Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 25 December 2011, 18:58:19
-
Hi guys. Merry Christmas to you all.
I've read and re-read the guide below about how to change the spark plugs.....
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90536.0
..... however, my car is a 2.5 v6 and as I've never done this before I'm a but confused about what ''extras'' I need to do in addition to the guide for 2.6/3.2 spark plug changes. Can anyone advise?
Thanks
-
You have to remove the individual lead from each cylinder, the 2.6/3.2's have a single pack which covers each back.
Thats the only difference :)
-
You have to remove the individual lead from each cylinder, the 2.6/3.2's have a single pack which covers each back.
Thats the only difference :)
Excellent. Cheers mate. Am I correct in thinking that they just pop off to reveal the spark plugs? And that everything else in the guide should be followed? :y
-
Yes they just pop out, you may find a special plastic 'tool' to help you pull them out. It will be clipped to the top of one of the leads :y
-
sorry guys... at what picture number on the guide do i pop the leads off from the plugs??? pic 2???? cheers ;)
-
sorry guys... at what picture number on the guide do i pop the leads off from the plugs??? pic 2???? cheers ;)
Picture two shows the coil packs of a drive by wire car being removed, as you don't have coil packs, you will be able to see 3 HT leads. Just pull each HT lead in turn off its spark plug. Leads can be difficult to pull off though, if you're lucky, you'll have a puller clipped to one of the HT leads.
-
Piccie of "puller"
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z257/belisensis/OmegaV6a-1.jpg)
-
Piccie of "puller"......
A photo is worth a thousand words :y :y ............. I nearly tried to describe it - but didn't ;D ;D
-
I reckon RobG should be voted 'Most Helpful Oofer of 2011 :y
-
I reckon RobG should be voted 'Most Helpful Oofer of 2011 :y
+1. :y
-
Thanks for all the help guys as usual.
Presumably the red ''puller'' is the plastic tool that Tunnie was referring to and can be used to pull off each HT lead as they're al tricky?
Also, do I still need to go through all the stuff on the guide i.e. 18 or so steps?
Sorry as I've never done this before I'm just a tad confused. Are we saying when I release each lead I can unscrew plugs directly and won't have to go through all the other steps in the guide?
Cheers folks and cheers RobG for the piccie :):):)
-
The second and third is that with the newer engines being ‘Drive-by-Wire’ and having no mechanical EGR valve, there is basically nothing at all blocking access to the driver-side spark plugs, making it very easy to work on.
The fourth is that on the newer engines the idle speed is ECU-controlled thus no ICV unit, making access easier to the passenger-side spark plugs.
If working on 2.5/3.0, these items will need to be removed to improve access.
you will have to remove these to get access to unscrewing the plugs (not as hard as it sounds)
-
Thanks Fiend,
So am I to follow steps as follows:
1
Pull HT Leads out (using pulley if it has one... I'm sure it does)
5
6
7
8
9
10
11-16 seems specifically for engines with coilpack
So at what point do I remove EGR and ICV? And have I got this order right?
Sorry if I've got this totally messed up. Just trying to get my head around it ;)
-
Thanks Fiend, .....
So at what point do I remove EGR and ICV?
You don't
-
The guide does not suggest that needs to be done?
You just need to remove each lead from each cylinder, that gives you access to un-screw & remove/replace each plug. Then put lead back on.
-
On one of the engines, the egr pipe gets in way, can't remember if its long or short plenum ones. Don't think ICV will get in the way.
-
The guide does not suggest that needs to be done?
You just need to remove each lead from each cylinder, that gives you access to un-screw & remove/replace each plug. Then put lead back on.
Afternoon fellas,
Ok, so basically I ditch this guide.... I then simply unplug the HT leads and the spark plugs can be removed like this?
-
The guide does not suggest that needs to be done?
You just need to remove each lead from each cylinder, that gives you access to un-screw & remove/replace each plug. Then put lead back on.
Afternoon fellas,
Ok, so basically I ditch this guide.... I then simply unplug the HT leads and the spark plugs can be removed like this?
One at a time ;)
-
I reckon RobG should be voted 'Most Helpful Oofer of 2011 :y
Reckon i would go along with that certainly helped me out a lot this year. (Ay up his head is Swelling only joking Rob)
-
You're probably analysing it too much mate, once you get your head under the bonnet it'll all fall into place :y
Says an expert
-
If the weather stays kind(ish), you are welcome to pop it round...
