Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: SMD on 05 May 2009, 17:50:21
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hello,
i will be changing my front pads on thursday and wanted to get clued up beforehand. i've seen them get changed on my last car ( :D ) so i have a rough idea on what to expect but every car is different so some tips on changing it on the omega would be great and the basic tools needed would be great.
regarding jacking the car, i will be using a trolley jack and some axle stands so where do i jack the car so i can use the axle stands on the jacking point? or can i work on the car while its on the trolley jack?
also does anyone bother torque-ing the wheels or just do them up really tight?
thanks
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I do not personally know how to change the brake pads myself, but more knowledgeable members will surely help you out with it. However, check the following which may be helpful when you change the front pads:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1192573698
Cheers
Ziad
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...can i work on the car while its on the trolley jack?
NEVER work on a car supported by only a jack (of any kind).
ALWAYS use axle stands or other sutable fixed supports of adequate rating for what they support.
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agreed! always use at least 2 axle stands and put the wheel you remove underneath the jack point so just incase the stands do fail the car will crush your wheel and not your arms/legs/torso/face.
One thing I would recommend is buying a tube of locktite (blue gluey stuff) and applying that to the caliper bolts before reattatching. Not 100% necesary (tbh I didnt bother last time) but it is good for peace of mind to know that your caliper bolts are actually glued in place as well as being done up really tight.
Also something along the lines of a 10ltr paint tub if handy. sit it next to the brake disk before you remove the caliper so that you have something to sit it on once it's not connected to the hub. The number of times I've pulled something off my car then realised that I don't have anything to put it down on....
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What year is it? There are two types of caliper bolts
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...can i work on the car while its on the trolley jack?
NEVER work on a car supported by only a jack (of any kind).
ALWAYS use axle stands or other sutable fixed supports of adequate rating for what they support.
I undersatnd the sentiments but if you're only changing pads, and are not going to be doing anything that could unsteady the car on the jack ie beating 10 colours out of bearings etc then the car will be OK on the jack while you do the job. As long as the car is on the level, on firm ground ie not a a field in the middle of Rufforth ;D and the jack is lifting the car at a suitable point on the 'chassis'. Just put the wheel you've taken off under the sill.
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What year is it? There are two types of caliper bolts
its 1998
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Where are you? If you're local I'll help ;) :y
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What year is it? There are two types of caliper bolts
its 1998
Good, the older ones had a pain in the @rse of a allen key to do :y
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Where are you? If you're local I'll help ;) :y
I'm in London. Miles away from West Midlands :-[ damn
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...can i work on the car while its on the trolley jack?
NEVER work on a car supported by only a jack (of any kind).
ALWAYS use axle stands or other sutable fixed supports of adequate rating for what they support.
I undersatnd the sentiments but if you're only changing pads, and are not going to be doing anything that could unsteady the car on the jack ie beating 10 colours out of bearings etc then the car will be OK on the jack while you do the job. As long as the car is on the level, on firm ground ie not a a field in the middle of Rufforth ;D and the jack is lifting the car at a suitable point on the 'chassis'. Just put the wheel you've taken off under the sill.
Thats a hell of a lot of faith to put into a simple oil seal :o
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...can i work on the car while its on the trolley jack?
NEVER work on a car supported by only a jack (of any kind).
ALWAYS use axle stands or other sutable fixed supports of adequate rating for what they support.
I undersatnd the sentiments but if you're only changing pads, and are not going to be doing anything that could unsteady the car on the jack ie beating 10 colours out of bearings etc then the car will be OK on the jack while you do the job. As long as the car is on the level, on firm ground ie not a a field in the middle of Rufforth ;D and the jack is lifting the car at a suitable point on the 'chassis'. Just put the wheel you've taken off under the sill.
Thats a hell of a lot of faith to put into a simple oil seal :o
It was preferable to the silly half a scissor jack that comes with the car. ;)
Mike Dundee's car was worked on relying on the simple oil seal of my £18 Machine MArt special .... on a grass field. :y
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...can i work on the car while its on the trolley jack?
NEVER work on a car supported by only a jack (of any kind).
