Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: Goonybird on 15 January 2010, 21:25:46
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I need to utilise a 12v supply to operate a relay in the boot, from the dashboard area.
I was thinking could I fit the rear blind switch from a scrapper and use the leads off that? Do I have to fit a supplementary relay in the fusebox? And what leads am I looking for in the boot?
Many thanx
Stef
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what is the relay for? there is live wires in loom at back under the seat but what are you using it for as can make problems.
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relay is for a ongoing project.
I just need a 12v supply to switch it and thought the rear blind circuit would be an easy way to get a switch at the front and 12v at the rear without having to lay in more wires.
I dont know which color and where wires are.?
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If you are after advise for a suitable source of power and whether relays are required, then it may be prudent to include details of what you are trying to do, so that we can assist with the information that you seek.
"Ongoing project" is insufficient to base an answer on
:-/
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If you are after advise for a suitable source of power and whether relays are required, then it may be prudent to include details of what you are trying to do, so that we can assist with the information that you seek.
"Ongoing project" is insufficient to base an answer on
:-/
I was trying to be polite. Surely the relay is not important, whether it is 5, 10 or 30 amps, it only needs the same 12v low current supply to operate. I have the wire of high enough current for my requirements from a fused supply already from the battery to the rear compartment.
I just needed to know the best way to get a independantly switched 12v supply to the boot, and assessed that if I have the wiring in place for the blind, could use a switch on the dash and relevent supply in the boot.
But, trying to find which wires is tricky without color codes as "Paynes" manual is useless.
thanks
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I do not envisage a problem with the rear blind switch to control the functions of the relay, and most ignition supply voltages would handle the switching of an extra relay within its circuit without the need to uprate anything anywhere. The Switched live at the rear of the radio would be fine to pick up power from, although I would personally fit an extra fuse in line to the switch and run a new wire along the length of the car to the relay in question and would not try to use existing wiring.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks again, forgot about the remote supply from the stereo.
I want to fit a 300W Inverter to power a mains powered amp (100w max at 240Vac not power output lol).
Already tested the setup and will work fine.
Thats why I need a relay inserted in the supply from the battery as it needs to be a bit hefty current wise.
Also I must be able to independantly switch in on and off from the front of the car in case it blows up ;D
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I would be inclined to run a new wire from the rear cigarette lighter socket connection, into the boot via a switch on the centre console. That way you can be sure that all the wiring would be capable of holding the load of the inverter and still have the remote switch should it be necessary.
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Funnily enough, my 300W inverter runs quite happily off my ciggy sockets... but, hey ho...
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Funnily enough, my 300W inverter runs quite happily off my ciggy sockets... but, hey ho...
300 watts at 12 volts is 25 amps. Call it 30 amps by the time the efficiency of the inverter is considered.
It might run from a lighter socket if lightly loaded but it won't take a full 300 watt load. (ciggy sockets are rated at 10 amps).
Kevin
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Funnily enough, my 300W inverter runs quite happily off my ciggy sockets... but, hey ho...
300 watts at 12 volts is 25 amps. Call it 30 amps by the time the efficiency of the inverter is considered.
It might run from a lighter socket if lightly loaded but it won't take a full 300 watt load. (ciggy sockets are rated at 10 amps).
Kevin
Yes, it may well run, but that does not mean that it is an acceptable way of doing it. The cables running to the ciggy lighter are not up to that sort of load and will actually act as a heating element over time until the wire actually catches fire.
Seen it too many times.
Goonybird is actually doing this correctly using a seperate relay with its own dedicated supply and wants a remote switch from a seperate supply to turn it on and off - I can`t fault that approach at all.
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My mistake, I just realised it was my old inverter that I had like that, which was only 150w. My new one is 300W, which has cables to link directly to the battery in order for it to be used to its full capacity, or ciggy socket jobby to run at a lower wattage... Apologies for confusion...
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When I fitted the towing electrics I ran a new cable from battery to the relays, I use the existing lead to power the flasher relay.
Currently I have in my sills
LHS
Fridge & battery charge towing.
LPG earth for two below
LPG solenoid
LPG level
Amp power
LHS front speaker wire
RHS
CD changer control
Stereo pair
RHS front speaker wire
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My mistake, I just realised it was my old inverter that I had like that, which was only 150w. My new one is 300W, which has cables to link directly to the battery in order for it to be used to its full capacity, or ciggy socket jobby to run at a lower wattage... Apologies for confusion...
No need to apologise, there was no confusion because Ohm's law is something that will NEVER be disputed ;)
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there was no confusion because Ohm's law is something that will NEVER be disputed
Except Ohms law is seldom used on this forum . . . .
only "Sod`s Law" ;D ;D