-
Thanks all.
Once I do have the leads off is there a socket I can use from my new Halfords tool set? ;D (did I mention I have my own tool set?? :y ;D) or is there a tool a la special I need?
Ps this kit I got is proper hefty :o loads to play with. Thanks to all who recommended ;)
Just got to purchase axel stands as per a previous thread and I'm done!
I know you lot have kindly advised me on stands and jack but will the jack the car comes with be ok to use? Or will it not take the car high enough to get the stands under? Just trying to save myself a tiny bit of dosh ;D
Cheers all and hope you had a great Christmas. I did cos I now have my passport to get away from SWM......... :-X :-X :-X :-X :-X :-X
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
-
You don't need axle stands to change spark plugs ;)
-
The supplied jack isn't really suitable for anything, emergency use only.
-
You don't need axle stands to change spark plugs ;)
LOL!
Ok cool... I'll purchase a decent jack ;)
I think I understand this now......
To change spark plugs simply remove HT leads, unscrew plugs (gently) and replace. However, the reason this guide is more involved than that is due to the difficulty in accessing the plugs, in particular that one at the back passenger side. Am I correct?
Cheers.
-
All off the passenger bank is a bit more difficult, due to loom over the top of the plugs
-
All off the passenger bank is a bit more difficult, due to loom over the top of the plugs
....But accessable without having to remove anything?
:)
-
All off the passenger bank is a bit more difficult, due to loom over the top of the plugs
....But accessable without having to remove anything?
:)
Yes
-
All off the passenger bank is a bit more difficult, due to loom over the top of the plugs
....But accessable without having to remove anything?
:)
Yes
Perfection! Thanks Broseph and his technicolour Brocoat! :)
-
All off the passenger bank is a bit more difficult, due to loom over the top of the plugs
....But accessable without having to remove anything?
:)
I reckon you may have to pop the cables out of the tray, and thus may be easier to remove the ICV.
Visually check drivers side, can't remember if short plenum EGR gets in the way.
-
All off the passenger bank is a bit more difficult, due to loom over the top of the plugs
....But accessable without having to remove anything?
:)
I reckon you may have to pop the cables out of the tray, and thus may be easier to remove the ICV.
Visually check drivers side, can't remember if short plenum EGR gets in the way.
Ok cool, well if I do I'll simply follow the guides to remove them, then change plugs when I need to ;)
-
I don't want to add confusion for you here Steve, but I would have said that the only Two bolts you will need to remove are the two small ones on the passenger side of the plenum. They hold the cable tray in place. Once you remove the Two bolts which usually an E10 socket or 8mm spanner fits, you will be able to move the cable tray to enable you more room to pull up the Spark Plug Leads, then get you socket and extension to the Spark Plugs to undo them.
The drivers side although fiddly getting your fingers to pull the leads up should not need anything removing to get the Spark Plugs out.
Hope that helps and doesn't confuse.
-
I think thats nice and clear DLK :y
Can you get to those plugs without taking the wiring from the cable tray? Or is there enough slack to pull cable tray to one side?
-
I think thats nice and clear DLK :y
Can you get to those plugs without taking the wiring from the cable tray? Or is there enough slack to pull cable tray to one side?
Personally as I know people do things differently, I find enough movement when those two small bolts have been removed to get the Plugs :)
-
I think thats nice and clear DLK :y
Can you get to those plugs without taking the wiring from the cable tray? Or is there enough slack to pull cable tray to one side?
Personally as I know people do things differently, I find enough movement when those two small bolts have been removed to get the Plugs :)
Aye, we all do things our own way, but your way sounds like it should be dead easy, thanks! :y
-
Or one bolt, on my car, since it seems a Vx dealer (it had FSH when I got it) managed to lose one of them.. ;D
-
By the way guys, when changing a wheel (simple for you lot I'm sure but I've never done it :-[) am I right in thinking that get car jacked up, undo nuts, remove and replace?
If so, why is there one nut with a plastic cover on? :-\
-
By the way guys, when changing a wheel (simple for you lot I'm sure but I've never done it :-[) am I right in thinking that get car jacked up, undo nuts, remove and replace?
If so, why is there one nut with a plastic cover on? :-\
Slacken wheel bolts then jack car. 4 bolts should have long caps, locking bolt will/should have a shorter cap
-
You want to release the wheel nuts first, before the wheel is in the air and able to spin freely ;)
All wheel bolts should have a plastic cover for aesthetics, there maybe one little flat "cap" for one locking wheel nut on each wheel, if you have them fitted.