ALWAYS use axle stands or other sutable fixed supports of adequate rating for what they support.
I undersatnd the sentiments but if you're only changing pads, and are not going to be doing anything that could unsteady the car on the jack ie beating 10 colours out of bearings etc then the car will be OK on the jack while you do the job. As long as the car is on the level, on firm ground ie not a a field in the middle of Rufforth ;D and the jack is lifting the car at a suitable point on the 'chassis'. Just put the wheel you've taken off under the sill.
Thats a hell of a lot of faith to put into a simple oil seal :o
I agree... Although I am known to do it frequently due to picking up bad habits from my spannering times. That said, the wheel is always under the sill and it's my jack, which I know is good and well checked over :y :y :y
Doesn't make it right, and I wouldn't advise anyone to do it with just a jack, but it's my confession :-[ :-[ :-[
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support on axle stands always, and don't forget to undo brake fluid reservoir cap and put some rag around the side of reservoir body.
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support on axle stands always, and don't forget to undo brake fluid reservoir cap and put some rag around the side of reservoir body.
Better to undo the bleed nipple and let the fluid out as you push the calipers back then you don't risk inverting the seals on the master cylinder.
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support on axle stands always, and don't forget to undo brake fluid reservoir cap and put some rag around the side of reservoir body.
Better to undo the bleed nipple and let the fluid out as you push the calipers back then you don't risk inverting the seals on the master cylinder.
but you'll need 3 pairs of hands to do that - or will have to bleed afterwards? :-?
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but you'll need 3 pairs of hands to do that - or will have to bleed afterwards? :-?
Just slacken off the bleed nipple (preferably with a tube over the end going to a jar) as you push the piston back in to put tthe new pads in. Effectively you're bleeding them as you do this. Obviously keep an eye on the reservoir level. :y
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Thats a hell of a lot of faith to put into a simple oil seal :o
A simple rubber ring it may be, but unless it manages to blow itself out in an instant, there is no way the jack will let the car drop instantly.
Just like Andy B, I am guilty of leaving the car supported by the jack itself (not the cheap Halfords crap I hasten to add) if doing a simple job such as pads, although I always leave the wheel under the sill and never put any part of my body between the car & the tarmac while performing said task.
As for slackening off a bleed nipple while pushing pistons back, there really should be no need if the braking system is functioning as the manufacturer intended.
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As for slackening off a bleed nipple while pushing pistons back, there really should be no need if the braking system is functioning as the manufacturer intended.
Seals are easily reversed if you force the fluid back up to the reservoir too quickly .... apparently! ;)
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As for slackening off a bleed nipple while pushing pistons back, there really should be no need if the braking system is functioning as the manufacturer intended.
Seals are easily reversed if you force the fluid back up to the reservoir too quickly .... apparently! ;)
(http://www.natadsltest2.clara.co.uk/img/rofl.gif)
I'm reading that as a bit of a laugh at someones expense Andy ;)
I've been doing "home servicing" for 27 years, and never managed to reverse a seal on itself.
I'm not saying it couldn't happen of course....I'm sure if someone could manage to exert 1000's of lbs of pressure, or the seal was shagged from the start then it may very well fail....but other than that....... ;)
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As for slackening off a bleed nipple while pushing pistons back, there really should be no need if the braking system is functioning as the manufacturer intended.
Seals are easily reversed if you force the fluid back up to the reservoir too quickly .... apparently! ;)
(http://www.natadsltest2.clara.co.uk/img/rofl.gif)
I'm reading that as a bit of a laugh at someones expense Andy ;)
I've been doing "home servicing" for 27 years, and never managed to reverse a seal on itself.
I'm not saying it couldn't happen of course....I'm sure if someone could manage to exert 1000's of lbs of pressure, or the seal was shagged from the start then it may very well fail....but other than that....... ;)
been servicing my own and family's cars for 15 years and never managed to do it either :-?
