Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: IrmscherKris on 09 January 2008, 21:31:02
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WELL PISSED OFF!!! >:( >:( >:(
After muchas swearing and shouting I realised my prop was too long for my converted automatic tractor as it was off the MV6. So off to warrington to get a whole prop - £50 plus a few beer tokens for a mate. Get back, sweet! now I'll bleed the clutch then... That was at 3pm and me and wifey have been at it ::) since then till now >:( >:(
I've got a bleed pipe with an non-return valve in, going in to a bottle which goes on the nipple. The master cylinder, slave and pipe work appear in good order. The clutch is a nearly new item also. There are no visable leaks any where.
:question
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WELL PISSED OFF!!! >:( >:( >:(
After muchas swearing and shouting I realised my prop was too long for my converted automatic tractor as it was off the MV6. So off to warrington to get a whole prop - £50 plus a few beer tokens for a mate. Get back, sweet! now I'll bleed the clutch then... That was at 3pm and me and wifey have been at it ::) since then till now >:( >:(
I've got a bleed pipe with an non-return valve in, going in to a bottle which goes on the nipple. The master cylinder, slave and pipe work appear in good order. The clutch is a nearly new item also. There are no visable leaks any where.
:question
Well, you'd better start bleeding that clutch or it'll never get done. ;D ;D
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get an auto ;)
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You pair of bitches, I was happy being angry - now I'm just laughing! ;D
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I could be wrong, but I think its best to bleed it backwards with a pressure bleeder (one that fits to your spare tyre)
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I nearly chucked a hammer at my next door neighbour when I heard "At it again mate?" while under the car and later "still at it?" and the final straw, "you still not done that little job yet?"
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE MAKE MY CLUTCH WORK! :y
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Yes there not easy to do using the standard pump method.
The best way is to use an easi bleed but connect the pipe that normaly goes to the fluid reservoir cap to the bleed nipple on the gearbox......fill the easibleed reservoir with brake fluid, apply air via the spare tyre and get somebody to watch for when no further bubbles rise into the brake fluid reservoir......job done!
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I could be wrong, but I think its best to bleed it backwards with a pressure bleeder (one that fits to your spare tyre)
He wants to bleed his clutch............not pump his tyres up ;D anyway what use to him is it standing facing backwards....he wont see what he is doing........ ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Yes there not easy to do using the standard pump method.
The best way is to use an easi bleed but connect the pipe that normaly goes to the fluid reservoir cap to the bleed nipple on the gearbox......fill the easibleed reservoir with brake fluid, apply air via the spare tyre and get somebody to watch for when no further bubbles rise into the brake fluid reservoir......job done!
There you go....Mark has advised...you will be on the road soon :y :y :y best of luck :y
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i helped my brother bleed his lotus carlton's clutch last year, took us rather hours!! >:(
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I find non return valves are pants for bleeding brakes. Air seems to get in round the threads of the bleed nipple when you lift the pedal. Another vote for easibleed.
Only don't let it run dry - from experience. Had just got my Westfield brakes right, which is a pain because the master cylinder is pretty much the lowest part of the system. I give it one more tweak on the bleed nipple and a massive amount of air comes rushing out :o
Back to square one. ::)
Kevin
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Markie and I bled my clutch with the 2 man method, pipe from the bleed nipple into a cup of Dot4... keep the tank topped up
Open nipple,
press pedal,
close nipple..
raise pedal..
open nipple...
press pedal...
etc...
I wonder if I could improve my gear selection if I were to use the eazibleed method...
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I wonder if I could improve my gear selection if I were to use the eazibleed method...
Sounds worth a try. It's much easier to get air out when you're working "with" it and not trying to bleed from the lowest point in the system..
Kevin
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When I put my car into the garage to have the clutch replaced, I forgot to mention the advice from this forum to reverse bleed it. Came to collect it and asked how they got on, the reply was "Easy job, apart from bleeding the clutch, couldn't get all the air out. We ended up reverse pressure bleeding it through the bleed nipple."
So I'd suggest doing it the reverse bleed way as stated many times on here.
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Thanks for the reply's peoplesis...
Going to try the reverse bleed method with an eazi bleed. I'll update once it's done.
:y
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The Vauxhall TIS states that a reverse pressure bleed is the only way to bleed the Omega clutch.
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***UPDATE***
>:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
Went and got a power bleeder yesterday, tried it from the top 2-3 times, no joy! So as said on here, tried from the bottom up (reverse bleed) still, no joy.
It's definitely sucking air in somewhere but I cant for the life of me tell and there's no fluid leaks either.
So what next? I really really don't want to have to take the box off again but it's starting to look like I'll have to. I don't know if it has any significance but, the master cylinder holds very good pressure with the pedal up. It held 10, 15 and even 20 psi. I know it has to be a seal but which one?
There's, from top to bottom...
Flex pipe from the master cylinder to clutch master cylinder Jubilee clip at the top and one of those VX ones at the other end.
A metal pipe from clutch M/C to flex pipe which have 2x seals in each end and are only held in by clips that look like (n) that.
The flex pipe goes in to the box to a pipe on the slave.
The slave cylinder did not appear to have any leaks and appeared in good order...
Where to start? :(
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:(