Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: GmasterT on 29 November 2010, 11:03:21
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It seems after leaving it a few hours, it only wants to start when the cas under the starter is unplugged (normally while attached to another car for jumper power!)
Once running for a min, it drops the idel, skips abit and throws the gearbox into safe mode. I gather then that the cas is knackered?
Also, replaced the 2 seals for the oil cooler going intothe oil filter housing and its now leaking worse than before.
Just wanted to run this by you guys as with all the time and money spent on it, if it doesnt start behaving soon, Im getting shot >:( :'(
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£100 + vat for the sensor? :o Surely not!
I get the impression its genuine part only? :-/
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I'd only ever buy genuine crank sensors.
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I know what youre saying, but if this isnt the cure then I would have spent another £100 on it, only for it to be beaten with a large hammer and fire!!!!
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What codes are you getting from it (if any)?
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Pity we aren't nearer, you could have temporarily borrowed the one out of mine to confirm.
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Code 31... and the fact it only wants to start (eventually!) with the thing unplugged ::)
And yeah... thanks though :y
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Right... Im close to getting rid of it now! :-? :'(
Changed the crank sensor, no difference :(
Still have to unplug it, eventually get it going then plug it back in again. After that it will start fine, unless left for over 8 hours or so.
Getting codes 31 (No rpm signal - Is the crank sensor the only thing that this would indicate too?) and 48 low battery, which I am not suprised as its been getting a caning recently. Also been having to hit the starter now as its getting warm through constant cranking, its just over a year old and I cant face buying another, but I have run out of ideas now :( :( :(
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The only reason you're getting code 31 is because your engine is not running i.e. no RPM
signal.
Ignore that it's not part of your problem.
Code 19 is the crank sensor error.
Are you getting fuel?
Are you getting a spark at the plugs?
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I ran it into work with both of those codes flashing at me the whole way though...
Getting fuel, has over a 3rd of a tank and a new lift pump arrangement, plus its churning out the black smoke when cranking.
Doesnt have spark... TD :)
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IF this on the td it sounds like a fuel drainback problem?
if its a petrol version then ignore this post!!!
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I ran it into work with both of those codes flashing at me the whole way though...
Getting fuel, has over a 3rd of a tank and a new lift pump arrangement, plus its churning out the black smoke when cranking.
Doesnt have spark... TD :)
aha ign ore my last post!! if its chucking out black smoke when being cranked then the problem is not fuel, sounds more like a timing issue to me?
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maybe timing... but as I say, it starts with it unplugged from cold. Plus, Im sure that even though it will need the glow plugs/cold start from when I came to work this morning, if I go to start it again now I know it would...
The new lift pump is glugging away... however, the more I think about it, the more I feel its fuel related... Possibley fuel system losing pressure somewhere across the day?
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I ran it into work with both of those codes flashing at me the whole way though...
There is no way you should be getting a code 31 when the engine is running.
The fact that you're getting black smoke when cranking indicates you are getting enough fuel, maybe even too much.
I can only refer you back to welung's post, try and get hold of a genuine Vauxhall crank sensor.
What code reader are you using which is flashing code 19 and 31 while you're driving?
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Its a genuine but 2nd hand known working crank sensor. And it was paperclip flashes on the way to work :)
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Well if your absolutely certain it's a working sensor, that only leaves the plug and socket to check.
Making sure the plug is seated properly a squirt of switch cleaner onto the connections may help.
:-/
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as I said, its a td and Ive had all the injectors etc out and had a general clean up.
Just started it again, went 2nd attempt after a 2nd glow up. Ticking over rough and still flashing the same 2 codes...
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as I said, its a td and Ive had all the injectors etc out and had a general clean up.
Just started it again, went 2nd attempt after a 2nd glow up. Ticking over rough and still flashing the same 2 codes...
When I said plug, I meant the connector on the crank sensor, not spark plug.
Also reading from another post, is the sensor itself seated properly.
Quote:
My fault really, when I have taken out the old crank sensor I never noticed the old oil seal has not came with it, so when I have put the new sensor in it has not seated correctly and not made correct contact. Old seal removed and cleaned, new sensor fitted and hey presto fires first time. Eml light clears also, quick code check and all clear.
Unquote.
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I am confiedent the plug is ok as to get it started I have to unplug it and keep cranking. Once she fires, it sits around 2.5k rpm untill I plug it back in again and it instantly drops the revs to tick over. I let it run for a min then turn it off then back on again and its fine.
The sensor I got came in the 'cradle' too, which I removed and fitted to the one already on the car. There is a groove in the old sensor where it clearly once rubbed the pick up points, but seems it was alway like that in my ownership as I have never felt resistance from the pick up points anytime I have touched the sensor or when I rotated the fly from when I first got the car and changed the gearbox.
