugs.
Make sure your crankcase breather system is completely clean!
Fit a set of 3.0 cams (£100). This is by far the single best upgrade you can do.
Fir an Mtekperformance chip (£140ish) and you will have around 200bhp (and a healthier bank balance!).
Don't get me started on people like Courtney!...
Decent induction setup is pretty much pointless unless you want the extra noise. No performance benefit.
Fpr. May help a little, but not worth the cost.
Lightened flywheel? It's dual mass for a reason so you lose smoothness (and significant contents of your wallet!) in transmission of power for a more free revving engine.
Decatted exhaust... sorry I think that is a waste of money. The restrictions are the manifolds, not the cats.
As for the remap... just go with the Mtek chip.
Ultimately though, if you want performance, go get a turbo charged car. The Omega is a smooth cruiser, and at that, it excels! :)
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Best improvement that can often be made is a really good servcing schedule.
Very regular oil and filter changes.
Check/replace spark plugs.
Make sure your crankcase breather system is completely clean!
Fit a set of 3.0 cams (£100). This is by far the single best upgrade you can do.
Fir an Mtekperformance chip (£140ish) and you will have around 200bhp (and a healthier bank balance!).
Don't get me started on people like Courtney!...
Decent induction setup is pretty much pointless unless you want the extra noise. No performance benefit.
Fpr. May help a little, but not worth the cost.
Lightened flywheel? It's dual mass for a reason so you lose smoothness (and significant contents of your wallet!) in transmission of power for a more free revving engine.
Decatted exhaust... sorry I think that is a waste of money. The restrictions are the manifolds, not the cats.
As for the remap... just go with the Mtek chip.
Ultimately though, if you want performance, go get a turbo charged car. The Omega is a smooth cruiser, and at that, it excels! :)
Thanks for the dig at my post...
Induction plays a massive part. Standard vectra v6 made standard figures with k&n fitted, rig up a good cold air feed to that and it made 12bhp more - proven by back to back runs on the dyno.
CAT is more restrictive than a straight piece of pipe - end of discussion on that one.
More free revving engine is important for better acceleration, tbh who cares about fuel consumption on these cars? You'd own a diesel if you're that bothered.
FPR is £50 hardly expensive, well worth it if you've fitted 3.0 cams and chip/remap imo
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Everyone has their own opinions. Induction gains vary from car to car even with the same engine, 12hp is not unusual if the original is a restriction. However, also easier to lose hp than gain with an induction kit. Manufacturers' claims are useless.
Cat restriction again depends on car. Clogged cats are always a problem, however standard cats often aren't a huge loss on non-turbo cars. I think it is always better to leave the cats in if you can. Can have unintended consequences with the exhaust note/booming.
FPR can give small a benefit to fuel economy, due to better atomisation, and support gains from cams, etc. Best if chip/remap is set for new FPR. Will throw off trip computer.
A big car like an Omega isn't going to see the same benefit from a lightened flywheel as a lighter car. It also degrades the comfort, especially if replacing dual-mass, which is what an Omega is more about anyway.
In short, the only sure route is to listen to people that have done things to the same car you have, and hopefully have RR results to prove it.
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Everyone has their own opinions. Induction gains vary from car to car even with the same engine, 12hp is not unusual if the original is a restriction. However, also easier to lose hp than gain with an induction kit. Manufacturers' claims are useless.
Cat restriction again depends on car. Clogged cats are always a problem, however standard cats often aren't a huge loss on non-turbo cars. I think it is always better to leave the cats in if you can. Can have unintended consequences with the exhaust note/booming.
FPR can give small a benefit to fuel economy, due to better atomisation, and support gains from cams, etc. Best if chip/remap is set for new FPR. Will throw off trip computer.
A big car like an Omega isn't going to see the same benefit from a lightened flywheel as a lighter car. It also degrades the comfort, especially if replacing dual-mass, which is what an Omega is more about anyway.
In short, the only sure route is to listen to people that have done things to the same car you have, and hopefully have RR results to prove it.
Yes all good, can't beat a good sounding exhaust note!
