Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Wayne on 07 December 2011, 20:27:04
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Guys - was driving home tonight and all of a sudden, when i accelerated in various gears, the car started "pinking" sort of like when you run out of fuel lol, any ideas what it could be? :o
i have just spent £480 on getting the car through its MOT and got new tyres etc
i hope there's not more surprises 2 weeks after getting all that done, Aaarrgghhhhhhhh :'(
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Paperclip results?
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will do it tomorrow night mate, bloody freeeeeezing out there lol
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Just went outside and done paperclip test
i get 3 flashes and then one more flash (obviously the no RPM signal) my engines off lol
and then it flashes once, and then twice, which i presume is error code 12?
trouble is, there isnt a fault code for 12 is there?
is this my pinking problem? or could it be timing belt, spark plugs or someat else more serious? head gasket? (headless chicken mode lol)
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Just went outside and done paperclip test
i get 3 flashes and then one more flash (obviously the no RPM signal) my engines off lol
and then it flashes once, and then twice, which i presume is error code 12?
trouble is, there isnt a fault code for 12 is there?
is this my pinking problem? or could it be timing belt, spark plugs or someat else more serious? head gasket? (headless chicken mode lol)
Code 12 means the start of the codes ;) ;)
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So much for fault codes then :'(
my car pinks when i accelerate, but doesnt do it when engines cold, after driving it for 10 minutes and i approach a roundabout slowing down, and then accelerate in 3rd, 4th or 5th, the car feels like its misfiring, feels like its running out of petrol, even wheres half a tank in her >:(
just have no idea what it is
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Which engine do you have Wayne? If you can put that info in your profile mate it will help out in the future too.
As for Pinking, does the car feel down on power at all? The knock sensor is like an earphone bolted to the engine to listen for Pinking in the engine then the ecu will alter accordingly. In the older cars the distributor was advanced or retarded.
I had something similar, but I had a fault code plus the car was down on power.
Did this problem start after putting fuel in?
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sorry mate, my car is a 1998 S Reg 2.5 Petrol V6 Engine
i would say its only down on power when you try and accelerate, but she`ll still hit 110mph, but feels "lumpy" lol
i have tried BP Ultimate fuel for 4 weeks and it makes no difference, dying to get it sorted as its my drive to work 5 days a week
i do 60 miles to work each day there and back
i used to have the EML light come on quite a fair bit, and i did get a knock sensor code if i remember correctly
but for the last 4 weeks, the EML light hasnt come on, but when it did... you could feel the engine doing the same thing as it is now, im just pissed off as im getting no fault codes and if it is the knock sensor, which side of the car? i thought there were 2? is it a big job??
id take it to a garage but dont know if there rip me off and make stuff up to scam me for my hard earned cash
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There are two knock sensors mate yes. They are to hard to either. But unless you know the garages I personally take my car to one.
We really need to find the problem then fix it, not be guessing and putting parts on willy nilly. Where do you live? Wondering if anyone near you has a tech2 or similar?
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I Live near Faringdon in Oxfordshire
i dont mind driving to someone in Wiltshire or Oxfordshire, love to get my beast fixed :y
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Entwood is a helpful guy who may have a code reader that way. The Boy has a proper Tech2. Maybe worth PM ing them see if they could possibly help after Christmas .
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Willing to help and live near Swindon, but not sure if my OBDII reader for facelift will work on the 2.5 ?? Is that OBDII ?? If it does I can do limited live data readings.
Time might be a problem if you need it fast as we are going away 27th - 3rd. After the 3rd is no problem I'm not back at work until 9th.
HTH
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Hi matey, I can wait, I'm back to work on 28th, but will just keep on driving her, hope it's ok doing that lol
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Is it actually pinking? or could it be missing and then popping/farting/backfiring in the exhaust.
I once spent ages tracing a loss of power under hard acceleration which was cured by a set of new spark plugs.
Try pulling your plug leads and checking the state of the plug wells for oil or signs of water or rust.
If the plugs have done 50,000+ miles I would put some new ones in. I was shocked at how quickly the electrodes burn away in a V6.
(http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~aholter/PICT4771A.JPG)
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..... I was shocked at how quickly the electrodes burn away in a V6.
.......
So was I when I removed the 'new improved' quad electrode plugs from my 3.0 last summer after around 25000 miles. I replaced them with the 'proper' twin electrode plugs :y
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Hooray!! Got my car fixed! the pinking and poor running was the coil dis pack, also replaced the HT leads and put new spark plugs in
my mechanic bloke from my old village done it
Total bill was £349 all with parts and labour
I can honestly say its never run so smooth, on inspection, the dis pack was cracked and had water in it, how's that happen???!!
