Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Pitchfork on 02 September 2009, 13:04:28
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Mine's permanently locked up
I have taken it off to see what happens (it's a lot quieter now)
Now a feint recollection of someone on the forum having rescued a coupling by heating it, in case I have overheating problems as a result of its' removal
Can anyone remember how it was done because the chances of buying a new one that has been correctly stored (vertically) is extremely remote?
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Funny you mention the viscous ........
I had mine off yesterday, and used my new Bernzomatic blow lamp to gently apply heat radially to the metal centre hub.
Even at 100 on the gauge mine's yet to 'lock-up'.
Off to Newent with the caravan in tow tomorrow, and there's one very testing climb en-route, a great chance to test this theory.
Will report back ...... !
PS: The Bernzomatic is well worth the money - using MAPP gas, it'll easily warm 1/2" steel rods for bending.
Purchased on Marks DTM's recommendation!
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Funny you mention the viscous ........
I had mine off yesterday, and used my new Bernzomatic blow lamp to gently apply heat radially to the metal centre hub.
Even at 100 on the gauge mine's yet to 'lock-up'.
Off to Newent with the caravan in tow tomorrow, and there's one very testing climb en-route, a great chance to test this theory.
Will report back ...... !
PS: The Bernzomatic is well worth the money - using MAPP gas, it'll easily warm 1/2" steel rods for bending.
Purchased on Marks DTM's recommendation!
Then you have the opposite problem from me
I was going to use a Hot-Air gun if there is a way of resurrecting them
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IIRC TheBoy ran his tractor without the entire viscous fan assembly with no problems and declared it superfluous (in our climate, at least).
Might as well bin it and do without the noise IMHO. If you do need more cooling add another electric fan.
Kevin
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IIRC TheBoy ran his tractor without the entire viscous fan assembly with no problems and declared it superfluous (in our climate, at least).
Might as well bin it and do without the noise IMHO. If you do need more cooling add another electric fan.
Kevin
A valid point Kev, but, there is simply not the room to fit a further fan.
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IIRC TheBoy ran his tractor without the entire viscous fan assembly with no problems and declared it superfluous (in our climate, at least).
Might as well bin it and do without the noise IMHO. If you do need more cooling add another electric fan.
Kevin
My viscous fan is tucked in with my spare wheel, and has been for the last 2 months. Tubby Denzils need to be above a certain temp for optimum operation. Most viscous fans, even spinning away un-locked, simply slow down the speed at which that temperature is reached.
I did kinda like the "Whoosh" sound it made though. ::)
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IIRC TheBoy ran his tractor without the entire viscous fan assembly with no problems and declared it superfluous (in our climate, at least).
Might as well bin it and do without the noise IMHO. If you do need more cooling add another electric fan.
Kevin
A valid point Kev, but, there is simply not the room to fit a further fan.
If room for viscous, there is room for leccy ;)
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With the Viscous the 'normal' temp was 92.5, without it so far it's been 95
I need to see what temperature is reached when it's under strain, pulling a heavy weight up a long gradient before I make a commitment to 'bin' it
I think TBs Traktor may have been the exception to the rule, mine's done 150K now & the cooling system has never been scoured out
There are already 2 electric fans so no room for a 3rd as Sethsmate says
If TBs was not an exception then he must have sold his soul one night at the nearest crossroads
Is there anyone out there who knows how to rejuvinate a Viscous Coupling??
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With the Viscous the 'normal' temp was 92.5, without it so far it's been 95
I need to see what temperature is reached when it's under strain, pulling a heavy weight up a long gradient before I make a commitment to 'bin' it
I think TBs Traktor may have been the exception to the rule, mine's done 150K now & the cooling system has never been scoured out
There are already 2 electric fans so no room for a 3rd as Sethsmate says
If TBs was not an exception then he must have sold his soul one night at the nearest crossroads
Is there anyone out there who knows how to rejuvinate a Viscous Coupling??
95C is a better running temp for tractor, stat is pretty much fully open, and the front fans (and more importantly, the intercooler fan) are on at 96C
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Normal running on mine is around 92 on the gauge. Show it a good climb, and it'll rise to the 100 mark, but once over the top, then it'll quickly return to 92.
Last year: New rad, 'stat, and water pump made little difference, even with both electric fans running.
This week: Oil flush with Forte (as per instructions), then engine oil/filter, plus air and fuel filters changed. Cooling system totally drained and flushed with Forte (as per instructions). Gave it an 'Italian Tune-up' before draining again. 'Stat and water pump removed, and engine 'back-flushed' with hose - no debris (bits of old impellers etc) apparent. Added Forte cooling system conditioner, plus 5 litres of Vx pink antifreeze. Whilst the viscous was off, I gently warmed the hub radially, to see if it'll now 'kick in' as the temp rises.
Off to Newent in morning, so we'll see what happens temp-wise on the climb up from Monmouth towards Symonds Yat with the caravan in tow.
I'll duly report back on our return ...... !
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as said, i reckon viscous overcools when engine doesn't need cooling, and does sod all when it does
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I got a new viscous fan hub from German and Swedish for about £30quid. Same as BMW 325 TDS
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I got a new viscous fan hub from German and Swedish for about £30quid. Same as BMW 325 TDS
Did it function?
