Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: GaryBC on 27 January 2010, 09:21:34
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Hi guys
I've got an ABS ECU change coming up in the next month or so (usual snags - ABS/TC/Speedo failed).
For various reasons I'd prefer to fit a replacement ECU from a scrappy rather than sending mine away for refurb. This generates a few questions - hence this post!
- Of all the parameters that I imagine could be relevant (engine size, gearbox type, year, body type, etc), which are the important ones? (The ones which, if I match them correctly, mean I don't have to get the car Tech 2'd!)
- When I receive my replacement unit from the scrappy, is there any way of telling if it a) works and b) is the right one? (Prior to fitting it, that is!)
- In the event that, having done all I can to establish that it is the right one, what it turns out (post fitment) to be from a non-matching donor car? What effect could that have on my car? Will fitting the wrong one do any permanent damage? Or is it simply a matter of getting it Tech 2'd? Will any of the current faults (ABS/TC/Speedo) go away?
If there's anything else important that I've not thought of I'm all ears!
My Miggy is a 2000 2.5CD Auto petrol saloon on a W plate. Has anyone got a working ABS ECU (at the right price!) that'll be a straight swap into mine?
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I had one fitted with no program for a while (brand new from dealer)....
it caused the car to idle wrongly and stall when cold, and TC light to be always on.
the wrong program would likely see TC come in when it shouldnt / not when it should.
possibly it may detect the gearbox was wrong, and just not work.
its very easy to change with tech2 or similar :y
FYI, it only knows engine and gearbox....I would guess gearbox would be more important parameter.
ohh, and where are you? we may be able to recommend someone who can reconfig locally :y
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As said, not really a problem to reconfigure with a tech 2 if the ECU is physically compatible and, if it did cause running issues, you could always disconnect it or pull the fuse to get it to a tech 2.
I would ask yourself if it's worth going the scrappy route though. These are relatively common failures. Those who do not know about the refurb route will be presented with a large bill for a replacement at MOT time. Car ends up at a scrappy. It's a pain to change the ECU, and to find you've got another dud..
On the other hand, the refurb route, whilst it costs just over 100 quid, is a pretty much guaranteed fix, with the certainty that it won't give you any more trouble, and that the ECU remains properly configured for the car. :-/
Kevin
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Where am I? North Surrey - near Staines.
Why am I investigating the scrappy option? It is awkward to be without a car for the duration of the refurb turn-round.
But you've just given me an idea! If I get one from a scrappy for a few quid I could get that one refurbed!! That way, the one I eventually get fitted is a straight swap and I know it's a good one. Brilliant! Why didn't I think of that!
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slight flaw....the fail is a ribbon that needs resoldering....
not quite sure what they would do to a non failed one.
guess you could get a 2nd hand, send it to TheBoy who I think could remotely set the program on it, then return it to you to fit :y you'd need to check if that is possible though.
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Where am I? North Surrey - near Staines.
Why am I investigating the scrappy option? It is awkward to be without a car for the duration of the refurb turn-round.
But you've just given me an idea! If I get one from a scrappy for a few quid I could get that one refurbed!! That way, the one I eventually get fitted is a straight swap and I know it's a good one. Brilliant! Why didn't I think of that!
No reason why you couldn't drive the car without the ECU while it's being refurbed. You only need to remove the ECU from the front of the ABS valve block. Braking system remains entirely functional without the ECU.
I have a Tech2, by the way, and I work in Fleet (M3 J4a) so not too far away if you do end up needing to configure an ECU.
EDIT: IME the refurbed ECUs are back within a week.
Kevin
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If I was doing the job myself then yes, I could put it all back together and keep driving the car while the unit is away being refurbed. But as I'll be paying a mechanic to do it I would be effectively paying to have the job done twice - I understand there is quite a lot of strip-out required to gain access (which would all have to be put back and then taken back out again to re-fit the unit). As I have been quoted around £200 for labour it is cheaper to buy a 'seed' unit from a scrappy and just do the job once.
Don't understand what is meant by
"slight flaw....the fail is a ribbon that needs resoldering....
not quite sure what they would do to a non failed one." Can you explain please?
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You said you wanted to send it off to be fixed / refurbed...
dont think they can fix a non broken unit.
These ECU's fail when a tiny bit of metal comes away from a ribbon cable.
Assuming they solder it back together.....they would in fact do nothing.
if they replace the part, then it could be worthwhile, but you would need to know exactly what they do to 'refurb'
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If I was doing the job myself then yes, I could put it all back together and keep driving the car while the unit is away being refurbed. But as I'll be paying a mechanic to do it I would be effectively paying to have the job done twice - I understand there is quite a lot of strip-out required to gain access (which would all have to be put back and then taken back out again to re-fit the unit). As I have been quoted around £200 for labour it is cheaper to buy a 'seed' unit from a scrappy and just do the job once.
Don't understand what is meant by
"slight flaw....the fail is a ribbon that needs resoldering....
not quite sure what they would do to a non failed one." Can you explain please?
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What he is saying is that when the ECU fails it is a small internal "ribbon" like component that fails. When sent away for refurb that is what is repaired. If you buy one where the ribbon hasn't failed then there would be nothing to refurb!
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As I have been quoted around £200 for labour it is cheaper to buy a 'seed' unit from a scrappy and just do the job once.
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Having never done the job myself, I can only go off what others on the forum have said. Removing the electrickery bit from the ABS pump is 'only' 6 srews. Admittedly not an easy job, but £200 labour costs does seem to be excessive.
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Ok, I get it now. (If the only thing that fails is an internal solder joint on a ribbon cable that almost sounds like a DIY repair!)
Is there a quick and simple way to check if this joint is ok (resistance between two pins, or removing a cover, for example)?
Incidentally, how does everyone do that thing where you insert a panel into a post/reply?
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Incidentally, how does everyone do that thing where you insert a panel into a post/reply?
Like this? ;)
Look to the right of the screen & click 'quote'. You'll then get all of what was said before, just edit to suit! ;) :y
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click quote instead of reply.
the units are very well sealed, stanley knife to open, and unless you are extremely competent and have an incredibly fine soldering iron, I wouldnt even attempt it :y
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BBA Reman did the "fix" on my failed one 3 years ago. Sent it to them on the monday by courier, it came back on the friday. £130 including the courier fees, and it had a 2 year warranty.
Worth giving them a ring ??
01634 687222
I was extremely pleased with the service :y :y :y
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TBH, I would speak to BBA-Reman about whether it's worth getting them to have a look at the 2nd hand unit if you go that route. They could at least run a diagnostic on it and tell you if it's OK. It could be that they could replace the wire that frequently fails anyway, thus ensuring the unit will remain reliable.
I hear what you're saying about the labour costs but equally, you don't want to spend £200 to have a faulty ECU installed.
My opinion is that it shouldn't cost much more to put the car back together so it is roadworthy during remanufacture. All you have to do is to replace the top radiator hose, battery and a couple of brackets and top the coolant up and the car is driveable. I helped a forum member do exactly that a couple of months back. The time consuming part of the job is getting the ECU off the valve body due to poor access to the mounting screws.
Kevin
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click quote instead of reply.
the units are very well sealed, stanley knife to open, and unless you are extremely competent and have an incredibly fine soldering iron, I wouldnt even attempt it :y
Like this? Brill, ta!
If they're that tough to get into I'll not try it on a good one!