Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Turk on 13 May 2009, 20:06:16
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I have a strange juddering (similar to being in the wrong gear) between 1,500 rpm and 2,000rpm. It's always been there very slightly but after chipping the ecu it is now much more noticable.
I have done the "Diesel Magic in the filter" trick and checked all pipework. All is in order.
I'm thinking it's an injector issue, in particular the sensor injector.
When I raise the revs slowly and hold between 1,500 and 2.000rpm, the MPG display changes from the current average mileage and just shows the letter "F" on the L/H side where the MPG was showing. This only happens when holding the revs in that range. Fine below and above and the "F" does not appear when driving.
The car revs freely with no glitch and the only indication there is an issue is the juddering in the previously mentioned range when driving.
EML not on.
I have a spare sensor injector on my Elite, but to get this off I need a narrow 27mm deep socket (not an Impact socket, they are to chunky to get down into the injector).
I don't want to grind down a 27mm impact socket to fit if it is not an injector issue anyway.
Any ideas whether I'm on the right track with thinking it may be an
injector issue ?
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If it was an electric issue with that needle lift sensor, I would suspect a fault code stored...
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Is the 2.5 tractor (f/lift '00) paperclippable for this ?
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Is the 2.5 tractor (f/lift '00) paperclippable for this ?
some are, some ain't...
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is it a juddering you can feel through the car when accelerating> if so check very carefully the following,
rubber donuts either end of the prop
prop centre bearing rubber
gearbox mounting rubber has not parted company with it metal plate
as you see i suspect its not engine related but the rev range you have indicated is just where the turbo starts producing torque,if it was an injector issue you would indeed have a fault code clue is its aways !!!been there!! but your now making around 350torques as opposed to vxhalls 250!!!
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Does not happen under acceleration. Juddering only occurs between 1,500 and 2,000 whilst driving. Feels like a learner driver has shifted into 5th instead of 3rd gear.
What is this "F" that appears in the Average Mileage display when I hold the revs between 1,500 and 2,000 ? (at a standstill only, no "F" appears when driving)
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Hmm, am thinking on this one then!!! :o
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Just driven back from my sisters and took note of the juddering issue. It judders between 1500rpm and 2000rpm, where it subside and is gone by 2300rpm.
No "F" showing when driving and revs held in the juddering range, but it appears when revs are between the problem points, out of gear at a standstill.
Doubt it's a transmission issue caused by the increase in power as it is even more prominent when decellerating.
Disengaging the clutch does not stop it instantly, only stops when the revs drop (or rise) out of the judderig range.
This judder was there before chipping but nowhere near as prominent, in fact it wasn't even an issue, just slightly noticable.
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Paper clip test gives:
64: Fuel Quantity Control out of range
96: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve out of range
er, right...ok :-?
1) What do these mean ?
2) How do I fix them ?
3) Would either of these cause the juddering issue ?
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got a similar thing with mine, when i get a chance im going to check the g/box rubber mount as ive noticed the selector lever tends to move around a little when mine does it, which i think tells me the box is not as tight on its mount as it should be, mine started doing it after my 2nd g/box change & i left the mount on it it came with. >:(
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Paper clip test gives:
64: Fuel Quantity Control out of range
96: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve out of range
er, right...ok :-?
1) What do these mean ?
2) How do I fix them ?
3) Would either of these cause the juddering issue ?
1) The car's breaked!
2) You can't!
3) Possibly!
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Paper clip test gives:
64: Fuel Quantity Control out of range
96: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve out of range
er, right...ok :-?
1) What do these mean ?
2) How do I fix them ?
3) Would either of these cause the juddering issue ?
1) The car's breaked!
2) You can't!
3) Possibly!
I just couldn't resist the above!
Seriously, I've posted a reply on these issues in raywilb's post 'diagnostic test' currently on page 2.
I cured the EGR fault on mine by thoroughly cleaning out the entire induction system.
The '64' in my case eventually required a new injection pump - you don't want to know the cost ...... !
A 'PM' to Omegatoy might be helpful to you though ......
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Injection pump is not too much of a problem. I have a complete 2.5td Elite that had no engine issues when last in regular use.
How much of a job is it to change ?
