Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Jimbob on 22 May 2009, 20:18:38
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Got a 2nd hand gearbox waiting to go on.....
(waiting on me pulling my finger out mainly ;D )
had a little spare time tonight......So Dropped the small sump, fluid in very good condition and no thrust washer :)
Thats a good start anyway, cleaned up and back together, just got the big one to do now, then change the thrust washer.
Tempted to look at this brake band adjustment while I am at it :-/ Not 100% sure how though :(
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Another thing, although its 18 months since I last had a sump off, and my memory is a little hazy...
The gaskets (from Jpat) seem thicker and better quality than the ones I used last time (from the back of the ABS mag)
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always wondered how critical the level is on our boxs? If the gaskits are thicker then wont that drop the level hole a fraction? Like wise if no gaskit fitted and a sealent used, as mentioned on here before, will that raise the level hole? (level hole in side of sump, move the sump/ hole nearer or further from the box you move the level of the atf as well when filled)
Is it that critical? Checked the level on mine last week, as the changes seem different somehow, and a snap on reader showed a strange code, box was over filled! Half a litre or so but its not made any difference to the changes. Like i say, how critical is the level?
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Dropped the 2nd sump tonight, and changed the filter.
1 Snag
I cannot get the level plug out :'(
Wouldnt shift, had been plusgassed a few times
Eventually just started spinning in the hole >:(
Dropped and cleaned the sump, and the 'collar' the bolt comes through after the sump is just spinning.
Held it with mole grips, but still cant get it out, any ideas? and also what for the future, im guessing the collar is meant to be attached to the sump, is it needed?
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If the filler is fine on your original box, swap the sump pans over when your doing the exchange.
Simples.
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If the filler is fine on your original box, swap the sump pans over when your doing the exchange.
Simples.
Thats my worst case solution, As im only 'assisting' didnt really want to start taking the old one apart while im there
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If the filler is fine on your original box, swap the sump pans over when your doing the exchange.
Simples.
Thats my worst case solution, As im only 'assisting' didnt really want to start taking the old one apart while im there
It's only a handful of bolts, five minute job when the box is off.
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If the filler is fine on your original box, swap the sump pans over when your doing the exchange.
Simples.
Thats my worst case solution, As im only 'assisting' didnt really want to start taking the old one apart while im there
It's only a handful of bolts, five minute job when the box is off.
aye, dozen bolts, oil to drain, gasket to clean, sump to clean and refit.
Then 'old' one to put back on as im keeping the box
Dont really want the mess of it tbh.
Would rather buy an old sump if it comes to it.
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If the filler is fine on your original box, swap the sump pans over when your doing the exchange.
Simples.
Thats my worst case solution, As im only 'assisting' didnt really want to start taking the old one apart while im there
It's only a handful of bolts, five minute job when the box is off.
aye, dozen bolts, oil to drain, gasket to clean, sump to clean and refit.
Then 'old' one to put back on as im keeping the box
Dont really want the mess of it tbh.
Would rather buy an old sump if it comes to it.
A trip down the scrappy then, wear a big jacket. ;D
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Local scrappy would only supply a full box.
Dunno what the collar is made of, seems very hard metal (molegrips havent marked it) could it be reattached? welded / brazed?
I dont recall seeing it on my old sump, but is a long time since I saw it.
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If you can get it to me I could weld or braise it back on.
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These pics, from another site, show a large nut, mine is a small cylinder ?
http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/showthread.php?t=62232Pics]
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Cheers Mark, Ill see where I get with it, may well take you up on that, Thanks :D
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left the plug soaking in plusgas, so hoping to free the bugger tonight, then its thrust washer replacement time :D
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If you can get it to me I could weld or braise it back on.
That would only make it tender!! ;D ;D
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These pics, from another site, show a large nut, mine is a small cylinder ?
http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/showthread.php?t=62232Pics]
I can imagine there would have been variations during manufacture so either a plug or a cylinder fitment would have worked well
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right, progress :D
With the help of the gas hob, and some heat application, I got the old level plug out....Heat, then molegrips & socket.
This collar goes all the way through the filler hole, which it rotates in.
Is this fixable?
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa229/littlejimmym/misc%20car/IMG_0815_resize.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa229/littlejimmym/misc%20car/IMG_0816_resize.jpg)
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Hopefully gonna have a go at the thrust washer tonight!
