Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: cyberfarmer on 10 May 2007, 15:45:17
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Hi to all!
I have lost hope way back last year regarding my tranny problems on my
Opel Omega 2.5 Cdx Wagon and after rebuilding it, the omega ran well
just for a month after which hell broke loose! Since then early-06 the
car suffered a lot and to date the car is still at the yard yet to be
RESURRECTED!!
To give you a brief background on the history of the omega here in the
Philippines would entail a lot of bad memories and yes, costly
repairs. In fact GM Philippines phased-out their Opel line and the
last to sell was the Zafira re badged as GM Zafira just to re polish
their image here. Now,Opel cars here are undervalued and nobody gives
a shit about them at all because of their unreliability and no after
sales service. As a trivia Opel Omegas here costs $5000 only. A lot of
small sized shops opened saying that they can rebuild or fix Opels and
yet they still need luck on their side.
Don't get me wrong my friends about the qualms and complains about the
Opel but Im strongly determined to fix mine because I know its still a
good car (when running in good condition like i could remember when it
was spanking new.) My project now is on how to bulletproof the engine
from repairs and problems and to convert it to a performance GT.
Here are the major common problems found on my opel omega (x25xe,
4L30-e tranny):
1. Engine - Overheating problems caused by:
a. clogged (reddish to brown water color) to blowing radiator plastic
housings.
b. water and oil mixture
c. thermostat opening at 115 degrees for aux fan to start
2. Auto Transmission
a. when in D (drive) and approaches 2 or 3 gear it stalls as if there
was no gear in tack and suddenly up-shifts.
b. AUTO TRANNY shows up in the info display screen and engine check
lights up
c. when resetting car (switch off engine and on) everything comes to
normal
To add on, the a/c system, plastic and rubber parts cant withstand the
tropical climate/heat in w/c some pulverizes to bits and pieces
moreover the electrics and other components are complicated to fix.
Currently, the engine is stripped down except for the block and
pistons. I removed the cylinder head to check if there was warp due to
the overheating fortunately there is none. I also converted the
radiator assembly to a two-core (double row) unit. I haven't bought
the gaskets necessary since i have no idea regarding brand, type etc.
As for the tranny, i had somebody rebuilt it and as far as i know he
used the necessary repair kit for it and fabricted this plastic/cork
type flange to copper since it was destroyed to pieces and was not
included in the repair kit.
Now, i am planning to rebuild it by next week to set forth in
fulfilling my GT plans. I would like to ask help in order to rebuild
or modify the engine right and to make it suitable for the tropical weather here.
I have read all the part nos you supplied but im wondering what the cylinder
head gasket part no is and are there replacement parts (what brand etc).
Im thinking since all is removed, i would like to replace all the necessary
servicable parts to new ones just to be confident and sure of the rebuild.
Also, I would like to know the alternative methods regarding the transmission,
if its possible to convert it to manual transmission, if are there other auto trannys
that can fit the engine, etc.
I hope you guys can help me fulfill my project. This would help a lot of unsatisfied
and hopeless owners here. Thanks so much. More sucess to the group.
Alex
Philippines
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The 4L30 isn't common here in UK, so not sure I can offer much help, other than as a minimum a atf change.
The brown coolant is a sign that the coolant has been neglected badly, this may explain the overheating. Despite the heat, you still need a 50:50 mix of antifreeze, as the antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors...
I'm sure someone will be along shortly to offer more help
:)
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The 4L30 gearboxes have a few models notably the AR25 and AR35!
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Gearbox, change the fluid Dexron III, also clean the selector switch
Parts, mail order from the UK or Germany.
Mark will be along later
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The 4L30 gearboxes have a few models notably the AR25 and AR35!
Ah, what am I thinking of then... ...sure Tech2 has option of AR25/AR35 and another option. Thought it was 4L30, but maybe a 5 speed variant instead...
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The 4L30 gearboxes have a few models notably the AR25 and AR35!
Ah, what am I thinking of then... ...sure Tech2 has option of AR25/AR35 and another option. Thought it was 4L30, but maybe a 5 speed variant instead...
AR25/AR35 is used on what vehicle?
I really appreciate all the tech help your giving out guys!
