Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Oh on 29 December 2010, 21:16:05
-
Hey guys so i've had my 2001 Catera Sport for about 8 months or so. I bought the car with 60k original miles and a blown motor for a whopping $500. I replaced the motor and got the beast running. I had a stereo/TC light/sunroof/gas cover issue, replaced a fuse in the engine bay and the issues were resolved.
I have since been having issues with the infamous limp mode, and it seems pretty random. Here's what i've gathered so far. It generally happens on warmer days more often, although it still happens in cold days after a bit of driving. EX spent about an hour mostly under 15mph cruising around a neighborhood with a lot of steep hills admiring christmas lights and ornaments and as i was making a u turn at a culd-e-sac(SP) limp mode kicked in and my sport light started flashing.
Shifting is also an issue. When the car is initially on, it will sometimes not want to shift to 2nd after taking off. When this happens shifting is generally a little rough and sometimes jumpy, not through all gears but it's a guessing game. This is also random. It doesn't happen all the time. The car sometimes runs smooth and shifting issues are hardly noticeable. Although it happens more often than not.
I went in and did a fluid change since I wasn't aware of any service history, I was sure it couldn't be horrible with 60k original miles on the vehicle. When I took it in I had them check the codes since If the car goes into limp mode twice the same day the CEL will come on. They gave me a code P0743. From what i've gathered, it's a code for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid.
Since i'm still having issues with the sunroof randomly opening and closing I'm a little concerned that it could possibly be an electrical issue and not necessarily a $200 with a probable $300 labor charge. I would be willing to crack the tranny open but to be honest I'm not comfortable enough to do it by myself since i'm sure i'm lacking some necessary tools.
BTW. If i shift the car to 1st and manually shift to 2nd and D and so forth the tranny slips going into 2nd every time.
I appreciate any help and advice. Thanks for your time!.
-
Firstly... the sunroof. Totally unconnected, try the reset on it. Turn to fully open and hold the switch in during the movement and for about 5 seconds after it has completed the cycle. Switch to tilt and hold the switch in again as before, then do the same for closed. This will reset the sunroof.
As for the trans... Was the fluid filled with the engine running and the car level?
-
Yeah. I took a look at the fluid as it was drained and it seemed fairly cleans still, the filter had dust sized specs but they were barely noticeable. I would say and the mechanic agreed that the fluid was in good shape and he had no concern about giving me the warranty cause of it. Before they started putting oil back in they started the car and raised it back up on the lift and filled it until it topped off and spilled a little bit back out.
-
Yeah. I took a look at the fluid as it was drained and it seemed fairly cleans still, the filter had dust sized specs but they were barely noticeable. I would say and the mechanic agreed that the fluid was in good shape and he had no concern about giving me the warranty cause of it. Before they started putting oil back in they started the car and raised it back up on the lift and filled it until it topped off and spilled a little bit back out.
Did they follow that by selecting each gear in turn then taking it around the block and re-checking the fluid level?
-
I don't believe so. They topped it off and sent me on my merry way. It wasn't a full flush, they drained the fluid from the pan and took the pan off changed filters put the pan back on and filled. About how much fluid do you think could be potentially missing? and could this cause rough shifting and sport light to come on.
Also I forgot to mention. The sport light has come on with sudden breaking, I noticed that the car sometimes tries to downshift when I've had to break fairly hard. I have put the trans in neutral to test the hard breaking issue and it hasn't come on but maybe once under the same situation.
It also happened on a round about ramp to the interstate at about 30-45mph.
-
You can never fully drain the ATF, I can normally get about 6 litres (just shy of 11 fl oz) back in after both trans sumps have been off.
It could be a sticking solonoid but you need a good quality GM code reader on it to read, clear and re-read the fault codes stored in the trans ECU.
-
I tried getting the codes read at autozone, (they claim on tv that they'll read your codes for free) and every autozone that i've visited all say that they wont do it. So I had the trans guy who changed the fluid check it out but he had a small reader he claimed wouldn't find all the issues that a quality code reader would.
My other 3 options are take it to the stealership and fork out the benjamins to get it checked out. Take it to a cadillac specialist the only one i've found within 50 miles of where i live or hit up the boneyard i picked up my motor from and have a tranny installed I was quoted $700 for the trans and labor.
I'm probably going to have to pay a visit to the specialist and see what he says. Last time I talked to him he said something like $70 per hour for troubleshooting. Just troubleshooting. I asked him if I could use some lube so it wouldn't hurt so much and he laughed. The only upside is that he offered a free oil change since I was a new customer.
-
You can never fully drain the ATF, I can normally get about 6 litres (just shy of 11 fl oz) back in after both trans sumps have been off.