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Sounds like an injection pump problem especially with that fuel quantity code stored, pretty common on the 2.5 td. The pump change is not too much of a job really.
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I have the same problem at 1500rpm, and I believe MickAP is the same - both post chipping.
I have put it down to the chip (without any good evidence), but it doesn't bother me too much, the only time I really notice it is btw 50 -55 mph in top so I just avoid that combo!
Judders like a bugger if it catches me out though!
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Yep can confirm I have similar. I also put it down to the chip, pre chip no judder. Mine is a manual all I can confirm it can judder at low speed say around 35mph. Sometimes also around 45/50mph when decreasing speed, a good explanation is as above as if you've selected too higher gear when accelerating.
It doesn't bother me too much and sometimes never happens at all, but I do think the chip is the answer to the problem.
I intend to try and give everything a good clean out soon, and also change the leak off pipes, just to satisfy myself it's not anything else really.
Mick
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hmm i had this when i frst chipped mine, put it down to the extra horses from the chip, got really fed up with it as it would do it in neutral after a few months and it was the dmf out of balance!!! changed it and the judder went, mine had done 88k then,not saying yours is the dmf but it could be!!!
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Mine does the same at around the 1500 rpm mark, and also post-chipping.
Recently though, it seems to have settled down, and I've changed my driving technique to largely overcome it anyway.
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Hmmmm, I know Turk hinted his issue existed before chipping, what about you other guys?
Turk - I'd look at certainly fixing the egr bit, whether related or not, as a first port of call.
Thinking back, trying to remember if mine had any roughness, but can't remember - my RPM was normally much higher ::)
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As a test, Omegatoy advised that I blank off the EGR pipe where it enters the throttle body(easy 10 minute job). I used a section cut from a coke can and evenly tightened up the two 13mm bolts to squeeze the tin over the lip and seal off the EGR pipe.
The judder has subsided significantly, not completely, but a heck of a lot better and now only happens occasionally in the 1500rpm > 2000rpm range.
I suspect next step is to remove the inlet manifold and throttle body and give them a good clean out with something like Gunk.
I may be in luck and not have an issue with the injection pump being on its last legs.
Omegatoy advised that using coke can material will only last a hundred miles or so before it burns through and that steel plate would be better, but I think(hope) I may be able to avoid this blanking by cleaning out the inlet manifold etc.
P.S
Don't let any of these tales of judders and rumbles put off any would be chippers. Earlier I had a 20 mile M4 run with cruise set at 70, with the last 5 miles being A-roads and roundabouts. As I previously mentioned, my juddering issues are now significantly reduced with further cleaning to be done...and the Average MPG display is showing 63.2 mpg.
Ask Sethsmate, he gets good MPG and he's up and down the Maesteg Alps most of the time.
OK, so let's say the display is now 10% out after chipping. That's still giving well over 56mpg at a steady 70mph. :y
An accurate test would be to Brim it - Drive it - Brim it ....when I can afford to fill it ;D
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Hmmmm, I know Turk hinted his issue existed before chipping, what about you other guys?
Pre-chipping (about 12 months ownership in this state) I noticed no problems in the rev range whatsoever - other than it being hideously slow.
Post-chipping (about 14 months ownership in this state) I have a violent judder around 1500rpm, but most noticeable in 5th at 50-55mph. I know my N/S engine mount has 1 bolt sheared and this could compound the problem (or could have been caused by it :-?) but it is very present.
I now avoid the "dead zone" when driving to try and keep my teeth in my mouth for a few more years.
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Hmmmm, I know Turk hinted his issue existed before chipping, what about you other guys?
Pre-chipping (about 12 months ownership in this state) I noticed no problems in the rev range whatsoever - other than it being hideously slow.
Post-chipping (about 14 months ownership in this state) I have a violent judder around 1500rpm, but most noticeable in 5th at 50-55mph. I know my N/S engine mount has 1 bolt sheared and this could compound the problem (or could have been caused by it :-?) but it is very present.
I now avoid the "dead zone" when driving to try and keep my teeth in my mouth for a few more years.
Aye, same here, I avoid the this zone by hanging on to the lower gears, and letting the lump rev a little harder before changing up the 'box.
