Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: jamie on 22 January 2007, 22:39:17
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I have completed some prototype trials for a modification I have designed for boot popping when stationary.
Will be having some ds, th professional blank PCBs run off in the near future.
UNTESTED initial schematics are at http://www.iecd.co.uk/ScratchPad/Projects/Lock.TIF
Jamie
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Interesting........
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Look forward to your progress report.
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Looks like one for MarkDTM to read....
What do you mean to boot popping when stationary, you mean you want to pop the boot when the car is running?
Is your car a facelift then with the boot button inside? If so there is an easy fix...
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Hi
When the car is at 0mph you can press the original boot button and the boot will unlock with the engine running. (It has a few other optinal features such as an audible chime and some user set outputs, if you want to switch things on/off etc at different car speeds).
It needs a couple of wires.
1. Conector X8 PIN 40 Speed Sig
Break into
2. K37 Central Locking Unit X62 PIN 3 IGN12V
3. And Back Out
4. GND
5. Also X61 Pin 3 if you want chime when you press button and some programmable functions.
So minimum 4 Wires, 3 of them form the Central Locking unit Connector, driver’s side and 1 from X8 passenger side (rhd).
Cheers
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Looks a pretty generic design which could be used to control multiple things (i.e. auto locking when moving etc)
Comments (following a quick look)
1) Worth adding provision for pull-up resistors to 12V on the outputs of the ULN2004, these being a high current darlington output mean that you can only pull low.....dont rely on it floating high....
2) Might be worth considering a FET output as the ULN's dont actualy pull the outputs as low as you would think....I have fallen foul of this in the past where they can struggle to drive standard logic inputs.
3) Inputs are diode protected against going below -0.6V (approx) but, not against going above VDD (Spec sheet states inputs must not go higher then VDD +0.3V)
4) For layout, follow the LM2671 datasheet very closely....they are very specific about current return paths etc...
5) Add a small programming header.....this will allow for faster developemnt times and make it much easier to prove and test....
6) What are you using for the micro oscillator (no sign of an external cap etc?)
Pretty much all I can think of at the moment....
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Hi
Yep, the aux o/p are just open collector outputs, designed to connect to external automotive relays. So are fine with bipolar ULN and without pull ups.
"Inputs are diode protected against going below -0.6V (approx) but, not against going above VDD"
uproc contains internal bipolar clamping diodes for this, the current limited via the external resistors. The external BZA462 only really protects against serious misuse/incorrect connections on the inputs.
"For layout, follow the LM2671"
LOL Yep, don't tell me about it. :)
This particular basic PIC has an internal CR oscillator option, no good for timing critical but for this no problem, as using internal hardware counter.
Thanks for your comments, if you think its worth adding any functions or you would like fet's for some other purpose let me know, as I wont be sending the gerbers to the pcb house until tomorrow.
Cheers
Jamie
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PCB layouts (non scale exports from gerbers) at http://www.iecd.co.uk/ScratchPad/Projects/
Showing top with silk screen and bottom.
They are about +300%.size.
PCB past EMC sim, so should go to pcb house Friday.
Jamie
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Blank PCBs arrived last week http://www.iecd.co.uk/ScratchPad/Projects/08-02-07_2251.jpg , I have written the code so hope to try out this weekend, if I can get some time away from paying jobs.
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Good work Jamie.
I'm watching this with interest. I spent many happy hours rummaging around in the circuit diagrams associated with this.
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I have had some time this afternoon, so have completed populating, programing and testing the board. I have also put in all the wiring required, terminating in an automotive connector, similar to the style used within the Omega. (Amp). LEDs in picture are just for testing, and are not fitted normally.
http://www.iecd.co.uk/ScratchPad/Projects/11-02-07_1612.jpg
http://www.iecd.co.uk/ScratchPad/Projects/11-02-07_1554.jpg
I am awaiting delivery on the abs enclosure for the board, should arrive in the next couple of days. (I designed the board to fit the specific box, and guess what it was out of stock)
I have written the software so that, it allows you to open the boot via the dash button when the car is at rest and ignition is on (or off), also for future add ons the 6 speed set points can be set up:
PROGRAM MODE
Press the Boot Unlock button on the dash within 2 seconds of turning on ignition, boot will not open and unit goes into Program mode and beeps at you.
Drive to desired speed for Set Point 1, press boot unlock button (boot does not unlock :) unit beeps, drive to next speed for set point 2, press boot unlock unit beeps twice and so on for all 6 settings.
I was thinking about driving 6 LEDs behind the speedo, so they illuminate at different speeds. Other uses are a Lock doors on go, Speed warning signal etc.
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I have got fed up awaiting the enclosure to arrive, so I have tried it out today without a box.
All works fine, can open boot only at standstill, and you can program all the aux speed outputs via holding the boot button in at ignition turn on and then pressing consecutively at each desired speed.
I will post a URL when the enclosure arrives with a full write up.
I ordered 5 blank PCBs as 5 cost the same as 1, (its how the PCB house work out a square decimeter of board).
If any one wants one, I will pass them on under cost at £10.00 each (this is for the blank PCB)
Admin, please delete if this is inappropriate.
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Kind of puts my "cut red wire" technique to shame! :(
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1155211091
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Kind of puts my "cut red wire" technique to shame! :(
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1155211091
Actually Hillper I like the KISS principle of your technique (Keep It Simple, Stupid), although personally I would have opted for popping the terminal out of the connector.
Moreover, just read your Maintenance Guide, and wondered about your reference to estates, can the estate tailgate be opened by fitting the boot lid remote?
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......
can open boot only at standstill, ........
That's like my pre face lift Omega then. ;) My arms aren't longer enough to open the boot while I'm driving. ;) ;) :y
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Kind of puts my "cut red wire"
Hi Hillper
Does your anti theft system still work correctly, with the ignition sense removed form the locking/anti theft interface? I designed the system to always default the wiring to the original oem implementation when ignition is off.
(I do remember a Vauxhall TIS bulletin some years ago (last time I had an Omega), and some reference was made to how service Dept's could defeat the boot system if customers complained, but I cant remember what the method was).
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Jamie, cutting the wire is exactly the same effect as removing the key.
So, in theory, the alarm should be unaffected as you would normally remove the key before arming it.
The alarm unit would be expecting the loss of the 12v from the 'W' contact as a condition of its operation.
However, I must admit, I have never tested it! :-[
I'll try it tomorrow, unless someone can do it before then.
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Yep, it should be fine, but I wasn't 100% on it, thinking the system may for some unknown reason , expect to see a change on the ign line.
In fact from memory I think the TIS bulletin from years back, may have advocated a similar approach in removing the ign sense.
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Just tested the alarm.
It works as normal, I'm glad to say!
And by the way, I totally agree with the 'KISS' premise. It's nearly always the best approach. It's easy to lead yourself off down a very complicated path, when a total rethink and fresh start provides the best result.