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thanks for all the replies.
i will not take any risks so axle stands all they way, but where can i safely put them under the car?
secondly, do i need to remove the entire caliper or can i get away with just removing one of the bolts and swinging the caliper off the disc (with the other bolt still attached) and change the pads like that?
tools wise, i dont have a ratchet/socket set, can i do the job with a pair of adjustable spanners?
also can someone please explain what this post is about? http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1192573698
thanks once again ;)
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thanks for all the replies.
i will not take any risks so axle stands all they way, but where can i safely put them under the car?
secondly, do i need to remove the entire caliper or can i get away with just removing one of the bolts and swinging the caliper off the disc (with the other bolt still attached) and change the pads like that?
tools wise, i dont have a ratchet/socket set, can i do the job with a pair of adjustable spanners?
also can someone please explain what this post is about? http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1192573698
thanks once again ;)
In a word ...... NO!
The post shows where the sensor for the low brake pad warning clips to the brake pad(s)
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thanks for all the replies.
i will not take any risks so axle stands all they way, but where can i safely put them under the car?
secondly, do i need to remove the entire caliper or can i get away with just removing one of the bolts and swinging the caliper off the disc (with the other bolt still attached) and change the pads like that?
tools wise, i dont have a ratchet/socket set, can i do the job with a pair of adjustable spanners?
also can someone please explain what this post is about? http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1192573698
thanks once again ;)
I always jack the front by locating saddle of jack in the 'lifting cup' on end of chassis arm and then put an axle stand under the main chassis rail. :y
and no you'll need a bit more than an adjustable spanner ::)
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generally its a good idea to buy a pair of ware sensors with the pads from vx. They are brittle and difficult to remove without breaking. You can try to remove and re use the old ones but they will most likely break first time you do it. There is a knack to it.(i am assuming all models have them by the way?)
Also do not fix them to the pad until you are dead certain of the routing as you dont want to have to take them out again and risk breaking the new ones. If you do get the old ones off in one piece you can take the new ones back, if they let you.
Imho its good tip to open the bleed nipple when pushing the piston back in as it will help remove the fluid most exposed to heat from the breaks. Bleed some fluid(4 dot) through at this point if you can. Seem to remember Mark dtm talking about this....
If you leave the nipple done up you will need to remove the master cylinder cap and be carefull the fluid does not over flow when the piston pushes the fluid back to the reservoir.
Good idea to support the caliper as said, you dont want the whole wait pulling on the brake lines.
Also worth checking the caliper sliders move freely and are not dry. Do not use copper slip for this, grease only.
Use stands if you have them and or put the removed wheel under the sill.
All else is fairly straight forward iirc.
Hth
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As for slackening off a bleed nipple while pushing pistons back, there really should be no need if the braking system is functioning as the manufacturer intended.
Seals are easily reversed if you force the fluid back up to the reservoir too quickly .... apparently! ;)
(http://www.natadsltest2.clara.co.uk/img/rofl.gif)
I'm reading that as a bit of a laugh at someones expense Andy ;)
I've been doing "home servicing" for 27 years, and never managed to reverse a seal on itself.
I'm not saying it couldn't happen of course....I'm sure if someone could manage to exert 1000's of lbs of pressure, or the seal was shagged from the start then it may very well fail....but other than that....... ;)
I'm not that sure I've ever done it myself either. I'm unsure of the general performance of my brakes at the moment anyway. I'm sure that there used to be a bit more feel to them, but Mark drove my car and didn't think they were any different from any other, but .... I drove Ian_D's diseasal and I thought its were better than mine.
PS I've got another 10 years on you for home servicing. ;) ;) ;)
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...... Do not use copper slip for this, grease only.
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Why? :-/ :-/ :-/ I've used it for (more than 27 ;)) years!
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...... Do not use copper slip for this, grease only.
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Why? :-/ :-/ :-/ I've used it for (more than 27 ;)) years!
lol
old git :D :D ;D
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lol
old git :D :D ;D
that's me!
and less of the old!!!! :y :y
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lol
old git :D :D ;D
that's me!
and less of the old!!!! :y :y
sorry - experienced git :y
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lol
old git :D :D ;D
that's me!
and less of the old!!!! :y :y
sorry - experienced git :y
that's better!!! I like that!! ;D ;D ;D
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...... Do not use copper slip for this, grease only.
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Why? :-/ :-/ :-/ I've used it for (more than 27 ;)) years!
