Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: gstylebaby on 26 February 2010, 21:38:12
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Well as some of you guys know i was having trouble with bleeding my cooling system up so after it now being weeks and weeks since i have been able to use the car with one thing then another (waiting for parts so on) i got p****ed of with getting no where with the cooling system that i booked in at the garage to do cause i thought it must be somthing i'm doing wrong anyway they have told me it looks like the heater pump that goes under the top hose of the rad is faulty there is no power to it and its not working when 12v is put to it.....I never even knew what that was let alone what it does any body any ideas or had trouble with this in the haynes manual it says its an auxiliary coolant pump?? Good news is that i have bled up the coolant system o.k with no air locks apparently.. :y
I'm not impressed with this any more at all. >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
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aux coolant pump was part of the 'winter pack' helped the engine temp get to normal quicker. You can do without it i would think :-/
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aux coolant pump was part of the 'winter pack' helped the engine temp get to normal quicker. You can do without it i would think :-/
Please tell me your not saying that this is not my problem and i still have not found out why this thing still not working right. :-/ :-/ :-/
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Don't suppose you or anyone else has a part number for this so i can get a look at it only the cars still at the garage and i'm in work so i carn't get to my e.p.c. :y
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aux coolant pump was part of the 'winter pack' helped the engine temp get to normal quicker. You can do without it i would think :-/
Please tell me your not saying that this is not my problem and i still have not found out why this thing still not working right. :-/ :-/ :-/
Missed your earlier threads so not sure what problems you had bleeding the coolant system?
Red tap bottom of the rad will drain most of the coolant, if that is damaged/seized, then there is always bottom pipe drivers side to the main rad.
What problems have you been having? :-/
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aux coolant pump was part of the 'winter pack' helped the engine temp get to normal quicker. You can do without it i would think :-/
Please tell me your not saying that this is not my problem and i still have not found out why this thing still not working right. :-/ :-/ :-/
Missed your earlier threads so not sure what problems you had bleeding the coolant system?
Red tap bottom of the rad will drain most of the coolant, if that is damaged/seized, then there is always bottom pipe drivers side to the main rad.
What problems have you been having? :-/
Where do i start when i first refilled the coolant system the temp in the car was on luke warm and when you rev'ed up it got hot and the fans were kicking in at 92 and half on the temp gauge...So i manual filled the heater matrix and that seemed to work it got warm in the car and the fans kicked in at the temp you said it should which was 95/96 on the gauge but then i had to drain some of the water out so i could put the coolant in and the same thing has happened angain but this time i have manual filled and bled the heater matrix and refilled the coolant system more times than i care to think about and i have not been able to get it sorted thats when i sent it in to the garage. I have now not been using the car since before crimbo getting so p****ed off with it that i'm think of a change but i do have alot of sentimental attachment to this car. :-[ :-[
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sounds like a blockage or air lock in the heater matrix, take both pipes off and stick a hose in there, and flush it through.
Then re-fill with nice 50/50 mix with anti-freeze, in this weather you don't want to be running on pure water
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sounds like a blockage or air lock in the heater matrix, take both pipes off and stick a hose in there, and flush it through.
Then re-fill with nice 50/50 mix with anti-freeze, in this weather you don't want to be running on pure water
Thats what i have done more times than i care to think about thats why it ended up in the garage cause i thought i was doing this wrong but i'm not the guys at the garage said its all beld up right?????
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aux coolant pump was part of the 'winter pack' helped the engine temp get to normal quicker. You can do without it i would think :-/
Different pump Tunnie. The winter pack pump is on the driver's side inner wing, around where the mechanical cruise is/would be fitted. The pump on the rad is there to distribute hot coolant around the system when the car stops to prevent loccalised hot spots. :y
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they have told me it looks like the heater pump that goes under the top hose of the rad is faulty there is no power to it and its not working when 12v is put to it.....I never even knew what that was let alone what it does any body any ideas or had trouble with this in the haynes manual it says its an auxiliary coolant pump?? ......
Lack of pump isn't going to affect the day to day running of the car. As said above, it will only run when the car is hot - generally in hot weather - to distribute hot coolant around the sytem when you stop the car. The fans will continue to run at the same time.
Have you had the hose run through your heater matrix? Not the easiest of places to get to I know, but worth a shot. :y
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they have told me it looks like the heater pump that goes under the top hose of the rad is faulty there is no power to it and its not working when 12v is put to it.....I never even knew what that was let alone what it does any body any ideas or had trouble with this in the haynes manual it says its an auxiliary coolant pump?? ......
Lack of pump isn't going to affect the day to day running of the car. As said above, it will only run when the car is hot - generally in hot weather - to distribute hot coolant around the sytem when you stop the car. The fans will continue to run at the same time.
Have you had the hose run through your heater matrix? Not the easiest of places to get to I know, but worth a shot. :y
Hi andy,
Yes mate i have had the hose run through the heater matrix like i said above mate more times than i care to think about just keeps doing the same thing fans kick in at 92.5 on the temp gauge and the heaters are only luke warm....Gonna pop up to the breakers and see if i can get one of these pumps...Although it does not effect the day to day running in this bloody weather with no heaters is reel pain the backside cause not only will i not keep warm but i carn't get the windscreen clear and i was getting ice on the inside...... :-/ :-/ :-/ :-/
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aux coolant pump was part of the 'winter pack' helped the engine temp get to normal quicker. You can do without it i would think :-/
Different pump Tunnie. The winter pack pump is on the driver's side inner wing, around where the mechanical cruise is/would be fitted. The pump on the rad is there to distribute hot coolant around the system when the car stops to prevent loccalised hot spots. :y
Cheers, stand corrected :y
The pump he has on the rad, was that a GM add-on or third party? :-/
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aux coolant pump was part of the 'winter pack' helped the engine temp get to normal quicker. You can do without it i would think :-/
Different pump Tunnie. The winter pack pump is on the driver's side inner wing, around where the mechanical cruise is/would be fitted. The pump on the rad is there to distribute hot coolant around the system when the car stops to prevent loccalised hot spots. :y
Cheers, stand corrected :y
The pump he has on the rad, was that a GM add-on or third party? :-/
The pump on the rad is G.M part number is 90448286 Bosch part number 0392 020 034.