My drilled airbox sounds great too, nothing better than hammering up behind someone and booming past them on the open road :)
Sorry for my opinions as they're clearly off the 'norm' for this site, but I am 23, have owned tuned astra GSi's and GTE's before this, and have bought the omega as a fast family car (as I have a 2year old son), so when I'm in it on my own speed is of the upmost importance. Until I have 200bhp I won't be happy with it, as it's horrendously slow at the moment. Any gains I can get, however small are important to me.
It will also be visiting the 1/4 mile strip and track days in the future so acceleration is also very important to me.
LSD will be fitted soon too.
I'm not a 50+ year old who needs a comfortable and quiet cruiser.
And fuel consumption is not important to me at all.
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Thanks for the dig at my post...
Induction plays a massive part. Standard vectra v6 made standard figures with k&n fitted, rig up a good cold air feed to that and it made 12bhp more - proven by back to back runs on the dyno.
CAT is more restrictive than a straight piece of pipe - end of discussion on that one.
More free revving engine is important for better acceleration, tbh who cares about fuel consumption on these cars? You'd own a diesel if you're that bothered.
FPR is £50 hardly expensive, well worth it if you've fitted 3.0 cams and chip/remap imo
The Omega already has a very good cold air feed from just behind the grill, a panel filter may make a bit of difference but, in reality the standard filters have a massive surface area and will give just as good a performance as most panel filters.
The cats is a tough one and you need to get your head around valve overlap etc to fully understand why some engines do benefit from some back pressure. The big erea of concern on the Omega is the exhaust manifolds, they are not good.
A lightened flyhweel will not add extra horse power, it might allow the engine to rev a bit easier but thats it adn given that you need to drop the box off and fit a totaly different flywheel and clutch setup. If this is realy of interest then fit a lightened pulley first as its much easier and can be sourced cheaply by getting one form a 2.6/3.2 (much less than a ton new) as these are pressed steel.
A FPR might help but, reality is that if your getting to the point where you need one then your injectors are to small.
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Everyone has their own opinions. Induction gains vary from car to car even with the same engine, 12hp is not unusual if the original is a restriction. However, also easier to lose hp than gain with an induction kit. Manufacturers' claims are useless.
Cat restriction again depends on car. Clogged cats are always a problem, however standard cats often aren't a huge loss on non-turbo cars. I think it is always better to leave the cats in if you can. Can have unintended consequences with the exhaust note/booming.
FPR can give small a benefit to fuel economy, due to better atomisation, and support gains from cams, etc. Best if chip/remap is set for new FPR. Will throw off trip computer.
A big car like an Omega isn't going to see the same benefit from a lightened flywheel as a lighter car. It also degrades the comfort, especially if replacing dual-mass, which is what an Omega is more about anyway.
In short, the only sure route is to listen to people that have done things to the same car you have, and hopefully have RR results to prove it.
Yes all good, can't beat a good sounding exhaust note!
My drilled airbox sounds great too, nothing better than hammering up behind someone and booming past them on the open road :)
Sorry for my opinions as they're clearly off the 'norm' for this site, but I am 23, have owned tuned astra GSi's and GTE's before this, and have bought the omega as a fast family car (as I have a 2year old son), so when I'm in it on my own speed is of the upmost importance. Until I have 200bhp I won't be happy with it, as it's horrendously slow at the moment. Any gains I can get, however small are important to me.
It will also be visiting the 1/4 mile strip and track days in the future so acceleration is also very important to me.
LSD will be fitted soon too.
I'm not a 50+ year old who needs a comfortable and quiet cruiser.
And fuel consumption is not important to me at all.
No offence intended and please continue to express your opinions. Debate is alsways good. :)
I am a little perplexed on your choice of car. If you want impressive performance, why have you bought a 2.5 Omega?
It is a very good car and does the job it is designed for very well.
Alas, the Omega (maybe with the exception of a manual MV6) is not designed to be a really fast accelerating car.
If you want that, you really want a turbo charged car, which is also easier and cheaper to tune (as I am sure you well know).
Honestly, the best improvements will come with the 3.0 cams and an Mtek chip. These 2 will cost you around £250 and take it up to around 200bhp.
After that it really does get expensive for only small gains I am afraid.
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If you want a fast accelerating car you want a big V8....Turbos realy are a tuning compromise not an out the box choice for fast acceleration as they dont deliver flat torque delivery.