Saying that, the juddering seems to have disappeared recently. I'm wondering if it's down to using 'proper' diesel for some months now, rather than 'supermarket' juice. That's all I conclude presently, as it runs better and emissions are reduced too. Hmmmm ........
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Hmmmm, I know Turk hinted his issue existed before chipping, what about you other guys?
Turk - I'd look at certainly fixing the egr bit, whether related or not, as a first port of call.
Thinking back, trying to remember if mine had any roughness, but can't remember - my RPM was normally much higher ::)
Yes Jamie, mine had a rough-running fault when I first got it.
Fuel filter assembly completely overhauled after finding that the heater portion wasn't securely seated to the head. Gave it a drink of Forte and changed the filter at the same time.
Experience also dictates that the lump has to be kept revving freely and 'on song' - it doesn't like being driven in 'Miss Daisy' mode.
Gotta drive it like you stole it ...... !
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As a test, Omegatoy advised that I blank off the EGR pipe where it enters the throttle body(easy 10 minute job). I used a section cut from a coke can and evenly tightened up the two 13mm bolts to squeeze the tin over the lip and seal off the EGR pipe.
The judder has subsided significantly, not completely, but a heck of a lot better and now only happens occasionally in the 1500rpm > 2000rpm range.
I suspect next step is to remove the inlet manifold and throttle body and give them a good clean out with something like Gunk.
I may be in luck and not have an issue with the injection pump being on its last legs.
Omegatoy advised that using coke can material will only last a hundred miles or so before it burns through and that steel plate would be better, but I think(hope) I may be able to avoid this blanking by cleaning out the inlet manifold etc.
P.S
Don't let any of these tales of judders and rumbles put off any would be chippers. Earlier I had a 20 mile M4 run with cruise set at 70, with the last 5 miles being A-roads and roundabouts. As I previously mentioned, my juddering issues are now significantly reduced with further cleaning to be done...and the Average MPG display is showing 63.2 mpg.
Ask Sethsmate, he gets good MPG and he's up and down the Maesteg Alps most of the time.
OK, so let's say the display is now 10% out after chipping. That's still giving well over 56mpg at a steady 70mph. :y
An accurate test would be to Brim it - Drive it - Brim it ....when I can afford to fill it ;D
Yes Turk, dear fella ......
Mine undoubtedly gets quite a hard life with the terrain here in the Valleys. The area's an excellent 'tractor proving-ground' and as you rightly state, the only accurate method of calculating fuel consumption gives 33 mpg. Sure, I'd like it even better, but lets be realistic - it's a leviathon, just over a decade old, and with close on 150k miles under it's belt.
I'm quite happy, taking all this into account.
Important point: Mrs Sethsmate loves it .... !
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sounds like the EGR might have something to do with it then, when i got my tractor it had been blanked off, ive since fitted the pipe on it as it should be & mine has the judders but i never put it down to that as i replaced g/box & chip at around the same time, when the weather starts behaving i`ll blank it off again & see if it makes a difference :-/
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As a test, Omegatoy advised that I blank off the EGR pipe where it enters the throttle body(easy 10 minute job). I used a section cut from a coke can and evenly tightened up the two 13mm bolts to squeeze the tin over the lip and seal off the EGR pipe.
The judder has subsided significantly, not completely, but a heck of a lot better and now only happens occasionally in the 1500rpm > 2000rpm range.
I suspect next step is to remove the inlet manifold and throttle body and give them a good clean out with something like Gunk.
I may be in luck and not have an issue with the injection pump being on its last legs.
Omegatoy advised that using coke can material will only last a hundred miles or so before it burns through and that steel plate would be better, but I think(hope) I may be able to avoid this blanking by cleaning out the inlet manifold etc.
P.S
Don't let any of these tales of judders and rumbles put off any would be chippers. Earlier I had a 20 mile M4 run with cruise set at 70, with the last 5 miles being A-roads and roundabouts. As I previously mentioned, my juddering issues are now significantly reduced with further cleaning to be done...and the Average MPG display is showing 63.2 mpg.
Ask Sethsmate, he gets good MPG and he's up and down the Maesteg Alps most of the time.