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Can anyone with the same pump on there omega do me a big favour and measure the voltage on the plug to it please just so i know what voltage should be their and if its their all the time or just when the fans come on. Thanks in advance. :y :y
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Well got a known working pump from breakers and fitted that not got any voltage at the plug connector but there is volatge at the relay and the relay is working have tested it at work on a power supply. When i fitted the pump i refilled the heater matrix again manually and then refilled the rest of the system and still no joy still no heat in the cabin... >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
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Maybe your HBV (heater bypass valve) is jammed in bypass mode or the vacuum solenoid for it is not isolating it properly.
Try pulling the vacuum hose off the top of the HBV.
Alternatively, reverse the hoses on the side with the 2 stubs as a test.
Doesn't explain the fan behaviour though, could be that the impeller has came off the water pump (the mechanical one in the engine).
If you remove the small water pipe from the left, sorry, right of the throttle body, does water come out of it when you run the engine?
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The only time the aux. coolant pump on the radiator should have power is when the engine is shut down and the temperature is hot enough for the stage 1 fans to be on. It will make no difference to cooling when the engine is running because it can't run when the engine is running!
It is there only to prevent after-boiling.
Kevin
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Maybe your HBV (heater bypass valve) is jammed in bypass mode or the vacuum solenoid for it is not isolating it properly.
Try pulling the vacuum hose off the top of the HBV.
Alternatively, reverse the hoses on the side with the 2 stubs as a test.
Doesn't explain the fan behaviour though, could be that the impeller has came off the water pump (the mechanical one in the engine).
If you remove the small water pipe from the left, sorry, right of the throttle body, does water come out of it when you run the engine?
I have tryed the vac pipe on the H.b.v and it made no difference and was told thats all o.k...Not sure what you mean about the stub end pipes do you mean the two pipes that go to the h.b.v from the heater matrix or do you mean swap at the heater matrix end. Have not taken the pipe on the throttle body off but when you run the car and you rev it you can see water coming in the header tank from that pipe so that would say to me that its o.k.
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I meant swap the 2 pipes that are on the same side of the HBV leaving the single one that goes to the coolant bridge alone.
Certainly sounds like the water pump is ok if you're seeing ciculation at the header tank.
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BTW, you can also use a coupler to connect the hose from the coolant bridge directly to the heater matrix hose and bin the HBV altogether - i've heard of a few people doing that and they say the air-con still works fine. Of course, you need to block off the other hose and the vacuum hose - you can get copper cap-off bits from any plumbers merchant.
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I meant swap the 2 pipes that are on the same side of the HBV leaving the single one that goes to the coolant bridge alone.
Certainly sounds like the water pump is ok if you're seeing ciculation at the header tank.
I will have a go at this when i'm off work...Thanks for the idea oh and i know this sounds daft i take it i'm hopeing to get heat in the car and if i dont that the h.b.v is o.k ?????
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The only time the aux. coolant pump on the radiator should have power is when the engine is shut down and the temperature is hot enough for the stage 1 fans to be on. It will make no difference to cooling when the engine is running because it can't run when the engine is running!
It is there only to prevent after-boiling.
Kevin
Thanks kevin i now know what it does. :y
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I meant swap the 2 pipes that are on the same side of the HBV leaving the single one that goes to the coolant bridge alone.
Certainly sounds like the water pump is ok if you're seeing ciculation at the header tank.
I will have a go at this when i'm off work...Thanks for the idea oh and i know this sounds daft i take it i'm hopeing to get heat in the car and if i dont that the h.b.v is o.k ?????
Yeah, if you get heat then the HBV would seem to be stuck in bypass mode.
Before you do any of that, and if you haven't already, can you try setting the temp to "HI" on the climate control and see if you get heat then. This was suggested on another similar thread (seems to be a few folk with this problem just now). If you get heat on "HI" it could just be that the sampling fan in the dash has packed in. Wouldn't that be a bummer if it was as simple as that?!
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I meant swap the 2 pipes that are on the same side of the HBV leaving the single one that goes to the coolant bridge alone.
Certainly sounds like the water pump is ok if you're seeing ciculation at the header tank.
I will have a go at this when i'm off work...Thanks for the idea oh and i know this sounds daft i take it i'm hopeing to get heat in the car and if i dont that the h.b.v is o.k ?????
Yeah, if you get heat then the HBV would seem to be stuck in bypass mode.
Before you do any of that, and if you haven't already, can you try setting the temp to "HI" on the climate control and see if you get heat then. This was suggested on another similar thread (seems to be a few folk with this problem just now). If you get heat on "HI" it could just be that the sampling fan in the dash has packed in. Wouldn't that be a bummer if it was as simple as that?!
I dont have climate control mate..... :y
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Mines one of the first omegas so i have 1.2.3..4 on the heaters. Wish it was that simple mate. :y :y
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Mines one of the first omegas so i have 1.2.3..4 on the heaters. Wish it was that simple mate. :y :y
Ah,ok. Ignore that then.
I take it you've tried opening all the air vents to check it's not just that the direction selector is goosed - it's vacuum driven on the non climate models.