Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Vulpine on 21 August 2010, 20:55:19
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HI
ECU light is on, so have done paperclip test and got codes:
43: Invalid boost pressure
81: Sensor injection start short or open circuit
Anyone give any advice on what causes these bad boys?
Has anynoe got a number 4 injector and boost pressure sensor for sale or just to borrow to fault find with?? Really need help here :-/
cheers
Jon
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HI
Changed fuel filter to see if that was problem and now the car wont start at all!!
Getting close to scrapping her now!!! >:(
Any ideas or help?
cheers
Jon
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HI
Changed fuel filter to see if that was problem and now the car wont start at all!!
Getting close to scrapping her now!!! >:(
Any ideas or help?
cheers
Jon
This could leave you with an air lock in fuel line. Don't despair, more help will be along soon.
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OK it appears my lift pump is dead. runs slowly in air but not in diesel. Car wont start for more than a few seconds :(
Unless these are repairable i need a replacement. Anyone got one or know of a cheap supply?
I know it wont fix the error codes but cant do anything else until she runs.
cheers
Jon
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Have you checked the filter in the fuel tank. Cleaned mine about 3weeks ago and when I took it out I wondered how my car managed to run at all, there was so much sludge blocking it. See link to pump maintenance:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1251298222
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dont know how far you are from a dealer or a scrappy, but 16quid plus the dreaded a a puegeot dealer buys you a straight end bulb pump from a early hdi, cut the rubber incoming fuel pipe put the bulb pump in the line, squeeze repeatedly with bleed screw on filter open, when diesel appears shut bleed screw and start, this pump has a one way valve in it and will not allow diesel to return to the tank via the main fuel line, however it can via the return line so occasionally in the mornings you may need to give it a couple of pumps!! did this on mrs omegatoys omega td when the lift pump died and although the car was sold three years ago AND 43000 MILES LATER this ahem temporary fix is still going strong and the lift pump is still dead!!!
ditto the above for bulb pump from scrappy!! HTH :y
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oh btw i have a pump from a petrol omega. It looks slightly different to diesel one. Will it pump diesel? OR will it die very quickly? anyone know?
cheers
Jon
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rumour has it td used modded petrol pump but the petrol pump without modifying will try to pump the fuel at petrol presure for the injectors? wouldnt like to chance high pressure diesel going into the system!!! lol
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hi
good news, after looking at it all again, the pump does work, but the connector block in the tank lid seems to be the issue.
Filter was dirty but not too bad.
So i need to wire up a bypass to this and all should be ok again.
Will update tomorrow.
Back to the fault codes: 81 and 43 - anyine got any suggestions???
The petrol pump by the way, is much longer and my one is actually jammed. :(
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code 43-Try replacing the vac pipe. The pipe your looking for is the one that comes from under the manifold to the solinoid this could be clogged with oil.
code 81 is going to be the expensive one to fix I bought a injector4 in May and it set me back £156 on trade card also there's a 6 week wait for it.
Try taking it out, strip and clean it first :y
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Thanks for that
code43 - I have replaced the pipe - no change :(
code81 - I have stripped and cleaned the inj - no change :(
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OK fixed the lift pump - was the connector that clips onto the tank lid - tweeked that and engine fires up no probs.
But now the codes have changed:
code19 - Incorrect RPM Signal - new
code81 - Sensor injection start short or open circuit - same
Weird that it should change isnt it? Any ideas?
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The fact that 41 disappeared and 19 arrived (presumably) without you changing anything, especially as all three faults you've shown so far could be electrical, makes me wonder if you don't have a wiring fault somewhere on a common circuit..
I wonder if anyone has a wiring diagram handy to know if all three share a common ground or connector somewhere?
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Just somthing to try get a set of jumpleads and connect one from the negative on the battery to the engine and connect the other lead from the battery(negative) to the ecu.
This is to rule out a bad earth.
As for code 81 it looks like a new num 4 injector
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tried the jumpleads but no joy :(
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If code 19 shows with the managment light on then yes the crank sensor is dead its easy to replace just make sure its a dealer part and not off flea-bay.
What year is your car.
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1997
Just decoding wiring diagrams for the diesel. I will post here when done.
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ok here is the Engine Control Unit Circuit Wiring Diagram:
(http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af9/vulpine9/25tdlaterwiringannotated.png)
I think (please correct me if I am wrong) that all 3 items I have issues with share a common as suggested (circuits #323 to 333 at bottom).
Load Pressure Sensor (P65) = MAP Sensor = Fault Code 43?
