Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Canon Cam on 04 July 2010, 15:17:00
-
OK, my wife's W reg 2.0 GLS auto is getting really annoyig now!! getting to the stage that I might invest in £5 of petrol and torch the damn thing!!!
Here are the problem('s).
1) (most serious) Car is hisitant and idles badly when in drive. Easiest way to descibe it is that it feels like it is about to back fire and if I listen to it underneath sounds like a little "pop" in the exhaust. When stopping at lights in drive, car "judders" and vibrates.
2) when at low speed and sterring on full lock (eg when reversing of the drive and turning, there is a screech - ala fan belt, but fan belt, main belts seems correctly tight.
3) exhuast sound "blowy" even though just had new system fitted.
THINGS DONE SO FAR:
cam gasket replaced a couple of months ago when oil was getting into spark plug wells.
New cat - old one destroyed and blocked so meant car broke down one day and had to be recovered.
Breather pips/tubes and ICV cleaned
new cam sensor.
new maf sensor.
THERE ARE NO FAULT CODES.
Anybody got any suggestions (other than the aforementioned £5 of petrol!) :-/
-
OK, my wife's W reg 2.0 GLS auto is getting really annoyig now!! getting to the stage that I might invest in £5 of petrol and torch the damn thing!!!
Here are the problem('s).
1) (most serious) Car is hisitant and idles badly when in drive. Easiest way to descibe it is that it feels like it is about to back fire and if I listen to it underneath sounds like a little "pop" in the exhaust. When stopping at lights in drive, car "judders" and vibrates.
2) when at low speed and sterring on full lock (eg when reversing of the drive and turning, there is a screech - ala fan belt, but fan belt, main belts seems correctly tight.
3) exhuast sound "blowy" even though just had new system fitted.
THINGS DONE SO FAR:
cam gasket replaced a couple of months ago when oil was getting into spark plug wells.
New cat - old one destroyed and blocked so meant car broke down one day and had to be recovered.
Breather pips/tubes and ICV cleaned
new cam sensor.
new maf sensor.
THERE ARE NO FAULT CODES.
Anybody got any suggestions (other than the aforementioned £5 of petrol!) :-/
1) Check all connections on DIS Pack & especially the condition of the rubbers on the plug end. Check plugs are torqued correctly. Also clean the Throttle Bodyfit & fit a new gasket. Check all pipework/connectors for cuts/splits. Spray Carb Cleaner (carefully!) around the inlet/exhaust area of the Head & see if the engine note changes, indicating an air leak.
2) This is from the Power Steering Pump & probably due to wear, but check the fluid in the reserviour for both level & condition (should be red, if brownish, needs replacing). I've been driving mine with this problem for months now & I occassionally lose steering assistance at parking speeds but it will have to wait until funds are available :-/
3) Check the new joints for leaks, & also the Ex. Manifold to Head bolts for snapped studs as sometimes, unintentionally, a lot of stress is put on the Manifold & downpipe when fitting a new exhaust. Also check the Manifold for a crack, although you would probably hear this as a 'ticking' sound.
HTH, :y
-
oil from previous cam cover leak may have buggered your ht leads, or plugs.
tired or low fluid in pas pump possibly, but they dont like full lock generally.
gat someone to stick a rag over the tail pipe while you search for the leak.
-
thanks for the suggestions so far.
One quikc quesion (looking into flea for leads/plugs). Given my car is a W 2000, - mini-facelift I thnk.....what enging type is it (20XEV??)
-
thanks for the suggestions so far.
One quikc quesion (looking into flea for leads/plugs). Given my car is a W 2000, - mini-facelift I thnk.....what enging type is it (20XEV??)
X20XEV
Was the MAF a new genuine (Bosch) item? What happens if you unplug the MAF and run the car?
-
if you had a pattern cat fitted that will sound shite, like a system is blowing
-
yeah, bosch one, and with MAF unplugged, symptoms same, and engine warning light comes on. Does not come on otherwise.
-
one other tinhg which may help you guys help me.
When in P or N, it is not too bad, when when in drive and stopped, or driving, it is worse - maybe this is just because the engine is under more load?
-
what is the engine idel rev speed??,, and have you clean'd this out.(http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae101/omgod1995m/PICT0035-2.jpg)
-
idle revs are around 800rpm
And yes. small breather tube and hose was first port of call to clean out. It was acutaly fairly clear, the larger (front) pipe on the head is a little cocked, but all cleaned now with carb cleaner.
-
when you take off fast at junction dose the egine make a burring noise sound's like coming from the exhaust???
-
idle revs are around 800rpm
And yes. small breather tube and hose was first port of call to clean out. It was acutaly fairly clear, the larger (front) pipe on the head is a little cocked, but all cleaned now with carb cleaner.
Too high. Are you sure there`s no vac leaks. When you did the ICV and breathers did you use a new gasket for the throttle body, did you clean the small hole in the body, did you check all breather hoses were free of splits. Have you checked the large air inlet hose to throttle body for splits
-
as philrich said I would check the ignition components initially..
and try a known good icv..
and for the exhaust, if consumption is higher than usual there must be a leak .. even a needle head size hole can cause this..
-
I`ve got a genuine dispack with leads. Secondhand but all known good if you want to go down that route
-
thanks guys, will investigate further tomorrow.
When it is in drive and at idle, it now sounds pretty much like a knocking baning at bottom of engine :-[
-
as an update which may hopefully help others.
Finally got around to getting the car into my local garage. Turned out the engine coolant sensor was buggered and was reporting to the ECU the temp was 160 degrees! this meant the ecu backing off the fuel mix causing the bad running and noises.
New sensor fitted (with much paid as the old one snapped off in the cylinder head) and new plugs and seems well again.
-
Well done that man! ;D
Thanks very much for the update Canon Cam, I imagine it will indeed be helpful to many other members. :y
-
as an update which may hopefully help others.
Finally got around to getting the car into my local garage. Turned out the engine coolant sensor was buggered and was reporting to the ECU the temp was 160 degrees! this meant the ecu backing off the fuel mix causing the bad running and noises.
New sensor fitted (with much paid as the old one snapped off in the cylinder head) and new plugs and seems well again.
Although I have a TD I always read these posts as all knowledge is useful, and I have to say I don't recall this coming up on OOF while I have been a member ( Yes I know I'm only a sprog), so well done Canon Cam for the update. :y :y :y
-
as an update which may hopefully help others.
Finally got around to getting the car into my local garage. Turned out the engine coolant sensor was buggered and was reporting to the ECU the temp was 160 degrees! this meant the ecu backing off the fuel mix causing the bad running and noises.
New sensor fitted (with much paid as the old one snapped off in the cylinder head) and new plugs and seems well again.
Although I have a TD I always read these posts as all knowledge is useful, and I have to say I don't recall this coming up on OOF while I have been a member ( Yes I know I'm only a sprog), so well done Canon Cam for the update. :y :y :y
I agree.. :y particularly as I was heading for the Dis Pack, having had similar problems in the past....
-
The annoying thing is ... it was a garage, and not OOF, that spotted it, however, it was a 'local' garage. ::) ::) ::)