However, when I got it started (with the plug removed as it wouldnt go otherwise) after changing it last night, I went to refit the plug and felt the markers hitting it, so adjusted back just off the point of contact. And again, once its started it runs ok bar a lumpy idle.
The only other thing I can think of is the TD Filter. It is a patent and I noticed a slightly different design to the (patent) one I took off. As soon as I get the chance I will get a genuine one on there. Thinking behind it is the fact its fine or ok after a few hours once its been run and its having issues drawing the fuel up initially for whatever reason...
(Edit) Just to add, I did not notice an oil seal on either of the sensors, nothing fell out, but I was scrabbling around a bit in the dark ::)
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Just to add, I did not notice an oil seal on either of the sensors, nothing fell out, but I was scrabbling around a bit in the dark
The reference to the seals would only affect petrol engines.
I am at a loss to suggest what else to try. Maybe try going the route that Omegatoy suggested re fuel drainback, it is possible to fit a one way valve to eliminate this, but I can't fathom why you still have the codes 31 and 19.
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Wont the codes keep showing up until they're cleared from the ECU? :-/
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Wont the codes keep showing up until they're cleared from the ECU? :-/
Not sure about the 19 but the 31 wouldn't.
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31 and 48 :)
And it started, 1st time, one glow of the plugs this morning... odd... but in a good way :D
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31 and 48 :)
And it started, 1st time, one glow of the plugs this morning... odd... but in a good way :D
Hmm is that the first time you started it from cold with the c/s in its new no contact postion?
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No, tried after fitting 1st time (although it was interfering) so yesterday morning would have been its first real attempt that it failed on and resorted to me pulling the plug to start.
Started it at lunch and twice in the afternoon before leaving for home yesterday, but then that has proven to help before anyway, so will leave it for the day today and see :)
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After being perfect yesterday, both in the morning and evening after not touching it, it didnt start this morning and I had to go through the 'starting procedure' again :'(
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Just picked this out from one of your previous posts.
There is a groove in the old sensor where it clearly once rubbed the pick up points,
There must be an air gap between the sensor and the pickup points. I don't know what that gap should be, but if the cradle hasn't been moved then the sensor should be at the correct gap when seated properly.
If the cradle has been moved then it needs to be reset.
If you can find out what the gap should be then it will eliminate this as the problem.
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Right, just had a look. Played with a few wires on the pump. one on the back of my pump seems to go into loom under the glow plugs. there is some distress in the sheathing for it, but the wires seem intact.
Anyway, I then started it, it ran lumpy and cut out. same again twice more. Gave it some throttle for a min and it seemed better although ticking over rough again. fiddled with the wire while running and no real difference. It still ticks over like its got a miss or hunting. When warmed up a bit its slightly better and fairly smooth when given throttle. Tension Idler seems to rock about a bit when ticking over though...
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When it is refusing to start, do you get fuel at the injectors (with the CAS connected)??? Crack the HP Pipes at the injectors to confirm...
If you don't, I would be looking at the CAS, either failed, or interference destroying its signal...
Mine last year would not start, except with the CAS disconnected, there was no fuel at the injectors either with the CAS connected, mine was caused by the starter motor being loose and destroying the signal...
IMO if the engine starts every time with the CAS disconnected, then it would be part of the problem, if not the whole problem...
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Getting fuel and checked the wires/cas. No it doesnt want to tick over at all when cold which I think is now why it wont start, still only 8 more posts before I can stick it up in for sales haha >:( ::) ;D :'(
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is it an auto?
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Yeah, AR35 and everyfink! ::)
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Well, Ive resorted to fiddling with the position of th td pump. changed the atmosphere filter thing which ssemed to help although it was warm. Didnt risk starting with the cas plugged in today, but it started straight off. Will see in the morning.
Will plug away for as long as pos as it is a lovely car, but getting fed up! Think I may try and swap it for a 3.2 special as I miss mine :(
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right, the plot thickens! Still didnt want to start this morning, after getting it going it still want idling right, I stopped it and took the battery off for a bit of a charge and give the ecu time to reset itself so I could recheck the codes.
Re start and re check, same, 31 & 48. Now although I gather the rpm signal comes off the cas, td's of old also/tend to pick up off the alt. I had a look while it running lumpy and I thought the tensioner looked a bit iffy. Took it off and one of the mounts have snapped! Next step find another one of those as it looks fairly alloy and unweldable :-X
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now getting 19 and 41 >:(
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19 is crank sensor i think which would flag up when you start it without it connected?
cant remember what 41 is!! goes off to check it
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19 is crank sensor i think which would flag up when you start it without it connected?
cant remember what 41 is!! goes off to check it
boost preasure voltage low :y
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boost preasure voltage low - what does that mean then :-?
And my 19, I still have rpm reading on the dash and code 31
I have mucked about with the position of the [ump. Not sure it ticks over better but it feels faster! ::) Not entirely what I was after!