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Got to agree there.... especially if it happens to be called Monaro! :D
However big V8s are thin on the ground and generally bl**dy expensive.
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Turbo's are unreliable - not interested in a tuned c20let, even with it on Ph2 or Ph3.5 as the engine is basically a turbo'd XE - which is a pants engine.
And what family car are we talking that's turbo'd and fast? Old Cav-T lol?
As I said I wanted a 'fast' and reliable family car, ok so an MV6 was at the top of my list but cash at the time and the fact that this bargain popped up I settled for a 2.5 one.
Already listed the mods I will do, alternatively I will sell this and buy an MV6 manual, as the lack of lsd and outright power on mine is very disappointing :(
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To be honest, the Omega is well enough balanced so that the LSD does very litle unless its mega slippy...
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I've run a modified turbo sedan to well over 200K, including track time. The turbo at least was reliable. ;) The question is your price range. For the price of a cheap Omega, you are not going to get a reliable turbo sedan. They can be death by a thousand paper cuts more than even a bad Omega. All of the rubber hoses go brittle due to the higher engine bay temps, manifolds crack, exhaust studs go, and on and on. However, there are several options; Sierra, Audi, Volvo, etc.
You can quickly get to the point where it is cheaper and more enjoyable to have two cheap cars instead of one highly modified one. Do a few things to the Omega, then have another project car more for your individual enjoyment. Trying to run one highly modified jack-of-all-trades can be very expensive and frustrating. By the end, I realised that it was cheaper to buy a fancy and fast new car!
On the subject of drilled airboxes, they are the opposite of a cold air intake and usually reduce real world power. They can give false improvements on the RR if you have the bonnet up or have the fan pointed directly at them.
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I would say, do the cheap mods listed (i.e. cams) and see what you think....if its not enough get a small block chevy and drop it in.........
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To be honest, the Omega is well enough balanced so that the LSD does very litle unless its mega slippy...
And that's when I wouldn't want one! I don't miss it.
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TBH I think my wifes 1.6 Festa is quicker off the line than my 2.5 at the mo. :-[
However I intend to fit 3.0 cams, probably will go for a FSE reg (had them on my 2.9 4x4 sierra and on 1.9 205GTi and found them to be worthwhile) and got plans to decat the exhaust. Its got an almost new exhaust system on it but the powerflow agent's in Bromley are excellent. I will get them to fabricate some decat pipes. One problem I have at the moment is the full length heat shields on the downpipes..they are starting to rattle and annoy me...looks like I'll ask the powerflow people to blob a weld or two on the fix them up,
Then go for the chip..I'm hoping for just the other side of 200 brake :)
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has anyone got any suggestions for tuning a 2.5V6?
i have lpg fitted, so fuel related mods are not much good
also, i have limited funds at the moment, so the cheaper the better ideally!!!
thanks, stu 8-)
Why Bother?
If you want a fast car buy a fast car!.
You could spend a fortune on an Omega and it will never be a GENUINELY fast car.
If you have a limited Budget and want speed buy a Saab 9000 Aero. SERIOUSLY quick even as standard!
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has anyone got any suggestions for tuning a 2.5V6?
i have lpg fitted, so fuel related mods are not much good
also, i have limited funds at the moment, so the cheaper the better ideally!!!
thanks, stu 8-)
Why Bother?
If you want a fast car buy a fast car!.
You could spend a fortune on an Omega and it will never be a GENUINELY fast car.
If you have a limited Budget and want speed buy a Saab 9000 Aero. SERIOUSLY quick even as standard!
Yes but, lacks the handling and ability to put the power down!
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Shoot me down in flames if I'm wrong, but isn't the Saab based on a Vectra floorpan and mechanicals?
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Shoot me down in flames if I'm wrong, but isn't the Saab based on a Vectra floorpan and mechanicals?
I think that's only the 9-3. The old 9000 only had a few GM bits, like the auto tranny where the o/d would eat through the end of the casing and come out the n/s wheel well. :-?
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Shoot me down in flames if I'm wrong, but isn't the Saab based on a Vectra floorpan and mechanicals?
Yes your WRONG as far as the 9000 goes
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has anyone got any suggestions for tuning a 2.5V6?
i
Why Bother?
If you want a fast car buy a fast car!.
