Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Lesopc on 08 February 2011, 11:30:08
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What is the quickest and cheapest way to treat this problem and also is it very common on the later Miggies. The rust is only minor but is starting to affect the paint now. Thanks guy's.
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IME with other cars once the tinworm sets in there isnt much you can do short of cutting out the wholel panel. This is expensive.
I have rust on the NSR arch of my Omega , its also done 160k miles. In a years time it will end up on ebay and probably sell for a give away price as people will buy high milers but not when they get rusty IME.
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Most of the facelift metal work is galvanised, around 70/80% i think. They are better on rust that those nasty pre-facelifts :P :P ;D
But with anything, depends how well it was cared for by previous owners.
I'd be tempted by professional body shop for rust :y
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Unfortunately there is no easy way to treat rear wheel arch corrosion because usually when it starts blistering on the outside its got well underway on the inside. A repair will require removal and replacement of the entire arch, lots of cutting welding and painting. Anyone who had a Vauxhall Senator will probably be very familiar with this scenario. Most bodyshops wont want to touch the job as unless every last bit of tinworm is found and removed a few months later you'll be back complaing about the fresh rust bubbles. Too much hassle they'd rather just replace panels on insurance jobs. You'll need to find a panel beater who does restorations (I know a good one in Kent). It cost me £500 a corner on a Senator over 12 years ago so not cheap :-[ You could get a quick and cheap cosmetic job done but the rust will likely return pretty quickly. I think you've been unlucky to get this problem on a late miggy as they are much better then their predecessor in terms of corrosion.
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Mark DTM and several others recommend this stuff. :y
http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html
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Thouroughly douse the area with a thin penatatrive rust preventing oil like Supertrol, and it will be a long time before it gets any worse :y
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What is the quickest and cheapest way to treat this problem and also is it very common on the later Miggies. The rust is only minor but is starting to affect the paint now. Thanks guy's.
I have tried chemicals to remove, etch primer, body colour and laquer. then the rubber edging from a rover 216 rear arch packed with silicone grease......time will tell!
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It does seem like the only rust on the whole car but over time i can only see it getting worse. I have no idea of the cost of buying and fitting of whole rear panels. I would guess it would take a lot of work too, especially on the fuel flap side. Any advice guy's????
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I very much doubt you would need to go to that extreme but to do the job correctly you would probably need new wheel arches. The problem is that the tinworm gets hold behind the arch so no matter how much you treat the corrosion on the outside the real nasty stuff on the inside will remain untouched. The job is perfectly possible but most be done correctly or you will have wasted your money on an expensive paint job that quickly becomes full of new rust bubbles. I used a small coachworks in Sidcup in South East London who I found through an elderly neighbour with a Rover P5 which had quite a bit of work done.
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Look at it closely, as its a facelift you will probably find that the paint has peeled off due to the zinc oxidising, this is easier to treat and sort.
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Mark DTM and several others recommend this stuff. :y
http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html
Bilt and Hamber gear is fantastic! :y