Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 08 December 2007, 10:52:26
-
It would appear my wheel locking nut remover has been lost. So if I get a flat, I'm beggared.
Can they be obtained anywhere?
-
It would appear my wheel locking nut remover has been lost. So if I get a flat, I'm beggared.
Can they be obtained anywhere?
Vauxhall if you happen to still have the code. More likely to have succes at a local ATS/Kwik Fit/etc who will probably have a set of these (http://i17.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/a4/84/7e6d_1.JPG) clicky (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-4-PIECE-LOCKING-WHEEL-NUT-REMOVAL-SET-89766_W0QQitemZ310004767349QQihZ021QQcategoryZ633QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) They work on a similar principle to EZ out stud extractors
-
Been there, done that :'(
Got through two keys and still had to drill two of the bolts off. :( Must have been put on by the Incredible Hulk and a 200Psi air gun!
There's usually a little black box in the cubby hole on the right of the boot, it should have the serial number to order a new key printed on a card if genuine VX.
-
My local Kwik Fit were as helpful as a chocolate teapot when I had an issue. I hammered an old 17mm socket onto each nut using sammy. Job done!
I'll have a good search of the garage this weekend, James :y
Kevin
-
Been there, done that :'(
Got through two keys and still had to drill two of the bolts off. :( Must have been put on by the Incredible Hulk and a 200Psi air gun!
There's usually a little black box in the cubby hole on the right of the boot, it should have the serial number to order a new key printed on a card if genuine VX.
If you get a new set from Vauxhall they've changed the design. The 3 pins on the 'key' have gone (by design! ;)) & you get a cake cutter type now - much better set up & they're not too expensive.
-
Nearly bust a b0ll0ck myself trying to get my nut's off a year ago, they were nut's that I'd torqued up properly too! When I got them off I refitted with a very slight amount of copper slip on each thread... I'm sure I'll get blown out of the water for this, as there is potential for them to come undone....
Had to let a little common sense prevail...
DC
-
Nearly bust a b0ll0ck myself trying to get my nut's off a year ago, they were nut's that I'd torqued up properly too! When I got them off I refitted with a very slight amount of copper slip on each thread... I'm sure I'll get blown out of the water for this, as there is potential for them to come undone....
Had to let a little common sense prevail...
DC
It's what I do too, but really the copper slip should just go on to the tapered seat of the bolt. I also put a smear on the mating faces of the wheel/hub too. The alloys on SWMBO's car were firmly attached to the car & put up a fight to stay put when I first tried to remove its wheels.
-
Nearly bust a b0ll0ck myself trying to get my nut's off a year ago, they were nut's that I'd torqued up properly too! When I got them off I refitted with a very slight amount of copper slip on each thread... I'm sure I'll get blown out of the water for this, as there is potential for them to come undone....
Had to let a little common sense prevail...
DC
pun intended?? ;D
-
Been there, done that :'(
Got through two keys and still had to drill two of the bolts off. :( Must have been put on by the Incredible Hulk and a 200Psi air gun!
There's usually a little black box in the cubby hole on the right of the boot, it should have the serial number to order a new key printed on a card if genuine VX.
If you get a new set from Vauxhall they've changed the design. The 3 pins on the 'key' have gone (by design! ;)) & you get a cake cutter type now - much better set up & they're not too expensive.
These were the later type!
Got another set on now and all the bolts are torqued up correctly with a smear of copper ease on - I know your not supposed to but it's the lesser of two evils.
-
an issue i had a few years ago....
I ended up tightening up the other bolts a bit tighter than normal, i then hammered on a socket and removed the locking wheel bolt....came off a treat
-
I use copper slip on threads and taper but tighten an extra 10Nm.....
-
There was a locking wheel nut removal nut in a plastic box in the right hand boot compartment James, NOT a Vx one though.
-
Ive got to drill the one of the locking wheel nuts on the project MV6 :(
-
Ive got to drill the one of the locking wheel nuts on the project MV6 :(
Just buy these
http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=3328&af=1792
-
Ive got to drill the one of the locking wheel nuts on the project MV6 :(
Just buy these
http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=3328&af=1792
Dont think they will work Steve, the wheel nuts are the ones with the rotating ring :(
-
Ive got to drill the one of the locking wheel nuts on the project MV6 :(
Just buy these
http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=3328&af=1792
Dont think they will work Steve, the wheel nuts are the ones with the rotating ring :(
Ahhhh....... :-/
-
There was a locking wheel nut removal nut in a plastic box in the right hand boot compartment James, NOT a Vx one though.
Aye - I lost it in Kevin's garage somewhere ;D
-
I've had a good look. Nothing found :'(
It's lurking somewhere, I'm sure.
Kevin
-
Nearly bust a b0ll0ck myself trying to get my nut's off a year ago, they were nut's that I'd torqued up properly too! When I got them off I refitted with a very slight amount of copper slip on each thread... I'm sure I'll get blown out of the water for this, as there is potential for them to come undone....
Had to let a little common sense prevail...
DC
You should try frequenting some of the night clubs around here and you will find that you won't have that problem ::)
-
Ive got to drill the one of the locking wheel nuts on the project MV6 :(
Just buy these
http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=3328&af=1792
Dont think they will work Steve, the wheel nuts are the ones with the rotating ring :(
A small chisel down first to remove the rotating ring depending on clearance and guts! :-/
Not sure I have the correct image of your locking set but if its the ones with three holes then they were used across the motor trade and many main dealers have a master set comprising of the 50 different combinations, then they can order you a replacement.
-
I use copper slip on threads and taper but tighten an extra 10Nm.....
Interesting point, standard torquing guidance would have you do this for the normal bolts. The locking bolts had to be changed on the wife's Focus due to a lost key and on them being fitted at the garage the fitter informed me that Ford had downrated the torque on the locking bolts due to the drive mechanism (cake cutter (?)) not being as strong as the hex on the other bolts. That being the case then copper slip and standard torque would be okay.
Thoughts?
Steve
-
AFAIK if you lubricate the thread in ANY way you change the pre-tension value (usually you increase it .. ie overtorque) .. if you wish to lubricate threads you should reduce the applied torque by a factor to compensate for this ..
Simple guides here .. there are others .. far more complicated !
http://www.norbar.com/content/cms/TorqueValueGuide.pdf
http://7faq.com/owbase/ow.asp?GoodEngineeringPractice%2FTorqueWrenches
:)
-
I've had a good look. Nothing found :'(
It's lurking somewhere, I'm sure.
Kevin
It's fine Kev - no longer needed, as they are off :y