You could spend a fortune on an Omega and it will never be a GENUINELY fast car.
If you have a limited Budget and want speed buy a Saab 9000 Aero. SERIOUSLY quick even as standard!
Yes but, lacks the handling and ability to put the power down!
Mark i have had three 9000 Aero's over a long period of time and 22 years on Police Traffic so know all about the best that Vauxhall has to offer. I doubt if many people on here have been as fast in an Omega, other than those currently on, or ex Traffic.
Believe me a standard 2.3 Full Pressure Turbo Saab 9000 , NEVER MIND an Aero will totally outrun ANY STANDARD Omega across country on any road.
I base these comments on on personal experience. What do you base yours on?
PS . You might ask, why did i change to an Omega Estate from the Saab ? They cannot be beaten for value for money, comfort and load carrying. Love mine to bits.
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Having driven both at speed around the twisty bits, I couldn't even hope to get a 9000 or even the Aero through the bends as well as the Omega in sports trim, the 9000 might have more bhp but, the chassis flex can be felt and the under steer is very difficult to hide despite the Aero suspension which only holds on until the last minute before letting go very quickly.
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One mans meat, another mans Poison.
Cannot help but totally disagree as to which is the better FAST road car for everyday use.
As Laidback said, the Omega is superb at what it was designed for a lazy, comfortable mile muncher. Fast A to B car on normal roads, NO give me the Saab anyday.
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One mans meat, another mans Poison.
Cannot help but totally disagree as to which is the better FAST road car for everyday use.
As Laidback said, the Omega is superb at what it was designed for a lazy, comfortable mile muncher. Fast A to B car on normal roads, NO give me the Saab anyday.
It depends on the driver, what type of car you are comfortable hustling, cornering style, whether you know the roads well, and how much you really push cars. For instance AWD is rarely the 'fastest' in a pure sense, but it is usually very forgiving and can allow a medium talent driver to do a good turn of speed on unfamiliar roads.
The Omega can really hustle on the twisties if you give the suspension enough time to take a set and you are smooth. Me, I'm not comfortable pushing cars that are not a little forgiving on open roads. You never know what you might come across in the middle of the turn. Even then I don't push them to where I'm in trouble if I come across a bicyclist or something. It's just not worth the risk.
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Since you have LPG scrap the FSE vavle idea and also find your highest octane petrol you can find locally and when you get it chipped state you will never go under 98 99 97 or whatever.
Consider upping compression ratio.
Gas doesn't detonate like petrol so some tuning tricks can work well (search the internet) and some LPG adapted engines hate petrol, my car now runs better on LPG.
Unfortunately 2.6 can't be chipped
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Well this is generating some healthy debate... but let's please keep it friendly guys! :)
Darryl, I am afraid I have to agree with Mark right now.
I recently got a (very nice) 2.3 CS Carlsson. :D
DAMN it is seriously quick! :o
In a straight line the acceleration (once out of first!) is immense. For overtaking this car is awesome.
Alas, round twisties a manual MV6 will out handle it easily. I am in the fortunate position of having both outside to directly compare.
However, in a few months, once I have replaced all the shocks and springs and uprated the ARB bushes it may be rather different! ;)
It has to be said though, the Aero has the best seats in a car I have ever come across. :)
rhydv6. No turbocharged cars are not unreliable at all.
It is down to the engine design (was it designed with turbocharging in mind, or bolted on later in production) and proper maintenance.
Saab for instance, have been making turbocharged cars for a long time and the engines are generally very reliable if you maintain them properly. The mileage they attain is testament to that fact.
Actually with Saabs, turbo problems are well down the list of things to go wrong...
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Well this is generating some healthy debate... but let's please keep it friendly guys! :)
Darryl, I am afraid I have to agree with Mark right now.
I recently got a (very nice) 2.3 CS Carlsson. :D
DAMN it is seriously quick! :o
In a straight line the acceleration (once out of first!) is immense. For overtaking this car is awesome.
Alas, round twisties a manual MV6 will out handle it easily. I am in the fortunate position of having both outside to directly compare.
However, in a few months, once I have replaced all the shocks and springs and uprated the ARB bushes it may be rather different! ;)
It has to be said though, the Aero has the best seats in a car I have ever come across. :)
rhydv6. No turbocharged cars are not unreliable at all.