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boost preasure voltage low - what does that mean then :-?
And my 19, I still have rpm reading on the dash and code 31
I have mucked about with the position of the [ump. Not sure it ticks over better but it feels faster! ::) Not entirely what I was after!
usuallly means the preesure sensor is blocked with gunge or the hose has a split in it, litle dificult to get to as it sits on the undersiode of the manifold, should be able to replace the hose easy enough but if the inlet is full of blak gunge then whipping it off would definetly help matters, may also help starting so it can get some air?
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Ok, It didnt start again this morning, even with the cas disconnected, so I adjusted the pump back towards the block a bit and it started and ticks over ok (yey!) I also found the slightest of leaks on no.1 injector going into the block (bubbles after filling up the 'port' with ez start after check for leaks) so cleaned up and hopefull solved the not starting after leaving for a while mystery!
Also, blew threw the boost solinoid pip and seems clear.
Started at lunch ok and seems to be pulling stonger than before. If it behaves tomorrow then I will sort the oil leak and treat it to an oil change ::)
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Ok, It didnt start again this morning, even with the cas disconnected, so I adjusted the pump back towards the block a bit and it started and ticks over ok (yey!) I also found the slightest of leaks on no.1 injector going into the block (bubbles after filling up the 'port' with ez start after check for leaks) so cleaned up and hopefull solved the not starting after leaving for a while mystery!
Also, blew threw the boost solinoid pip and seems clear.
Started at lunch ok and seems to be pulling stonger than before. If it behaves tomorrow then I will sort the oil leak and treat it to an oil change ::)
I know how your feeling at the mo been there done that.
You should tighten the injectors if no-1 is bubbling this will effect running as compression needs to be good.
Also replace air and fuel filter.I change my fuel filter every 8 weeks in winter.
The bottom line it looks like your going to need a new fuel pump in the near future :(
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Cheers Hoofin, especially with the tips and pics you sent :y
I hope I dont need a pump, if it does it'll have to go! I will keep an eye out for one or probably more likey a donor car in manual flavour and just fit the whole engine and box. Or swap this beast with a 3.2 ;D
It did start this morning though (WOOOOO!!!) smidgen lumpy on idle still, but a touch of gas to keep it at 1k rpm for a min and she was happy enough to tick over from lumpy to pretty smooth :)
The battery seems to have taken a turn for the worse though due to the beating its got from the booster pack, will have to see how it turns out, but I really cannot face more big money on the thing untill it starts returning some investment! Losing the love a bit :(
Fingers crossed and thanks all :y
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heres hoping it does start 2moro!!! :y
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Er... it didnt tonight >:(
Unplugged the cas again and it went ok... Im sure its this cold idleing thats the issue, but you can only test cold starting twice a day!
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Er... it didnt tonight >:(
Unplugged the cas again and it went ok... Im sure its this cold idleing thats the issue, but you can only test cold starting twice a day!
Got anyone near you with a tech2? you need them to reset the tickover i reckon, however with you swinging the pump back and forth it could just be the throttle position sensor in the pump, have you tried giving the side of the pump a sharp tap when its cold to seat the sensor? have heard of a bodge to set it but never tried it meself!!
basically you loosen the top bolts on the pump then give it a sharp jolt with an adjusting hammer, this moves the sensor ever so slightly and gives a higher tickover, then tighten the bolts back up, down side is iuf it goes wrong the car ticks over at around 2000rpm!!! lol on balance think i would get a tech2 person to reset your tickovver!! anyone near you?
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Ummm, dunno about anyone with a tech2 nearby, As for the idle, its fine when warm, even after 30 secs of high revs starting with the cas unplugged it ticks over ok when its plugged back in again. It stutters a bit threatening to go, but just doesnt want to 'catch'
Grrr, F**king diesels!
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Is the earth wire to the engine ok.
Try putting a direct earth to the ecu from the battery(use a jump lead and clip it to the metal casing of the ecu and the other end to the negative).
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Cheers mate, will do, got to go and rescue my 2.0 wagon from storage 1st tonight!
Whats the round thing above the ecu with 2 wires going into it by the way?
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Cheers mate, will do, got to go and rescue my 2.0 wagon from storage 1st tonight!
Whats the round thing above the ecu with 2 wires going into it by the way?
They detect High temp in the ecu and shut the car down if the ecu gets to hot.
Ive never seen one do this yet
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Just got home, after my old 2.0 failed to start after I was dropped off at it, to then get a train and lift to work to then have this not start, its going up for sale tomorrow, It would be an awesome car, but I just dont have the time, money or any more patience for it especially as I am relying on it for my new job... gutted.
Dunno what its worth, but know what it (bloody well!) owes me!
>:( :( :'( >:( :( :'(