Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Hollywood_Wheels on 08 August 2010, 17:05:54
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Thought I'd save a few bob and do the discs and pads myself after getting insurance money following my recent accident (lorry went into the back of me).
The rear brakes went fine, took a little while to get the old rusted discs off but that's all, enjoyed doing it.
Started trying to do fronts today. First, BOTH 13mm bolts securing the caliper to the mounting bracket sheered, so there's now no way of attaching it back. The two 18mm bolts that hold the bracket tothe hub are seized SOLID. I've used a can of WD40 on them and battered the spanner with the mallet, to no avail.
What can I do? The car is now on stands in the garage and is undriveable because of the sheered bolts, I can't reattached the caliper to drive it anywhere!!!!!! :-/
Are the securing bolts and screws available from Vauxhall? How am I going to shift the 18mm bolts? Any help/advice or tales of similar problems would be MUCH appreciated folks!
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Genuine Vx pads usually have new 13mm bolts in the box.
The 18mm fixing bolts will be tight. No good using WD40 - use plusgas.
A good fitting 18mm socket and long breaker bar should shift them with a bit of applied muscle :y
When the calipers off you will need to carefully drill out the broken bolts, probably retap the threads and fit new bolts.
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It does sound like your car was used in a salt water environment or something. You may find it cheaper to visit a scrapyard & replace the front suspension legs. This is not that big a job, and you can do pads/discs while it's on the bench. I think it would be preferable to the other option.
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Cheers guys. I know an engineer, so I may ask him to drill out the bolt and retap the threads, it's beyond my capability. I may have to invest in a decent extendable socket wrench too, at the moment I rely on a standard spanner set, so I just can't get the necessary force onto the 18mil bolts I suppose.
The pads are EBC Ultimax, so they didn't come with new 13mil bolts. Where would be the cheapest place to get new bolts do you reckon?
I'll be on the forum a lot more soon, once I've joined up properly, this really is an excellent and helpful place. 8-)
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It does sound like your car was used in a salt water environment or something. You may find it cheaper to visit a scrapyard & replace the front suspension legs. This is not that big a job, and you can do pads/discs while it's on the bench. I think it would be preferable to the other option.
What happens when the OP can't get the struts off? Obviously hasn't got the appropriate kit, as he says himself. Easier to use the right kit than start taking other bits off - will still have to shift the 18mm caliper bolts "on the bench" - if a bench available :-/
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Cheers guys. I know an engineer, so I may ask him to drill out the bolt and retap the threads, it's beyond my capability. I may have to invest in a decent extendable socket wrench too, at the moment I rely on a standard spanner set, so I just can't get the necessary force onto the 18mil bolts I suppose.
The pads are EBC Ultimax, so they didn't come with new 13mil bolts. Where would be the cheapest place to get new bolts do you reckon?
I'll be on the forum a lot more soon, once I've joined up properly, this really is an excellent and helpful place. 8-)
Abco Industrial Fasteners
Unit 5, The Gloucesters, Crompton Close, Basildon SS14 3AY
Try these, two 13mm bolts won't break the bank.
HTH :y :y :y
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You do have a point, good job he has a mate who is an engineer. :y
It does sound like your car was used in a salt water environment or something. You may find it cheaper to visit a scrapyard & replace the front suspension legs. This is not that big a job, and you can do pads/discs while it's on the bench. I think it would be preferable to the other option.
What happens when the OP can't get the struts off? Obviously hasn't got the appropriate kit, as he says himself. Easier to use the right kit than start taking other bits off - will still have to shift the 18mm caliper bolts "on the bench" - if a bench available :-/
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If you ring Vx and describe the bolts, the guy on the end might mumble the exact size of the bolts to you. I have just gone through replaceing all mine and Vx gave me the size and length of both bolt sizes. :y
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If you ring Vx and describe the bolts, the guy on the end might mumble the exact size of the bolts to you. I have just gone through replaceing all mine and Vx gave me the size and length of both bolt sizes. :y
or a better idea, ring Andy at drive in bury st edmunds, he'll know exactly what you are after!
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I sheared one of these bolts once but luckily the remains of the bolt just unscrewed using a pair of long nosed pliers, have you actually tried to get the remains out? Maybe I was just lucky. I use a 2ft breaker bar on the other bigger bolts and don't have too much trouble shifting them. HTH
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Must be a failure with the caliper mounting bolts.Last year I had 1 shear the head off while trying to remove with 18mm socket on 2ft breaker bar.
I ordered all new caliper mounting bolts direct from Vx..if I remember correctly they are a slightly different length from the back to the front.8 bolts in total.