It is down to the engine design (was it designed with turbocharging in mind, or bolted on later in production) and proper maintenance.
Saab for instance, have been making turbocharged cars for a long time and the engines are generally very reliable if you maintain them properly. The mileage they attain is testament to that fact.
Actually with Saabs, turbo problems are well down the list of things to go wrong...
Allow me to add up to your turbo reliability valid comment a few things for general education. A turbocharger is only prone to failure at high altitudes where the impeller speed exceeds its limitations due to low air density, it is prone to damage when the air filter is not filtering well, and finally if you don't let it cool down after a long drive, carbon formation can damage the bearings. So if you prevent these things from happening there is no reason why the turbocharger should not outlast the car itself.
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just thought id throw my input your way guys. have been told that it is possible to turbo a VX V6 :-? using a saab turbo manifold??? i can understand if its from the saab with similar mechanicals to the veccy but surely it would cause premature wear to various engine parts or gaskets :-/
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Well this is generating some healthy debate... but let's please keep it friendly guys! :)
Darryl, I am afraid I have to agree with Mark right now.
I recently got a (very nice) 2.3 CS Carlsson. :D
DAMN it is seriously quick! :o
In a straight line the acceleration (once out of first!) is immense. For overtaking this car is awesome.
Alas, round twisties a manual MV6 will out handle it easily. I am in the fortunate position of having both outside to directly compare.
However, in a few months, once I have replaced all the shocks and springs and uprated the ARB bushes it may be rather different! ;)
Dave,
like i said i was driving virtually new Omegas in Police spec daily without the constraints of the normal motorist and had plenty of opportunity to asses their OVERALL ability over thousands of miles.
My last Aero had covered 156k and was still an absolute missile. Owing to the mileage i treated it to a complete set of new standard shocks and springs as well as all bushes replaced. That made a MASSIVE difference!
If i had to cover a distance in a hurry ( including bends ) then for me the Saab would come out on top.
The model that you have bought is probably even more brutal in its power delivery than an Aero ;D
Wait until you sort the suspension :D
Lastly all i am saying is that you could throw a lot of money at an Omega and it will still not be a really quick car. An Aero can be picked up cheaply now and is quick straight out of the box.
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Name a Ph3.5 C20LET thats reliable? Hell even the Ph2 one's can be dodgy if not correctly set up and engine internals of the correct spec.. I've seen enough of them to know, also CAV-T 4x4 system is terrible, with TB's breaking etc..
I'm talking vauxhall's here, not interested in any other cars, so no point mentioning your TDi runabouts lol
Ok z20let isn't a bad setup (as found in Astra G GSi, Zafira GSi etc), but one of these out of price range.
I've always been a fan of N/A Applications.
No LSD = no good for drifting, so will be awful on a track...
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Yes, the C20LET was not good from what I have heard (I suspect Mark may disagree), but that is a case of "design a good engine then bolt on a turbo later" :-/
Restricting yourself to just Vauxhalls does reduce the options somewhat.
You ever considered a manual 24v Carlton GSi or Senator?
Damn quick, cheap (well the Senator is), fitted with LSD as standard and makes a fun track day car. :)
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Speaking of fast saloons, there is only one car that humiliated my omega, it is the 164 2.0v6 turbo. I still cannot understand why it pulled off like that at 120+mph.
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Allow me to add up to your turbo reliability valid comment a few things for general education. A turbocharger is only prone to failure at high altitudes where the impeller speed exceeds its limitations due to low air density, it is prone to damage when the air filter is not filtering well, and finally if you don't let it cool down after a long drive, carbon formation can damage the bearings. So if you prevent these things from happening there is no reason why the turbocharger should not outlast the car itself.
Most turbocharger control systems can handle high altitudes. I have never seen one go due to ingestesting anything on the cold side other than it's own retaining nut. More of an issue probably with construction equipment. Baking the oil can damage the bearings with high mileage, not a problem with water cooled turbos until well over 200K and then only if no after-run pump. Unless you have a ball-bearing turbo, what will kill it quickly is thrashing it when cold. Otherwise, only high EGT's are deadly, but that is a tuning issue.
