Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: dave9000 on 19 July 2011, 20:46:48
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Hi Everybody,
Can anyone tell me the exact meaning of the following codes and how to fix the problems?
These codes, I think, are a result of the turbo going (blew completelly) that has now been replaced). The car starts every time with no problems, will drive OK but within a mile will put the engine light on, will still drive but no power (light may go off and on any number of times, but makes for very annoying driving).
The cades are
P1590 - Engine Runninh Signal Voltage High
P0400 - Engine System Malfunction 2
P1125 - Critical System Injection Pump Malfunction 1
Any help or direction as to where I can get trustworthy assisstance would be appreciated.
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Does the rev counter go to zero when you drive it?
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NO, rev counter works perfectly, car will rev round to over 4000rpm, its not like limp home but it is still restricted performance.
checked codes on EOBD site and got more detail,
P1590 = Ignition Voltage out of peramiters
P0400 = EGR Flow
P1125 = Turbo wastegate value malfunction
I understand that these codes probably occured when the turbo blew, what I need to find out is how I can get rid of them for good.
Putting a code reader on and cancelling the warning light dont work, already done that and the light works it way back (lights 3 times and then stays on, not flash on but intermitent, may travel a mile between each of the first three lights, turn off and not there when you restart even after 15 miles).
Car not smoking anymore and sounds fine when reved but dont like being under load.
I not only changed the turbo but everything including the exhaust manifold upto the air pipes.
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Check ALL the vacuum pipework and the EGR valve operation.
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Indeed, sounds like a stuck EGR valve to me - the fact that you clear the codes with a reader and the light comes back on suggests that the problem is still present, no?
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I know it may sound dumb but exactly where is the EGR valve and what have i got to move to get at it?
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Did you check all the vac pipes as I suggested in your other thread Dave :y
It could be as simple as that.
The EGR valves are visible, they are plastic devices around 100mm Long and around 40 mm wide. they have one or two of the small Vac pipes going to them.
I think one is down around the area of the HBV and another on the battery side but closer to the bulkhead.
Someone may correct me on that, But check those pipes are all connected.
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Hi Boiler Man, Yes, checked all Vac pipes and went over every thing I had touched and more. You wouldn't have a picture of what these EGR valves look like by any chance?
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There are at least 2 that look a little like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR011-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-2-2-EGR-Valve-/120751563961?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1d5aa4b9
And I think there maybe one that looks like this, but I'm not sure on that, maybe someone will correct me?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR082-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-2-2-EGR-Valve-/120751546676?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1d5a6134
I suppose there is a possibility that some of that oil you mentioned floating around, could have gunged them up.
But I'm no expert. All I know is that everytime I have had this problem, it's been a vac pipe. :-/
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Hi
The first link in Boilerman's post is an EGR electrically operated vacuum switch, the second link is a typical EGR valve. EGR valve is turned on and off under electrical control from ECU, this then allows vacuum from the pump to operate the EGR.
EGRs can stick and can sometimes be cleaned effectively. EGR is normally closed, so if stuck open will adversely affect performance. A great thing I found to clean EGRs was a commercial degreasing system of the type that pumps hot cleaning fluid into a brush that you scrub with. Mine came up like new and has been fine since. A decent garage should have one.
Leaks in the vac. pipes normally throw up a " Critical System" type of failure. Best tested with a vac. pump and vac. gauge.
Re EGR location
On the very top of your engine is a strip of black plastic running front to back. This has a round bulge in the right hand side as you stand in front of the car. Your EGR is below the bulge and is simply held in with two approx. 10mm bolts. The operating valve is to the right of the EGR bolted to a bracket.
Hope this helps
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Thankyou both, now I know what I'm going to be playing with tonight (or maybe for the weekend). keep you posted.
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Got it sorted, rechecked the EGR valve and the VAC pipes, eventually found a missing VAC pipe tucked away by the radiator. No more warning lights, no more limp mode, and the turbo spins as it should. Not even smoking when reved any more. The advice received was helpful and spot on in the end, thanks guys.
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Good result, well done :y
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Hey its so nice to help someone!... Any ideas how you check a turbo? Car is running great (156k miles) and delivering 45.3 to the gallon on average of 8-10 mile trips, but have noticed a whistle from the turbo as it cuts in lately?
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Got it sorted, rechecked the EGR valve and the VAC pipes, eventually found a missing VAC pipe tucked away by the radiator. No more warning lights, no more limp mode, and the turbo spins as it should. Not even smoking when reved any more. The advice received was helpful and spot on in the end, thanks guys.
Well Done Fella :y
As far as Dti's are concerned, them vac pipes are little devils just waiting to get ya ;D ;D
Every time someone has done work in the engine bay of both my Dti Omega's there has been problems connected with those Vac pipes and they are everywhere :-?
Glad your sorted :y
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Hey its so nice to help someone!... Any ideas how you check a turbo? Car is running great (156k miles) and delivering 45.3 to the gallon on average of 8-10 mile trips, but have noticed a whistle from the turbo as it cuts in lately?
When lots of smoke come out the rear ;D
Joking aside just remove the intake pipe at the turbo and feel for up/down/side to side play and in /out play.
Best way to look after one is regular oil changes :y
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Been away to the sea last weekend, 350 mile round trip, no more problems with turbo or lights, even the MPG has improved.
As for checking the turbo, without taking it apart the only thing I think you can phisically check for is play in the turbo spindle. ( just take the air intake off and you can see the end of the spindle and vane, should move freely but have no play in it). I may be wrong but I dont think there should be any noticeable play in it. As for the whistling, mine did that from the day I got it at about 73K only had problems now over 130K