Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: kcl on 25 January 2012, 10:25:29
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Anyone have any methods to have camber set up reasonably close to tolerance without any special equipment after struts have been off in a situation where no measures have been taken nor any marks have been made? Should just get close enough to have the car driveable.
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A flat surface, some triganometry and a spirit level works well.
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Ok, so I will just calculate what would be correct measure in millimeters to corresponde the 1'20" angle? Anyone fancy giving me the millimeters ::) I've got 205/65 tyres on 15" steel rims if it makes any difference...
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7.8mm
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I just love this forum! Thanks! :y
Just to confirm: I have the car level, wheels on ground, loosen lower strut nut and prise the wheel to correct position? Or is it the upper bolt that has oval hole?
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Slacken both bolts, and drop a suitable cold chisel/wedge between the strut and hub-carrier.
Tap downwards with a lump hammer until the desired setting's achieved.
Re-tighten bolts.
Then get the correct setting professionally done ASAP.
Top bolt-hole in strut is elongated - yes.
;)
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Thanks :y The given tolerance for camber is quite wide (yes, I know, it should be set to 1'10" or 1'20" or how it was) so I think I can live with this "rough" set through the winter :y
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Made some measurements on the wheels. Spirit level was 390 mm long and wheels were 12 and 14 mm tilted and calculated 1,76 degrees and 2,05 degrees so well within tolerance :-\ But, what MTDM gave above, was only 7,8 mm which would give on a 15 inch rim (381 mm) only 1,17 degrees which is OUT of tolerance (1,67...2,42 degrees)
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Ignore the figures you have as they assume a new car, suspension the lot.
We setup to the WIM settings and hence the figures provided. :y
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Ok. So I should be putting them closer to 8mm from current status.
One daft one: must I try to adjust them wheel on the ground and if so, how on earth can the blots be reached?
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I set them off the ground and then re-fit the wheel, roll it back adn firth a few times to level the suspension and then measure. Repeat a few times to get the best setting
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I set them off the ground and then re-fit the wheel, roll it back adn firth a few times to level the suspension and then measure. Repeat a few times to get the best setting
Just out of intrest, how "close" to correct camber you can get with "manual" setting?
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I set mine up manualy and when taken for geo they required no adjustment.... think they were at about -1.08.
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If there's no measurement taken from wheel rim to shock body prior to dismantling (as the guide) there's no choice but to set, drop the car, measure, re jack, set, measure, repeat until happy.
I would suggest checking the toe once camber is done, see very last post in test zone. Just to see its not miles out.
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Toe
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=53390.0
If needed. Wip though.
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I used a digital angle gauge on mine, largely because I already had it. These are readily available and cost less than £30.
It's magnetic, so I found a short length of angle iron and cable tied that to the wheel. This was after I had zeroed it on the rest of the angle iron laid between the front wheels.
Then we loosened the strut bolts, and with the car on it's wheels set the camber by moving the wheel(and therefore the hub) with a long pole(padded jack handle). The hardest part was tightening the bolts again as access is very limited with the car on the ground!
This worked pretty well until the O/S bolts loosened and killed the inside edge of the tyre.
This is technique is similar to one a friend uses on his single seat race car, so is certainly going to get it pretty close IF carried out with care.