-
Ok thanks guys.
When you say locking nut (I'm presuming this is the one nut that looks different) do they still all undo with a ratchet/socket?
-
Ok thanks guys.
When you say locking nut (I'm presuming this is the one nut that looks different) do they still all undo with a ratchet/socket?
Yes, but you need the key. Which is an adaptor from the lock style to a regular socket which you can use in a breaker bar/ratchet
Most of them are made of toffee & the when the garages do them up with an air-gun mega tight, they can easily mangle/split. (the key not the nut)
The key will be in a box in either glove box or boot, and look like this:
(http://imganuncios.mitula.net/vauxhall_wheel_locking_bolts_kit_94686439770221884.jpg)
-
Yes mate I have that. IIRC it looks exactly like a socket, but presumably it fits this one nut. And are the rest of the nuts simply undone by removing plastic cover and undoing with the relevant sized socket? :)
-
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
-
Well worth buying this:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_196407_langId_-1_categoryId_165469 (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_196407_langId_-1_categoryId_165469)
-
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
WICKED!!! :y
How come I have to loosen them first before jacking up? Is it because the weight of the wheel would push down on the nut/thread and make it tricky to come out?
-
No, because the wheel will turn as you undo the nut :y
-
No, because the wheel will turn as you undo the nut :y
Lol!!!! Oh yeah!!!! :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
As I've always had tyres replaced by garages are these nuts, in practise, going to be impossible to remove with a hand tool/breaker/wrench/wratchet???
-
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
WICKED!!! :y
How come I have to loosen them first before jacking up? Is it because the weight of the wheel would push down on the nut/thread and make it tricky to come out?
Think about it, wheel nuts are done up tight (110Nm)... heck they go around at 100mph+
If, the wheel is the the air, you try to release it, what will happen? It will just spin.
When on the ground, its got a 2ton car sitting on it, you have to move that first, most of the time, the wheel nut gives first ;)
-
Actually, I think there's a tool that came with the car. Will have to check.
-
No, because the wheel will turn as you undo the nut :y
Lol!!!! Oh yeah!!!! :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
As I've always had tyres replaced by garages are these nuts, in practise, going to be impossible to remove with a hand tool/breaker/wrench/wratchet???
Errr I did say this earlier....
Well worth buying this:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_196407_langId_-1_categoryId_165469 (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_196407_langId_-1_categoryId_165469)
-
Actually, I think there's a tool that came with the car. Will have to check.
There is, but like the jack, its for emergency use only, its not very strong ;)
-
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
WICKED!!! :y
How come I have to loosen them first before jacking up? Is it because the weight of the wheel would push down on the nut/thread and make it tricky to come out?
Think about it, wheel nuts are done up tight (110Nm)... heck they go around at 100mph+
If, the wheel is the the air, you try to release it, what will happen? It will just spin.
When on the ground, its got a 2ton car sitting on it, you have to move that first, most of the time, the wheel nut gives first ;)
Yeah, sorry man :( :-[ :-[ :-[
-
Actually, I think there's a tool that came with the car. Will have to check.
There is, but like the jack, its for emergency use only, its not very strong ;)
Sorry, a mass of posts and I'm easily confused!
Cheers. Think i got it now ;)
-
Actually, I think there's a tool that came with the car. Will have to check.
There is, but like the jack, its for emergency use only, its not very strong ;)
Sorry, a mass of posts and I'm easily confused!
Cheers. Think i got it now ;)
When I first joined, I needed TheBoys help to do an oil change :)
We all have to start somewhere......
-
Actually, I think there's a tool that came with the car. Will have to check.
There is, but like the jack, its for emergency use only, its not very strong ;)
Sorry, a mass of posts and I'm easily confused!
Cheers. Think i got it now ;)
When I first joined, I needed TheBoys help to do an oil change :)
We all have to start somewhere......
...And all your help (and patience) is very much appreciated!!!!!!!! :y
It's strange.... I noted someone in the gen. disc. area saying about people on here moaning, being nasty etc (all seems fine to me) but bearing in mind I tried to get maintenance guides for a ford focus (the other half's) to replace a wing mirror and even though i'd signed up as an ''owner'' it said people who'd paid a membership were the only ones allowed access!!!!!! and bearing in mind on here you get an answer in literally seconds!!!! food for thought! ;)
-
We all have to start somewhere mate, I've done quite a few things with mates but I've got no confidence in my ability to do some bigger jobs on my own. You'll be pulling the engine out for fun in no time ;)
-
quite common for a "two tier" style membership, forums cost a significant amount of money to run.
