Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Vmax on 08 July 2009, 14:14:19
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Hello all, Just back from a local Vaux specialist. My car has been stalling when stopping at light or around slow corners. Cam sensor replaced genuine Vaux. Kevin Wood plugged his tech2 in a couple of days ago, got code 19 again, and cleaned the ICV, changed the vac pipes around on the reservoir and adjusted the thottles. Still no better. Vauk specialist says torque converter :o or, as the car had a rear ender last year, fuel sender? Any ideas folks as this is realy getting to be a real pain!! Next step I guess take it to Vaux ??
Ta, Dave. >:(
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Just fixed a problem like this on my 2.5 V6 by fitting a new ICV.
If the revs drop below 1000 rpm the engine just stopped,there were no codes but it appears the ICV was staying shut.
cbh
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Hello all, Just back from a local Vaux specialist. My car has been stalling when stopping at light or around slow corners. Cam sensor replaced genuine Vaux. Kevin Wood plugged his tech2 in a couple of days ago, got code 19 again, and cleaned the ICV, changed the vac pipes around on the reservoir and adjusted the thottles. Still no better. Vauk specialist says torque converter :o or, as the car had a rear ender last year, fuel sender? Any ideas folks as this is realy getting to be a real pain!! Next step I guess take it to Vaux ??
Ta, Dave. >:(
erm 19 is CRANK not CAM sensor?
typo? or have you replaced the wrong one?
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Yup typo thanks - crank sensor changed :y
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Just fixed a problem like this on my 2.5 V6 by fitting a new ICV.
If the revs drop below 1000 rpm the engine just stopped,there were no codes but it appears the ICV was staying shut.
cbh
Thanks, ICV is operating correctly... :y
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Crank sensor was replaced. :y
Throttle stop had been wound open, affecting idle control. Perhaps someone has been here before and tried to fix it?
ICV, EGR appear fine. It doesn't start as "crisply" as it should, IMHO. Needs 2 attempts some times. And it's still throwing 19s. My suspicion is that the new crank sensor is also kaputt but has anyone got any alternative suggestions?
Kevin
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Just found this, whilst poking about at the rear of the plennum. A rusty screw stuck in arubber pipe, any ideas folks?
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg181/Vmax_2008/OMEGA.jpg)
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yes that pipe should fit into a rubber elbow a beleive. Looks like its hanging down in the back ground of the pic. Or one very like it anyway. But that screw is wrong, whatever.
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Yep thats certainly wrong lol Looks like vac pipe...either the one thats meant to go into the back of the plenum (rear multiram??) or that fits into the brake servo pipe??
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The couple of "T" pieces by the brake servo were as they should be. Checked them when we Tech 2'd it. Multirams were working OK after we'd corrected incorrect plumbing of the vacuum reservoir.
Whereabouts is that T piece? can you follow the pipes to see where they go? Maybe it's the heater vacuum supply. Is the claimate behaving itself?
Kevin
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Thanks Kevin, I'll have a look later. Just tried climate, I don't use it very often, and it blows cold until I put it on High setting - it then blows hot?? :-? I think I will go and find a large skip!! >:( >:(
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:-/ Car is now un-driveable. I m going to have a proper look at the weekend. I don't realy know what I'm looking for so - Any last minute ideas folks? Could it be MAF duff ? :-/ :y
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:-/ Car is now un-driveable. I m going to have a proper look at the weekend. I don't realy know what I'm looking for so - Any last minute ideas folks? Could it be MAF duff ? :-/ :y
Possible, do you have a maf code via paper clip test?
Try unplugging it? But as im sure TB tell you, mafs rarely fail on early v engines. If you have no codes would suspect tick over valve but Kevin has already tried cleaning that. Although my old car took several cleans before it settled down. Make sure the valve is clear and not chipped with a screw driver, people like to see if it moves and stick something in there causing damage. Like i did once, shhhh!
A theory! If the tick over valve was removed and the plenum hole plugged to be air tight. Then adjust(if possible) the throttle/cable to give tick over and the car stayed running enough to keep it from stalling, would that prove or dis prove the icv as faulty, or not? I realise that bodgieing the throttle is a no no, but would it help diagnose icv?Discuss....?
Having said that if your still getting 19 then would still suggest crank sensor. Is the plug/wiring/connection good a the plenum end? Switch cleaner?......another sensor?
Havent re read the whole post so if this is covering old ground please ignore.
Edited for spelling and to say, if the icv was removed but still electricaly connected you may be able to see it moving, may help? Obviously plug the hole and make sure the plug does not get sucked in and eaten by the engine, that would be bad.
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Thanks Chris, I think I will change the crank sensor again! and try and see where that rubber pipe, with the screw in it, is supposed to be plumbed. ICV is spottless and moving freely.... :-/
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Live data from the MAF looked OK when we had the Tech 2 on it.
I would try another crank sensor, personally. It's still throwing code 19s which is a sure indication that the crank sensor is not happy.
Kevin
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MAFs do fail on early V6's if my 97 qualifies as early. My car kept stalling on a trailing throttle and approaching roundabouts etc. damned awkward in an auto.
It was the MAF. Bought a S/H one off the forum and it too didn't work on the car. Bought a new pattern one for about £38 off Ebay and car works fine. While I waited for it to turn up I drove it with the MAF plug disconnected or connected but in Sport mode. Worth trying it disconnected - easy job.
V
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Right - just took the plennum off and the pipe with the screw in it appears to have a piece of vac pipe missing. just above my finger, in the picture you can see a silver self tapping screw which is blocking a hole in a pipe running to the brake servo? I assume this is where the piece off missing pipe is supposed to go? Why would someone remove this??? :-/
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Anyone??
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Any Ideas on the disconnected pipe mentioned above?? :-/
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I can only assume that it's the feed to the heater controls reservoir. All engine vacuum devices (multirams and SAI) were OK when we checked it over. TBH, I don't believe this is contributing to the stalling issue, although it's certainly something that needs to be investigated. :-/
Kevin
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Ok ta Kevin. Off to Vaux tomorrow to try and get an exchange Crank Sensor.. :( :y
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Still no joy, despite four different mechanics having a go! so i've booked it into Vaux next Wednesday. I hope they find the fault quickly though at £80 per hour!! :o :o :o
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Have you tried a new crank sensor?
Kevin
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Might also be worth trying blanking off the EGR valve, thinking about it. It appeared to be working normally when Tech 2'd but if it's sticking open it might cause stalling.
Kevin
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Thanks Kevin, I have recently changed it over for a "known working one" off another car - No change :-/ :y
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Thanks Kevin, I have recently changed it over for a "known working one" off another car - No change :-/ :y
Although you say known working one, have you put that back on the original car it came off and tried starting. Only reason I say that is if it was the original one it could have been damage in the transitional stage. Did you try another paper clip test with the known good one in.