Apparently they have to be stored vertically - what parts dept or Carrier does this?
Laying it flat causes it to go wrong
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Whilst the viscous was off, I gently warmed the hub radially, to see if it'll now 'kick in' as the temp rises.
I still don't fully understand what you mean by kicking in? The fan is always spinning in my experience - I don't see how its behaviour is altered by engine temperature? (I might well have got this around my neck :-/)
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cohesive over cools if engine doesn't charge cooling, and does sod all if it does
________________
Furnace filter (http://www.iaqsource.com/furnace_filters.php )
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Whilst the viscous was off, I gently warmed the hub radially, to see if it'll now 'kick in' as the temp rises.
I still don't fully understand what you mean by kicking in? The fan is always spinning in my experience - I don't see how its behaviour is altered by engine temperature? (I might well have got this around my neck :-/)
Viscous couplings are designed to become more viscous as temperature rises, so whilst the fan always spins to some degree, the coupling with the engine gets more "rigid" as it heats up, hence more cooling. Or so the theory goes...
Kevin
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Normal running on mine is around 92 on the gauge. Show it a good climb, and it'll rise to the 100 mark, but once over the top, then it'll quickly return to 92.
Last year: New rad, 'stat, and water pump made little difference, even with both electric fans running.
This week: Oil flush with Forte (as per instructions), then engine oil/filter, plus air and fuel filters changed. Cooling system totally drained and flushed with Forte (as per instructions). Gave it an 'Italian Tune-up' before draining again. 'Stat and water pump removed, and engine 'back-flushed' with hose - no debris (bits of old impellers etc) apparent. Added Forte cooling system conditioner, plus 5 litres of Vx pink antifreeze. Whilst the viscous was off, I gently warmed the hub radially, to see if it'll now 'kick in' as the temp rises.
Off to Newent in morning, so we'll see what happens temp-wise on the climb up from Monmouth towards Symonds Yat with the caravan in tow.
I'll duly report back on our return ...... !
Well, back from Newent, and all my efforts seem to have been in vain .......
Although the tractor ran superbly and with it's usual 'grunt', the temp gauge still hit the 100 mark on the aforementioned climb, and yes, once over the top it quickly returned to the 92 mark.
Courtesy of Hotel 21 and Kev Wood, their Tech2 expertise confirmed that there's no real problem with the temp gauge and associated circuitry, so there you have it fellow tractor-owning OOFers!
However, I've one further trick up my sleeve .......
Will report back on my findings once I return from the next Sethsmate vacation!
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Hello!
Normal running on mine is around 92 on the gauge. Show it a good climb, and it'll rise to the 100 mark, but once over the top, then it'll quickly return to 92.
Last year: New rad, 'stat, and water pump made little difference, even with both electric fans running.
Exactly!
As some of you may know I tried very hard to get rid of the viscous fan assy but although my radiator wasn't stilted or anything, I couldn't go up steep slopes without engine temp going up above 100°C, no matter what.
New coolant, new thermostat, new pump, nothing worked. It just isn't safe nor reasonable to do without.
I guess Opel made a mistake in designing their aircon radiators whose holes are too small to let the flux of air go through, not to mention the fact that after a few years' use, it is literally filled with dead bugs and mud.
All I could find to get rid of the annoying reactor noise was to get the engine run at 3000 rpm once or twice to disengage the fan. Not nice. BMW keep telling me their clutches are okay.... for 325s and 525s maybe!
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After viewing many Viscous fan threads - I don't think anyone is able to say conclusively whether it is OK to remove it or not. We have people whose cars depend on them (as above) and others (mine, Ex-TB's) whose will run happily without them.
If your car runs hot then you need to use it, if your car runs cold (as mine used to) then it can be ditched quite happily. It seems that the deciding factor in all cars is related to past cooling system and engine servicing. This can usually be rectified through a period of "over-servicing", but is not always effective :y
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This engine was also fitted in certain Land/Range Rovers - with similar cooling-system problems being encountered!
As soon as I can find the time, I'm going to remove the air-con rad on mine, to see if a 'totally exposed' main rad works any better. Besides never using air-con, this system doesn't work anyway!
Gotta be worth a go, I reckon ........
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My first ever TD auto est CD 94model. I ran from 40k to 185K mls over seven years. sat at 92 & never went above 95 ever, even towing up inclines. Retired eventually due to no hot start prob, It had no aircon!!!!
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Whilst the viscous was off, I gently warmed the hub radially, to see if it'll now 'kick in' as the temp rises.
I still don't fully understand what you mean by kicking in? The fan is always spinning in my experience - I don't see how its behaviour is altered by engine temperature? (I might well have got this around my neck :-/)
Correct operation is it 'freewheels' until it hits a predefined temp, then locks up. So a bit like electric fan and thermostat, only far less reliable ;D
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If you see 100DegC on rare steep climbs then thats no major issue........on every day driving its more of an issue.
If its only a corner case then the system is working fine.
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Modified Temp figures . I was looking at the guage today
My first ever TD auto est CD 94model. I ran from 40k to 185K mls over seven years. sat at bottom of scale & never went above 90 ever, even towing up inclines. Retired eventually due to no hot start prob, It had no aircon!!!!
And the viscous worked.