OK, so let's say the display is now 10% out after chipping. That's still giving well over 56mpg at a steady 70mph. :y
An accurate test would be to Brim it - Drive it - Brim it ....when I can afford to fill it ;D
Diesels do need lots of EGR for economy, so I'd be inclined to clean the egr (paint stripper).
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Hmmmm, I know Turk hinted his issue existed before chipping, what about you other guys?
Pre-chipping (about 12 months ownership in this state) I noticed no problems in the rev range whatsoever - other than it being hideously slow.
Post-chipping (about 14 months ownership in this state) I have a violent judder around 1500rpm, but most noticeable in 5th at 50-55mph. I know my N/S engine mount has 1 bolt sheared and this could compound the problem (or could have been caused by it :-?) but it is very present.
I now avoid the "dead zone" when driving to try and keep my teeth in my mouth for a few more years.
My commute in was a horrible 40-50mph all the way, but my auto didn't like that speed (constant 3rd/4th changing) so mine was always locked in 3rd until I hit dual carriageway...
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As a test, Omegatoy advised that I blank off the EGR pipe where it enters the throttle body(easy 10 minute job). I used a section cut from a coke can and evenly tightened up the two 13mm bolts to squeeze the tin over the lip and seal off the EGR pipe.
The judder has subsided significantly, not completely, but a heck of a lot better and now only happens occasionally in the 1500rpm > 2000rpm range.
I suspect next step is to remove the inlet manifold and throttle body and give them a good clean out with something like Gunk.
I may be in luck and not have an issue with the injection pump being on its last legs.
Omegatoy advised that using coke can material will only last a hundred miles or so before it burns through and that steel plate would be better, but I think(hope) I may be able to avoid this blanking by cleaning out the inlet manifold etc.
P.S
Don't let any of these tales of judders and rumbles put off any would be chippers. Earlier I had a 20 mile M4 run with cruise set at 70, with the last 5 miles being A-roads and roundabouts. As I previously mentioned, my juddering issues are now significantly reduced with further cleaning to be done...and the Average MPG display is showing 63.2 mpg. Ask Sethsmate, he gets good MPG and he's up and down the Maesteg Alps most of the time.
OK, so let's say the display is now 10% out after chipping. That's still giving well over 56mpg at a steady 70mph. :y
An accurate test would be to Brim it - Drive it - Brim it ....when I can afford to fill it ;D
1) Mine said around 47mpg...............towing a 1500kg caravan! real figure around 28/30mpg if I'm lucky.
2) And the rest I reckon the only way to test is as said and brim it and do a manual check as mentioned.
Having said all this it's a must to get your TD chipped, wouldn't change it back.
Mick
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As a test, Omegatoy advised that I blank off the EGR pipe where it enters the throttle body(easy 10 minute job). I used a section cut from a coke can and evenly tightened up the two 13mm bolts to squeeze the tin over the lip and seal off the EGR pipe.
The judder has subsided significantly, not completely, but a heck of a lot better and now only happens occasionally in the 1500rpm > 2000rpm range.
I suspect next step is to remove the inlet manifold and throttle body and give them a good clean out with something like Gunk.
I may be in luck and not have an issue with the injection pump being on its last legs.
Omegatoy advised that using coke can material will only last a hundred miles or so before it burns through and that steel plate would be better, but I think(hope) I may be able to avoid this blanking by cleaning out the inlet manifold etc.
P.S
Don't let any of these tales of judders and rumbles put off any would be chippers. Earlier I had a 20 mile M4 run with cruise set at 70, with the last 5 miles being A-roads and roundabouts. As I previously mentioned, my juddering issues are now significantly reduced with further cleaning to be done...and the Average MPG display is showing 63.2 mpg. Ask Sethsmate, he gets good MPG and he's up and down the Maesteg Alps most of the time.
OK, so let's say the display is now 10% out after chipping. That's still giving well over 56mpg at a steady 70mph. :y
An accurate test would be to Brim it - Drive it - Brim it ....when I can afford to fill it ;D
1) Mine said around 47mpg...............towing a 1500kg caravan! real figure around 28/30mpg if I'm lucky.
2) And the rest I reckon the only way to test is as said and brim it and do a manual check as mentioned.