Needle Movement Sensor (P66) = Injector 4 Sensor = Fault Code 81?
Crankshaft Sensor (P35) = Crankshaft Sensor = Fault Code 19?
Detail diagram to follow of this area.....
What does the dotted line represent on wires to P66 and P35?
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IIRC a dotted line like that indicates a shielded wire set (pair, in these cases) that is usually connected to ground somewhere along the line for noise suppression.
[edit] You're right on the function of those sensors, btw.. I'm having trouble deciphering what the shielding is tied in to, though - any chance of a larger pic so the original writing is readable? Assuming you have the original :)
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Here is a coloured in close up:
(http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af9/vulpine9/25tdlaterwiring-P65-P66-P35-K70.jpg)
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and a link to the full size original:
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af9/vulpine9/25tdlaterwiringfullsize.jpg
edit: ah fotobuket has resized so avail via email
Thanks to H@ynes
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Perfect :) (Didn't realise Haynes had wiring diagrams!)
What confuses me is pins 13 & 36 - they both appear to be tied to that line (which seems to go to ground through the MAF? At least that's the implication) .. 36 being on one side of a .. relay? Meaning pin 36 sees no ground continuity if that line becomes energised and offset from ground?
I'm not sure.. though, but you're right, they're all on a common circuit so maybe there's a break somewhere in that wire run..
[edit] What are P67 and S43 (top of the diagram)?
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line 36 is switched by temp sensor in the ECU box, i think..
P67 = Pedal Postion Sensor
S43 = Cruise Control Unit in Indicator Stalk
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oh and the crank sensor is approx £100 plus VAT from GM.
Anyone got spare one or know where to get it from cheaper! Partco and Interpart couldnt find it listed.
Even part numbers would help my search!
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I'll have another proper look at those diagrams tomorrow I think.
Oddly enough the crank sensor part came up just tonight in another post: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1282665059
Part number and trade prices there
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Ah here is the crank sensor position:
(http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af9/vulpine9/CrankSensor.png)
and the full page here:
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af9/vulpine9/CrankSensorFullDesc.png
Need to set its distance from the flywheel when replacing - anyone know the air gap required?
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oh and the crank sensor is approx £100 plus VAT from GM.
Anyone got spare one or know where to get it from cheaper! Partco and Interpart couldnt find it listed.
Even part numbers would help my search!
Just bought one today for £83.87 +vat on trade card
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BTW some of the crank sensors for other omega's ie 3.0 v6 etc look very similar. Any idea if the sensor fits any other engines from omega's or other cars?
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BTW some of the crank sensors for other omega's ie 3.0 v6 etc look very similar. Any idea if the sensor fits any other engines from omega's or other cars?
no the only ones that fit are for the x25td or the u25td engine
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Ah here is the crank sensor position:
(http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af9/vulpine9/CrankSensor.png)
and the full page here:
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af9/vulpine9/CrankSensorFullDesc.png
Need to set its distance from the flywheel when replacing - anyone know the air gap required?
From what I can see in TIS:
Air gap is fixed by the position of the 'sensor holder' which is in turn set using a special tool Reference Gauge KM-810-A .
So if you hav'nt removed the holder from the block you should be able to pop the sensor back in.
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Have changed clutch today (see another post for details) and code 19 has gone. :D
All i did was clean all the iron filings of the end.
The air gap on mine was 0.42mm.
So the search goes on for a used or new #4 injector......
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Have you tried cleaning the injector by removing it and stripping it? There is a great little guide in the maintenance section.
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Yes done that and it was o so clean already lol.
Look like the sensor can be removed but didnt try that yet.
Also, I only had one washer inside the injector but the guide shows 2off?
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Has anyone seen tigers_gonads on recently? He was breaking a TD but hasn't been on since the 17th of August. Worth a PM maybe :y
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RESULT!!! ;D
All fixed - replaced number four injector froma local scrap yard and all is go again. I am sure it was that VPower fuel that killed it. >:(
Only cost £40 - plus the scrappies has loads of Omegas and at least 2off good 2.5td engines. If you need anything give Shaun at call @ Ashford Vauxhall Spares and said I sent you on 01233 820135 Ashford, Kent TN26 3JP (http://www.ashfordvauxhallspares.co.uk/)
Thanks to everyone for your help, much appreciated. :y
Jon Fox
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Well done Vulpine. Admire your perseverance. :y
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BTW everyone, i have a spare crank sensor for sale if anyone needs one - PM me etc