The BMW GS Forum I am on has a paid level, access to things like For Sale Forums are restricted to those who cough up £15 a year.
OOF has avoided this, as it creates a "I've paid my money, therefore I'm a better member than you" effect. OOF Shop profits are used to help fund some of the running costs.
-
We all have to start somewhere mate, I've done quite a few things with mates but I've got no confidence in my ability to do some bigger jobs on my own. You'll be pulling the engine out for fun in no time ;)
lol! Funny you mention that cos I'd considered purchasin a breaked omega to practise on! :y Do you still have to insure it if it's declared off the road? :y
-
quite common for a "two tier" style membership, forums cost a significant amount of money to run.
The BMW GS Forum I am on has a paid level, access to things like For Sale Forums are restricted to those who cough up £15 a year.
OOF has avoided this, as it creates a "I've paid my money, therefore I'm a better member than you" effect. OOF Shop profits are used to help fund some of the running costs.
In all honesty I never realised there were costs involved to run it. but then again I am a luddite! :-[
-
quite common for a "two tier" style membership, forums cost a significant amount of money to run.
The BMW GS Forum I am on has a paid level, access to things like For Sale Forums are restricted to those who cough up £15 a year.
OOF has avoided this, as it creates a "I've paid my money, therefore I'm a better member than you" effect. OOF Shop profits are used to help fund some of the running costs.
In all honesty I never realised there were costs involved to run it. but then again I am a luddite! :-[
What do you think this software runs on?
We used to use Yabb forum now migrated to this, TheBoy has spent 100's hours working on getting the forum running right, migrating and testing replacements to Yabb. Indexing the site so when you search in Google is bloody hard work, its not very easy to become number 1 in search results. You need a dedicated internet line for the server, you average broadband hookup aint going to cut the mustard.
Time, Money, resources spent on making a server, making sure it has enough power/capacity's to run the 1,000's requests per minute it does.
Then it needs electricity, that costs money. It needs UPS battery backup supplies for spikes/dropouts in electric dropout.
omegaowners.com name need to be paid for, configured, updated when ISP's change their DNS
Does not happen by magic you know ;)
-
I don't know the actual figures, but I can easily see this forum costing over £1,000 a year to run + hardware costs
-
quite common for a "two tier" style membership, forums cost a significant amount of money to run.
The BMW GS Forum I am on has a paid level, access to things like For Sale Forums are restricted to those who cough up £15 a year.
OOF has avoided this, as it creates a "I've paid my money, therefore I'm a better member than you" effect. OOF Shop profits are used to help fund some of the running costs.
In all honesty I never realised there were costs involved to run it. but then again I am a luddite! :-[
What do you think this software runs on?
We used to use Yabb forum now migrated to this, TheBoy has spent 100's hours working on getting the forum running right, migrating and testing replacements to Yabb. Indexing the site so when you search in Google is bloody hard work, its not very easy to become number 1 in search results.
Time, Money, resources spent on making a server, making sure it has enough power/capacity's to run the 1,000's requests per minute it does.
Then it needs electricity, that costs money. It needs UPS battery backup supplies for spikes/dropouts in electric dropout.
omegaowners.com name need to be paid for, configured, updated when ISP's change their DNS
Does not happen by magic you know ;)
Well, a big thank you to the guys who do this! and who provide constant help :):):)
-
you average broadband hookup aint going to cut the mustard.
Hmmm. Yes. Well. There is a story there. Errr. Uhmm.
::)
-
you average broadband hookup aint going to cut the mustard.
Hmmm. Yes. Well. There is a story there. Errr. Uhmm.
::)
Maybe should have said un-dedicated ::)
-
you average broadband hookup aint going to cut the mustard.
Hmmm. Yes. Well. There is a story there. Errr. Uhmm.
::)
Maybe should have said un-dedicated ::)
I blame Hosting-Unlimited. When we started, we had a decent connection (just a shite shared, overloaded server). Shame they booted us off after less than 3 weeks, which is why it "temporarily" ended up being hosted where it is now ::)
-
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
WICKED!!! :y
How come I have to loosen them first before jacking up? Is it because the weight of the wheel would push down on the nut/thread and make it tricky to come out?
