Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Rainmaker on 07 October 2010, 19:24:31
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OK all , I've just been out in the car to take my daughter home and i had the red warning light come on twice for the temp, its cooled enough to look in the header and all's ok there normal level, what can cause this and what should i be looking for to rectify
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Any other symptoms such as; no hot air out of the heater, oil in the water in the header tank, when the car was hot were any of the radiator pipes hot or cold?
Lots of things could cause it, but we can narrow it down some hopefully..
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Any other symptoms such as; no hot air out of the heater, oil in the water in the header tank, when the car was hot were any of the radiator pipes hot or cold?
Lots of things could cause it, but we can narrow it down some hopefully..
ok sorry only extreme hot air in cabin cant seem to get it to run cold, no oil in header all ok, all rad pipes hot under bonnet, fans on high speed so there kicking in..????
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Hmm.. no cold in the cabin - it could be a failed HBV causing a pressure loss in the cooling system (assuming air mix doors are moving OK in the cabin system)..
Someone who knows more off the top of their head will respond shortly, I'm sure :)
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Possible water-pump failure?
Do you know when it was last changed?
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As said, water pump, blocked radiator core or perhaps thermostat (although they appear to fail open most of the time).
Is the whole radiator core piping hot by the time the fans come on? Both top and bottom hoses hot?
Kevin
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cambelt kit and water pump done in feb this year, im new to omegas so a bit lost here..
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i had this on my 4 pot. kept on getting hot so flushed it out new anti freeze seams fine now (touch wood) :)
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When was oil and oil filter last changed?
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When was oil and oil filter last changed?
it had a service in feb when the cambelt and water pump was done
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When did the light come on/ go back off?
While driving, sitting idling?
Any smell of overheating?
Thinking possibly a false reading from a dodgy temp sensor.
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When did the light come on/ go back off?
While driving, sitting idling?
Any smell of overheating?
Thinking possibly a false reading from a dodgy temp sensor.
came on when pulling up in traffic slow moving then again via the same reason did smell hot when i got home...was only going through town so 20-30 mph max
gonna try and pull the codes tomorrow just in case..
the last vauxhall i had well had 2 were cally v6's so know most of the common issues with the v6 bit lost as said here on the omega...
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ok just been out and done a paperclip test and im getting code 48....
done the test with engine running and without same code naturally without it running i got 31 aswell..
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;D ;D
Not a lot of help: 48 Battery voltage low.
31 just tells you the engines not running.
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;D ;D
Not a lot of help: 48 Battery voltage low.
31 just tells you the engines not running.
;D that i know myself as 31 is cranksensor but ill be testing the battery in the morn in daylight...
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I would go for the cheapest and easiest option first as suggested above. Drain and flush the system. Unless someone comes up with a better plan.
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I think I'd be considering a coolant change, with a very thorough flush of the radiator, remembering that all the horizontal pipes are in parallel, so just seeing a decent flow coming out doesn't mean that all the pipes are flowing clear.
Hosepipe on full mains pressure/flow for quite a while seems to me the best strategy, from both top-to-bottom and vice-versa, guiding the 'exit' flow away from stuff you don't want to wet as reqd.
Probably even better to remove the rad, so you can hose out the air fins as well. Bit more hassle though.
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thanks guys i have a high pressure system at my disposal so ov the weekend ill flush and renew the coolant...
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;D ;D
Not a lot of help: 48 Battery voltage low.
31 just tells you the engines not running.
;D that i know myself as 31 is cranksensor but ill be testing the battery in the morn in daylight...
For information only ;)
19 Incorrect RPM Signal - Faulty crank sensor
31 No Engine RPM Signal - Engine not running
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If you're going to flush it, might be worth pulling the water pump out just to make sure the impeller is intact? Will help you thoroughly flush the block anyway.
Kevin
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I had this exact same problem on my '99 3.0.
Turned out that the impellor on the water-pump was just spinning on its shaft!
Be careful though - if you change the water-pump by itself you will end up with a wet cambelt. Unless of course you protect the pump the deluge that will result.
You might as well flush the system while you are about it - dont forget to reverse flush the heater matrix to get the gunge out.
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Diagnosis = Failed water pump...
Thanks for the input all, looks like Ive got a weekend on the car already..
While i was sorting through a few things i tested the battery which passed OK as it was brand new in June 2010, seems the alternator is failing also so while I'm doing the water pump ill do the alternator as well..
so cam belt kit, water pump change and alternator