I have to ask the same question as Andy B.
I've used Coppaslip since day one on sliding calipers, and I'm still in one piece and never had a problem....so I'm guesing that I'm doing something right when fixing/servicing brakes.
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on the sliders? Probably the number one cause of sticking sliders causing the caliper to bind on the disc. I know a bike mech who used it liberally . He had a good supply of return customers with binding calipers, warped discs, and in one case crash damage where the breaks would not release when entering a turn.
Seen it first hand from his customers when he stopped trading. Copper slip cant take the heat and drys out setting like glue. Read the label it is NOT a lubricant. Use lubricants for lubricating.
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on the sliders? Probably the number one cause of sticking sliders causing the caliper to bind on the disc. I know a bike mech who used it liberally .
That would be his first problem then Chris....too much of a good thing and all that.
I used to run 9 second quarters at the Bulldog on a GSX 1100 ET (my day to day streetbike back in the day), no problem stopping at the other end.
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lol
old git :D :D ;D
that's me!
and less of the old!!!! :y :y
sorry - experienced git :y
That's right son, and just you remember....talking the job for 2 years in college don't mean s**t in the real world ;D
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if you use copper slip on the mating surfaces between hub and wheel you must have noticed how dry it is when the wheel comes back of for the next new tire or whatever? That will not help your sliders move one bit. Yes, on the sliders it behind a rubber boot, which helps, but it will dry out alot quicker than grease.
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Copper slip cant take the heat and drys out setting like glue. Read the label it is NOT a lubricant. Use lubricants for lubricating.
Taken from Bowman Industrial Chemicals (courtesy of an empty tim I brought home from work to read the label of ;))
Copper Grease
Ensures excellent protection for meatl parts against heast, siezure, corrosion, water & acid. This product is designed to form a protective coating that will not wash or burn off.
Uses
Helps prevent disc brake squeal - when used directly to calipers & back of disc pad
etc etc
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...... the job for 2 years in college ......
Never been to college ..... I got my bits of paper from the MOD ;)
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if you use copper slip on the mating surfaces between hub and wheel you must have noticed how dry it is when the wheel comes back of for the next new tire or whatever? That will not help your sliders move one bit. Yes, on the sliders it behind a rubber boot, which helps, but it will dry out alot quicker than grease.
It does dry out leaving a layer of copper! I've never had repeat prblems removing wheels etc after a smear of copper slip ...... and i saw half a dozen big blokes knocking several shades out of MikeDundees irmscher rims which were dry as a proverbial witches .... :y
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on the sliders? Probably the number one cause of sticking sliders causing the caliper to bind on the disc. I know a bike mech who used it liberally .
That would be his first problem then Chris....too much of a good thing and all that.
I used to run 9 second quarters at the Bulldog on a GSX 1100 ET (my day to day streetbike back in the day), no problem stopping at the other end.
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lol
old git :D :D ;D
that's me!
and less of the old!!!! :y :y
sorry - experienced git :y
That's right son, and just you remember....talking the job for 2 years in college don't mean s**t in the real world ;D
Merely an example.
Drag racing is no test of a breaking system. And its binding thats the issue, you will stop fine.
Your brakes, your car/bike, take it or leave it.
Cant type as quick as you olduns. :-)
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Copper slip cant take the heat and drys out setting like glue. Read the label it is NOT a lubricant. Use lubricants for lubricating.
Taken from Bowman Industrial Chemicals (courtesy of an empty tim I brought home from work to read the label of ;))
Copper Grease
Ensures excellent protection for meatl parts against heast, siezure, corrosion, water & acid. This product is designed to form a protective coating that will not wash or burn off.
Uses
Helps prevent disc brake squeal - when used directly to calipers & back of disc pad
etc etc
"designed to form a protective coating" granted.
But not one single word about lubrication.
If you use grease you will not need to buy industrial size quantitys of copper slip. The bit about brake squeak will work fine....for about a week. Load of 'dangle berries'. Sorry just is.
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"designed to form a protective coating" granted.
But not one single word about lubrication.