-
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
WICKED!!! :y
How come I have to loosen them first before jacking up? Is it because the weight of the wheel would push down on the nut/thread and make it tricky to come out?
Because with the wheel off the ground it`ll spin when you exert force on the bolt ;)
Cheers mate.... I can be retarded at times :-[
One final question about it as I understand it now...... how tight do I do them up again? Bearing in mind the car goes up to 135mph!!! don't want to lose a wheel lol obviously real tight with an airgun the shop uses but in all honesty I aint weak but I aint that strong either!!!! lol
-
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
WICKED!!! :y
How come I have to loosen them first before jacking up? Is it because the weight of the wheel would push down on the nut/thread and make it tricky to come out?
Because with the wheel off the ground it`ll spin when you exert force on the bolt ;)
Cheers mate.... I can be retarded at times :-[
One final question about it as I understand it now...... how tight do I do them up again? Bearing in mind the car goes up to 135mph!!! don't want to lose a wheel lol obviously real tight with an airgun the shop uses but in all honesty I aint weak but I aint that strong either!!!! lol
Try reading some of the replies you already have ::)
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
WICKED!!! :y
How come I have to loosen them first before jacking up? Is it because the weight of the wheel would push down on the nut/thread and make it tricky to come out?
Think about it, wheel nuts are done up tight (110Nm)... heck they go around at 100mph+
If, the wheel is the the air, you try to release it, what will happen? It will just spin.
When on the ground, its got a 2ton car sitting on it, you have to move that first, most of the time, the wheel nut gives first ;)
-
Yeah I saw that but when tightening by hand how can you gauge whether it's 110nm or not?
-
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
WICKED!!! :y
How come I have to loosen them first before jacking up? Is it because the weight of the wheel would push down on the nut/thread and make it tricky to come out?
Because with the wheel off the ground it`ll spin when you exert force on the bolt ;)
Cheers mate.... I can be retarded at times :-[
One final question about it as I understand it now...... how tight do I do them up again? Bearing in mind the car goes up to 135mph!!! don't want to lose a wheel lol obviously real tight with an airgun the shop uses but in all honesty I aint weak but I aint that strong either!!!! lol
Too tight is every bit as dangerous as too loose, as the bolts can fracture if overtightened.
110Nm, using a torque wrench
-
As Tunnie "suggests", your question has already been answered. Common sense says put wheels on, tighten nuts as far as possible, lower off jack and fully tighten to 110Mn (assuming you have a torque wrench!!) - if not do em up as tight as you can with the car wheel brace.
Edit - Sure your local garage/tyre fitters will retorque for you if you ask nicely.
-
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
WICKED!!! :y
How come I have to loosen them first before jacking up? Is it because the weight of the wheel would push down on the nut/thread and make it tricky to come out?
Because with the wheel off the ground it`ll spin when you exert force on the bolt ;)
Cheers mate.... I can be retarded at times :-[
One final question about it as I understand it now...... how tight do I do them up again? Bearing in mind the car goes up to 135mph!!! don't want to lose a wheel lol obviously real tight with an airgun the shop uses but in all honesty I aint weak but I aint that strong either!!!! lol
Too tight is every bit as dangerous as too loose, as the bolts can fracture if overtightened.
110Nm, using a torque wrench
oh ok. so you set it at that ''nm'' you want. ok cool. i dont think i have one in my new tool set
-
Yes, 17mm deep socket from Halfrauds set works nicely :y
WICKED!!! :y
How come I have to loosen them first before jacking up? Is it because the weight of the wheel would push down on the nut/thread and make it tricky to come out?
Because with the wheel off the ground it`ll spin when you exert force on the bolt ;)
Cheers mate.... I can be retarded at times :-[
One final question about it as I understand it now...... how tight do I do them up again? Bearing in mind the car goes up to 135mph!!! don't want to lose a wheel lol obviously real tight with an airgun the shop uses but in all honesty I aint weak but I aint that strong either!!!! lol
Too tight is every bit as dangerous as too loose, as the bolts can fracture if overtightened.
