Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: erubus on 14 May 2011, 12:29:53
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Hi guys finally got the car on the road yesterday. Got to tesco and back, about 2 miles, then the engine cut out and refused to start. Same symptoms as crank sensor though ive just replaced it. Left battery disconnected overnight but its not got any better.
Also the autobox still isnt working. Topped up fluid and cleamed the selector switch but only getting 1st which stays in till about 4000 rpm then bangs into third and stays there.
Tbh im about done with this car. Ive spent hundreds and hundreds and only managed to get about tgirty miles in the last year. Typically enough the landys off the road now!
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Any codes still there?
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Cam sensor could cause all that lot as I understand it, need to check codes with a reader as said. Check Autobox and engine ecu's. If you see a cam sensor address that first and see.
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Cam sensor could cause all that lot as I understand it, need to check codes with a reader as said. Check Autobox and engine ecu's. If you see a cam sensor address that first and see.
It certainly does - in my case it was difficult starting, limp mode and a raft of gearbox codes - all sorted by a new sensor and a bottle of Jimbob's jungle juice. (Wynn's injector cleaner)
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just got code 0335, haven't checked what it is yet. cam sensor is brand new GM OEM, crank sensor just replaed with a known good one......
gonna check the codes jus now.
edit: how do i check the gearbox codes?
gill
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crankshaft sensor......surprise surprise. that tells me pretty much nothing as i'd be gettingthat code anyway.
the wire on the old sensor had degraded and the copper was exposed. wonder i that's blown the ecu or something? wouldn't explain how it ran perfectly before simply cutting out/eml/not starting
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Tried pulling the cam sensor while the engine was running and it killed the engine immediately suggesting the crank sensor is dead.
Amy suggestions as to why the engine is eating so many sensors. 3 cam sensors and two crank sensors in a total of about 45 miles jus cannae be right!
Gill
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The code suggests crank sensor, as do the symptoms.
Have you put on a brand new GM crank sensor?
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I changed the cam sensor for a brand new gm one aftar it packed up after the mot, but the crank sensor i just put on was off the old engine. I presume its a gen part, its seimans i think or maybe bosch. Was told it was working perfectly when i had a diagnostic done on that engine so cant think why its broke now. Also why it ran so well beforehand. Suggests to me that the engine/loom is doing somethimg thats breaking them.
As for the gearbox, ive decided to ditch the auto and put in the manual from the carlonator. Only problems i can think of is im sure the carlonator has a cable clutch zo might have problems fitting pedal box and im sure it has a cable speedo which is also gonna cause a problem
Any thoughts guys?
Cheers gill
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So the crank sensor - that part that the ECU is flagging, and that match the symptoms - is an unknown as to whether it works?
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Crank sensor wiring is a bit of a frailty on miggies. I'd not be a bit surprised if moving anything but a really 'fresh' one from one engine to another cuased it to fail.
I replaced the one on ours pre-emptively as the outer insulation was cracking off the cable; then dissected the thing to see what was inside.
The state of the wiring adjacent to the sensor itself was something to behold. All the insulation between the inner cores had turned to dust, and the slightest flexing would have caused it to go short-circuit. I'm amazed it was still working faultlessly when removed.
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Ill get a brand new oem one on monday. Hopefully that'll sort the problems! Not convinced it'll help with the gearbox problems. Think ill just have to go ahead with the gearbox swap i think. If the holes for the clutch pedal box dont match up, hopefully, with a bit of drilling and fabrication it'll work well enough. I can live with a temp cable speedo stuck somewhere until i can get an electrobic one sorted. Probs have to get the rear section off a miggy box or late carlton one for thst though i would yhink.
Applogies for the spelling btw. A combination of iphone amd drunkeness.
Gill
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The gearbox relies on the engine RPM to know when to change gear.
The gearbox ECU reads speed sensors inside the gearbox. If the RPM signal from the engine ECU isn't within the range expected by the gearbox ECU it will throw up spurious error codes.
Any gearbox codes concerning 'incorrect speed' need to be taken with a pinch of salt until you are absolutely certain that the crank sensor and cam sensor are 100%
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Iwould suggest a more systematic approach tbh.
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Oh right i thought it was just the cam sensor the gearbox got its speed signals from.
How do i go about getting gearbox codes anyway? I presume, like the cavalier it os another combination of pins you short on the diagnostic plug.
It seems to be losing quite a lot of ATF though so it'll need taking out anyway. Seems less hassle to swap it for a manual. If a new crank sensor makes ot work though it would mean i could put off the swap till such a time as i can be arsed doing it haha!
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What would you suggest as a more systematic approach chrisgixer? Im open to all suggestions by this point...
Gill
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Well, i'd suggest fixing one at a time, sort your sensor codes first before doing anything, ESP wading into gear box removal. Confirm the engine codes are sorted first, then look at the box if it still playing up.
Fitting a manual is all doable but can introduce more unknowns while your in the middle of diagnosing something else. Potential for fuddlment x10.
You will need a code reader for gear box ecu btw. Paper clip test and pedal trick only read engine ecu.
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Ah, thought id read on here you couldn't paperclip tge gearbox. I will get the crank code sorted, hopefully anyway, by fitting another sensor on monday. Thought that was all sorted with the one i just fitted. The amount of fluid i've lost, around 5-600 ml suggests the box will need to come out, new seals fitted etc etc. Would be as well fitting the manual and having piece of mind. Bearing in mind i've got rid of every automatic vauxhall ive owned due to aurobox problems. Not entirely sure why i keep buying them haha.
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Ah, thought id read on here you couldn't paperclip tge gearbox. I will get the crank code sorted, hopefully anyway, by fitting another sensor on monday. Thought that was all sorted with the one i just fitted. The amount of fluid i've lost, around 5-600 ml suggests the box will need to come out, new seals fitted etc etc. Would be as well fitting the manual and having piece of mind. Bearing in mind i've got rid of every automatic vauxhall ive owned due to aurobox problems. Not entirely sure why i keep buying them haha.
Pm'd :y
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Good man Proz. :y
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Good man Proz. :y
Why ??
Might be if he reads it ;D ::) :-/
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Pm recieved and replied. Cheers
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Good man Proz. :y
Why ??
Might be if he reads it ;D ::) :-/
Says so in your sig. ;)
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Good man Proz. :y
Why ??
Might be if he reads it ;D ::) :-/
Says so in your sig. ;)
Ah yes ... you know it makes sense lol ;D ;D ;D :y
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Good man Proz. :y
Why ??
Might be if he reads it ;D ::) :-/
Says so in your sig. ;)
Ah yes ... you know it makes sense lol ;D ;D ;D :y
;D :y
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Fitted new crank sensor today. Turns put the PO had used the wrong length of bolt. When i replaced it last week i did the bolt up until it was tight. Not being able to see it ibwas none the wiser. Was only about a thread too long but that would have been enough.
So the old sensor may have been working after all. Changed it anyway..... Just in case. Engine is no running perfectly again but the gearbox still doesnt work. So gonna be a swap to a manual. I do like the auto but cant be bothered fat arsing around with it every five minutes when something goes wrong. Gonna try and get the gearbox out the other car as soon as weather improves. I haf intended doing it tonight but it was hammering down. By the time id finishef the sendor swap id lost my enthusiam!