Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: amba on 22 August 2011, 11:59:59
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To gain better access to the 2 bolts holding the coolant transfer pipe to the rear of the block it is suggested in several write ups to slacken the oil cooler pipes to the cooler.
Now I assume to avoid damaging and bending the pipes they should be undone at the oil filter end and the oil cooler .
Do they need to be totally removed or just undone so they can move without bending them?
Do they require any new seal or gasket when refitted to the cooler or is it an "olive" type join ?
And finally I understand you require a 19mm crows foot spanner to undo them at the oil filter end ?
Thanks guys.
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Yeah 19mm Crows foot at the oil filter end, just remove bolt so they are loose. Remove the bolts on the cooler, with this done, thats enough slack to get the cooler out and replaced.
Personally, I fit new bango bolts when re-fitting :y
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Banjo bolts fit through the oil pipes to the cooler then so no seal/gasket required ?
Main dealer parts I assume.
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I found only a little if any help of opening the pipes from the engine block :-/ They go through a very narrow place (which probably si why TIS tells you to remove the heat shield from exhaust manifold) and barely have any room to move there. Also, they are held together with a clip behind the head which was proven impossible to re-attach. Next time I'm doing a cooler I will only open the top banjos (and yes, you need new gaskets) and carefully move/slightly bend them away... Crows foot would be good, I bought an open-ended spanner with a swivel as crows foot was not available as separate (dont need a set of them)
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Banjo bolts fit through the oil pipes to the cooler then so no seal/gasket required ?
Main dealer parts I assume.
You need sealant for the oil cooler plate, and there are dowty washers for the cooler pipes.
I'd personally get all parts from dealer, looking at £160 ish :y
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Dowtys are for coolant bridge, cooler unions use simple metal rings :y
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I am not replacing the oil cooler.
Just want to gain access to the 2 bolts holding on the coolant transfer pipe to the rear of the block.I had understood that it was easier to get the socket onto the 2 bolts with the oil feed pipes moved across slightly..so thought and read you should move the oil cooler pipes abit.
With this in mind is it wiser to undo the "banjo bolts " that secure the oil pipes to the oil cooler..if so do I need to replace these bolts or just refit and torque up again. Is the bolt self sealing or is there any seal/gasket that I should replace when I undo this banjo bolt.
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unions near the filter are taper so no need for any sealants. Banjo bolts you have to replace the metal seals if opened. I would imagine you could open the filter-end of the pipes to have them moved more easily than to open the banjo ends
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Thanks alot for the extra advise.
So really I should be able to move the pipes enough to gain access to the coolant transfer pipe/engine block mounting without the need to remove the "banjo bolts" at the oil cooler end ?
If I do replace the banjo bolts I will need some copper washers which act as the seal to the bolts.
Just want to cover every thing and have all the necessary tools/parts for this coming weekends work scheduled on my car.
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Someone can confirm me right or wrong but my view is that it should be possible; opnening the filter end gives the pipes more "slack" than opening banjo ends.
Part numbers for banjo bolts and washers can be found in maint.guides
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Thanks Kcl.
That is my understanding so will make sure I have a 19mm crowsfoot socket and go from there.Semmed abit excessive replacing bolts to bits that weren,t getting removed.
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Hope I'm not wrong... :y First I did not realize you were not opening the banjos. So, if not opened, no need for any seals.
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if you remove the 2 bolts from the oil cooler you can move the pipes a little to give you access to the transfer pipe bolts at the rear of the block, didn't need to loosen pipes by the oil filter but it was easier with the coolant bridge removed so may need 4 dowty washers on assembly
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Imo it wont be a problem moving the pipes over a bit to gain the access you need, without undoing tham at the filter.
If your brave (foolish ?) the oil cooler can be changed by gently bending them out of the way without undoing at the filter|(yes Ive done it), so what you want to do shouldnt be a problem.
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lots of different opinions then..undo pipes at oil filter end then you and you have enough slack to gain access.
Undo at oil cooler and then it seems like you should renew both bolts and the copper washers.
Just bend them out the way,which sounds the least favourable option and could give rise to a potential spilt in pipework and oil leak.
Think I will go with the oil filter end first and see how much access is acheivable,although according to a write up by MarkDTM its not necessary to undo anything much really.
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no need to replace oil cooler bolts unless they break, they are hollow with drillings in them so care in removing them is a must. The pipes only need to be moved over no more than half inch just so you can get an E10 or 8mm ring spanner on them, couldn't get a socket on em for love nor money