Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: flymofred on 21 September 2010, 17:23:37
-
I thought I would drain/backflush the radiator to see if I could stop the alarming rise of the temp gauge when slogging up hills. I have the undertray off and I can see a drain screw, but surely the 25mm odd hose above it isn't the bottom hose. Also what is the sender unit directly above this 25mm hose. I have discovered the sender below the top hose switches on the electric water pump. So is this lower one the fan relay switch. Can the rad. be backflushed using the drain outlet it is conveniently similar into size to a garden hose.
Thanks
martinH
-
Has the viscous fan been removed.
what temp.is it going up to. mine goes to around 92.
the 25mm hoses that are attached to electric pump are for keeping the cab warm until all the heat from the engine has gone.
the only other 2 options are water pump or the thermostat :y
-
The viscous is still on. Thermostat changed about 2 years ago prior to that it never reached min. temp and got colder and colder off load in the winter, after changing it warmed up right quick and stayed steadily at just above 90.It still runs at just over 90. However with what seem little hard work it now rises rapidly towards 100 and if you then run the car gently it takes much longer to come back down. So going up long gradient with a caravan on the back is heart in the mouth stuff. Where then does the bottom hose join the rad. blowed if I can see it, or can I ignore it and back-flush through the drain outlet.
Thanks
martinH
-
Change the waterpump and thermostat, less that £50 for both and easy enough to do :y
My money is on the impeller seperating from the shaft of the waterpump.
-
I'd agree with welung666 change stat and pump he should know ;)
-
On the TD, there is a drain on the rad (the red one, near hose) and on block (aft of turbo).
Check the waterpump, but methinks it hasn't been having a good enough oil servicing schedule. How often do you do the oil?
-
eerrr I think it might a year don't know how many miles that is. I guess I'm up for online kicking. What is the mileage interval, and will a change help or is too late? :-/
-
eerrr I think it might a year don't know how many miles that is. I guess I'm up for online kicking. What is the mileage interval, and will a change help or is too late? :-/
Mine is changed every 3,500 miles MAX! The oil starts to breakdown and seep through seals, do you have a lot of oil drips on the top radiator hose behind the passenger headlight?
-
eerrr I think it might a year don't know how many miles that is. I guess I'm up for online kicking. What is the mileage interval, and will a change help or is too late? :-/
BMW state 4500 miles MAXIMUM. To be honest, thats too long. I thought 3k was about the limit my old TD would do before ruining its oil.
That BMW engine, like all BMW diesels of that type, are prone to oilways and piston cooling jets clogging up with 'black sludge' if the oil service interval is ignored.
You *may* find that a good, strong oil flush helps, as this may clean out the oil jets in the piston coolers, which will help keep temperature more under control.
-
thanks for that I'll give it a go. I feel I may have racked at least 9k miles (ooops) a lot of those with a van on the back. and yes ever since I,ve had the car oil mysteriously leaks onto the top hose is there a seal I can change?
martinH
-
thanks for that I'll give it a go. I feel I may have racked at least 9k miles (ooops) a lot of those with a van on the back. and yes ever since I,ve had the car oil mysteriously leaks onto the top hose is there a seal I can change?
martinH
No but all of the induction chambers will need a good flush out (inlet plenum and 'turbo diesel' stamped strip along with the pipework).
-
Exactly the same problems that my previous 2.5TD had :(
Fitted new 'stat, rad and water pump, plus strong engine oil and cooling system flush to no avail. >:(
Came to same conclusion as TheBoy.
Engine oil/filter-change, plus 'Turbo Diesel' manifold cleaned every 2500 miles. :y
-
I had the same problem on my 2.5TD. My advice would be to use an infra red thermometer to check that you've really got a problem & to assess the performance of the radiator.
My non expert two pennyworth is that modern oils will last 10k miles (but change at 5k to be safe) & back flushing a rad is ineffective.
My temperature surging was very much reduced by a new rad but measurements showed the temperature guage was reading too high anyway. My temperature now doesn't go above 95 but I reckon its really about 85.
-
Had same problem.
Changed pump & stat = no difference
Flushed rad =no difference
Fitted new rad = cured!
Viscous present but not working.
-
My non expert two pennyworth is that modern oils will last 10k miles (but change at 5k to be safe) & back flushing a rad is ineffective.
Even fully synths don't last that long it would appear.
But in the case of diesels, the oil has an additional function to carry away particulates from the combustion process - this is part of the reason that diesels turn their oil black almost straight away.
-
ooh loads of options. I had a thought if I pull the connector off the the sender unit beneath the top hose and bridge the connector the auxulliary pump will run continuously. If the car runs cooler great, but does it prove the belt-driven pump is u.s. or is the increased flow/pressure over-coming the restricted flow caused by a partial blockage :-/??
martinH
-
I wired the electric fans to run continually & tried clamping hoses to no avail, Finally paid 180 for a new rad.
-
My non expert two pennyworth is that modern oils will last 10k miles (but change at 5k to be safe) & back flushing a rad is ineffective.
Even fully synths don't last that long it would appear.
But in the case of diesels, the oil has an additional function to carry away particulates from the combustion process - this is part of the reason that diesels turn their oil black almost straight away.
I really must change my diseasal Astra's ... it's been in about 6k-ish :-[
-
I wired the electric fans to run continually & tried clamping hoses to no avail, Finally paid 180 for a new rad.
