Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: sev on 16 June 2009, 22:56:55
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Had the MOT on the old gal today and the following came up:
- ABS system warning lamp - ABS fault indicated.
(the garage reccommend chucking it through a Tech 2 in order to ascertain if it's the wheel speed sensors rather than ECU as the symtoms seem to point to that)
- Offside Headlamp aimbeam image kicked up to the Offside
This one got me as it would seem that my offside headlamp is actually a euro-spec lamp! So back on with the original non projectors we go.
However, what was strange was that the hydraulic lifter problem I thought I had was actually an exhaust manifold gasket blowing - but it still got through emissions!!
The garage I've taken it to does all the taxi's and government vehicles in the area.
Question - exhaust manifold gasket blowing on Driverside cylinder bank apparently, so in terms of anyone having done one before, are there any tricks I should know regarding getting the infamouse studs loose?
What is worrying though is that the two rear shocks both have a light misting of oil on them. Not enough to fail on, as they were not leaking as such, but they were only put on in november, and are genuine VX items. :o
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ABS light...remove the bulb for the MOT...get it sorted after...
Swap lights over as said...
Get fuel leak sorted urgently
If it didnt fail on blowing exhaust gasket, dont sort it till after it has a full MOT!!
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ABS light...remove the bulb for the MOT...get it sorted after...
Swap lights over as said...
Get fuel leak sorted urgently
If it didnt fail on blowing exhaust gasket, dont sort it till after it has a full MOT!!
My thoughts exactly MC, as far as i'm concerned it's passed it's emmissions so that's cool as far as i'm concerned.
I've got it booked in to have the Tech 2 put on it, and the fuel pipe done, as I don't have access to a ramp at the mo.
Disconnect the light you say.... how do I do that then ? :y
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Disconnect the light you say.... how do I do that then ? :y
If the tester doesn't see the ABS light come on when the ignition is switched on and then extinguish after 5 seconds (or whatever the time delay is), then it's still a failure.
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ABS light...remove the bulb for the MOT...get it sorted after...
Swap lights over as said...
Get fuel leak sorted urgently
If it didnt fail on blowing exhaust gasket, dont sort it till after it has a full MOT!!
My thoughts exactly MC, as far as i'm concerned it's passed it's emmissions so that's cool as far as i'm concerned.
I've got it booked in to have the Tech 2 put on it, and the fuel pipe done, as I don't have access to a ramp at the mo.
Disconnect the light you say.... how do I do that then ? :y
Remove the clocks panel, as per the link below (watch the video as well) and just take out the relevant bulb ;)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1192573381
;) ;)
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Disconnect the light you say.... how do I do that then ? :y
If the tester doesn't see the ABS light come on when the ignition is switched on and then extinguish after 5 seconds (or whatever the time delay is), then it's still a failure.
Not sure that is the case, worth checking mot handbook
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Disconnect the light you say.... how do I do that then ? :y
If the tester doesn't see the ABS light come on when the ignition is switched on and then extinguish after 5 seconds (or whatever the time delay is), then it's still a failure.
TB.... That is correct ...
http://www.motuk.com/mot_manual/3-4.asp#14
:(
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Disconnect the light you say.... how do I do that then ? :y
If the tester doesn't see the ABS light come on when the ignition is switched on and then extinguish after 5 seconds (or whatever the time delay is), then it's still a failure.
Not sure that is the case, worth checking mot handbook
I can tell you exactly what the handbook says J.
If the ABS light does not follow the correct procedure as stated by the manufacturer, it's an automatic MOT failure.
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Agreed, IMO, the ABS light not coming on with the ignition, on an ABS equipped car, should be an MOT failure.
Depends on how eagle eyed the tester is though :-X
Only a personal preference, but I think it is wholly unethical to pull warning lights out to get through an MOT.
Fix the fault! :y
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Agreed, IMO, the ABS light not coming on with the ignition, on an ABS equipped car, should be an MOT failure.
Depends on how eagle eyed the tester is though :-X
Only a personal preference, but I think it is wholly unethical to pull warning lights out to get through an MOT.
Fix the fault! :y
.....correct James - especially when the fault concerns safety critical equipment.
Simple rule: If it's on the car as original equipment, it should work. If it doesn't, fix it.
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.....correct James - especially when the fault concerns safety critical equipment.
ABS is hardly what I would call "safety critical", I'd say it's more a tool for the idiots who think having it fitted entitles them to drive 6" off your bumper.
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as its going for a retest for an abs fault....surely the tester will just laugh at you if youve removed the bulb!
'may' have worked before hand, but not after a fail surely!
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well it wasn't a case of 'just drive it in suir' he drove it onto the ramp.
The light behaves until you start to roll over 5mph then there seems to be a heavy power draw on the battery and both abs/tc lights come on.