Advise would be a really good soaking with "plusgas"that should solve problems.
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the caliper mounting bolts are supposed to be tight !
for the caliper to mount bracket 8mm bolts, then it'll be easier just to get two new sliders and change those.
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I would agree on plusgas and patience to let it soak-in.
Using a hex socket rather than the 12-sided ones on tight bolts is a must if there is any suspicion that it might fight back. That decision obviously needs to be made before the head is graunched!
I would be wary of drilling and tapping on calipers unless done by a fully competent mech eng as it is easy to take the top off the threads.
How far into Essex are you?
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Update. Alldi, that was brilliant advice which hadn't even occured to me! ::) I simply used a pair of pliers to remove the remains of the bolts, which came out really easily, happy days.
I've ordered new bolts from Vauxhall, they didn't charge much. The car is going into the garage very soon for bodywork, so I'm just going to get them to fit the front brakes, I've given up trying to get those big bolts off, and I've given up trying to get that blasted wear sensor off the pad! I'd rather pay the garage to do it this time round, at least I did the rears okay. I've read good things about these ebc pads so it'll be nice bedding it all in.
Cheers for the all the advice chaps :y
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If you can get broken studs out with a pair of pliers how come they sheared off?
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If you can get broken studs out with a pair of pliers how come they sheared off?
There was a chunk of metal between the head of the bolt and what the bolt (now stud, after head of it sheared) which created the tension. If the shank of the bolt was also gummed onto the hole in the caliper bracket then that would add to the tension, thus increasing the probability of heads to shear.
Perhaps! ;D
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..wow that was lucky - I've just done this on mine at the weekend and using the guide on the forum it was the easiest job I've done (I couldn't get the d*mn wear sensor out either and managed to break it - just picked up a new one today). I did have to use a longer bar for the 18mm bolts - but they finally relinquished their grip. It's a pretty awkward angle to get 90Nm of torque back on them too unless you're right under the car....
I also took the opportunity to clean the calipers and sliders and gave them a coat of black caliper enamel and red enamel picking out the Lucas and Opel lettering 8-)(very sad I know) - looks very smart though. The discs - black with a red pin line round the hub - even sadder 8-) 8-)
I just need to do the rears now... :y
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..wow that was lucky - I've just done this on mine at the weekend and using the guide on the forum it was the easiest job I've done (I couldn't get the d*mn wear sensor out either and managed to break it - just picked up a new one today). I did have to use a longer bar for the 18mm bolts - but they finally relinquished their grip. It's a pretty awkward angle to get 90Nm of torque back on them too unless you're right under the car....
I also took the opportunity to clean the calipers and sliders and gave them a coat of black caliper enamel and red enamel picking out the Lucas and Opel lettering 8-)(very sad I know) - looks very smart though. The discs - black with a red pin line round the hub - even sadder 8-) 8-)
I just need to do the rears now... :y
Painting discs isn't going to help them disperse heat - which is what they're there for. ;)
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If you can get broken studs out with a pair of pliers how come they sheared off?
There was a chunk of metal between the head of the bolt and what the bolt (now stud, after head of it sheared) which created the tension.
Yeah, that.. the tension on the inner face of the bolt head creates tension along the length of the bolt thread, it's that tension (between the bolt thread face and the hole thread face) that keeps the bolt done up.
As soon as you've sheared the head off the bolt, the tension is gone from the threads and it spins out easily..
Not always, of course, sometimes they're just rusted in place :lol:
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Good to hear you've managed to get it sorted and my advice helped, happy motoring! ;D
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you could try drilling a bore hole in the broken studs and tapping a reverse thread into it , then screw in a smaller hex head bolt so the head of the bolt sits flush with the surface of the stud .. useing a socket this usually works on removing broken studs.. as for seized bolts i find coca-cola is great.. if you get a freezer bag from your missus and seal it around the caliper , then fill with cola and let it stand for a few hours , the cola removes rust and helps free the bolt ( a good 10hrs soak)
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you could try drilling a bore hole in the broken studs and tapping a reverse thread into it , then screw in a smaller hex head bolt so the head of the bolt sits flush with the surface of the stud .. useing a socket this usually works on removing broken studs.. as for seized bolts i find coca-cola is great.. if you get a freezer bag from your missus and seal it around the caliper , then fill with cola and let it stand for a few hours , the cola removes rust and helps free the bolt ( a good 10hrs soak)
The old school - don't drink the stuff - use as a de-ruster - mechanics back in the 60s always sprayed rusty bolts with coca cola - never failed :y