110Nm, using a torque wrench
oh ok. so you set it at that ''nm'' you want. ok cool. i dont think i have one in my new tool set
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_178621_langId_-1_categoryId_165469 (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_178621_langId_-1_categoryId_165469)
-
All is now clear!!! Thank you :):):)
-
Never used a torque wrench on wheelnuts in my life tbh. :D
Not recommending it for everyone else though. ;)
-
Never used a torque wrench on wheelnuts in my life tbh. :D
I think I'd want the piece of mind! :y
-
Never used a torque wrench on wheelnuts in my life tbh. :D
Not recommending it for everyone else though. ;)
From what I`ve heard your face is enough to make any nuts tighten :P :P
-
Never used a torque wrench on wheelnuts in my life tbh. :D
Not recommending it for everyone else though. ;)
From what I`ve heard your face is enough to make any nuts tighten :P :P
;D ;D ::) ::) ::)
-
Never used a torque wrench on wheelnuts in my life tbh. :D
Not recommending it for everyone else though. ;)
I'm not bad at guessing the 20-60Nm range, but 110Nm is a bit tight for guessing IMHO. Not that wheelnuts are that critical to be spot on.
Trouble is, retarded mechanics think they can guess anything, due to lack of brainpower to use a torque wrench, and there starteth the warped cam cover myths...
-
Never used a torque wrench on wheelnuts in my life tbh. :D
Not recommending it for everyone else though. ;)
Must admit I used to when I was 'new', now I don't usually.. familiarity breeds contempt and all that, and I'd hesitate to recommend the same to anyone else - just in case their wheel fell off!
-
Not using a torque wrench on wheel nuts in our shop is a verbal warning on your record. Company has all torque wrench checked every six months, if it fails its in the bin.
Get a torque wrench, if you are intent on doing lots of jobs on your car then you will need one. I now have three different ones 1/2", 3/8" & 1/4" drive which is spot on for cam cover gaskets
Just remember if your not sure ask, i've been at this for twenty plus years and i'm still learning
Cheers
Andy
-
Not using a torque wrench on wheel nuts in our shop is a verbal warning on your record. Company has all torque wrench checked every six months, if it fails its in the bin.
Get a torque wrench, if you are intent on doing lots of jobs on your car then you will need one. I now have three different ones 1/2", 3/8" & 1/4" drive which is spot on for cam cover gaskets
Just remember if your not sure ask, i've been at this for twenty plus years and i'm still learning
Cheers
Andy
thanks mate! :y
-
ALWAYS using a torque wrench on wheelnuts is a good way of not forgetting to tighten them properly once you've removed the jack. ;)
That's aside from being good practice for important fasteners.
If you've got the setting and the wrench why wouldn't you use it?
-
...............
If you've got the setting and the wrench why wouldn't you use it?
cos my torque wrench & deep 17mm socket are in the garage whereas my wheel brace (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/21-EXTENDING-TELESCOPIC-MASTER-WHEEL-BRACE-17MM-19MM-SOCKET-WRENCH-/330646632753?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4cfc133931#ht_1025wt_905) is in the car next to me. ;) ;)
-
Hi all,
The wife has said I can take her wheel off and put it back on again for practise (thought it would take a lot more persuasion than a bottle of gin ;D)!
So I am purchasing the torque wrench and breaker tomorrow (thanks for links Tunnie).
Is 110nm standard across all cars? Hers is a Focus.
Ps, can't do it on mine as Mum has it all day tomorrow for shopping etc. Convenient! ;)
-
Hi all,
The wife has said I can take her wheel off and put it back on again for practise (thought it would take a lot more persuasion than a bottle of gin ;D)!
So I am purchasing the torque wrench and breaker tomorrow (thanks for links Tunnie).
Is 110nm standard across all cars? Hers is a Focus.
Ps, can't do it on mine as Mum has it all day tomorrow for shopping etc. Convenient! ;)
Can vary, but not by much. Most cars are around the 100-110Nm
-
Hi all,
The wife has said I can take her wheel off and put it back on again for practise (thought it would take a lot more persuasion than a bottle of gin ;D)!
So I am purchasing the torque wrench and breaker tomorrow (thanks for links Tunnie).
Is 110nm standard across all cars? Hers is a Focus.
Ps, can't do it on mine as Mum has it all day tomorrow for shopping etc. Convenient! ;)
Can vary, but not by much. Most cars are around the 100-110Nm
Cheers TB. 110 it is then! :y
-
Cant say for the Focus. I hated ours so much I refused to do anything on it. Useless heap of junk.
-
Cant say for the Focus. I hated ours so much I refused to do anything on it. Useless heap of junk.
I'll double check on the net for the NM.
What was bad about it? The Mrs. has had hers for a few years now and no problems whatsoever. Quite comfortable too.
-
Just a quick look on a Focus thread....
