Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tunnie on 19 February 2012, 22:43:15
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Finally got around to oil pressure testing my 3.2, looks like its suffering from low oil pressure when very hot.
From cold its fine, but when is up to temp, the idle pressure dropped as low as 17-19 Psi, although it would hover around 20 Psi.
Popped the gauge on TB's 3.2 & it stayed noticeably higher, never dropped below 25 Psi, his appeared to hover around 30 Psi.
Book of 'dangle berries' says it should never go lower than 21, so that suggests a problem.
I understand the oil pressure relief valve is inside the oil pump? Guess if you have to strip down that far, might as well change the pump too?
Would thicker oil help :-\
Oh and thanks to TB today for his helpful advice as always :y
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proves that the shell garage upsetting him by never having fuel causing him to bury his right foot into the pile works wonders for his engine, on a lighter note hope you get sorted as never a good feeling knowing it not working right
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How many miles has it done and what grade of oil is in it now? I'd try a slightly thicker oil first and see if that helps as long as it's not too thick when its cold. Failing that I'd say oil pump. Is the pressure when it's cold the same as TB's too?
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Its done 138k & its got standard GM 10/40 Semi Synth in it, along with lifter treatment at the moment.
Sadly did not check it when cold, but it sounds fine started cold, no tapping at-all.
Think like oil pressure drops too low, not giving enough to fill some of the lifters. :-\
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some good info there :y
http://www.international-auto.com/fiat-lancia-tips-on-reading-gauges/tips-on-reading-gauges-oil-pressure-gauges.cfm
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Its done 138k & its got standard GM 10/40 Semi Synth in it, along with lifter treatment at the moment.
Sadly did not check it when cold, but it sounds fine started cold, no tapping at-all.
Think like oil pressure drops too low, not giving enough to fill some of the lifters. :-\
I'd read the pressure on both cars when it's cold too. If the oil pump is on the way out then the pressure will still be down, just might not sound like it with the oil being thicker when cold. If you have lifter treatment in, I'd give it another oil change and see from there. If a bit of crap has come from the lifters and is blocking something, fresh oil might flush it out. Might be worth trying an engine flush too.
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Worth droppping the sump to check the pick up strainer isnt blocked with crud before replacing pump ?
Afaik,changin the oil pump on the V6 is a major operation. :-\
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"Certainly engines that have experienced significant ring and liner wear benefit from thicker oils. Thicker oil use results in compression increases, performance improvements and reduced oil consumption."
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils
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Its done 138k & its got standard GM 10/40 Semi Synth in it, along with lifter treatment at the moment.
Sadly did not check it when cold, but it sounds fine started cold, no tapping at-all.
Think like oil pressure drops too low, not giving enough to fill some of the lifters. :-\
I'd read the pressure on both cars when it's cold too. If the oil pump is on the way out then the pressure will still be down, just might not sound like it with the oil being thicker when cold. If you have lifter treatment in, I'd give it another oil change and see from there. If a bit of crap has come from the lifters and is blocking something, fresh oil might flush it out. Might be worth trying an engine flush too.
Its already had 4 oil changes inside 1,500 miles, so doubt another change would help.
Worth droppping the sump to check the pick up strainer isnt blocked with crud before replacing pump ?
Afaik,changin the oil pump on the V6 is a major operation. :-\
Sump dropped, strainer checked all clear :y
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Thicker oil might improve the pressure at the guage .. but will probably do more harm in the long term. Oil pressure is a mixture of 2 factors, the output flow from the pump - no pump EVER produces pressure, a pump produces flow .... nowt else - and the resistance to that flow provided by the various pipes and galleries within the engine .. pressure being resistance to flow.
SO, the low pressure you are seeing is caused by one of 2 things ... either the pump flow is reduced - blocked pickup strainer, knackered pump ..... or the resistance to flow is wrong ... this can be interrnal wear ... big ends known to cause such, or some other internal "leak".
Now .... once oil pressure is lower than normal it cannot make its way to all the remote parts of the engine that need lubricating ... so they suffer from loss of oil especially if there is an internal "leak" of some sort as the oil takes the easiest path and the flow rate through the "bigger" holes increases..... using thicker oil will make this WORSE as that oil will take the easier path even more readily than the thinner stuff.
The same ideas apply to high oil pressure as it happens ... high pressure is too much resistance so the oil is not circulating correctly, something is not getting lubricated, the flow rate is now too low ... use a "thinner" oil or "turn down" the pressure at the pump and the remote parts get even less oil.
