Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: JayHoe on 22 March 2010, 17:15:09
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My Omega is losing water fast and badly! It appears to be coming from around the vicinity of the bottom pulley (2 litre engine). I assume, unless someone hints otherwise, that either the water pump gasket or water pump are at fault.
I have the haynes book of lies but tbh its not helping much. So, is my diagnosis likely, and if so, how much of a job would this be please.
Also, while I am here, both front doors, but passenger especially seems to very suddenly be very rusty just below the bottom hingers, and the doors have started creaking on their hinges - is imminent collapse on the cards... :-/
Cheers
Jay
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sounds very much like a water pump failure. If so do not drive it or even start it. the water pump runs off the cambelt on the 4 pots. If the water pump fails then the cambelt can fail then.... bye bye valves....
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Thanks for that Jonathon. So how much of a job is it to replace?
Thanks.
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quite easy, was the pump replaced at last cambelt change?
Unclip the cable tray, and remove the bolts securing it. Release the aux belt (15mm)
Take the cam cover off, and you will have access, you will also need to take the cambelt off, as the waterpump is cambelt driven (hence don't start or run it) You will need the cam locking wedge for the cams.
Its worth checking the timing is correct whilst there
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As for the doors, you can either repair & repaint or get a couple from the guys breaking cars on here. The cracking/creaking noise is caused by the nylon bush on the door check strap being worn out, part No: 90462823 (one for each door) at around 14p each? HTH :y
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I think Tunnie means:
"Take the cambelt cover off"
:)
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I think Tunnie means:
"Take the cambelt cover off"
:)
Ah yeh, whooops! Although when speaking about aux belt and cable tray, kinda suggested that area, but good point :y
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Thanks people, I guess my last question for now is who is a good supplier, with good prices?
Cheers
John
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Sorry guys, I am having trouble identifying the parts required. How do I tell if I have an X20XEV? It is an 'N' reg car.
Can anyone give me the part numbers for...
water pump
aux belt
timing belt
Also, Haynes mentions a tensioner on the aux belt - but I can't spot it. I took a pic but can't upload it. But going clockwise from 6 oclock position, I have a big pulley (leak is from behind here and I believe this is the water pump). Then at 10oclock it the alternator, at 3 o clock is the PS pump, but there is a small pulley at about 5 oclock, between the PS pump and water pump. What is this? The tensioner? If so, I can't see how it adjusts to give slack.
Very sorry about this. I am rebuild an old 72 series 3 Landy and am happy working on that, but I know very little about this car which was bought as an old banger runabout.
As always, I appreciate the help - and please accept my apologies for the numpty questions!
Cheers
John
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An N-reg 2-litre will be an X20XEV, I'm 99% certain.
Aux tensioner is loosened with a 15mm spanner turned clockwise on that pulley near the PAS pump.
Water pump is cambelt driven, so it and its pulley only visible once the cambelt cover is off.
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Brilliant, thanks Abiton!
So the big pulley at the bottom is what? Crank shaft I presume then to drive the rest? *face slap moment*!
I shall order the bits. and if anyone wants advice of a series 3 land rover with a discorvery 200TDi engine in... just ask :y ;D ;D
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Brilliant, thanks Abiton!
So the big pulley at the bottom is what? Crank shaft I presume then to drive the rest? *face slap moment*!
I shall order the bits. and if anyone wants advice of a series 3 land rover with a discorvery 200TDi engine in... just ask :y ;D ;D
Yes....how do you make the brakes effective, how do you avoid having to keep welding the bulk heads and chassis, how do you get an effective heater setup, how do you get the steering to have any feel......
Joke :y ;D
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how do you make the brakes effective, how do you avoid having to keep welding the bulk heads and chassis, how do you get an effective heater setup
Adjust them and they are perfectly good!
Fit a galvanised chassis.
Fix it and then blast, dip and galv your bulkhead.
Put on a coat, or stop being a pansy.
:D
Oh, and then keep grinning at £100pa insurance and no road tax :y
Don't know if you can see this pic or not...
(http://tinyurl.com/yfkzxx5)
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Just realised that I hadn't given you guys an update...
Its all done and dusted! Yes, the bearings had gone in the water pump so the diagnosis was correct. I had a little problem in that I got hold of the wrong replacement pump - QCP3058 which is suitable for the 2.0 8V, and not 16V :-[
Also, it looked like one of the cam pulleys was 1 tooth out - it's not now and runs better than before :y
So, many, many thanks everyone, its much appreciated. Oh, and if anyone wants a QCP3058 equiv MCP3058 (fitted, not used and removed immediately) then message me. £10 inc postage.
Cheers again
Jay 'Happy boy' ;D ;D ;D
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As for the doors, you can either repair & repaint or get a couple from the guys breaking cars on here. The cracking/creaking noise is caused by the nylon bush on the door check strap being worn out, part No: 90462823 (one for each door) at around 14p each? HTH :y
The stealers have had a price increase, these little bushes are now 27p + VAT each retail. :o
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As for the doors, you can either repair & repaint or get a couple from the guys breaking cars on here. The cracking/creaking noise is caused by the nylon bush on the door check strap being worn out, part No: 90462823 (one for each door) at around 14p each? HTH :y
The stealers have had a price increase, these little bushes are now 27p + VAT each retail. :o
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Crikey, at least Dick Turpin had the decency to wear a mask while he robbed you! ;D ;)