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Sounds rather expensive ... But at least your sorted now :y
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im not sure about prices, but my usual mechanics mate who owns a garage wouldn't rip me off, he gets a lot of work from my family and friends.... apparently it was 2 hours labour at £60 an hour and then the parts, HT Leads, Spark Plugs and Coil Dis Pack.... total £349
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£349 - thats excessive mate - recently done same on mine to cure misfire - dis pack, leads and plugs - cost nearer to £75 and 2 hours labour is about ok :(
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check your heater bypass valve..... that's the usual way to get water in the dispack. common fault.
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it's already had a new one last year
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Plus I'm not very good with cars, so had to pay lol
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Hooray!! Got my car fixed! the pinking and poor running was the coil dis pack, also replaced the HT leads and put new spark plugs in
my mechanic bloke from my old village done it
Total bill was £349 all with parts and labour
I can honestly say its never run so smooth, on inspection, the dis pack was cracked and had water in it, how's that happen???!!
:o
Arhhh ....!! the dredded coil pack >:( glad you got it sorted , i replaced the same on mine :y
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I agree-check plugs and leads-had missfire on mine one lead was corroded inside cap!!!??? If u want knock sensors and can take them off yaself come around here mate got 2.5 94 salloon here that am taking bits off before scrapping. :y
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Guys - is this Normal?
picked up my car from mechanic tonight, got in and drove it 2 miles down the road... and then....Orange Engine management light came on!!!! i knew it was too good to be true!
it stayed on for 10 minutes and didn't go off, car was a bit lethargic and then the EML light went off and it drove like shit off a shovel, 120mph with no stress at all :y
so... could this be a one off EML light thingy? does this happen when you put a new coil dis pack, HT leads and spark plugs on the Omega?
i haven't paid the full bill of £349 yet, and im not gonna UNTIL this problem is sorted...
thoughts?
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Check the engine codes again. :y
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No it is not normal for the engine management light to come on after having dispack, leads and plug. Infact you dont get a fault code for a HT problems on 2.5 or 3.0's.
Like Kevin says check the fault codes now and see what they say.
The other thing you mechanic although he does all your family cars and you dont think he would rip you off I still think you have paid out far to much, unless he has fitted genuine parts.
Dispack £165
Leads £200
Plugs £25
Plus £120 for his labour
If you follow me
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He has indeed fitted genuine parts, I've got the receipt
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It just sounds expensive Wayne when you can get probably the same quality parts for half the price.
We on here have seen it far to often and do try to help people not to over spend.
Hope you understand what I am trying to say :y
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For example - you can get a perfectly good set of plug leads for around £35. :y
Some parts need to be genuine parts,others dont.Always best to seek advice from the forum first imo. ;)
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Dis park was genuine, had some Bosch spark plugs, but don't think HT leads were top of the range lol
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Error codes are 12, 16 and 31
should I be worried?
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knock sensor? which one is it? Drivers side or passenger side?
are they expensive? is it best to fit 2 new ones?
and lastly, is it a nightmare to do yourself?
am I looking at another stupid bill? would anyone like to do it for me for some cash?
I live in Faringdon in Oxfordshire
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Jesus! http://www.vauxhall-car-parts.co.uk/acatalog/VAUXHALL_KNOCK_SENSOR_-_90541521.html
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A knock sensor code doesn't mean "go and buy a new one". ;)
If the light has now gone off and it's running OK I would use it for a while and see if it returns, to be honest. Can't see how it would be connected with work done on the coil pack. :-\
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Phew! Thank god! I'll use the car and see if EML light returns
won't be for a few days as I'm off to Lithuania with my band late
Will let you all know if my car blows up lol
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Bloody cars EML light has come on again :-[
i can honestly say i have had a guts full of my car now, there was a point when bugger all was wrong with her, now its one thing after another and she has to be the most unreliable car ive ever owned with things keep going wrong all the time, even the air con dont work, just pumpin out normal air, not cold whatsoever
coil pack, HT leads, spark plugs, battery, alternator, blah blah blah!!!
dont know what to do about the offending knock sensor error code on paperclip test
id probably sell it but wouldn't get anything for her, not on an S reg with 86000 on the clock
i know i cant afford to keep spending shit loads each month, its unviable financially >:(
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Do you have a code for a knock sensor?
The wire to the drivers side knock sensor runs across the front of the cam belt cover. It is quite common for the wire to get damaged when the cam belt is changed.
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Error code i got from Paper clip test were these
Error codes are 12, 16 and 31
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12 End of codes (no problem)
16 Knock Signal Circuit 1 (drivers side)
31 No Engine RPM Signal (engine not running)
Check in and around the cable tray across the front of the cam belt cover for damage to the knock sensor cable.
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so, error code 16 could be the main reason for the months of the dreaded intermittent EML light?
what does the code mean exactly? and is this knock sensor on the drivers side or passenger side?
will i need to buy Genuine sensors? or are aftermarket ones ok? is it best to replace one or two of them?
my mechanic is gonna look to see if the sensors been damaged when i had my new cambelt fitted 3 - 4 years ago
or maybe its gotten trapped?