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An Alfa Romeo??? :'(
Speaking of fast saloons, there is only one car that humiliated my omega, it is the 164 2.0v6 turbo. I still cannot understand why it pulled off like that at 120+mph.
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The Omega is never going to be the fastest accelerating car in the world, its simply too heavy (1.7 tonnes) with small engine (3.0/3.2l).
Without a lot of bank breaking mods, achieving more than 250bhp is unlikely. The power:weight is never going to be good without spending a fortune, so cheaper just to buy a fast car.
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I have to agree.
Though the Omega ain't very slow, all things considered.
I must confess I've spent weeks in not months looking for a Turbo for the 3.0l, and Can't find one. :'(
Though mine has the spare wheel, and boot lining removed, Alloy wing added to the boot
If anyone finds a Turbo mod for the 3.0l I'd be VERY intereasted.
I'm going for handling mods, unless a Turbo, or supercharger mod comes along.
I did have a "brainwave", could one convert a Turbo charger to mechniclly run from the alternator or another ancillary unit?
Cheers.
Matt
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I have to agree.
Though the Omega ain't very slow, all things considered.
I must confess I've spent weeks in not months looking for a Turbo for the 3.0l, and Can't find one. :'(
Though mine has the spare wheel, and boot lining removed, Alloy wing added to the boot
If anyone finds a Turbo mod for the 3.0l I'd be VERY intereasted.
I'm going for handling mods, unless a Turbo, or supercharger mod comes along.
I did have a "brainwave", could one convert a Turbo charger to mechniclly run from the alternator or another ancillary unit?
Cheers.
Matt
Yeah, it's called a supercharger! :D Seriously, that's all a centrifugal supercharger is, a turbocharger cold side geared to a belt pulley. People have messed around with electrical superchargers, as in run form an electric motor instead of a belt. Don't think they got anywhere interesting.
There's always NO2 . . . .
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Spose it is, yes... ;D
Yeah seen those electric ones, and they look ok, but underneath the Marketing crap, is the science, which doesn't add up.
Be good to see if I could get one to run from a pulley...
Time to trwl EBAY for an old rusty Turbo charger I can do up.. :D
Cheers.
Matt
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Centrifugal superchargers are by far the easiest major power boost to an NA motor, other than NO2. Trust me, you don't want a hand-made installation of a turbo unless you have paid someone a ton of money and/or really know what you're doing. On the other hand, you are going to need a special ECU chip for the turbo or supercharger, and/or you will need a properly set up additional fuel controller.
A centrifugal supercharger set for 5-7psi, an additional fuel controller setup, some handmade intake plumbing, lots of octane additive, and the philosophy that it is a learning experience (in other words some very expensive stuff will expire with a loud bang!) and you could have a fun project.
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Saab tried turbocharging the V6 lump and found under anything more than very light boost there were loads of problems, not least of which being cooling to no.6 cylinder.
Strangely enough they did produce a turbo'd 3.0 V6 unit....
It pushes out...210bhp... a whole 3bhp more than standard (oh and the torque is almost identical too)!
Why they did it I really don't know! :-/
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The torque was actuly very much increase and the cooling is easy to get round it would appear.
As for converting a turbo to run off an aux pully, thats gonna take some clever work as you need to be able to spin the thing at anything upto 80-100K rpm!
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The Omega is never going to be the fastest accelerating car in the world, its simply too heavy (1.7 tonnes) with small engine (3.0/3.2l).
Without a lot of bank breaking mods, achieving more than 250bhp is unlikely. The power:weight is never going to be good without spending a fortune, so cheaper just to buy a fast car.
Got to agree with The Boy on this point. The Omega in any trim is not a lightweight pocket rocket. Any car this size with a sensible engine (not some transplanted monster) is going to be a tad slower than a modified Astra for example.
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I thought this thread is supposed to be about tuning the v6..
http://www.regal-shop.co.uk/asps/ShowDetails.asp?id=1885
I have no idea if this could work, but might be interesting to use the 3.0 throtle bodie and intake.
regal offers a 25% bigger throttle and flowed intake for 325. its supposed to add 15% torque. Im VERY intrested in this for my 3.0 since the larger throtle bodies might go perfect with a set of mild cams. Ad a chip, and the fact that im getting my fuel injectors cleaned, ngk platinum sparks (need to find new leads) and i think i should be doing quite well. there is a tune shop 50 bucks per dyno run.. i dont know if its worth it. but if i decide to get my exhaust manifold done out ill talk em into giving me a few free dyno runs....
these are my plans.