I did that too - it made little difference. >:(
-
ok i will add my 2penceworth, first off the car is an auto, so the autobox chucks extra heat into the radiator and its known worn autoboxes put out a lot of heat :-/
2nd if the oil aint been changed forever then the radiator is having to dissapate all the heat from the engine as the oil just heats up because it has no good heat conductor properties left so the oil cooler aint helping as it should
TB has aready mentioned oil squirters so wont go there as this is also an aid to cooling,
so already the rad is having to cope with at least twice its intended work rate, bottom line is now the rad is full of deposits from trying hard to do the work of three systems,and so is the thermostat and water pump probably
so first a complete service, then as said already stat, w.pump and rad, it should then run properly at the correct temp, this is all a result of improper servicing, and aint knocking you bud you didnt know, but it will pay in the long run to do it all now before you do further damage,i.e. head gasket etc?
-
No offence taken thanks for a concise summary of the action I need to take The autobox was rebuilt completly 3 years ago i wish i had know about putting an AR35 at the time. A-se
Cheers
martinH
-
No offence taken thanks for a concise summary of the action I need to take The autobox was rebuilt completly 3 years ago i wish i had know about putting an AR35 at the time. A-se
Cheers
martinH
thats good Martin, how many miles since then? take it is not chipped? otherwise the box would have died although one box on here isnt and its still surviving how dont know!!! lol :y
-
It isn't chipped I listened to the advice on this site the gearbox was done at 124K I've done around 20K on it now. Just about run in I'd say so it shouldn't be generating much heat (I hope). I haven't looked at the oil filter I hear it can all be done from the top' well apart from draining the sump of course, how do you make sure you get the filter + seal etc is it by chassis no. . Also cleaning out the inlet side of things does this involve removing the inlet manifold???? I've had the Turbo Diesel bit off when I changed the hoses (posh blue stuff) still didn't stop the oil dripping all over the top hose tho'
martinH
-
yours is right on the changeover point for the oil filter, best way look at the filter from the top(almast at the bulkhead below the inlet manifold) small metal bolt on top you need man 938/1
big plastic top 27mm you need man 848/1 dont have the vauxh numbers ,
as to cleaning the inlet, it sounds like the intercoller could be holding a lot of oil(normal) so remove the pipe work from the inlet turbo diesel plastic and clean it all out when the car is jacked up or on ramps to do oil change look at drivers side front just on front of wheel behind the plastic wheel arch protector and you will find the i.c. its only 2 bolts and two pipes to rmove it but is a bit fiddly the first time you do it!! tip it up on its edn and drain as much oil as poss, then run some degreaser or petrol through it to clean it properly(give it a good shake when it has the fluid of your choice in it, you will be amazed at what comes out and also pleased with the performance after doing it!!
-
Thanks for that. The numbers you mentioned I'm not sure what they mean, sorry. I've had a look at the I.C. you say it's 2 bolts and a bit of jiggling (ooeeer) to remove it, are the bolts visible from under the car or are they hidden away up in the wheel arch. I also noticed the fan attached to I.C. is very difficult to turn by hand so I'm guessing it's seized does that need fixing/replacing or throwing away?
Thanks for your help
martinH
-
No offence taken thanks for a concise summary of the action I need to take The autobox was rebuilt completly 3 years ago i wish i had know about putting an AR35 at the time. A-se
Cheers
martinH
thats good Martin, how many miles since then? take it is not chipped? otherwise the box would have died although one box on here isnt and its still surviving how dont know!!! lol :y
8-) 8-) 8-) ::) ::) ::) 8-) 8-) 8-)
-
yours is right on the changeover point for the oil filter, best way look at the filter from the top(almast at the bulkhead below the inlet manifold) small metal bolt on top you need man 938/1
big plastic top 27mm you need man 848/1 dont have the vauxh numbers ,
as to cleaning the inlet, it sounds like the intercoller could be holding a lot of oil(normal) so remove the pipe work from the inlet turbo diesel plastic and clean it all out when the car is jacked up or on ramps to do oil change look at drivers side front just on front of wheel behind the plastic wheel arch protector and you will find the i.c. its only 2 bolts and two pipes to rmove it but is a bit fiddly the first time you do it!! tip it up on its edn and drain as much oil as poss, then run some degreaser or petrol through it to clean it properly(give it a good shake when it has the fluid of your choice in it, you will be amazed at what comes out and also pleased with the performance after doing it!!
I think you will it is a 36mm (black plastic cap HU848/1)
-
yours is right on the changeover point for the oil filter, best way look at the filter from the top(almast at the bulkhead below the inlet manifold) small metal bolt on top you need man 938/1
big plastic top 27mm you need man 848/1 dont have the vauxh numbers ,
as to cleaning the inlet, it sounds like the intercoller could be holding a lot of oil(normal) so remove the pipe work from the inlet turbo diesel plastic and clean it all out when the car is jacked up or on ramps to do oil change look at drivers side front just on front of wheel behind the plastic wheel arch protector and you will find the i.c. its only 2 bolts and two pipes to rmove it but is a bit fiddly the first time you do it!! tip it up on its edn and drain as much oil as poss, then run some degreaser or petrol through it to clean it properly(give it a good shake when it has the fluid of your choice in it, you will be amazed at what comes out and also pleased with the performance after doing it!!
I think you will it is a 36mm (black plastic cap HU848/1)
OOPS!! yes your right i was using a 27mm socket and it must have stuck in my head!!! and the part numbers are the man filter numbers thought you may be able to use them in a car autoparts store for reference!! :y
-
Vx part numbers for the oil filters are within this thread:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1164549800
And here's the 36mm low profile socket that I use:
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Low-Profile-Oil-Filter-Socket-36mm-3-8Sq-Drive-Sealey-SX114
Should you decide to source your filter from Halfords, they don't stock the (later) X25DT jobbie.
They claim that this engine doesn't exist!
:D
The Fram filter for the X25DT is part no CH5979ECO.
:y
HTH ;)