Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Edd on 20 November 2009, 19:59:23
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Hi there
Can anyone direct me to a step by step change guide for the alternator on my car. it is the v6 with air con 2002 model. I believe this the fault as i can charge the battery, put it into the car and after about 6 miles of driving the warning lights all start to come on. When i try to start it again it just clicks. When i get it started at 2000 rpm im only getting 10v at the battery.
Also is it possible the battery may be knackered instead of the alternator bringing the voltage down to 10v?
Cheers in advance
Edd
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Hi there
Can anyone direct me to a step by step change guide for the alternator on my car. it is the v6 with air con 2002 model. I believe this the fault as i can charge the battery, put it into the car and after about 6 miles of driving the warning lights all start to come on. When i try to start it again it just clicks. When i get it started at 2000 rpm im only getting 10v at the battery.
Also is it possible the battery may be knackered instead of the alternator bringing the voltage down to 10v?
Cheers in advance
Edd
Well, the voltage should be more than 10V even if the alternator was outputing zero!
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Hi Edd, does sound like alternator. (I assume that you have the ignition light on permanently whilst engine running and that you have checked auxilliary belt ok)
I changed mine last year, but I never did a guide as there didn't seem to be much interest. Also, whilst i was wrestling with the job I didn't manage to take any pictures.
The sequence I used (from memory) was something like:
Disconnect battery. (If you do this within 10 seconds of ignition off it stops the alarm sounding!)
Unbolt bagpipes and carefully lift up on to plenum (leaving all vacuum pipes etc connected). Having carefully noted the route for the auxilliary belt, remove from the alternator pulley. (Use a socket on the tensioner to remove tension).
Jack up front of car and safely secure on axle stands
Remove sump guard/cover
Working from below, (use every spanner/socket/bendy extension in the toolbox trying to gain access >:() undo the bolts securing the alternator.
Once the alternator is free, and working from above the engine, move and tilt alternator forward and remove electrical connections and finally pull unit forward and up to remove.
Refitting is, as they say, reversal of the removal instructions. On a final note, It was so difficult to get at the rear nut that I 'super glued' it to the rear mounting lug off the alternator. The glue held long enough to get the bolt started and made the job much easier.
The job was not technically difficult but was extremely difficult because of poor access to the lower rear nut as the engine mount was in the way.
Hope this is of some use to you. Hope it goes well for you
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Hi Edd, does sound like alternator. (I assume that you have the ignition light on permanently whilst engine running and that you have checked auxilliary belt ok)
I changed mine last year, but I never did a guide as there didn't seem to be much interest. Also, whilst i was wrestling with the job I didn't manage to take any pictures.
The sequence I used (from memory) was something like:
Disconnect battery. (If you do this within 10 seconds of ignition off it stops the alarm sounding!)
Unbolt bagpipes and carefully lift up on to plenum (leaving all vacuum pipes etc connected). Having carefully noted the route for the auxilliary belt, remove from the alternator pulley. (Use a socket on the tensioner to remove tension).
Jack up front of car and safely secure on axle stands
Remove sump guard/cover
Working from below, (use every spanner/socket/bendy extension in the toolbox trying to gain access >:() undo the bolts securing the alternator.
Once the alternator is free, and working from above the engine, move and tilt alternator forward and remove electrical connections and finally pull unit forward and up to remove.
Refitting is, as they say, reversal of the removal instructions. On a final note, It was so difficult to get at the rear nut that I 'super glued' it to the rear mounting lug off the alternator. The glue held long enough to get the bolt started and made the job much easier.
The job was not technically difficult but was extremely difficult because of poor access to the lower rear nut as the engine mount was in the way.
Hope this is of some use to you. Hope it goes well for you
Thanks, looks like my saturday is busy. I will give is a go, new alternator on the bay for 76 quid gulp.
poxy cars, i hate em.
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Ed, if you have 10V on a battery with the engine revving, then you have more than just an alternator issue!
No need to do anything from underneath when changing the alternator....where are you?
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Ed, if you have 10V on a battery with the engine revving, then you have more than just an alternator issue!
No need to do anything from underneath when changing the alternator....where are you?
Hi the voltage is after the car has got the warning lights come on it happened all of a sudden, first the battery light then all the others.
I am in essex near lakeside.
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Ed, if you have 10V on a battery with the engine revving, then you have more than just an alternator issue!
No need to do anything from underneath when changing the alternator....where are you?
Hi the voltage is after the car has got the warning lights come on it happened all of a sudden, first the battery light then all the others.
I am in essex near lakeside.
Ok, so what is the battery voltage when fully charged?
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Wouldn't it be better to take your car to a motor factors first and ask them to do a heavy discharge test on the battery just to make sure it's not a wrecked battery.
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Ed, if you have 10V on a battery with the engine revving, then you have more than just an alternator issue!
No need to do anything from underneath when changing the alternator....where are you?
Hi the voltage is after the car has got the warning lights come on it happened all of a sudden, first the battery light then all the others.
I am in essex near lakeside.
Ok, so what is the battery voltage when fully charged?
Ill put it on charge tonight and test it in the morning.
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Very good....also, contact somebody breaking on here for an alternator
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Will do, thank you. Out of interest what else could be wrong here.
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Check the battery connections well particularly where the wire is crimped into the terminal
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thanks will check everything tomorrow
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I just changed my Alternator last night, not too hard but awkward getting onto that top back nut.
You'll need a 14 m spanner, a E14 Torx socket and nimble fingers!
I'd be interested hear what tecnique you use Mark if you dont do it from underneath the car?
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Ok well the readings are as follows
Pre fit 12.5v
fitted 12.4v
Run Idle 11.6v
Run 2000 11.6v
Also the alternator looks to be covered in oil so i have a problem there and obviously that could have caused the initial problem.
So now i need to look at getting it out
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Covered in oil is not a good start. I had a 405 where the power steering pump seeped fluid onto the alternator which soon led to a flat battery. Good news was that after a clean up of the brushes etc it was charging good as new. Pump was fixed on the cheap as well with some 'liquid metal' or whatever its called.
steve
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Ok ive changed the alternator, the poxy top nut was a sod but at least its done now and all appears to work ok now. 14v at the battery now and got the alternator at the breakers for £40.
Thanks everyone for your help
Edd
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Edd, from the voltages the alternator is not producing any output so you need a replacement or overhaul yours (there is a guide on fixing the common problems in the maintainance section).
Also I suspect the battery is on its last legs if you had fully charged it overnight (depends on the quality of your charger). With a working alternator you should see 14V when charging.