Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: gridx on 12 July 2010, 23:33:47
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99 v6 2.5 CDX. Starts OK but intermittently stalls or just dies. Can stall when pulling away (that's scary) forwards or reverse. When put into drive or reverse on the brake engine can start spiking to 1500rpm making the rear bob up and down like a bitch on heat, most embarrassing. Stalling gets less likely as it warms. Acceleration now seems under powered.
I've had her for 8 years and I'm not going to give up on her.
Thanks in advance if anyone can help.
Mel
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Any codes stored. ICV & breathers clean, re; fluctuating idle, any vac leaks
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either an air-leak or idle control valve (ICV is sticking) check out the guide for removing and cleaning that :y
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I was told there were no codes. It has been thoroughly checked for hose leaks.
Is the ICV the same as the 'Idle Speed Adjuster Valve' mentioned in Haynes manual? Would this account for the lack of power when driving?
I have noticed it has acquired a high pitched whine on starting that lasts for between 30-60 seconds. This is a new 'feature' along with the irregular idle and stalling.
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Don't know how you've checked for vac leaks .. but a good way is ... with engine idling spray lightly along all vac pipes/connections and anywhere else you wish to check .. with carb cleaner.. If/when the engine note changes as it speedds up .. you've just found the vac leak, as the carb cleaner has been sucked in and used as "extra" fuel .. :)
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Friend/mechanic said he had checked the hoses by touch and sight. Will try the spray method when I can get some carb cleaner. (joke - I missed the 's' off spray above, so was going to try the 'pray method'. It could be the next step.)
Just been looking at the car and noticed the throttle cables have a lot of slack when idle. Also, if I turn the throttle up quickly the car tries to die then picks up. If I turn it slowly it is OK.
I pulled the plug on, what I think is, the ICV but there was no difference in the engine idle behaviour. Is the ICV the part held in place by a rubber bung?
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Update: I do not have many stalls when the car is at running temperature.
This evening I removed what I think is the ICV and cleaned it with carb cleaner. I tightened the slack throttle cable. I also noted the new interior mat, not Omega, on the drivers side was over the throttle stop impeding full depression of the peddle. Trimmed the mat to solve that one.
I will have to wait until tomorrow for is to be cold and test it on the way to work. I commute 60 miles a day so it gets a good daily test.
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Update - symptoms getting worse, stalled while going around a roundabout. Tried the carb cleaner to no effect. Has started changing down a lot on mild grades that were not a problem before. Looks like it is not compensating for any type of load, trnsmission, steering, braking, etc.
Any ideas anyone?
Anyone around milton keynes got a tech 2 or any other way of reading codes?
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Read codes with a paperclip http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687
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Will it make it to deepest Brackley?
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I had a similiar problem and it turned out to be a cranshaft sensor.
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TheBoy - thanks for the response. I can make Brackley, even if I have to push her all the way. I work Mon-Fri around Althorpe but get back MK about 18:30. Free most other times. Any chance you are available during the 'other' times? What sort of test would I need?
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Ram428 - replaced the Crank Sensor about 12 months ago. Followed instruction from this forum I did the job in 20 minutes. Would not think it would go so soon.
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Rob G - I will do that if TheBoy can't fit me in any time soon. I'm off to Whitney tomorrow, which could be traumatic.
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TheBoy - thanks for the response. I can make Brackley, even if I have to push her all the way. I work Mon-Fri around Althorpe but get back MK about 18:30. Free most other times. Any chance you are available during the 'other' times? What sort of test would I need?
I'm usually in most evenings.
Is the fault there all the time?
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The stalling when driving happens a lot of the time, slightly less when at running temperature. Always under powered. I can make it stall by pushing the throttle up quickly from under the bonnet.
Are you available this morning, I can be there in under an hour?
Thank you for helping out.
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The stalling when driving happens a lot of the time, slightly less when at running temperature. Always under powered. I can make it stall by pushing the throttle up quickly from under the bonnet.
Are you available this morning, I can be there in under an hour?
Thank you for helping out.
Sadly, not available this morning, as off to the beer festival shortly. Not available tomorrow for a related reason ;D
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Can I PM you with some contact details?
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I ran the paper clip test. Very simple, even I didn't blow anything up. The only codes were 3x 19 Incorrect RPM Signal. I am not sure if the code is left over from the crank sensor failure 12 months ago so is there any way to clear the codes?
Mel
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I have noticed it has acquired a high pitched whine on starting that lasts for between 30-60 seconds. This is a new 'feature' along with the irregular idle and stalling.
This could be the SAI pump, located behind the front bumper, on the passanger side (on RHD car).
I have the same sound.
It can be disconected, because it is useless >:(
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When you say disconnect the SAI pump do you mean just pull the electrical connector?
Mel
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I ran the paper clip test. Very simple, even I didn't blow anything up. The only codes were 3x 19 Incorrect RPM Signal. I am not sure if the code is left over from the crank sensor failure 12 months ago so is there any way to clear the codes?
Mel
Each code gets repeated 3 times so that sounds right for a failing crank sensor.
I think old codes clear themselves after 25 starts so if you changed the crank sensor a year ago the code should have gone by now.
Did you fit a genuine sensor?
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When you say disconnect the SAI pump do you mean just pull the electrical connector?
Mel
i think so...i was adviced to pull out the fuse.
I have the same problem, but never got to sort it out.
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I ran the paper clip test. Very simple, even I didn't blow anything up. The only codes were 3x 19 Incorrect RPM Signal. I am not sure if the code is left over from the crank sensor failure 12 months ago so is there any way to clear the codes?
Mel
Each code gets repeated 3 times so that sounds right for a failing crank sensor.
I think old codes clear themselves after 25 starts so if you changed the crank sensor a year ago the code should have gone by now.
Did you fit a genuine sensor?
Know idea if it is a Vauxhall part but it is definitely a sensor! Got it from Europarts.
Update - Took out the crank sensor and cleaned the oil off. Think the oil is residual from the rocker cover gaskets leaking. That was fixed about the time it started stalling. The sensor lead had been put over the top of the exhaust so I routed through the large gap by the ABS ECU. Make more sense to me because I can now get to connect easier. I have got pictures if anyone is interested.
Went to work and back without stalling. Still under powered and changing down too often but not as bad as it was. Should I get a new sensor or wait and see if the ECU adjusts to the improvement (I've heard they do that)?
Mel
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New sensor and VX part ONLY ... buy a pattern one and you'll be changing it again very soon.
Guide in the "how to's" on re-routing the cable.
genuine only .. no messing .. :)
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Yep don`t i know this ::) ::) ::)
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Can anyone recommend a good place to get a crankshaft sensor part 90492061 (oval connector) at a reasonable price?
TIA