IF i could swapp my trany to a manual I would def go all out on this car. I LOVE THE WAY IT HANDLES. I just test drove an 07 impreza and VW GTI and i swear, my catera out handles them both. heck, it out handled the impreza by a long shot. I dont know why maybe its my driving style but i think the omega is very much worth tunning and we need to make a demand for the parts.
ITs sex factor alone is enough of a reason to tune them out.
If one person got a custom exhaust manifold machined it would be expensive one time, then other people could order them cheap. Maybe look around see if a shop is willing to design one and then sell a lot.
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Guys,
if anyone really wants to tune the omega i think these guys are the people to talk to. I believe that their packages are by far better than the Courtenay/Regal rubish.
http://www.imotecgmbh.com/PS-Bausatze/V6_3_0/v6_3_0.html
Get on that site it is easy to navigate even if you don't talk German.
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Both of those cars are for chucking around, which is far from an American driving style. They handle well but not great for what they are meant to do.
Making manifolds will be twice as expensive, since there are 2. I haven't seen one in person, but they don't look that bad from the pictures. They certainly won't be good a bang-for-buck mod. The cheapest route would be handmade headers, but pretty tight in there.
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Both of those cars are for chucking around, which is far from an American driving style. They handle well but not great for what they are meant to do.
The gti was heavier than the impreza. I dont know where the apeal is. I thought they were suposed to be fast. Could have fooled me. I dont know if they amercanized them or what. botom gears were def torquey, the gti didnt even want to lay out any rubber. but once you hit 3 the 6 speeds didnt seeme to matter since it semed like on the impreza there was no more to be had, gti def had a lot to say but not as much as i thought it would.
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Both the GTI and WRX need to be chipped to really be any fun, exhaust helps too. Then they are reasonably quick, enough to walk away and leave an Omega. That said, I know what you mean. Neither one has much appeal to me even modified. Certainly not in FL where there are very few roads to enjoy them on.
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Both the GTI and WRX need to be chipped to really be any fun, exhaust helps too. Then they are reasonably quick, enough to walk away and leave an Omega. That said, I know what you mean. Neither one has much appeal to me even modified. Certainly not in FL where there are very few roads to enjoy them on.
I would disagree with that, i have had an impreza chasing me he went half a car ahead untill about 100mph
then i pulled away but again mine is a manual.
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Both the GTI and WRX need to be chipped to really be any fun, exhaust helps too. Then they are reasonably quick, enough to walk away and leave an Omega. That said, I know what you mean. Neither one has much appeal to me even modified. Certainly not in FL where there are very few roads to enjoy them on.
I would disagree with that, i have had an impreza chasing me he went half a car ahead untill about 100mph
then i pulled away but again mine is a manual.
If it was a WRX, then it wasn't chipped. Differences are also less apparent above 50-60mph, and I would expect an Omega to hold its own over 100. I was more talking about back roads, but a chipped WRX or GTI can hold off an Omega light-to-light. I have had a chipped WRX, and I have driven several chipped GTI 2.0T's and 1.8T's. Without chips, they aren't fast at all. The suspension on the 1.8T is useless, even modified. The 2.0T is a much better car. On the other hand the 1.8T GTI can be modified to over 400hp at the wheels with stock internals . . .
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thanks a lot for all the advice!
so it seems the m-tek chip is well worth it then?
i'll look into the prices of some 3.0 cams as well
cheers, stu 8-)
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As a guide, 3 litre cams are about a ton.
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cheers mark!
where is the best place to get the cams from?
iv only seen them on Courtney so far for £350
also, did i hear someone on here say that you had an m-tek chip fitted to your omega?
if yes (or no!), what do you think of them
cheers, stu 8-)
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cheers mark!
where is the best place to get the cams from?
iv only seen them on Courtney so far for £350
also, did i hear someone on here say that you had an m-tek chip fitted to your omega?
if yes (or no!), what do you think of them
cheers, stu 8-)
Get cams off anyone breaking a 3.0l Omega ;)
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cheers mate
what about the m-tek chip - do you think they are worthwhile?
stu
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Carrying on with the modding theme,
I read earlier about chips etc etc.