One guy says 100nm and another says 85nm for the MK1. LOL!
-
Just a quick look on a Focus thread....
One guy says 100nm and another says 85nm for the MK1. LOL!
Good chance info like that will be in the user handbook. Please read the manual ;) ;) ;)
-
Just a quick look on a Focus thread....
One guy says 100nm and another says 85nm for the MK1. LOL!
Good chance info like that will be in the user handbook. Please read the manual ;) ;) ;)
LOL I will do. Just thought I'd update my adventures ;)
-
Just a quick look on a Focus thread....
One guy says 100nm and another says 85nm for the MK1. LOL!
Good chance info like that will be in the user handbook. Please read the manual ;) ;) ;)
LOL I will do. Just thought I'd update my adventures ;)
If you're such an obvious 'newby' to any kind of car maintenance please be carefull where & how you jack the car to remove the wheel, apart from the obvious ie it falling off the jack onto you, it's easy to bend/damage things that should not be jacked up on ie wishbones, radius arms, drive shafts etc
-
110NM = 85lbft iirc. :y
-
Just a quick look on a Focus thread....
One guy says 100nm and another says 85nm for the MK1. LOL!
Good chance info like that will be in the user handbook. Please read the manual ;) ;) ;)
LOL I will do. Just thought I'd update my adventures ;)
If you're such an obvious 'newby' to any kind of car maintenance please be carefull where & how you jack the car to remove the wheel, apart from the obvious ie it falling off the jack onto you, it's easy to bend/damage things that should be jacked up on ie wishbones, radius arms, drive shafts etc
Will do mate thanks. ;)
-
Webby, I am sure, as he offered earlier, that if you popped down the 21 miles to TB in Brackley - bearing gifts of course - that he can give you as much information in 30 minutes as you can get in hours of posts! :y
-
Webby, I am sure, as he offered earlier, that if you popped down the 21 miles to TB in Brackley - bearing gifts of course - that he can give you as much information in 30 minutes as you can get in hours of posts! :y
I will do at some point and am very much obliged.
Cheers all and happy new year :):):)
-
What was bad about it? The Mrs. has had hers for a few years now and no problems whatsoever. Quite comfortable too.
Gutless (1.6) compared to the other car we had at the time (1.6 Rover 25)
A load of ECU bugs (kept going to idle and/or stalling), otherwise reliable enough
Too small (compared to the Rover 25)
Really didn't like corners.
Positively, without doubt, the worse car either of us have ever had, and we've had some junk in our time. It was a cheap lease car (£165 a month, all in (except fuel), for 2yrs), but it was a long 2 years tolerating it.
-
What was bad about it? The Mrs. has had hers for a few years now and no problems whatsoever. Quite comfortable too.
Gutless (1.6) compared to the other car we had at the time (1.6 Rover 25)
A load of ECU bugs (kept going to idle and/or stalling), otherwise reliable enough
Too small (compared to the Rover 25)
Really didn't like corners.
Positively, without doubt, the worse car either of us have ever had, and we've had some junk in our time. It was a cheap lease car (£165 a month, all in (except fuel), for 2yrs), but it was a long 2 years tolerating it.
Fair enough.
The wife's is a 1.8 and it's practical enough. not too bad on fuel consumption either.
However , even though it's comfortable i simply hate the dash and the styling. although i'm fond of the steering wheel for some reasom.
just bought my torque wrench and breaker bar. result! it should have come to £108 and then she put it through the till.... £85 please. yee hah! ;)
-
What was bad about it? The Mrs. has had hers for a few years now and no problems whatsoever. Quite comfortable too.
Gutless (1.6) compared to the other car we had at the time (1.6 Rover 25)
A load of ECU bugs (kept going to idle and/or stalling), otherwise reliable enough
Too small (compared to the Rover 25)
Really didn't like corners.
Positively, without doubt, the worse car either of us have ever had, and we've had some junk in our time. It was a cheap lease car (£165 a month, all in (except fuel), for 2yrs), but it was a long 2 years tolerating it.
Fair enough.
The wife's is a 1.8 and it's practical enough. not too bad on fuel consumption either.
However , even though it's comfortable i simply hate the dash and the styling. although i'm fond of the steering wheel for some reasom.
just bought my torque wrench and breaker bar. result! it should have come to £108 and then she put it through the till.... £85 please. yee hah! ;)
1.8 exhibits all the same flaws as the entire range. Truely horrible car. Nothing else comes close to being as bad.