I'd commented that the abs unit was a common fault on the early migs, but he's adamant that it's unlikely and probably a sensor issue. If it is, it can be only two things, the rear sensors, or the castleations that it reads on the pickup wheel (which i'm dreading).
JamesV6CDX, I agree which is why I take all my old sheds to this guy. He's as straight as a die, and someof the time I don't like what I hear from him, but at the same time after that I know its right - he normally spends over an hour on the older cars. Ultimately it's my family i'm driving around in the car.
When i got the car there was no way the MOT was kosher on it, but for £250 what did I expect :-?
Yes, after looking at the book, the requirement is that the check should still function as per normal. Which when the car is stationary it does.
I still think it's daft that the MOT doesn't require the road test anymore.
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The light behaves until you start to roll over 5mph then there seems to be a heavy power draw on the battery and both abs/tc lights come on.
Symptom of Altenator charging fault if I recall from other posts on here!
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:o the plot thickens - now I had my charging system checked 6 months ago and it was fine... apparently!
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Ignore the charging, its not likely.
Get the codes read.
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The ABS sounds like a wheel sensor. As it does a full rotation of the toothed wheel the light will come on if faulty sensor.
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I still think it's daft that the MOT doesn't require the road test anymore.
Why?
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Phat, that's what i'm hoping it is, the only wheel sensors I haven't chaged are the rears, the two front one's i've replaced... what fun that was!
KillerWatt, I suppose the driving of the vehicle also might identify other problems or higlight other issues that might not be readily apparent on the static tests.
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OK, so i've just got a call from the MOT centre, and they've read the faultcodes on the abs.
It turned out that the ABS motor in the modulator had seized, and with some jiggery pokery with the tech 2 they freed it. Apparently lots of black s**t came out, but it's working now, so i'm really pleased about that. Somehow it got contaminated in the past.
The fuel line is sorted, and the noise which I thought was a lifter is apparently a manifold stud snapped on the driver side cylinder bank >:(
THe biggest pain though is the headlamps, you see, the projector ones which I bought have turned out to have one (driver side) euro lamp as the beams kick to the offside. So I cleaned up my OEM lamps, polished them up and popped them in, and guess what, the adjusters are all broken and snapped >:(
Well, that was a quality spend when I could have just got a set of decent pattern projectors - still didn't have a crystal ball back then.
So the mission is, to get a decent working UK set of lamps with functional ::) adjusters - all that's neded to get the thing through the MOT.
After that, i'll decide if I can actually be arsed to keep the thing any more. With all the work i'v done, and the 3.0L cams i've got for it, it'll probably make a top project for someone to finish off... we'll see.
anyway... headlamps...
AGcars247 on fleabay has said 100 for a pair of pattern lamps
Eurocarparts 160 for the pair
Camberley autofactors 200 each!!
Vauxhall 198 each.
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Andy has a complete set of Xenons for £50 here
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1244378222/all
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thanks Zuffenhausen, but this time around I'd rather have a crappy set of chocolate pattern parts that I know works to get through the MOt than chance another set of duffers from a car that's being broken.
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The light behaves until you start to roll over 5mph then there seems to be a heavy power draw on the battery and both abs/tc lights come on.
Symptom of Altenator charging fault if I recall from other posts on here!
i'll second that :y
my abs/tc light used to come on when the engine was at low revs / coasting .
tried all sorts to fix it ....... abs sensors ...... even tyre pressures.
alternator melted last month............ changed it and fault never seen again :y :y
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oops ........... must type faster ;D ;D
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Have you checked the lever on the back of the headlights isn't set for Europe
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What Elite Pete said....even the top end headlights are adjustable for continental driving.
As far as the ABS is concerned, try disconnecting the pig-tails (the connecting plugs) and give them a good clean-this has worked for me on one occasion.
eddie
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Elite Pete, the headlamp european lever only flattens the beam, rather than change the actual kick on them, we tried with both, up and down, as it was the adjusters on the original and projector lamps were both trollied. :(
Eddie, the problem was actually the actuator motor which was stuck fast with contamination in the ABS modulator itself, the TECH2 highlighted the fault and the motor was actuated throught the computer until it freed up, loads of black poo came out!, but now it's right as rain.
I've just got back with it, and the only headache now is the snapped rear lower Exhaust manifold stud on the driver side cylinder bank, that's what the noise is and not the hydraulic lifters as I first thought, which also explains the power loss and sluggish acceleration.
I've got a set of pattern headlamps from (AGcars247 - 100 for a new pattern pair) on fleanbay arriving tommorrow so i'll fit those and then relevel and retest on those monday am.
My question to myself is this, do I do the manifold stud or just change the head, or alternatively do I just say sod it, and sell the car with that one fault (after i've put the new aircon condenser I have for it and regas).
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Don't touch DEPO headlamps they're shite. >:(