Having said all this it's a must to get your TD chipped, wouldn't change it back.
Mick
bet the economy has improved though, since chipping :)
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As a test, Omegatoy advised that I blank off the EGR pipe where it enters the throttle body(easy 10 minute job). I used a section cut from a coke can and evenly tightened up the two 13mm bolts to squeeze the tin over the lip and seal off the EGR pipe.
The judder has subsided significantly, not completely, but a heck of a lot better and now only happens occasionally in the 1500rpm > 2000rpm range.
I suspect next step is to remove the inlet manifold and throttle body and give them a good clean out with something like Gunk.
I may be in luck and not have an issue with the injection pump being on its last legs.
Omegatoy advised that using coke can material will only last a hundred miles or so before it burns through and that steel plate would be better, but I think(hope) I may be able to avoid this blanking by cleaning out the inlet manifold etc.
P.S
Don't let any of these tales of judders and rumbles put off any would be chippers. Earlier I had a 20 mile M4 run with cruise set at 70, with the last 5 miles being A-roads and roundabouts. As I previously mentioned, my juddering issues are now significantly reduced with further cleaning to be done...and the Average MPG display is showing 63.2 mpg. Ask Sethsmate, he gets good MPG and he's up and down the Maesteg Alps most of the time.
OK, so let's say the display is now 10% out after chipping. That's still giving well over 56mpg at a steady 70mph. :y
An accurate test would be to Brim it - Drive it - Brim it ....when I can afford to fill it ;D
1) Mine said around 47mpg...............towing a 1500kg caravan! real figure around 28/30mpg if I'm lucky.
2) And the rest I reckon the only way to test is as said and brim it and do a manual check as mentioned.
Having said all this it's a must to get your TD chipped, wouldn't change it back.
Mick
bet the economy has improved though, since chipping :)
Err .....the jury still out on that one, but I reckon so.
Hard to come to any conclusion as I don't use the TD as a daily, so can't check properly.
Drove it for the 1st time in around 10 days this week, then remembered the MOT runs out this week..........booked in for next week.
Mick
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Diesels do need lots of EGR for economy, so I'd be inclined to clean the egr (paint stripper).
I think I'm going to have the EGR pipework off and give it a spruce up and see if it has any effect - been meaning to do it for a while anyway.
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What is the EGR valve and what can happen when it fails?
http://www.parkers.co.uk/advice/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14421
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The plot thickens.
Cleaned the EGR and checked it's operating as it should. No issues there. Replaced the original std chip to get things back to basics.
Code 64 still showing so gave it another dose of Diesel Magic with a drop of Kent Fuel Guard II.
Code 64 now gone [size=10][size=9](phew!) [/size][/size] and Code 82 (Sensor injector start incorrect RPM-Signal) has now appeared for the 1st time, hence the title of this thread...but no code showing back then, just had a feeling, going on the symptoms (or maybe wishfull thinking...anything but the dreaded 64).
Just checked the fault codes and 82 still showing for the sensor injector...but 96 (EGR) is back again :-?
I've develop a twitch when anyone mentions Fault Codes. :D
Anyone know what socket/tool is required to remove the sensor injector ?
It's a deep 27mm socket, but needs to have a thin wall, as an impact socket is too thick to get down onto the sensor.
I would need to grind down and cut a section out of the side to allow the wires and plug to pass through if I have to use an impact socket.
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...and this evenings (un)lucky numbers are 64, 82 and 96. (Oh don't stop there, I'm sure you could find a few more to add !!)
Yep, they're back again. All three this time.
I know how he feels: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmQMYMcY6nI
I know the EGR is right, I cleaned and checked it last night.
Hopefully the injector sensor(82) is sending wrong signals and upsetting the others. Just need to find/make a socket to get it off.
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You need a 'window-type' deep hexagon socket dear Sospanite!
Most motor factors sell them, although I've got one here if you want a lend. As it's presently unused, you're welcome to take it on it's maiden voyage if you wish!
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Its called a Diesel Injector socket. Cheap ones break - Omegatoy did 2 of mine ;D - so I got some better quality Draper Expert ones.