You need some trade cards. I picked up a 300Nm torque wrench from Hellfrauds the other day - to make the journey rescuing the Useless Student worthwhile - £48, retail price £80.
-
What was bad about it? The Mrs. has had hers for a few years now and no problems whatsoever. Quite comfortable too.
Gutless (1.6) compared to the other car we had at the time (1.6 Rover 25)
A load of ECU bugs (kept going to idle and/or stalling), otherwise reliable enough
Too small (compared to the Rover 25)
Really didn't like corners.
Positively, without doubt, the worse car either of us have ever had, and we've had some junk in our time. It was a cheap lease car (£165 a month, all in (except fuel), for 2yrs), but it was a long 2 years tolerating it.
Fair enough.
The wife's is a 1.8 and it's practical enough. not too bad on fuel consumption either.
However , even though it's comfortable i simply hate the dash and the styling. although i'm fond of the steering wheel for some reasom.
just bought my torque wrench and breaker bar. result! it should have come to £108 and then she put it through the till.... £85 please. yee hah! ;)
1.8 exhibits all the same flaws as the entire range. Truely horrible car. Nothing else comes close to being as bad.
You need some trade cards. I picked up a 300Nm torque wrench from Hellfrauds the other day - to make the journey rescuing the Useless Student worthwhile - £48, retail price £80.
Yeah i will do.
i've read the post about the autobahnstormers so will prob do that cos i'm still going to need things even if i've got most of my basic tools.
that's a big discount! i'll apply for one too if they let me.
-
Afaik Halfrauds trade cards are not as easy to come by as they used to be. :-\
-
Afaik Halfrauds trade cards are not as easy to come by as they used to be. :-\
Took me about a year before I had a successful blag....
-
Afaik Halfrauds trade cards are not as easy to come by as they used to be. :-\
Took me about a year before I had a successful blag....
it's like that is it! lol
how did you blag?
-
What was bad about it? The Mrs. has had hers for a few years now and no problems whatsoever. Quite comfortable too.
Gutless (1.6) compared to the other car we had at the time (1.6 Rover 25)
A load of ECU bugs (kept going to idle and/or stalling), otherwise reliable enough
Too small (compared to the Rover 25)
Really didn't like corners.
Positively, without doubt, the worse car either of us have ever had, and we've had some junk in our time. It was a cheap lease car (£165 a month, all in (except fuel), for 2yrs), but it was a long 2 years tolerating it.
Fair enough.
The wife's is a 1.8 and it's practical enough. not too bad on fuel consumption either.
However , even though it's comfortable i simply hate the dash and the styling. although i'm fond of the steering wheel for some reasom.
My mother's got an early Focus, and I don't get on with it at all.
The styling is hideous. It looks like the front, back and detailing were done by three teams who weren't allowed to see what the rest were doing.
The interior is worse. Plus there's less space in it than the preceeding Escort.
The seats are too small, and too high in the car, so it feels like you're sitting on it, rather than in it.
The steering wheel is too small, and has a stupidly fat rim. Feels like you're holding a pie dish.
If you really wring it out, it goes OK. But in a family hatchback, who wants that?
Handling is the same; it goes around corners really well, but the ride is worse than the 2.8i Capri I had when she got it. How is that possible?
It is reliable although she makes up for that by needing a new clutch every 30K miles. At £430 a go, that's pretty costly!
-
....
but the ride is worse than the 2.8i Capri I had when she got it. How is that possible?
......
I don't believe that is actually possible ......................... ;D ;D ;D ;D
-
....
but the ride is worse than the 2.8i Capri I had when she got it. How is that possible?
......
I don't believe that is actually possible ......................... ;D ;D ;D ;D
Its not too bad a ride, little harsh maybe.
I accept Ford ca't make a decent engine nowadays, but the lack of any cornering ability is unacceptable. That said, on the absolute ragged edge, it can do corners. Its when cruising, it slips, slides, and exhibits extreme inconsistency. To the point of being dangerous.
-
When did Ford ever make a decent engine ? :-\
They used to bolt other peoples head designs onto some of their engines to make them good,but dont recall any of theirs designed and manufactured from scratch for mass prodution being much cop.
-
When did Ford ever make a decent engine ? :-\
They used to bolt other peoples head designs onto some of their engines to make them good,but dont recall any of theirs designed and manufactured from scratch for mass prodution being much cop.
they never made a good engine