It could be a sticking solonoid but you need a good quality GM code reader on it to read, clear and re-read the fault codes stored in the trans ECU.
6 litres equates to about 210 fluid ounces, I think?? :-/
-
I tried getting the codes read at autozone, (they claim on tv that they'll read your codes for free) and every autozone that i've visited all say that they wont do it. So I had the trans guy who changed the fluid check it out but he had a small reader he claimed wouldn't find all the issues that a quality code reader would.
My other 3 options are take it to the stealership and fork out the benjamins to get it checked out. Take it to a cadillac specialist the only one i've found within 50 miles of where i live or hit up the boneyard i picked up my motor from and have a tranny installed I was quoted $700 for the trans and labor.
I'm probably going to have to pay a visit to the specialist and see what he says. Last time I talked to him he said something like $70 per hour for troubleshooting. Just troubleshooting. I asked him if I could use some lube so it wouldn't hurt so much and he laughed. The only upside is that he offered a free oil change since I was a new customer.
Pretty pointless as you've just had it done!
I'm sending you a PM with an eBay link which may save you a few dollars getting the codes read ;) :y
-
You can never fully drain the ATF, I can normally get about 6 litres (just shy of 11 fl oz) back in after both trans sumps have been off.
It could be a sticking solonoid but you need a good quality GM code reader on it to read, clear and re-read the fault codes stored in the trans ECU.
6 litres equates to about 210 fluid ounces, I think?? :-/
Well spotted ;D ;D I need new batteries in this keyboard as it keeps missing letters out! I meant 'just shy of 211 fl oz'. Thanks for spotting it H21 :y
-
You can never fully drain the ATF, I can normally get about 6 litres (just shy of 11 fl oz) back in after both trans sumps have been off.
It could be a sticking solonoid but you need a good quality GM code reader on it to read, clear and re-read the fault codes stored in the trans ECU.
6 litres equates to about 210 fluid ounces, I think?? :-/
Well spotted ;D ;D I need new batteries in this keyboard as it keeps missing letters out! I meant 'just shy of 211 fl oz'. Thanks for spotting it H21 :y
I dunno if a UK pint is the same as a US pint but according to my wifes flour measuring jug in the kitchen, thats what the sums work out at! ;D
-
UK pint = 20 fl oz or 568ml
US pint = 16 fl oz or 473ml
:y
-
Sweet!. Thanks for the link. How accurate do you think it is? Have you used it? It's a reasonable price but it seems a little primitive.
-
We don't have Cadi's here but I have something similar that reads the codes for any OBDII compliant vehicles (which yours is) and clears them. You may have to google the codes though as that one doesn't have the option to describe the fault as mine does.
Try searching the UK eGay (www.ebay.co.uk) for something like the Sealey VS8700 and see if they ship to the US as they are a similar deal but with a better readout :y
-
Thanks. I'll try to take a look for the best deal since i'm on a tight unemployed budget since i got laid off a while back.
-
As already mentioned, the sunroof problem is totally unrelated and is a known problem.
The official word goes like this:
Complaint : Sunroof opens by self-operation, especially at high air humidity and cold ambient temperatures.
Cause: Electronic fault caused by humidity in the drive unit.
Remedy : Replace drive unit.
Members here have had some success by cleaning the magnetic disc inside the unit, this will explain:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1247486519
-
As already mentioned, the sunroof problem is totally unrelated and is a known problem.
The official word goes like this:
Complaint : Sunroof opens by self-operation, especially at high air humidity and cold ambient temperatures.
Cause: Electronic fault caused by humidity in the drive unit.
Remedy : Replace drive unit.
Members here have had some success by cleaning the magnetic disc inside the unit, this will explain:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1247486519
Mine also does it ocsnly, it resets OK as above, but to be honest, with climate control I really don't need it, so run with the fuse out. :y
-
check the resistance of your solenoids,17.5 to 18.5 ohms.+ or - dump em. :y
-
You mean the solenoid on the tranny?. I don't really have the tools to crack the tranny open so i'm kinda assed out.
-
BTW thanks for the link Kneepad. I'll try to crack it open in the next day or 2 to see if it solves it. BTW living in southern california you gotta have a sunroof/convertible top. It's always sunny. I love cruising around with the roof open day and night, except when it rains of course. And oddly enough this year we've had more rain than the last 3 or 4 years put together already.
-
Solenoids are accessible once the transmission fluid sump pan is removed. :y
-
Gotcha. I might have to see if I can crack it open. my biggest concern is being unable to put the fluid back in.
Just to verify. Is this pan the one you're speaking of?
(http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8207/cateratrans.jpg) (http://img515.imageshack.us/i/cateratrans.jpg/)
-
The converter solenoid can be got at in the small sump as you have arrowed.