But you may be able to repair the cable - so check cable for damage
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Its called a Diesel Injector socket. Cheap ones break - Omegatoy did 2 of mine ;D - so I got some better quality Draper Expert ones.
But you may be able to repair the cable - so check cable for damage
Got this en-route:
http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?strPageHistory=home&numSearchStartRecord=0&P_ID=3315&CAT_ID=0&numRecordPosition=1
TB, Yes....Omegatoy did mention he'd destroyed two of yours ::)
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Apart from the wiring, what faults can they develop and what rpm range does it regulate ?
From what I gather it's start-up and lower rpm range, but up to what point ?
Lord Maesteg, thanks for the offer of the socket. The one I've ordered today is now at Luton depot and should be delivered to me at work tomorrow, but it's good to know there's one available locally if I do an Omegatoy and start destroying them.
::) :y
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Apart from the wiring, what faults can they develop and what rpm range does it regulate ?
From what I gather it's start-up and lower rpm range, but up to what point ?
Lord Maesteg, thanks for the offer of the socket. The one I've ordered today is now at Luton depot and should be delivered to me at work tomorrow, but it's good to know there's one available locally if I do an Omegatoy and start destroying them.
::) :y
LOLOL The first one i took out of an omega td was a practice run at the scrappie, went there armed with a good quality socket and a 30 inch snapon breaker bar, got inlet off, put socket and breaker bar on injector and nothing it would not shift at all, poured some oil in the well gave it a few mins to soak in, tried breaker bar routine again and i may as well have tried to push a house over!!! hunted round found a nice piece of scaffold baR ABOUT 5 feet long, placed it over breaker bar and pushed and pushed and pushed as hard as i could 2 mins later there was a horrendously loud crack and i knew i had broken me breaker bar!! but no it was the sound of the injector letting go on the threads!!
success!!
i thought!!!
nope had to use the scaffold bar and walk around the car whilst unscrewing the injector to the accomanying sounds of threads being ripped apart, not a nice sound at all,
the injector finally gave up with about 2 threads to go an i could then undo it wit just the breaker bar on, thinkiung it would be ruined i insected the threads carefully on the injector, perfect!!!!! however the head it came off the threads didnt look to good(aluminium, )
So when i did the first road car i poured loads of parafin mixed with engine oil into the well and left it to soak over night just in case, came out beautifuuly smooth and was replaced with the scrapyard one with no worries!!
moral be careful when removin it mate!!!! :y
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Apart from the wiring, what faults can they develop and what rpm range does it regulate ?
From what I gather it's start-up and lower rpm range, but up to what point ?
Lord Maesteg, thanks for the offer of the socket. The one I've ordered today is now at Luton depot and should be delivered to me at work tomorrow, but it's good to know there's one available locally if I do an Omegatoy and start destroying them.
::) :y
When my No.4 injector played-up, the car felt like it was permanently trying to pull another tractor uphill!
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I've put the "Slugtune" chip back in for now, until I get this sorted. (Actually that's a bit un-fair on the standard chip as it's not that bad in standard VX mode, but the full power chip does make a big difference.)
At the moment it pulls fine, from 1000rpm in 5th, right up to red line. Needs 5-6 seconds of cranking when cold and about 2 seconds when warm. Un-even at idle but raising revs to around 1000rpm smoothes that out. Slightly un-even when on the move until 2500rpm and above.
Just been over my mates garage to give the injector a soaking with Silkopen in readyness for tomorrow evenings removal ceremony.
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Good luck tomorrow evening brother!
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Cheers matey.
After what Omegatoy said about it being seized solid, I thought it best to do some preparation.
Silkopen graphite penetrating spray is good stuff. This should be the ultimate test.
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Cheers matey.
After what Omegatoy said about it being seized solid, I thought it best to do some preparation.
Silkopen graphite penetrating spray is good stuff. This should be the ultimate test.
certainly will be!! injectors have an extremely fine thread for strength and close tolerances, i found it best to crack the seal more oil then wind it back in and keep doing it up and undoing it a bit more and so on, having said that the boys came out easy!!!! maybe cos the car was in constant use? whereas the scrappie one had sat for a year or so?
anyway good luck and dont forget to have new injector seal ready!!! :y
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Now I'm baffled :-?
