Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Mart280 on 30 October 2011, 13:57:05
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Hi guys, what are the symptons of a cambelt that might need changing, I started to hear a sound a bit like pinking today and had the bonnet open, it doesent sound like it's coming from inside the engine itself and its a sort of metalic rattle, I'm not sure when the cambelt was last done.
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could be aux belt related, but if your cambelt history is known, change it ASAP. You don't state what engine you have, if its a 2.0/2.2 the waterpump is cambelt driven, if thats unknown too, could be a ticking time bomb :y
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....cambelt history is unknown, d'oh!
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It's a 2.6 2001 auto saloon CD, I dont know the cambelt history.
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It's a 2.6 2001 auto saloon CD, I dont know the cambelt history.
Then change it ASAP. Many members here offer services, sure they will be along soon.
Cambelt change? Maybe £150ish? vs complete engine rebuild :y
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It is difficult to say what a noise is without hearing it.
If you don't have any cambelt history then it would be advisible to get it done like Tunnie already said :)
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The only symptom of a cambelt needing changing is when it snaps and bends your valves. You really need to get it changed asap by someone who knows what they are doing. :y
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Thanks for the advice guys, any capable guys live near Hastings.
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Reading this about the cambelt got me thinking, I just had a look at my service book and can’t see anything about cambelt replacement.
What it does mention is “Toothed belt and Ribbed belt”, this is where I show my ignorance again. Would any of those be classed as a cambelt?
How often should they be changed, mileage and time factor?
I hate the thought of having engine rebuild.
Sorry for hijacking Mart. :(
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Toothed belt will be cambelt. Should be changed every 40,000 miles or 4 years.Whichever comes first. :y
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No-one from Hastings area springs to mind, but hopefully someone will know better. :-\
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Toothed belt is cam belt and should be changed as a kit every 40000 miles or 4 years which ever comes first ;)
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Thanks Albs & Pete, :y :y
you've put my mind at rest on that one. :y :y
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Mate of mine had a listen and said it sounds like the water pump
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change water pump at same time as cambelt ( which is the toothed one ) ;) and the ( ribbed one is the auxillary belt ) :y
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Ribbed belt = aux belt, runs the water pump, alternator, power steering pump and air-con pump.
If it is the water pump, this can be done without disturbing the cam belt. However you have almost dismantled down to the cam belt anyway so I would be tempted to put in a new cam belt kit whilst in the area if it is getting anywhere near due.
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I would happily travel to Hastings for a competitive fuel price... (I run on LPG hence cheaper).
Happy to discuss in private message :y
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He seemed to think I would be ok untill after Christmas, I will get it done in January.
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I will keep that in mind James thank you.
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Ribbed belt = aux belt, runs the water pump, alternator, power steering pump and air-con pump.
If it is the water pump, this can be done without disturbing the cam belt. However you have almost dismantled down to the cam belt anyway so I would be tempted to put in a new cam belt kit whilst in the area if it is getting anywhere near due.
I missed a couple of posts thanks osprey, I will definitly have the cam belt done at the same time.
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Ribbed belt = aux belt, runs the water pump, alternator, power steering pump and air-con pump.
If it is the water pump, this can be done without disturbing the cam belt. However you have almost dismantled down to the cam belt anyway so I would be tempted to put in a new cam belt kit whilst in the area if it is getting anywhere near due.
Not on a 2 litre four pot it can't :y
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sorry Osprey,I was looking at the other poster with the 2 litre,you are of course right about the v6 :-[
Note to self,read the whole bloody thread before sticking oar in :-[ :-[
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No probs - probably good to be clear!
- Petrol V6 - water pump driven by aux belt, albeit partially buried in cam belt cover
- Petrol 4-pots - water pump driven by cam belt
- Oil fired engines - haven't a clue ::)
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dont delay get it done asap
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Just in case there were any doubts......change the cam belt :y (and pulleys and tensioner and water pump)
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I sometimes do cambelt jobs in the SE although I'm not a mobile mechanic as per Elite Pete, Darth Lorraine Kelly, JamesV6cdx, etc..... who are more experienced than I. That said I have changed many and have the required locking kit and tools.
PM me if you like :y
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There you go - local service. Well worth taking up :y
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Thanks guys, I will send out some PM's when my wallet has recovered :)
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By leaving it consider the odds.
Cambelt change, parts and labour circa £150, cambelt failure, top end stripdown, 2 new heads etc circa £1000-1500. 7-1 to 10-1 cost bet, by leaving until January.
In the words of Clint Eastwood... Do you feel lucky
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I broke down today, got recovered to home, the aux belt hasnt snapped but is in 2 pieces where it has sort of stripped, looking at the engine top left where the aux belt goes round the guy seemed to think this has seized, he said could be an Idler ? I need a couple of weeks to get some money together, I want the cam belt done as well and I will pm a couple of you guys, but can you give me a ballpark figure ?
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at the engine top left where the aux belt goes round the guy seemed to think this has seized, he said could be an Idler ? .....
The idler roller is available separately (despite what some dealers may say) and isn't expensive (I'm sure someone will give a price ::)) and takes minutes to change. :y
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Thanks Andy, why would that seize up or is it just age ?
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at the engine top left where the aux belt goes round the guy seemed to think this has seized, he said could be an Idler ? .....