Now coming from a GEMS ecu on a scoob, mapped on the road, to take in all the mods on the car,
If you de cat your car, cone filter rather then the airbox, 3.0 cams, 99/100 ron petrol, how does this chip work?????
If the chip was made with a standard car in mind, then the parimeters for fuelling, air intake, are upgraded so it plugs onto your ecu board and off you go.........
However if you have de catted your car, 3.0 cams, and like me you have the choice of better fuel 99 tesco/100 shell, then how does this chip read the extra mods.....or doesn't it................or when people mention chip on this forum, is it a chip that can be played with on a rolling road with a mapper??????????
Sorry for all the questions, but if you don't ask, you'll never find out,
Kevin :y
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Carrying on with the modding theme,
I read earlier about chips etc etc.
Now coming from a GEMS ecu on a scoob, mapped on the road, to take in all the mods on the car,
If you de cat your car, cone filter rather then the airbox, 3.0 cams, 99/100 ron petrol, how does this chip work?????
If the chip was made with a standard car in mind, then the parimeters for fuelling, air intake, are upgraded so it plugs onto your ecu board and off you go.........
However if you have de catted your car, 3.0 cams, and like me you have the choice of better fuel 99 tesco/100 shell, then how does this chip read the extra mods.....or doesn't it................or when people mention chip on this forum, is it a chip that can be played with on a rolling road with a mapper??????????
Sorry for all the questions, but if you don't ask, you'll never find out,
Kevin :y
Standard ECU's are pretty flexible in terms of mods, but that doesn't mean that they take full advantage. I have only heard of 'normal' chips for the Omega, which I think require super premium. They are 'off-the-shelf' install yourself jobbies. I have not heard of chips for cams, etc. You may be able to find someone who will custom map your Omega ECU, but rare as hen's teeth. Not worth it anyway, you can't get very much compared to a turbo engine.
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cheers mark!
where is the best place to get the cams from?
iv only seen them on Courtney so far for £350
also, did i hear someone on here say that you had an m-tek chip fitted to your omega?
if yes (or no!), what do you think of them
cheers, stu 8-)
I might be selling my set, i will know by sunday mate. i will let you know.
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thanks mate - if u do sell - i would be interested
cheers, stu 8-)
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3 litre cams into a 2.5,does it make a noticable difference,bought some yesterday
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3 litre cams into a 2.5,does it make a noticable difference,bought some yesterday
Just look at the first page of this thread for opinions.
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raising fuel pressure is great. however, if the fuel pressure is too high, this can affect the injector opening, which can be bad.
Turbocharged cars are reliable. crap engine (c20let) / badly looked after / asking the engine to do something it wasnt ever designed to do with out changing the parts needed and its gonna end in tears.
Plus a turbo'd car allowed 100% VE - not many N/A cars can do this.
and why would you want to drift on a track? unless you're into drifting, then its pointless, especially as most tracks dont like you doing it, and to make progress you need to be going in a straight line.
I had a 3.0 Elite Auto myself - i was going to plough £3k into it, but at the end of the day, it was never going to produce the power i wanted.
Moral to the story - want a fast car, start with a fast car in the first place.
The Omega is good at what it does. its an exec car.
Cams, Chip, decent air filter and a free flowing exhaust will add some benefits, even with the manifold restriction.
I still hold aspirations of manufacturing some tubular manifolds for one - perhaps when we get a unit / more development time we will, however, as is often the case, they wont be cheap, so not many will will sold. ::)
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i have in the past tuned a V6 2.5 although it was in a FWD form.
3.0 cams, 4 bar FPR that had been set up to reduce the flat spot, high pressure fuel pump, enlarged throttle body, XE flywheel, decatted and stainless exhaust system, chipped ECU.
Last time it ran i was pushing out 202bhp, it has now run 4 runs and 200bhp is the average, well 199.7bhp, but for the time and money invested it was money well spent.
Torque was up as well.
Yes i know that is 3.0 terratory and i could have got there by lobbing in a 3.0, but that's not where the fun was
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i like the look of your estate, like the wheels, had a set of those on my old vectra.
:y :y