Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: 000jonboy on 11 September 2010, 22:07:15
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Hi everyone i,ve have a problem with my car,i ave just changed my engine fromma doner car everything runs fine on sart up except the eml stays on. once the engine is warm it has no power and won't rev past 2500 rpm. I hav e changed the maf sensor and the icv, does anyone have a idea of what the problem might be? all responses greatly appreciated.
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what work have you done/ parts replaced?
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as above, complete engine change new plugs maf sensor and icv engine ran fine on doner car
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im not into the techie side, sounds like its in limp mode, on the 2.0 motors the cam sensor causes the same thing.
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It will be the crankshaft sensor. What was the year of the donor car? Did you use the ecu from your car or the donor car?
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i kept same ecu on car for engine,i did think that it might be a crank or cam sensor. but why did it run ok while still ondoner car all wires are connected.
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if the wires are nicely cooked, the jiggin around of engine fitment might have finished them off.
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didn't smell any burning of wires only oily smell which is normall after changing a engine
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Hi
Paperclip it for fault codes.
Alan
Hi everyone i,ve have a problem with my car,i ave just changed my engine fromma doner car everything runs fine on sart up except the eml stays on. once the engine is warm it has no power and won't rev past 2500 rpm. I hav e changed the maf sensor and the icv, does anyone have a idea of what the problem might be? all responses greatly appreciated.
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Paper clip then post results:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687
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i may sound thick but have tried reading them but cant seem to understand them. will try again on monday as the mig is not on my drive
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i may sound thick but have tried reading them but cant seem to understand them. will try again on monday as the mig is not on my drive
The codes are easier to understand if you watch the video clip that accompanies the instructions. :y
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Have the plug leads been taken off during engine swap? or maybe the flow and return fuel lines are mixed up?
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Have the plug leads been taken off during engine swap? or maybe the flow and return fuel lines are mixed up?
They are different sizes ;)
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all runs fine when cold it'just won't rev past 2500 when warm
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Sound like its in limp mode, you'll need the codes ;)
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right guys i,ve been and read the codes think i did it right it goes 212129493947 hope someone will make sense of that :) ill also add that it will rev to 2000 rpm then drop to a thousand then back to 2000 lightg ondash stays on all the time
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Lambda sensors connected correctly? wiring in good nick from sensors to plugs? :-/
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as far as i know cant see that it will be sensors as ll good before
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Is the TPS fully connected. :question Do the butterflys open fully when engine not running :question Number 5 injector connected :question
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hi i,ve not got drive by wire throttle it is done by cables
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I know that :) but the 2.5 has a TPS on the throttle body
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ok i know whatr you mean yes is connected it all run fine in doner car :-/
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just another thought would it cause it to do that if the vacum pipes were connected the wrong way ?
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Vac pipe layout here http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152565204
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Bit of a update peeps, i took the pleneum off tonight and it stunk of petrol,i also found that it wasn'tsitting properly. all put back together but still have same problem ,i,ve also noticed that the chrome pipe in front of the drive belt gets red hot !! can any one explain why is this??? it has also blown the short rubber pipe it connects onto,could this be the problem??
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Anyone ?????? :-/
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Did you connect the plug leads up correctly, particularly the 2-4-6 bank (which is not obvious).
Did you keep the original plenum and throttle pot that matches the ecu(the throttle pot pinout got changed at one point)
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Can I also ask that you read the fault codes again as I suspect you have some errors in you numbers above.
I am guessing:
212129493947
is actualy 12 12 12 94 94 94 7.....
So when you read them you will get 3 12's to start and then each fault will flash out three times and read all codes until you get 3 off 12's again
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94 is cam sensor by the way so check all plugs are connected up around the passenger bank
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Bit of a update peeps, i took the pleneum off tonight and it stunk of petrol,i also found that it wasn'tsitting properly. all put back together but still have same problem ,i,ve also noticed that the chrome pipe in front of the drive belt gets red hot !! can any one explain why is this??? it has also blown the short rubber pipe it connects onto,could this be the problem??
Thats a blocked cat or exhaust centre section
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Bit of a update peeps, i took the pleneum off tonight and it stunk of petrol,i also found that it wasn'tsitting properly. all put back together but still have same problem ,i,ve also noticed that the chrome pipe in front of the drive belt gets red hot !! can any one explain why is this??? it has also blown the short rubber pipe it connects onto,could this be the problem??
If I am not mistaken those are the exhaust gases coming forward. There is obviously exhaust pressure (misfires, blockage, failure of the SAI one way valve on the SAI pipe, etc.). It may be related to your overall stuff but it is quite disturbing!
Should identify which side rubber coupling has been blown and others may help better or have ideas too.
Cheers.
Sorry I believe Marks DTM Calib already addressed it. :-[
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Thanks for reply yes kept same throttle body and pleneum plug leads all connected when engine was out of car but will double check, the pipe which blew was on same side above air con pipe. don't think the cats are blocked as it runs fine when engine is cold,how can i check if they are blocked and how can i cure it if they are ? seems like there is plenty of pressure coming out or exhaust. many thanks for all your replys. i may sound stupid but what is the sai again ??? am getting old and can be quite forgetfull ::)
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SAI is Secondary Air Injection. There is an air pump in near the fron wheel well and under ECU, etc., control it pumps fresh air into the exhaust for emission purposes. Heats up O2s fast as unburnt stuff gets the cats red hot fast. There is a one way valve between the right and left rubber couplings to ensure that hot exhaust does not come to the front or flow in the silver pipe at front. This pipe should remain cool to touch always. The rubber couplings kind of insulate the middle pipe from connections at exhaust manifolds.
OK I need to cut it out, too much rambling :-[
Cheers and good luck. :y
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it is looking like the cats are buggered then by the looks of it then :( :(