Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: T-rev on 31 May 2011, 09:03:11
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Hi, having problems identifying possible overheating....Drove 104 miles yesterday running fine around 98 degrees, but started rising in stand still traffic....put blower on full (cold selected) which saw the gauge shoot straight up to overheat with warning light coming on....Turned the blower off (still on cold select) and the guage started to drop back down again....No coolant loss, no error codes, Thermostat appears to open o.k first time around 95 degrees....fans coming on and working at both speeds....Fan rad switch changed about a month ago....Totally confused.
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Water pump change history....?
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Has any work on the cooling/heating system been carried out recently?
Sounds like needs burping imho :y
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98 as a normal running temperature sounds rather high...should be about 90-93 and I though that facelifts ran even lower...as said perhaps you have a water blockage...try flushing it :)
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Thanks for the replies, water pump changed with belts barely 5 months ago...Do intend to renew coolant to the pink stuff, so hoping the suggested flush, and new coolant solves the problem...It did use to run around the mentioned 90-95, but recent months has shown an increase in running temp???
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Could be the HBV starting to leak releasing pressure in the coolant system and causing the temp to rise.
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Did consider this, so why i am changing the coolant i am going to renew the HBV valve jsut for the sake of it.
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Happy with the replies and suggestions, what i cant get my head around, is why putting the heating on at its lowest setting with full fan speed would cause the temp to shoot up to red???
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Happy with the replies and suggestions, what i cant get my head around, is why putting the heating on at its lowest setting with full fan speed would cause the temp to shoot up to red???
Because you selected cold there was no longer a cooling
airflow cooling the heater matrix.
If you want to use the heater matrix as a secondary
radiator then you need to select full hot and max fan
speed. This will put max coolant flow through the
matrix and the max fan speed will give a good cooling
airflow.
I sometimes had to do this on a Peugeot 305 in hot
summer weather.
SWMBO used to get mighty upset when I did this,
once she had twigged why she was getting roasted
by hot airflow in the middle of summer. ::)
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Thanks Grumpy thats that answered...I will do the HBV and coolant flush/change which hopefully sorts it all out..With any luck i can use the air con on cold without having to keep it on hot to keep the engine temp down. :y
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Thanks Grumpy thats that answered...I will do the HBV and coolant flush/change which hopefully sorts it all out..With any luck i can use the air con on cold without having to keep it on hot to keep the engine temp down. :y
While you're doing that, I would at least take your water pump off so you can eyeball the impeller. You'll get more of the old coolant out that way too. :y
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o.k thanks Abiton, comment noted :)
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If you intend removing the water pump,try and avoid getting the cambelt soaked in coolant by getting as much out by removing/releasing lowest pipework points first.
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Well i changed the HBV and flushed/renewed the coolant yesterday but it still runs hot....Normal driving still between 95-98 degrees but gauge shooting up to redline/overheating light coming on when at a stand still....No signs of steam under the bonnet, no water loss, fans running and everything else looks normal....Could this be the thermostat, or something else??
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.......Could this be the thermostat, or something else??
It could either be your 'stat is stuck shut-ish or your rad is blocked-ish. Flushing doen't generally clear a partially blocked rad as the flush water will just find the easiest way through. You could use an infra red thermometer to look for cold spots on your rad :-/ clicky (http://www.maplin.co.uk/infrared-thermometer-223005)
My 3.0 sits at around 92o in town & doesn't really move much what ever I'm doing - unless the caravan is on the back & ambient temp is high.
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Thanks Andy worth a try i guess...temp goes to about 95 when driving then drops a few degrees, so am assuming that is when the stat has first opened...burped the top hoses yesterday as long as it seemed necessary so maybe even an airlock somehwere...very annoying now.
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Def think its a huge blockage somehwere now....Ran the car with cap off on tickover and it keeps bubbling up through the expansion tank....cant clear it.....
Thanks Andy worth a try i guess...temp goes to about 95 when driving then drops a few degrees, so am assuming that is when the stat has first opened...burped the top hoses yesterday as long as it seemed necessary so maybe even an airlock somehwere...very annoying now.
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Def think its a huge blockage somehwere now....Ran the car with cap off on tickover and it keeps bubbling up through the expansion tank....cant clear it.....Thanks Andy worth a try i guess...temp goes to about 95 when driving then drops a few degrees, so am assuming that is when the stat has first opened...burped the top hoses yesterday as long as it seemed necessary so maybe even an airlock somehwere...very annoying now.
Was that with it at fully-warmed up temperature?
If so it might be boiling of the coolant, at the sort of temperatures yours is running at. The system relies to an extent on being pressurised to raise the boiling point. Cap off and there's no pressurisation.
I'm guessing that you decided against inspecting your water pump?
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Hi Abiton, yes i did only because it was changed barely 5 months ago...When i did the coolant change the heater for eaxmaple was nice and hot, but today its cold...
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.....Ran the car with cap off on tickover and it keeps bubbling up through the expansion tank....cant clear it..... ....
Any car will always boil over at the header tank when running without the cap. It's designed to be a closed pressurised system. :y
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HI Andy, o.k thats that part sorted, but i am going to change the thermostat now given only cold air coming from the heater on hot selection, and hope that cures the problem...Waste of good antifreeze yesterday, still live and learn. :)
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......Waste of good antifreeze yesterday, still live and learn. :)
drain it into a bowl/bucket & re-use it. :y :y
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Isn't the heater matrix 'in circuit' even when the thermostat is fully shut? Not trying to be difficult here, just trying to save you changing bits that don't necessarily explain your symptoms. :)
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Not sure mate, but the good news is Daz is in the London/Kent area on Monday & Tuesday of next week..He is coming to me after Kent on Tuesday morning to do something else, so will let the expert take a look. :y
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Isn't the heater matrix 'in circuit' even when the thermostat is fully shut? ....
Yes. The flow through is regulated by the HBV ;)
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What's the condition of your rad like? I'd take it right out, flush and reverse flush it, shake it, tip it upside down, etc etc until you're sure it's clean. Also check the fins - I've had a rad before that looked fine, but when provoked literally half the fins were so corroded they all crumbled out like dust.
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Hi All, well it turned out to be the thermostat stuck "CLOSED".....Daz has been round today and changed it, now the car runs as it used to.....No higher than 85 whilst driving,and barely touches 92 at stand still.....A big relief.....Thanks again Daz, brilliant as ever :y :y :y :y
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Hi All, well it turned out to be the thermostat stuck "CLOSED".....Daz has been round today and changed it, now the car runs as it used to.....No higher than 85 whilst driving,and barely touches 92 at stand still.....A big relief.....Thanks again Daz, brilliant as ever :y :y :y :y
Good news :y
Though unusual to see a v6 one stuck closed
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Yes he did say they normally stick open, but tested it myself out of curiosity with seriously hot boiling water, and it would not open, but as you said, good nerws :) :)
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Hi All, well it turned out to be the thermostat stuck "CLOSED".....Daz has been round today and changed it, now the car runs as it used to.....No higher than 85 whilst driving,and barely touches 92 at stand still.....A big relief.....Thanks again Daz, brilliant as ever :y :y :y :y
Good news :y
Though unusual to see a v6 one stuck closed
I have now seen 4 stuck closed.
Glad its sorted now anyway Trev :y
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Another popular myth dispelled. :-? :y..........nowt like hands on experience Daz. :y