The idler roller is available separately (despite what some dealers may say) and isn't expensive (I'm sure someone will give a price ::)) and takes minutes to change. :y
I agree Andy, but given this guy's cambelt history is totally unknown, that the aux belt idler/belt has now broken, I would be stripping it right back to the cambelt kit, and changing the whole lot for once and for all... :y
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Yes I want it all done at the same time, you offered earlier in the thread James does this still stand or is Hastings too far ?
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Still Stands, subject to mutually convenient time? :y
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at the engine top left where the aux belt goes round the guy seemed to think this has seized, he said could be an Idler ? .....
The idler roller is available separately (despite what some dealers may say) and isn't expensive (I'm sure someone will give a price ::)) and takes minutes to change. :y
I agree Andy, but given this guy's cambelt history is totally unknown, that the aux belt idler/belt has now broken, I would be stripping it right back to the cambelt kit, and changing the whole lot for once and for all... :y
but a new 'fan belt' & idler will make the car mobile again (............... cam belt life aside), and it's easy if you can do the work yourself. ;)
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Still Stands, subject to mutually convenient time? :y
Thanks, I will pm you in due course.
Whats involved Andy in changing the idler and aux belt, I'm not much of a mechanic, plugs and coil pack about my limit.
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Whats involved Andy in changing the idler and aux belt, I'm not much of a mechanic, plugs and coil pack about my limit.
15mm socket/spanner to release the tension on the belt (if it was still fitted). As there's less crap at the front of your engine to get in your way, it should be quite easy - feed the belt over the water pump last (it doesn't have a lip on it :y)
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Ok cheers, I will have a look in the daylight and see if it's within my skill range.
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Is this the correct part to replace the Aux belt and is the correct name for the idler roller the idler roller :) and am I likely to source that new or is it a scrap yard job?
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vauxhall_Omega_2.6_2001/p/car-parts/engine-parts/belts-chains-and-tensioners/car-drive-belt/?202220995&1&57a3a7755a50a51331a4e18665a4f1df68e4830e&000108
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Is this the correct part to replace the Aux belt and is the correct name for the idler roller the idler roller :) and am I likely to source that new or is it a scrap yard job?
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vauxhall_Omega_2.6_2001/p/car-parts/engine-parts/belts-chains-and-tensioners/car-drive-belt/?202220995&1&57a3a7755a50a51331a4e18665a4f1df68e4830e&000108
You could put a second hand part on, but IIRC they're £20ish new, so would likely replace it with a new one. How about giving andyc a bell at Drive in Bury St Edmonds? He'll spply at TC prices, but obviously plus a little postage :y That way you'll know you're getting the 'real' bits. :y :y
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1488 = andyc :y
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Thanks again Andy :y
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good luck with your motor. i'm sure one of the wizards from hogwards will sort you out.
however, i'm interested to know how your mate or mechanic predicted it would be ok til january? :-\ i am no mechanic at all but ive heard a loy of these random claims.
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Whats involved Andy in changing the idler and aux belt, I'm not much of a mechanic, plugs and coil pack about my limit.
15mm socket/spanner to release the tension on the belt (if it was still fitted). As there's less crap at the front of your engine to get in your way, it should be quite easy - feed the belt over the water pump last (it doesn't have a lip on it :y)
The belt has frayed and jammed the idler bearing up, how do I tension the new belt up is it done on the alternator.
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Whats involved Andy in changing the idler and aux belt, I'm not much of a mechanic, plugs and coil pack about my limit.
15mm socket/spanner to release the tension on the belt (if it was still fitted). As there's less crap at the front of your engine to get in your way, it should be quite easy - feed the belt over the water pump last (it doesn't have a lip on it :y)
The belt has frayed and jammed the idler bearing up, how do I tension the new belt up is it done on the alternator.
Nope, turn the tensioner (top left) nut (in the middle of the wheel) clockwise - it will push it down, releasing tension.
When refitting, just slowly let it take up the tension, and job done :y
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I have just ordered a new belt and roller from AndyC, he told my mate how to tension it, That was more my guestimate Webby of making it last till after Christmas, just trying to make myself feel better at the time :D
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Whats involved Andy in changing the idler and aux belt, I'm not much of a mechanic, plugs and coil pack about my limit.
15mm socket/spanner to release the tension on the belt (if it was still fitted). As there's less crap at the front of your engine to get in your way, it should be quite easy - feed the belt over the water pump last (it doesn't have a lip on it :y)
The belt has frayed and jammed the idler bearing up, how do I tension the new belt up is it done on the alternator.
Nope, turn the tensioner (top left) nut (in the middle of the wheel) clockwise - it will push it down, releasing tension.
When refitting, just slowly let it take up the tension, and job done :y
Thanks James
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I have a new belt and pully roller or idler roller and my mate is fitting it on Saturday morning, is there anything we need to remove first or any tips guys, is there a diagram of where the belt goes round the various bits and bobs
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I couldnt find a pic or diagram anywhere but fortunatly most of the belt was still in the right places so I made a quick drawing, everything went back on ok and I'm back on the road :) when I broke down most of the lights on the dash came on and after firing her up again for the first time the car with the spanner light was on but when I cleaned up and started her again it was out and everything seems fine, thanks for all your help guys :y