Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: essexgent on 06 June 2010, 10:02:03
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hi guys i need your help i own a omega 2.2 cdx 03 reg my ignition barrel wont turn when i put the key in it no matter how much i jiggle the key about in the ignition nothing happens can u please help
thank you
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if the steering is locked have you tried rocking the steering wheel as you turn the key
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hi yes i have try'd that an still nothing the key refuses to turn the barrel i have even try'd a little bit of wd40 on key
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I reckon you need to keep trying, removing and reinserting key. Once you have it turned to I, remove the barrel and service it.
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Spray a bit of the (over rated) WD40 in to the barrel and leave for a few minutes
Insert and remove the key 10-20 times.
Try again
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Spray a bit of the (over rated) WD40 in to the barrel and leave for a few minutes
Insert and remove the key 10-20 times.
Try again
Oi! It has its uses. Its quite good for bringing plastics back to black ;D ;D ;D
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may have some fluff from your pocket in the barrell, try a long needle in the lock, bend the point a bit and push in and out of the barrell see if you can get it out.
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hi guys i need your help i own a omega 2.2 cdx 03 reg my ignition barrel wont turn when i put the key in it no matter how much i jiggle the key about in the ignition nothing happens can u please help
thank you
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1225657771
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I had a similar problem with mine. I resovled it by covering the key in graphite ( rub a pencil lead over fine sandpaper) insert, and withdraw the key several times. Good as gold now. :y
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I had this problem with my old vectra twice dont use wd40 as this makes all the sliders inside stick, give it a tap lighty with a small hammer if this dont work it means a new barrel the problem is if wont turn then you can not get barrel out call local locksmith they dont charge much mine was about £35 but he will drill it out which means new barrel cost £54,try what cleggy has said better than wd40
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thank you very much lads for all ur help an advice i will try all of these things
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From experience, and having refurbished ours after this problem, I'd say just don't bother with the various lubrication ideas, or the hitting with a hammer idea. Neither helped us.
The problem isn't friction, it's more one of fractional misalignment, or burrs caused by the tumblers hitting bits they shouldn't during previous attempts to turn the key when not fully in etc.
There's near-zero torque required to turn the key if everything's OK with the tumbler alignment, and the tumblers simply have to move when the key's inserted, there's no way they can 'stick'.
The problem comes through wear on the key, wear on the tumblers' surfaces that touch the key, and the wear/collisions between the outside surfaces of the tumblers and the inside suface of the barrel.
Persist and it will turn, then you can get the guts out, then you can disassemble and refurbish as per the guide. :y
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The problem comes through wear on the key, wear on the tumblers' surfaces that touch the key, and the wear/collisions between the outside surfaces of the tumblers and the inside suface of the barrel. .....
What are you all doing with your ignition barrels? There's 160 000 miles on my car, so you would expect some wear on the tumblers. But I've never had any problems with mine (touches wood as we speak/type), the same with my 170 000 mile Astra. The only problems I've ever had with either, is that the Astra woudn't give you the key when you turned the ignition off - but PTFE spray seems to have sorted it.
I'd say that lub WILL help. There are some very very tiny springs inside the barrel that lift each individual brass tumbler back to its rest position, if the grease in there has solidified, then the spring won't be able to return the tumbler to its start postion and may allow the tumbler to foul the key on removal/insertion.
Assuming you get the key to turn at some stage, I would remove the barrel & clean the whole thing up .... make sure you keep it all in order ;D ;D ;D
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had the same problem kept trying and eventually turned ,dont risk using after having turned, I fitted a new barrel straight away.
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i just had this problem 2 hours ago.. i used a brake cleaner spray and sprayed inside the ignition until no more black stuff came out. carefull to put some wipes just below the ignition not to damage anything. i inserted the key a few times and sprayed again and after i thought it was clean i left it for 15 minutes to dry, then sprayed some wd40 and turned the key on and off untill it started to work smooth.
i don't know if it is the best way to do it and how much it will last but at least you won't be stuck somewhere because you can't turn the key. i will give feedback tomorow if it needs lubricating again or not :).
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Spray a bit of the (over rated) WD40 in to the barrel and leave for a few minutes
Insert and remove the key 10-20 times.
Try again
Oi! It has its uses. Its quite good for bringing plastics back to black ;D ;D ;D
.. until it rains again. ::)
I find it's excellent for stopping lawn mowers rusting.
If you have to use it on a lock I'd say regard it as an emergency measure as the sticky residue will collect any future contaminants. Best to refurb the lock afterwards and lubricate with something dry like graphite IMHO.
Kevin
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Lots of advice here buts should you need to drill it here is my learning:
New lock requires car pass presented to VX dealer.
Order early in the day and it is likely to be available next day. (I did post something about VX's supplier of the lock on this forum, a firm in N. London as far as I can remember)
Carefully prize off and remove the rubber surround to the ignition key barrel.
Carefully prise apart steering lock plastic cover along RH join, it clips together but is also held on by two self tappers behind the steering wheel. This will enable you to gain a bit of movement in the cover ready to attack the screws.
By moving the now wobbly cover around you should just be able to get a small cranked pozi drive driver to the heads of the two self tappers (after prizing off their caps)
Once you have got this far and the cover is fully removed, it is a question of drilling the lock out. Suggest using increasing sized drills being careful not to go too deep, and holding drill in alignment with where ignition key would be. Standing on your head in the car seat, the depth required becomes fairly obvious! The lock is made of some kind of cast alloy (wards are brass) and drills fairly easily, but makes a mess of the carpet, so put something down first.
Once old barrel is out, replacement with new is easy. Use the "How To" to identify parts and method. If new barrel does not go straight in and latch in place, it is probably because the steering lock has engaged. ( see also how to or reminder packed with replacement barrell)
Best of luck
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My lock was causing a bit of grief earlier and no matter how much jiggling of the key it wouldn't turn,in the end it was solved by making sure I had pushed the key into the lock firmly and all is ok for the moment (touch wood)