If you use grease you will not need to buy industrial size quantitys of copper slip. The bit about brake squeak will work fine....for about a week. Load of 'dangle berries'. Sorry just is.
we'll have to agree to disagree. If your pads are able to move in the calipers due to the copper slip preventing them from rusting solid in there (as mine were when I got the car due to total lack of any kind of lub) I've never ever had a problem due to binding or squealing brakes ... ever. And I've used the stuff for the best part of 30 years.
Sorry .... it just works! :y
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never ever had a problem either and never ever use it on breaks. Only ever use it on hub to wheel. Dont get me wrong it does have its uses. Just def not on sliders.
One Q. Best lube? Grease of copper slip?
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One Q. Best lube? Grease of copper slip?
One that won't melt under high temp & run off the caliper & over the disc :y
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One Q. Best lube? Grease of copper slip?
One that won't melt under high temp & run off the caliper & over the disc :y
?...Do your sliders not have rubber boots on then?
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One Q. Best lube? Grease of copper slip?
One that won't melt under high temp & run off the caliper & over the disc :y
?...Do your sliders not have rubber boots on then?
Yes, IIRC I use 'proper' grease in there. But I'm talking about using copper slip on the edges of the pads where they sit in the calipers.
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whats that noise?.... Ah yes, back pedaling. ::)...
Also worth checking the caliper sliders move freely and are not dry. Do not use copper slip for this, grease only.
...... Do not use copper slip for this, grease only.
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Why? :-/ :-/ :-/ I've used it for (more than 27 ;)) years!
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whats that noise?.... Ah yes, back pedaling. ::)...
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Not at all ...... IMO 'proper' grease is no good for the metal to metal contact of the pad's backing plate & the caliper, which is exactly what was discussed in the first place as the sliders don't generally rust due to the boot.
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whats that noise?.... Ah yes, back pedaling. ::)...
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Not at all ...... IMO 'proper' grease is no good for the metal to metal contact of the pad's backing plate & the caliper, which is exactly what was discussed in the first place as the sliders don't generally rust due to the boot.
Pull the other one Andy ;D.... aaaanyway, as originally stated in response to the original poster, if hes not run off by now, do not use copper slip on the sliders, use grease. And to keep Andy happy, bless him,( ;) )"if" yous pads squeak and you really want to put copper slip on the pad backing you can obviously, but it wont last more than a week before any squeak returns, at which point put the shims on that should come with the pads to sort the squeak out properly.
Hth. :-)
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whats that noise?.... Ah yes, back pedaling. ::)...
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Not at all ...... IMO 'proper' grease is no good for the metal to metal contact of the pad's backing plate & the caliper, which is exactly what was discussed in the first place as the sliders don't generally rust due to the boot.
Pull the other one Andy ;D.... aaaanyway, as originally stated in response to the original poster, if hes not run off by now, do not use copper slip on the sliders, use grease. And to keep Andy happy, bless him,( ;) )"if" yous pads squeak and you really want to put copper slip on the pad backing you can obviously, but it wont last more than a week before any squeak returns, at which point put the shims on that should come with the pads to sort the squeak out properly.
Hth. :-)
..... :-X :-X :-X :-X ;)
must resist ...... must resist ......
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im ready to do this...
tool wise, im going to buy this: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/77004/Van-Car-Accessories/Sockets-Hex/Forge-Steel-Socket-Set-3-8-19-Pieces
is this enough and does it have the right size bits?
lubrication wise, http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=VOBE5X2DKAR4YCSTHZPCFFQ?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=copper+grease&searchbutton.x=0&searchbutton.y=0&searchbutton=submit
is this ok to use? do i need a brake cleaner too?
I always jack the front by locating saddle of jack in the 'lifting cup' on end of chassis arm and then put an axle stand under the main chassis rail. :y
any chance of a picture please? :-*
EDIT: i assume torquing the wheels is not necessary?
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EDIT: i assume torquing the wheels is not necessary?