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i can honestly say i have had a guts full of my car now, there was a point when bugger all was wrong with her, now its one thing after another and she has to be the most unreliable car ive ever owned with things keep going wrong all the time, even the air con dont work, just pumpin out normal air, not cold whatsoever
I wonder how much of that is down to the mechanic/garage that does your work :-X
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thought you`d say that !
I am no mechanic, so i cant tell if i`m getting stitched up or not
and im not competent enough to go fiddling
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I had a similar code appear on my car recently,Wayne,after I did a clean up of the plenum and breathers.
All put back together as I have done many times although car was really sluggish and wouldn,t pull and had a definite missfire.I checked the fault caodes and mine was bringing up 17 which is n/s knock sensor.
After pulling it all to bits and putting it back several times traced the fault down to a spark plug which had a bit of moisture under the rubber boot.Gave it a good clean and dry..rechecked all 6 plugs torque and car hasn,t missed a beat since.
The code you have got is the ecu telling you there is a fault,not necessarily the sensor at fault.My advise would be to remove each plug cap and check they are dry/clean and the plug is correctly torqued down .My money is on 1 cylinder,in your case with the fault code 16 being the easier side to access.(.Drivers side ) being either a loose plug or cap not sealing and getting a good spark...should be a simple fix and within your ability to rectify. :y
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ive never taken a car to a garage due to the amount who willingly will rip you off, this will sound crazy but ive just towed a vectra home that a vauxhall garage told previous owner the cam chain had slipped/snapped on it, got it home and in putting on my driveway for a bit of open heart surgry i tried starting it, turn out it was flooded with fuel and purrs like a kitten, now if you cant trust a dealer to give right diagnosis who can you trust
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Trust your own judgement and fix it yourself.
Plenty of advise on here and always somebody prepared to offer advise ..saves all that Main Dealer heart ache ;D
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EML light is permanently on now! starts struggling when accelerating - feels underpowered, when the light does go off, which is hardly ever, it drives lovely, nippy and smooth
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EML light is permanently on now! starts struggling when accelerating - feels underpowered, when the light does go off, which is hardly ever, it drives lovely, nippy and smooth
Well, thats because you have a known knock sensor issue (or was that fixed?) ;D
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Just picked my car up!
Gave it a quick burst up the A420 in Oxfordshire
The mechanic has cured the EML lumpy ride etc
He said he done some "re-routing of cables"
Didn't charge me anything else, thank fook!
Hooray!! got 115mph out of her and she's still got a bit more!
http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/oo152/Bongioviwayne/Waynes%2013%20year%20old%20Rust%20Bucket/?action=view
Now, I hope that's an end to it! Pleeeez!!
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Finally!!
After spending £450 last October on the MOT test, 4 new tyres, exhaust clamp and brackets.....then £110 for 6 months car tax and deposit of £45 for my new Elephant.co.uk car insurance provider.....and then today I've paid the £350 for shiny new HT leads, genuine Vauxhall distribution coil pack, spark plugs and a £15 eastern European valet inside and out.... that's a damn total of £970!!!!!!
no!! i must stop!!!
No more torture!!
Just drive now please!
She don't look bad for a 13 year old car though
All that money I spent and i could have bought a decent VW Passat TDi!
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Finally!!
After spending £450 last October on the MOT test, 4 new tyres, exhaust clamp and brackets.....then £110 for 6 months car tax and deposit of £45 for my new Elephant.co.uk car insurance provider.....and then today I've paid the £350 for shiny new HT leads, genuine Vauxhall distribution coil pack, spark plugs and a £15 eastern European valet inside and out.... that's a damn total of £970!!!!!!
no!! i must stop!!!
No more torture!!
Just drive now please!
She don't look bad for a 13 year old car though
All that money I spent and i could have bought a decent VW Passat TDi!
All service/general running items really ;) ;)
You may have been able to buy a Passat, but you couldn't have insured and taxed it too ;)
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Oh for breaks sake!!!! >:(
I knew it! :o
just put petrol in the garage, started the engine
turnt the heating on in the car and it's just cool air, even when set to Hi
No heat whatsoever
what now!?!? surely not someat else :'(
why is this crap going on
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Bet your "trusted mechanic" has re routed the pipes and either disconnecteca vacuum pipe or got into a mess with the HBV .
Take it back and ask him to do the job properly as he seems less than competant IMHO.
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oh, it'll be going back on Monday and I'm gonna go ballistic
anyone on here good with this type of stuff?
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so, what's he done exactly and is it easy to Fix it so it works and gives me heat??!!
it's also making a scraping and screeching type noise coming from the cambelt area
Do I need to check error codes again via Paperclip?