This... http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?strPageHistory=home&numSearchStartRecord=0&P_ID=3315&CAT_ID=0&numRecordPosition=1 will not go down onto the injector.
The walls are 5mm thick and the corners are 3mm. It will not go down into the injector recess.
Could someone please measure one that they have actually used and know for certain the size of the socket and thickness of the wall ?
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:o :o :o The injector came out with ease. No cracking, no long extention bar. No force at all. This is from a motor that has been idle for 18 months and has done 225k miles.
Either I have been very lucky (for a change) or Silkolene Silkopen is a superb penetrating/releasing fluid.
Had to grind my brand new Sealey injector socket to get it to go down into the recess. Tapping it on with a hammer just wasn't working.
Got a foot long power bar and was prepared to raise a sweat. As I started to apply a little pressure to take up any slack before the big push...the injector turned and unscrewed...easy as can be.
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:o :o :o The injector came out with ease. No cracking, no long extention bar. No force at all. This is from a motor that has been idle for 18 months and has done 225k miles.
Either I have been very lucky (for a change) or Silkolene Silkopen is a superb penetrating/releasing fluid.
Had to grind my brand new Sealey injector socket to get it to go down into the recess. Tapping it on with a hammer just wasn't working.
Got a foot long power bar and was prepared to raise a sweat. As I started to apply a little pressure to take up any slack before the big push...the injector turned and unscrewed...easy as can be.
great news!! but does it run any better now????????? :o
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Not yet, I just removed the injector from my spare engine. Had 2 hours to do the job, which would have been ample time, but I had a Full Geometry appointment and didn't want to risk missing it due to something not going to plan.
I also have to re-solder the injector wires as they were severed when I trapped them between the inlet manifold and the ports whilst changing Glo-Plugs. I used brass screw connectors as a temporay fix (well, 20k miles ago) but I'll do a proper job this time.
Still amazed how easily the injector came off. You'd think I'd just fitted it 2 mins earlier. It's either luck, or Silkopen is an excellent penetrating/releasing fluid.
Will probably do the swap on Saturday afternoon.
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Hmm, in theory a repaired wire will not affect it but in practice it does!!
mrs omegatoys had a repaired pietzo injector on it from a small accident sometime in its life and although 90pecent of the time it was ok it still threw up random code 64 every now and then, this was only
fully cured by replacing it with an undamaged one, as the boy will no doubt confirm, as it was him that kept clearing the code when the light came on!! :y
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Interesting ! Mind you, I ran it for about 20k miles with the temporary repair.
It's worth a try, only cost will be a few hours work. If it's still faulty but with different symptoms, at least I'll know it's the sensor injector that is causing the uneven idle and the judder when the full power chip was fitted.
Don't mind spending money on a new injector if I know it is going to sort out my issues. :y
How are codes cleared ? I thought they self deleted either when the fault had been rectified or within a few engine start/stops.
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Interesting ! Mind you, I ran it for about 20k miles with the temporary repair.
It's worth a try, only cost will be a few hours work. If it's still faulty but with different symptoms, at least I'll know it's the sensor injector that is causing the uneven idle and the judder when the full power chip was fitted.
Don't mind spending money on a new injector if I know it is going to sort out my issues. :y
How are codes cleared ? I thought they self deleted either when the fault had been rectified or within a few engine start/stops.
I'm sure that you'll need a Tech2 to 'clean-out' the memory.
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Dunno, but since cleaning the EGR, 96 has gone, then re-appeared and has now been gone for a few days. It's currently alternating between 82 (Injector) by itself or together with 64 (Nooo...please, not that one !!!)
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Dunno, but since cleaning the EGR, 96 has gone, then re-appeared and has now been gone for a few days. It's currently alternating between 82 (Injector) by itself or together with 64 (Nooo...please, not that one !!!)
Like your good self sir, I'd be inclined to change that No4 jobbie, and see what occurs.
Let's keep our fingers crossed on Saturday for you buddy!
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Fingers, toes...and anything else I can cross. ;D
I'll be a lump of hell if it's a pump issue.
Reasonably optimistic it's the sensor. Warm starting is ok(ish) at about 3 seconds of cranking. Cold start takes about 10 seconds.