Just gotta find a good way of securing the box upright ;D
(Mark, you think you can reattach that bit then? If so Ill get it in the post, cheers)
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I'm nor argueing with Sasanach's excellent looking guide....
But why does the box need to be vertical for this?
what would happen / go wrong if done on the horizontal?
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I'm nor argueing with Sasanach's excellent looking guide....
But why does the box need to be vertical for this?
what would happen / go wrong if done on the horizontal?
Well removing the front section I suspect will remove support for the input shaft....
And yes, reacon I can braise or weld that
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Excellent, also, can a box be rested on its 'end' for the duration of a thrust washer change, or does it need to be suspended?
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Should be ok 'on its end'!
Put something on the floor to protect the output shaft
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was gonna do it on a thick wad of newspaper, and possibly a ratchet strap around my large metal tool cabinet, sounds like that may be a go-er then :D
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if you leave the gearbox flat you run a very real risk of the front "addon"part of the gearbox detaching itself, and if that happens almost certainly you will break the paper gasket behind. you will regret it if it does :'(
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Fair enough, nice to know the reasons.
I follow advice, but nice to understand why.
Got a paper gasket with my jpat order anyway, just in case for the sake of 60p or whatever it was :y
It will be done vertically, hopefully tonight.
Then as soon as Mark can have a go at that level plug I can arrange the swap :D
Be nice to (hopefully) have a smooth box that doesnt drop out again :D
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the paper gasket that im refering to is between the front and rear sumps, major dis-assembly and special tools reqd to replace.lot of hassle
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Ahhh that makes real sense!
Think If I broke that one, I would be looking for another new box ;D
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I Think Im gonna leave that brake band reset alone.
Oil that was in this box doesnt look bad, and I dont trust my abilities not to make something worse, the procedure just looks too easy for me to get wrong. Best left alone I think
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I Think Im gonna leave that brake band reset alone.
Oil that was in this box doesnt look bad, and I dont trust my abilities not to make something worse, the procedure just looks too easy for me to get wrong. Best left alone I think
I dont know how you can get it wrong...it is SO easy!
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I Think Im gonna leave that brake band reset alone.
Oil that was in this box doesnt look bad, and I dont trust my abilities not to make something worse, the procedure just looks too easy for me to get wrong. Best left alone I think
I dont know how you can get it wrong...it is SO easy!
When the sump is removed there is a dome held on with 3 or 4 bolts. Remove it and there is a threaded screw with a lock nut, release it then tighten the screw to 5nm torque, back off five turns and then tighten the lock nut, this sets the brake band. Replace the dome then it`s a gearbox re-fill
Is what I have for this job....
Before getting onto the fact I havent got a torque wrench that low...
A torque (uber-low) and 5 turns sounds very easy to break up....
Or am I on the wrong path here?
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well thats the thrust washer done :D
Old one in perfect condition, but at least I know now :D :D :D
Easy enough job (providing it all works when on the car)
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I Think Im gonna leave that brake band reset alone.
Oil that was in this box doesnt look bad, and I dont trust my abilities not to make something worse, the procedure just looks too easy for me to get wrong. Best left alone I think
I dont know how you can get it wrong...it is SO easy!
When the sump is removed there is a dome held on with 3 or 4 bolts. Remove it and there is a threaded screw with a lock nut, release it then tighten the screw to 5nm torque, back off five turns and then tighten the lock nut, this sets the brake band. Replace the dome then it`s a gearbox re-fill
Is what I have for this job....
Before getting onto the fact I havent got a torque wrench that low...
A torque (uber-low) and 5 turns sounds very easy to break up....
Or am I on the wrong path here?
Correct.
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Ill leave that alone then ;)
Another thought occurs.....
I think the gearbox level plug, is the same as an oil sump plug...
of which there are 2 types, the old bolt with copper washer, torqued high
and the newer torx bold with rubber o-ring, torqued low.
Would it be worth using one of the newer o-ring sump bolts in the gearbox, to reduce stress on the fixed bit?
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do you have to remove both sumps to change the ATF then ? (sory if i sound thick)
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do you have to remove both sumps to change the ATF then ? (sory if i sound thick)
Yes, even removing both you dont get all the old fluid out.
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Huge Thanks to Mark for fixing the sump....after a small postage hold up >:(
Looks a cracking job, and appears to be stronger than it has ever been.
Just need to swap the boxes now and hope for the best :D