You should do really. 81 ft/lbs by the book. If you have to change a wheel on the hard shoulder, you can leave it out to get going, but you don't want your wheel parting company from the hub. :-? Conversely, you want to be able to get the bugger off without a 6' scaffold pole when you're on the hard shoulder. :y :y
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had a go at changing the pads today. the wrench that came with the car was nearly rounded so getting the wheel off was a PITA.
looked at the condition of the discs and the back look like this:
(http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/uploads/8120/CIMG3131.JPG)
Is this what they are supposed to look like? Or are they buggered? Didnt change the pads in the end as I wanted to check here first to see if the discs needed changing too.
fronts look ok:
(http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/uploads/8120/CIMG3132.JPG)
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Is this what they are supposed to look like?
No.
are they buggered?
Yes.
(http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/uploads/8120/CIMG3131.JPG)
The back of the disc is badly damaged. The whole of the pad hasn't been pressing against the disc, and this has allowed part of the disc to rust. It should be shiny almost to the edge of the disc - see the pic of the front of the disc to see what a nice shiny track should look like. If you put a new pad in that rust will shred the pad where it rubs against it. Your new pads will be damaged quite quickly, and you may get braking problems as well - if the rusty bit grips the pad too hard your brake might grab, causing the car to pull to that side on braking.
(http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/uploads/8120/CIMG3132.JPG)
The front face looks a lot better, but there's still evidence of damage there. If you look at about the 11 o'clock position you'll see a couple of cracks radiating outwards towards the edge of the disc, and another one at about 10 o'clock. There are also a lot of radial lines visible on the bottom third of the disc.
The inner damage has probably been caused by the pad not being changed in time and so there's not enough of the friction material left on the pad to contact all the disc, or by the caliper not being able to move freely on the sliders (and I'm not getting drawn into the argument about Copper Slip!). The damage on the outer face is caused by overheating, either because the brakes have been overused due to some 'overenthusiastic' driving, or possibly in this case because the outer face has been doing all the braking because the inner face hasn't been contributing much.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it's time to dig even deeper into the pocket and shell out for new discs. Change both sides, don't try to just change this side if the other side looks okay - it's false economy, and could cause the brakes to work better on one side than the other leading to the car pulling to one side or the other when braking.
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EDIT: i assume torquing the wheels is not necessary?
If you've been tinkering with cars for about a hundred years, like some of us on the forum, you'll have a pretty fair idea what "tight enough" feels like (though even we resort to a torque wrench when doing things like tightening head bolts). As you're taking your first steps in the wonderful world of car repair, though, you won't have that 'feel', so I'd recommend that you buy a torque wrench and go by the numbers. Otherwise there's a good chance that you'll overtighten or undertighten the bolts. If you overtighten them it will make it harder for you to get the wheels off (and punctures always happen at night when it's peeing down and you're wearing your best suit and in a hurry to get somewhere!). It's also theoretically possible that you could overtighten them to the extent that they start to stretch and can break off while you're driving along, but unless you're built like Godzilla or use a scaffolding pole you're unlikely to get them that tight. If you undertighten them there's a very good chance that they'll come loose again and your wheel can fall off. :o
Use a torque wrench - as well as the wheel studs you'll be able to use it on nearly every nut or bolt you take off. Just about everything on the car has an official torque setting, as calculated by Vauxhall and listed in the various manuals (eg Haynes) so you'll be able to use it on just about every job you do in the future.
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thanks for the informative reply :y
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when replacing the discs/pads, ensure the calipers are nice and free...
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Out of interest, and for the education of any OOFers who read this thread in the future, when you do replace the discs and pads is there any chance you could post pics of the pads back to this thread? If you could photograph the friction material side and indicate which pad was the inner and which the outer on this wheel we can match the wear/damage on the pads to the rust/damage on the discs and perhaps explain to you (and others) exactly what's happened.
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Out of interest, and for the education of any OOFers who read this thread in the future, when you do replace the discs and pads is there any chance you could post pics of the pads back to this thread? If you could photograph the friction material side and indicate which pad was the inner and which the outer on this wheel we can match the wear/damage on the pads to the rust/damage on the discs and perhaps explain to you (and others) exactly what's happened.
