Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Essex Pete on 19 January 2010, 12:27:13
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I have posted up before about some of the problems with my 2.5TD, i.e poor mpg, then it breaking down on me.
I am finding that it is getting difficult to start when it has warmed up. Also the mpg figures seem poor. The OBC tells em that i am getting 27.5 Avg, but on my calculations of 477 miles to 62 litres works out at 34.5mpg. i managed to do 477 miles on this tank, but the OBC was telling me i have 60 miles remaining, but the car kept cutting out on me.
I dont know what is going on with this poxy car. When i first got it it ran like a dream, but now it all seems to be going wrong.
Do i have a case of a failing fuel pump? I have had all the lifter pump out of the tank and it all worked properly. I cant see why it would be cutting out unless it was really empty, in which case my fuel sender has decided to play up.
Does any one have a suggestion of what i need to look for because im starting to loose the will with this car
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Ever since have had my mig, I have never been able to rely on the last 10 litres of the tank, unfortunately learnt the hard way, when the engine dies with about 8 litres left... So it may just be that you need to be deducting the final few miles off your range. Not a solution I'm afraid, just the possibility of having to deal with an acceptance...
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From what i have read quite a few 2.5td owners have to do this. What annoys me is when i first bought the car i ran it right down until the OBC was showing just 11 miles remaining. This has all happened int he last 2 months. typical, all was good during the summer when i could have worke don it, but now its cold ans wet everything seems to be going wrong
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I regularly get mind down to 2 or 3 miles left on the range with no problems. Had it showing 0 a couple of times too ;D ;D
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On board computer tells lies ignor it
Rely on calculated mpg & you're getting a good figure, best I have ever achieved is 33mpg
Always leave 10 litres minimum in tank
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I normally fill up when it gets down to a quarter of a tank but since my bank account was emptied in November I've not been able to afford to. So it's been getting a tenner here and there.
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I am thinking that the OBC could be knackered. but the fuel light had only just come on and the needle hadnt reached the red yet, guess ill have to keep it on the line above red from now on.
thats the best mpg i have had out of it in the last 3 months though. Worst i had was just after i serviced it, where i only got 380 miles out of a tank
Anyway, i just paperclipped it to see what it had to say for itself
19 Incorrect RPM Signal
64 Fuel Quantity Control Out of Range
82 Sensor Injector Start Incorrect RPM-Signal
92 Cruise Control Device Circuit Open Or Voltage High
Now 19 i can understand as it is not running.
64 i believe is the senso on injector 4? which causes the EML on lift off
what does 82 mean?
92 baffles me, as the car doesnt have cruise control fitted, or is that what it is telling me?
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Get a new fuel filter and a tin of Wynns Diesel Magic. Take the old filter off and empty it back into the tank, fill the new filter with the diesel magic, then refit. Then take it for an italian tune up. That should help a little.
EDIT: 92 just means the cruise stalk isn't fitted ;)
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I did that when i serviced it, and all my problems seem to have stemmed from then. I guess it wouldnt hurt to give it another shot. That way i can check the heater element is fitted correctly as well
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Do the diesel magic trick first, and repeat it in a few days time with a new fuel filter.
Check that the fuel heater is securely tightened to the filter case while you're at it.
Warm starting problems are quite common on these, and there's an easy fix piece of trickery available on Ebay - costs about 30 quid I think.
Suggest you send a PM to Turk for the link for this.
Also, what condition is your battery in?
It needs to be model-specific, and absolutely 100%.
I've cured two by fitting a brand-new good quality battery, (that's assuming the alternator charge-rate and earthing was okay). Both are still warm-starting faultlessly to date, and both batteries although good, were not the magic 100%!
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Ill give the diesel magic trick a go at the weekend, need to pick up a new filter.
The battery i am not too sure about. Its the one fitted when i bought the car. Never had a problem with it, other than when i ran it flat when i had the previous problem with the lift pump becoming disconnected. After a charge over night i has been fine all through the cold weather. I may add a new earth between the batter and engine to rule that out of the equation though
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I guess this is what your talking about
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hot-Starting-Fix-BMW-Vauxhall-Opel-Omega-Diesel-M51_W0QQitemZ370308699137QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item56381e5401
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To get you 'out of the s**te, try pouring some cold water over the injection pump when warm.
Bet it starts okay then!
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I guess this is what your talking about
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hot-Starting-Fix-BMW-Vauxhall-Opel-Omega-Diesel-M51_W0QQitemZ370308699137QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item56381e5401
That's the tinker mate!
Although I've not tried this, I haven't heard of any problems with them.
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code 82 is injector lift sensor (injector no 4), 64 is fuel quantity/position sensor (irc in injection pump)
You can check them at the main ecu plug.
The lift sensor should give you 90-110 ohms between pins 5 and 12 on the main ecu plug.
The fuel quantity sensor should give you 5.5 - 6.5 ohms between pins 14 and 21 and pins 14 and 39.
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code 82 is injector lift sensor (injector no 4), 64 is fuel quantity/position sensor (irc in injection pump)
You can check them at the main ecu plug.
The lift sensor should give you 90-110 ohms between pins 5 and 12 on the main ecu plug.
The fuel quantity sensor should give you 5.5 - 6.5 ohms between pins 14 and 21 and pins 14 and 39.
Ooooer .......
New injection pump and No.4 injector will set you back around 1500 quid.
Been there, done that!
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Cheers mate ill give that a go. I am guessing the ecu is in the box next to the battery. If the resistance is not as you have stated what are my options. if the quantity/position sensor has gone is that new pump time(new engine), or can it be changed without too much hassle?
code 82 is injector lift sensor (injector no 4), 64 is fuel quantity/position sensor (irc in injection pump)
You can check them at the main ecu plug.
The lift sensor should give you 90-110 ohms between pins 5 and 12 on the main ecu plug.
The fuel quantity sensor should give you 5.5 - 6.5 ohms between pins 14 and 21 and pins 14 and 39.
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If you dont get the right readings, check all the plugs between the pump and ecu/sensors.
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OK ill give that a go tonight and see what i get. How long do i need to leave the battery disconnected to reset the ECU. i want to clear the codes and then see which ones reappear, just to make sure they are recent codes
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34 mpg is average. I'm on my 4th td auto est c300k mls. The computers vary widely 27, 57 38, all did c34,
Have driven miles with 0 flashing, have run out with 11 showing (same car) it developed hot start prob after 2 fills of petrol. I'd worry about the lube provided by fuel treatment whatever it's made of.
My most recent td won't run with less than 25 litres. Vendor never told me!!!!!!! Getting lift pump out is hard work ,I know from experince, turned out prob was leak off pipes, Thanks to here.
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Getting lift pump out is hard work ,I know from experince, turned out prob was leak off pipes, Thanks to here.
Tell me about it. I had great fun playing around with that last time it broke down. Both the fuel pipe and the electrical connector had come off mine.
The mpg isnt too bad, but most of the driving i do is at national speeds and motorway, very little town driving, so i would be expecting nearer or over 40. When i first got the car i managed 600 miles to a tank.
I was wondering how much harm a fuel filter full of diesel magic would cause the fuel pump. I have heard that putting a small amount of 2 stroke oil into the tank can help with fuel pump lubrication.
Although i will wait and see what readings i get from the sensors that are causing the ecu codes. Does anone know if the fuel sensor in the pump is replacable, or is it a complete pump replacement?