The 1-2/3-4 and 2-3 solenoids can be accessed after removing the main sump.
Well worth checking them all while you're in there.
Here is a guide that will help with getting the fluid back in:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1289757627
-
So i'm curious. I know the write up said to drain the fluid through the drain plug on the large sump/pan. Could I leave the large sump sealed up and drain the fluid through the small sump in front?
I wouldn't want to half ass the job but It would make life a lot easier if I could get away with draining the least amount of fluid necessary. I would "assume" it's possible although i'm sure it would make a big mess as it would end up dripping all around the sump. If it is possible to just crack open the small sump about how much fluid do you think I would get?
-
Never done as you suggest. I know where you're coming from, but it's going to messy.
Automatic transmission (approximate):
From dry . . . . 8.4 litres
After removing main sump . . 4.4 litres
There won't be that much in the small sump.
Maybe someone else can give some input on this.
-
So i'm curious. I know the write up said to drain the fluid through the drain plug on the large sump/pan. Could I leave the large sump sealed up and drain the fluid through the small sump in front?
I wouldn't want to half ass the job but It would make life a lot easier if I could get away with draining the least amount of fluid necessary. I would "assume" it's possible although i'm sure it would make a big mess as it would end up dripping all around the sump. If it is possible to just crack open the small sump about how much fluid do you think I would get?
A slight misread here, it says 4. Position oil tray/old washing up bowl under level plug. This is situated half way up the drivers side of the rear (biggest) sump. You'll know it when you see it, it's not a drain plug hence not at the lowest point. Slacken level plug (13mm IIRC), don't fully remove, let ATF flow out into your container (not a great deal at this point). Be very careful as you are working near the cat. converters which will be quite hot even after your short drive. Hand tight level plug - to avoid spillage when sump comes off.
This is the level plug, there is no drain plug, so once the excess has drained through the level plug, you have to remove the sump(s) to drain the rest of the ATF. To be frank, if you are dropping one sump, you would be advised to do both, replace or clean the filter, and refill with fresh ATF in accordance with the guide. HTH :y :y :y
-
I was just wondering since I replaced the fluid and gaskets less than 500 miles ago. Trying to avoid buying new gaskets and finding a container big enough to hold all the oil. I guess there's no good way around it though.
-
Having done it recently, it will be difficult to (a) Save all the fluid and (b) keep it clean for reuse. The filter will be OK. :y
-
So I decided to drop by the Cadillac specialist, just a "Caddy Shop" mind you not the stealership. I tried asking the guy for a quote and he didn't want to give me a #. So I explained to him the issue and told him I've read the codes and did my research. He responded by saying how he had to hook up a computer and drive around to find the issue, and the cost for a diagnosis would be from $50-100. He said I couldn't just bring the car in when the issue comes up and tranny and check engine light came on. I told him I'd prefer not to waste his time or my fuel.
He was polite enough to check on his computer for the possible issues for the code I told him. I went ahead and explained to him that I had an offer for a boneyard tranny install parts + labor at $700 to which he immediately replied that he didn't think he could beat that and I should go for it. He wanted to charge me $400 for a sensor that is $200. And he said that for cracking the tranny open it would cost at least $1400 and up.
::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)
I told him I'd rather buy myself a nice toolbox, tools and do the job myself for that price.
-
Solenoids are accessible once the transmission fluid sump pan is removed. :y
This might be a silly question.....
Why do you need to get to the solenoids to measure their resistance? isn't there a multiplug beteen the tranny and the ECU where you can measure the resistances?
-
Solenoids are accessible once the transmission fluid sump pan is removed. :y
This might be a silly question.....
Why do you need to get to the solenoids to measure their resistance? isn't there a multiplug beteen the tranny and the ECU where you can measure the resistances?
Please do go on! I would really appreciate it. :)
-
I don't know the answer but I feel certain that the wiring inside the transmission will run straight out to a multiplug where you should be able to measure the resistances (if you can access it and if you know which pin is which)
Have you seen the articles in this maintenance thread? 4L30E transmission (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1183545931)
The second one (by a US based transmission specialist) looks particularly informative.
-
Solenoids are accessible once the transmission fluid sump pan is removed. :y
This might be a silly question.....
Why do you need to get to the solenoids to measure their resistance? isn't there a multiplug beteen the tranny and the ECU where you can measure the resistances?
Apologies if this seemed misleading, but was only pointing out to Oh how to gain access to the solenoids.
-
I've ruled out the transmission. I took the car to a mechanic. Had the whole transmission replaced and still have the problem. Any idea what else it could be? At this point i'm praying it's not the ridiculously expensive computer.