Or better still, to the Maintenece Guide ;)
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I have read this post with interest as its my next job on both cars :o I have got one set of pads already although not sure of make and had hoped not to have to change discs. The front looked ok when I had a quick look but never looked at the back :-[ I have learnt how to do things to make the car run better, glow plugs etc but making it stop is a bit more important than getting it going!!! If I get that wrong Im not just stuck with out car :'( :'( :'( :'( So going to get garage to do them. I have been quoted for pads & discs £190, thats just for 1 car. Is that about right and as I have had some real bad luck with garages how do I know who to trust :-? maybe I should ask the question in general if anyone can reccomend anyone local to me :y
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Out of interest, and for the education of any OOFers who read this thread in the future, when you do replace the discs and pads is there any chance you could post pics of the pads back to this thread? If you could photograph the friction material side and indicate which pad was the inner and which the outer on this wheel we can match the wear/damage on the pads to the rust/damage on the discs and perhaps explain to you (and others) exactly what's happened.
Can't remember which one it was now! :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k17/Tiff4327/041.jpg)
as you can see ..... there wasn't much left! ::)
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Can't remember which one it was now! :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
as you can see ..... there wasn't much left! ::)
Is that the pad from SMD's motor? I'm just confused as to why you're posting pictures of his brake pads! :-?
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Can't remember which one it was now! :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
as you can see ..... there wasn't much left! ::)
Is that the pad from SMD's motor? I'm just confused as to why you're posting pictures of his brake pads! :-?
You asked for pictures of brake pads ::) ....... the pad shown was what came out the back of my car last year (compared with one of the new pads about to go in. :-[ It had just started metal to metal. :-[ :-[ :-[
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You asked for pictures of brake pads ::) ....... the pad shown was what came out the back of my car last year (compared with one of the new pads about to go in. :-[ It had just started metal to metal. :-[ :-[ :-[
I'm hoping for a pic of SMD's pads so we can match the wear on the pads to the damage on the disc. If I can get the matching pics I'll have a go at something for the Maintenance section. Thanks for your pics though - it'll be useful to compare the pics with a brand new pad and with one which is the thickness of a fag paper! ;)
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i'll have the pics next weekend :y
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I have read this post with interest as its my next job on both cars :o I have got one set of pads already although not sure of make and had hoped not to have to change discs. The front looked ok when I had a quick look but never looked at the back :-[ I have learnt how to do things to make the car run better, glow plugs etc but making it stop is a bit more important than getting it going!!! If I get that wrong Im not just stuck with out car :'( :'( :'( :'( So going to get garage to do them. I have been quoted for pads & discs £190, thats just for 1 car. Is that about right and as I have had some real bad luck with garages how do I know who to trust :-? maybe I should ask the question in general if anyone can reccomend anyone local to me :y
Don't be put off servicing your brakes just because of the potential danger if you get it wrong. Changing brake pads is generally one of the easiest jobs on a modern car. I admit I haven't changed any Omega pads yet, but I've done them on numerous other makes of car and it's pretty easy.
A suggestion - whip your wheels off and post photos of both sides of each disc to this thread. If we think it's a simple 'pads out, pads in' job we'll tell you and you can do it for yourself, but if it looks like your discs need replacing as well, which could be a bit more than you want to tackle (though even that isn't too much of a job) you can make the decision whether to take it to a garage after all. You might surprise yourself though - the jobs you did on your engine a week or two ago were probably more complex than changing pads.
Go on, give it a try! What's the worst that can happen??? ;)
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..... - it'll be useful to compare the pics with a brand new pad and with one which is the thickness of a fag paper! ;)
;D ;D ;D ;D
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[size=16]why not do as we all do and just put the tyre under the car as well as the jack??unless your gonna hammer the 5hite out of it your gonna be fine??[/size]
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why not do as we all do and just put the tyre under the car as well as the jack??unless your gonna hammer the 5hite out of it your gonna be fine??
This is NOT a recommended practice. The jack is a flimsy lightweight piece of equipment that is NOT braced for side loads.
It takes less than 30 seconds to place an axle stand correctly and be safe. I have seen the result of a car falling off a jack whilst being worked on. The Funeral was interupted by the childrens crying on several occasions.
I changed my discs and pads last Thursday, the axle stands took less time to use than it did to drink the coffee SWTSMBO made me half way through.
