Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: greenman on 22 September 2010, 18:46:10
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After replacing the HBV and the ignition module now I have a smell of oil from the expansion tank and the oil on the dipstick looks slightly milky.When it was losing water because of the HBV it was never allowed to run dry in the expansion tank. Head gasket?
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Are you getting any pressurisation of the rad hoses i.e. rock hard when hot?
Any sign of bubbles entering the expansion bottle? Are you still losing water from the cooling system now that the HBV has been sorted?
Best & 1st check to make is leave the car to stand overnight & then remove the plugs and shine a bright torch into the bores to see if there is any sign of liquid lying on top of any of the piston heads. Use a satay stick or kebab stick or similar with a cotton bud securely fastened to it & dip it into the bore until it touches the piston top, then stir it around gently & remove to see for definate if any liquid is there. If there is, then identify by sight, smell/taste.
If no liquid found in piston bores, then my advice, for what it's worth would be to flush the coolant out of the system & refill with just plain water for a few days while you keep a close eye on fluid level/condition. Also, if the oil is 'milky' on the dipstick, is it also milky on the filler cap? Are you just doing mainly short runs? It could just be condensation buildup. Check the oil level on the dipstick & wipe it clean (the filler cap also), then repeat the checks each morning for a few days to see if the problem persists? HTH & keep us posted as things develop :y
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Plenty of pressure when I remove the expansion cap.Don,t seem to be losing any fluid.I,ll try your advice and keep you posted.P.S. Where is the E.R.G. valve located on 2.2 ecotec?
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Plenty of pressure when I remove the expansion cap.Don,t seem to be losing any fluid.I,ll try your advice and keep you posted.P.S. Where is the E.R.G. valve located on 2.2 ecotec?
EGR is located at the back of the block on passenger side on a 2.2 :y
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I,ve checked for 2 days.Losing water,sludge in the header tank and crank breather emulsified(cleaned out last month).seems to be running on three cyl. and emission light on.
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Definately sounds like HG then :(
Good news is there is plenty of room to work in the 2.2 engine bay & if you are reasonably handy you can DIY it for around £150-£180 & provided you haven't cooked it there's a better than even chance the head wont need skimming :y
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So will it be head gasket set.Timing belt kit.Anything else? Is there any pointers on the forum for this?
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So will it be head gasket set.Timing belt kit.Anything else? Is there any pointers on the forum for this?
I believe on the 2.2, if you're going to do the cambelt change, if you don't know how long the water pump has been on there, or of its age, it might be best to change the pump while you're at it. As the cambelt operates the water pump, especially if you're going to go the route of doing all the work to do the H.G at the end of the day, may pay to go the extra length :-?
Also, get a geniune H.G. set, as the cheaper ones aren't that good (unless anyone else can advise where to get an equivalent quality one from :-? ) . As I know someone that got a non-genuine one, and had to do the H.G. job all over again after about x2 weeks !! :-/ .
Oh... and not sure if it's included in the H.G. set, but if not, then get a genuine camshaft cover (rocker cover) gasket & O-ring seals, and black sealant from the dealers. As those on here that know people who have put non genuine ones on know what happens after a short while ::) .
Hope that helps you out a bit :y
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As above, plus new head bolts as the old ones will have stretched
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As Gooseman says, use only genuine VX gaskets & camcover sealant (black). You will need a new set of head bolts which you may as well get from your local Dealer too as they wont cost significantly more from there than anywhere else. You will also need a new inlet manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket (steel multilayer), new throttle body gasket, new manifold to downpipe exhaust gasket, exhaust assembly paste. If you buy the headgasket kit, I believe all the gaskets you require are in the kit, but here are a few part numbers for reference & if you visit the link to Autovaux, you can check out other part no's & prices too. :y
camcover gasket - part no: 55558349
cam cover black sealant - 90485251
" " 'o' rings - 9052 8438 (x10)
throttle body gasket - 90543950
cambelt kit - 93174267
waterpump - 24409355
headbolt - 90466480 (x10)
www.autovaux.co.uk
BTW, do you have a Haynes Manual? There isn't one for the 2.2, but the 2.0ltr manual covers everything you will need plus there are 'Howto's' for some of the jobs in the maintenance section. If no manual, PM me :y
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As Gooseman says, use only genuine VX gaskets & camcover sealant (black). You will need a new set of head bolts which you may as well get from your local Dealer too as they wont cost significantly more from there than anywhere else. You will also need a new inlet manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket (steel multilayer), new throttle body gasket, new manifold to downpipe exhaust gasket, exhaust assembly paste. If you buy the headgasket kit, I believe all the gaskets you require are in the kit, but here are a few part numbers for reference & if you visit the link to Autovaux, you can check out other part no's & prices too. :y
camcover gasket - part no: 55558349
cam cover black sealant - 90485251
" " 'o' rings - 9052 8438 (x10)
throttle body gasket - 90543950
cambelt kit - 93174267
waterpump - 24409355
headbolt - 90466480 (x10)
www.autovaux.co.uk
BTW, do you have a Haynes Manual? There isn't one for the 2.2, but the 2.0ltr manual covers everything you will need plus there are 'Howto's' for some of the jobs in the maintenance section. If no manual, PM me :y
I believe Marks DTM Calib and others have spoken well of the following if you want to check budget pricing or actually purchase items,
http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/trechii/
Good luck and hope it helps. ;)
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Think i,ll give it a go! Done them before many moons ago.Only concern is locking crank etc in place. Many thanks for all the help. going to buy 2.0 manual as advised.
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Think i,ll give it a go! Done them before many moons ago.Only concern is locking crank etc in place. Many thanks for all the help. going to buy 2.0 manual as advised.
Cam locking tool available from Draper or ebay about £5-6
No need to buy manual, PM me :y
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Locking the cams prior to belt refit will make life a lot easier; one of these (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Locking-Vauxhall-Ecotech-Engines/dp/B000MTRD0E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1285267284&sr=8-4) is almost certainly worth getting. May be even cheaper sources than Amazon though.
Good luck with it. Did our 2.0 last summer, basically just by following Haynes.
5 litres of genuine Vx antifreeze and a new gasket for the metal breather tube should probably go on your shopping list too (you'll want to remove it to clean it out thoroughly).
I recommend a 1/2" drive Tx55 bit, I sheared a 3/8" drive one on the first headbolt I tried to undo, with associated knuckle-damage. ::) :'( ;D
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Half way thru job.Replacing HG,water pump,cam belt kit.No problems so far.Just wondering how much those in the know on OOF would charge for this work and is there any local to me?
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Job done.Renewed H.G. Water pump,cambelt kit and all other gaskets.Used red antifreeze.Any advice on what to look out for in the next few weeks?
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Well done that man!
I'd be tempted to do an oil/filter change if that wasn't part of your re-assembly, as some bits of grime may have got in there. Other than that, just keep an eye on coolant level in case any air pockets bleed themselves out and lower the level.
Enjoy a car well fixed. ;)
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Oil and filter changed.Cleaned the breathers(again)too.
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Well done mate :y