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The 4L30 gearboxes have a few models notably the AR25 and AR35!
Ah, what am I thinking of then... ...sure Tech2 has option of AR25/AR35 and another option. Thought it was 4L30, but maybe a 5 speed variant instead...
AR25/AR35 is used on what vehicle?
I really appreciate all the tech help your giving out guys!
Here, the 4 speed autos are either AR25 (all except 3.0l and 3.2l) and AR35 (3.0/3.2).
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the AR25/35 are 4L30's.....thats the Gm designation for that range of boxes......
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the AR25/35 are 4L30's.....thats the Gm designation for that range of boxes......
Slightly off topic, but related, why bother with AR25? Is it purely due to cost over the stronger AR35?
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Cost and ratios I suspect........
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Ty for the tranny suggestions..maybe ill rebuild the engine 1st then go to the tranny. As earlier mentioned, the block is the only item sitting in the engine bay. I have checked the cylinder heads and its good that it didnt warp. I have to purchase new cylinder head gaskets but the dealer here cant seem to find the part no! Wat else do i have to consider replacing? thanks guys
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Its worth contacting one of the uk suppliers of gasket kits, they might be happy to ship to you...., try this one (i have used them in ther past).
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-SINTRA-SAAB-9000-3-0-V6-HEAD-GASKET-SET_W0QQitemZ110006812479QQihZ001QQcategoryZ10404QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Start with the engine......then look at the box...if you get bored drop the front sump off the box and check for debris.....
The V6 heads VERY rarely warp unless seriously cooked....
Also, use genuine exhaust manifold gaskets as they are considerably better than the composite ones in the kits.....
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Hi Mark!
Thanks for advice, already ordered the gasket kit. Is there a thermostat that can open at a lower temp? Also, are there some components that you can bypass or remove just to make things a lot simpler or maybe suitable for the climate here (normal 32 deg)?
Thanks again
ALex
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Alex,
I'm not sure why you want a stat that opens at a lower temp? If you car is overheating IMHO that is not going to fix it. It will just open fully sooner as the engine warms up.
We have 32 degrees sometimes here too (mercifully only occassionally) and the car should be able to manage it , although granted you likely have high humidity too - I'm not sure what difference this might make. So you may have a problem elsewhere.
Once the stat is fully open , its open, regardless of what temp it opened at.
You can try flushing the rad thoroughly - removing it, inverting it etc. Presumably your fan is coming on? and indeed you may have a problem with your current stat stuck such that its not opening fully.
I don't know if its possible to get a bigger rad if need be, but I think you need to get the cooling system working as it should before considering mods.
Good Luck
Ian
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Yeah i guess youre right Ian. Ill rebuild the engine first then lets see afterwards. Thanks again
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Its worth contacting one of the uk suppliers of gasket kits, they might be happy to ship to you...., try this one (i have used them in ther past).
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-SINTRA-SAAB-9000-3-0-V6-HEAD-GASKET-SET_W0QQitemZ110006812479QQihZ001QQcategoryZ10404QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Start with the engine......then look at the box...if you get bored drop the front sump off the box and check for debris.....
The V6 heads VERY rarely warp unless seriously cooked....
Also, use genuine exhaust manifold gaskets as they are considerably better than the composite ones in the kits.....
Also, use genuine VX cam cover gaskets too... cheapo ones don't last 300 miles... expensive but cost effective....
Dave C
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Plus....check the two 20A fuses in the ECU box are ok......
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Hi everyone!! Hope everything is good. Its been two long years since I posted regarding my omega problem and sadly its been the same.
I really haven't had time to rebuild the engine because I was hesitant to do so since the market value of the omega as well as all opels dropped off significantly and rebuilding the engine was more expensive than buying a used omega nevertheless I am now persuaded to start of the project again and bring it back to its glory days.
My fear now is that I am quite lost with the rebuilding process since all of the parts are disassembled except for the block and pistons. I don't have any access to factory manuals here as well. I humbly ask for tips and advice before I start to rebuild the engine. Also, is there a possible way to simplify the engine system hoping to make it more reliable like removing egr etc since we have more liberal motoring laws here.
Thank you very much and hoping for your help.
Alex
Philippines