If you can't do a job properly .... why bother doing it ?
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wasnt sure if andy ilsf was replying to me but the first thing I was told on here was to take care when underneath a car. So I went and got my ramps, axle stands and another jack. :) :) :) :) :) :) When I changed the oil I even bounced on the car as I wasnt taking any chance :y Have not had time to look at brakes yet but hope to have a go tomorrow, someone told me I wouldnt be strong enough to do them :( :( :( not sure what he meant :-/
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wasnt sure if andy ilsf was replying to me but the first thing I was told on here was to take care when underneath a car. So I went and got my ramps, axle stands and another jack. :) :) :) :) :) :) When I changed the oil I even bounced on the car as I wasnt taking any chance :y Have not had time to look at brakes yet but hope to have a go tomorrow, someone told me I wouldnt be strong enough to do them :( :( :( not sure what he meant :-/
now i can be a sexist pig at times ::) but even i wouldn't have said that >:(
you don't need any strength to change the pads :-?
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wasnt sure if andy ilsf was replying to me but the first thing I was told on here was to take care when underneath a car. So I went and got my ramps, axle stands and another jack. :) :) :) :) :) :) When I changed the oil I even bounced on the car as I wasnt taking any chance :y Have not had time to look at brakes yet but hope to have a go tomorrow, someone told me I wouldnt be strong enough to do them :( :( :( not sure what he meant :-/
The only hard part of doing the front discs are the 2 caliper to hub mounting bolts ( you don't remove these to replace the pads only) as they are torqued to 95 Nm + 45 degrees. The easiest way to undo them is with a decent torque wrench set to undo... the length gives nice leverage.
If you have a large pair of pipe-wrenches use them to SLOWLY squeeze the caliper back in, aviods having to bleed the system after .. :)
I don't rush jobs and, as said I use axle stands, even so it was only about 45 minutes a side.
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wasnt sure if andy ilsf was replying to me but the first thing I was told on here was to take care when underneath a car. So I went and got my ramps, axle stands and another jack. :) :) :) :) :) :) When I changed the oil I even bounced on the car as I wasnt taking any chance :y
A minor point to consider when using jacks and stands is that depending on where you put them the car, or part of it, can still move if the jack slips. There are two possibilities:
1. Jack under the suspension, stands under the body: If the jack slips the wheels will come down as the springs extend. The car won't move, but the suspension will, which could cause injury.
2. Jack under the body, stands under the suspension: If the jack slips the car body will drop until the springs have compressed enough to take the weight. It'll probably only move 2-3 inches, but if you're lying underneath it it could still cause you injury.
The best thing is to jack under the body and put stands under the body, or if you jack under the suspension then when you've put the stands in lower the jack again until the weight is all on the stands. At least that way you know that the suspension isn't going to move any further.
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just thought i'd update this thread. changed the discs and pads the other day but didnt torque the nuts (didnt know you needed to) just did them tight. is this a big problem?
anyway the pads weren't paper thin as i thought they might be, they were fitted quite recently infact. one of the senors was cut off, hence the message on the trip computer.
i think the pictures below describe the problem better than i can:
inside of disc:
(http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/uploads/8120/CIMG3225.JPG)
inside brake pad:
(http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/uploads/8120/CIMG3218.JPG)
(http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/uploads/8120/CIMG3217.JPG)
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They look pretty much identical to mine when I changed them a few weeks back .. :(
I wonder what causes the inside face, outmost edge of the disc to corrode far more than the outside face ?? It seems to be a common-ish problem... ?
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I wonder what causes the inside face, outmost edge of the disc to corrode far more than the outside face ?? It seems to be a common-ish problem... ?
There does seem to be a lot of disc that hasn't made contact with the pad. Mine just have a very thin/slim ridge around the outside where the pads haven't worn the disc. It's this ridge that normally cuts through the wear sensor way before the pads have worn out.
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.......
anyway the pads weren't paper thin as i thought they might be, ......
I'd put those pads to one side as 'known good spares' :y :y :y
you weren't trying or even close in the paper thin pads competition! ::) ::)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k17/Tiff4327/041.jpg)