Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Welung666 on 04 March 2010, 07:48:54
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My 99 tractor has had a jumpy clutch since I've had it. Basically when pulling of it bites about halfway up then jolts which releases the clutch so I have to lift off further to get it to bite. I noticed just before Xmas in the snow that if it's wet then I get some clutch slip but recently it's started to slip in the dry to. So I've ordered me a new clutch kit ready. Now for the questions....
Could the DMF be faulty and cause the clutch's biting point to jump up to near the top of the pedal from the halfway point?
As the clutch started slipping when wet I'm thinking contamination of some sort. Is there a rear cam seal or similar that could let oil down the back and onto the clutch? Or could it be from when #6 leak off pipe burst (but I'd have thought that would have burnt off by now)?
I just need 1/2 an hour to get underneath to look in the bung to see if it is contaminated.
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Anybody?
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Could be contamination......DMF's tend to rattle when buggered.
Could also be sticking on the gearbox splines.
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Could be contamination......DMF's tend to rattle when buggered.
Could also be sticking on the gearbox splines.
I'd not thought of that. I've ordered a new clutch kit anyway. Got an Over 218 coupe to prep for a re-mot Saturday (about 2 hours of welding, seat belt buckle, broken door handle and a full brake rebuild inc. pipes) so I'll try and get it up on the ramps for a look in the bung at the same time.
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DMF sysmptoms can vary immensley, but the most common is the rsttling!!
also at a certain rev range the car can be very very lumpy sometimes tickover sometimes higher up!
it can alsogive bad judder when pulling away,
or a couple of other symptoms, best bet is to whip the box out(hour tops) remove the clutch AND then have a good root around the flywheel, try twisting the 2 halves against each other and check for blueing on the face, if you can rattle the two halves against each other again its a matter resally of experience, but if the f/wheel has any untoward movement in it then its ussually shot!
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DMF sysmptoms can vary immensley, but the most common is the rsttling!!
also at a certain rev range the car can be very very lumpy sometimes tickover sometimes higher up!
it can alsogive bad judder when pulling away,
or a couple of other symptoms, best bet is to whip the box out(hour tops) remove the clutch AND then have a good root around the flywheel, try twisting the 2 halves against each other and check for blueing on the face, if you can rattle the two halves against each other again its a matter resally of experience, but if the f/wheel has any untoward movement in it then its ussually shot!
Thanks OT :y I thought I'd check for a rattle tonight on my way home. Opened the windows and turned the radio off.... No real rattles, judders a bit but I put that down to the biting point moving up the pedal. I do, however, get a metallic rattle when I switch the engine off with the clutch held down, it's not present if I do it without holding the clutch down.
Now to find someone breaking a TD I guess ::)
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Is the clutch and DMF different between a diesel and a petrol v6 do you know??
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Is the clutch and DMF different between a diesel and a petrol v6 do you know??
That's about the 3rd question on my current list Chris ;) ;D ;D
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my omega has all the same probs as yours :(
please can you let me know how much you gave for your clutch and dule mass f/wheel and where from
its a small fortune lol
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here you go guys!!!
http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/clutch-parts-buy.php
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An update!
Finally had an hour to myself today and got the car up in the air and took the undertray off. Found a load of nuts (some of which I'd dropped when changing the glow plugs) and a 10mm spanner ;D ;D
Clutch is bone dry and spotlessly clean but down to the rivets so looks like I need to order me a DMF and get this done. I don't think it'll make it to my next payday so looks like I'll be walking most of this month as I can't afford the bits until then. :-/