It is for these reasons that engines have an oil specification and maximum and minimum stated oil pressures, go outside those parameters and you ask for trouble.
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SO, the low pressure you are seeing is caused by one of 2 things ... either the pump flow is reduced - blocked pickup strainer, knackered pump ..... or the resistance to flow is wrong ... this can be interrnal wear ... big ends known to cause such, or some other internal "leak".
It is for these reasons that engines have an oil specification and maximum and minimum stated oil pressures, go outside those parameters and you ask for trouble.
Thanks Entwood, very much appreciated. :y
Certainly learning a few things here about how oil pressure in an engine and how it works.
Pickup strainer has been checked, number of people confirmed while it was up in the air that although there were a few deposits in it, nothing to worry about. Its since had that oil dropped & changed. The oil does stay clean too, which i think is a good sign.
I've heard big end knock on a V6 before, this 3.2 does not have it.... yet! Driving about it goes like a 3.2 should & sounds like it should from the cabin. Its only once you open window and stick you head out can you notice it. Its not burning any oil either, level staying good.
I did once, briefly, shut it up. Parked with engine running at MrsT flat, traffic warden approached. I may have left some rubber on the tarmac leaving him, letting my frustration be known ::) It had been idle for a few mins, then almost straight to red line, spun around, came back, stopped again. Got out, silent! :o
But soon came back, think that hard blast perhaps forced some oil into one of the lifters which is suffering at low pressure? :-\
I guess without stripped down to the oil pump, not a lot else to check?
With the amount of effort involved to reach the pump, I assume its best just to replace it with a known working one?
Thanks for everyones help and advice so far :y :y
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SO, the low pressure you are seeing is caused by one of 2 things ... either the pump flow is reduced - blocked pickup strainer, knackered pump ..... or the resistance to flow is wrong ... this can be interrnal wear ... big ends known to cause such, or some other internal "leak".
Pressure relief valve being one mooted previously.... ?
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Thicker oil might improve the pressure at the guage .. but will probably do more harm in the long term. Oil pressure is a mixture of 2 factors, the output flow from the pump - 1.no pump EVER produces pressure, a pump produces flow .... nowt else - and 2.the resistance to that flow provided by the various pipes and galleries within the engine .. pressure being resistance to flow.
SO, the low pressure you are seeing is caused by one of 2 things ... either the pump flow is reduced - blocked pickup strainer, knackered pump ..... or the resistance to flow is wrong ... this can be interrnal wear ... big ends known to cause such, or some other internal "leak".
Now .... once oil pressure is lower than normal it cannot make its way to all the remote parts of the engine that need lubricating ... so they suffer from loss of oil especially if there is an internal "leak" of some sort as the oil takes the easiest path and the flow rate through the "bigger" holes increases..... using thicker oil will make this WORSE as that oil will take the easier path even more readily than the thinner stuff.
The same ideas apply to high oil pressure as it happens ... high pressure is too much resistance so the oil is not circulating correctly, something is not getting lubricated, the flow rate is now too low ... use a "thinner" oil or "turn down" the pressure at the pump and the remote parts get even less oil.
It is for these reasons that engines have an oil specification and maximum and minimum stated oil pressures, go outside those parameters and you ask for trouble.
as its my subject, just wanted to correct a few definitions :y
1. every turning pump creates pressure so flow can be established..
2. before everything, the fluid itself has a resistance to flow defined by viscosity units which also changes by temperature and pressure.. and also the resistance of those pipes and galleries is a function of the fluid viscosity ( and also their diameter, length etc )
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its the main bearings on the crank that carry the pressure Mark, if they are worn the engine will have low oil pressure when hot,its possible to change them with the engine in the car , problem is knowing which size vxhall used when building the lump!! many had production tolerance problems and were resized at the factory!!
the only really difficult one is the gearbox end as access to the main bearing is not possible without dropping the gearbox although you can change the bottom half!!
it will probably run for years like it if its only on tickover its pressure is low, whats the pressure reading at 2.5k rpm?
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its the main bearings on the crank that carry the pressure Mark, if they are worn the engine will have low oil pressure when hot,its possible to change them with the engine in the car , problem is knowing which size vxhall used when building the lump!! many had production tolerance problems and were resized at the factory!!
the only really difficult one is the gearbox end as access to the main bearing is not possible without dropping the gearbox although you can change the bottom half!!
it will probably run for years like it if its only on tickover its pressure is low, whats the pressure reading at 2.5k rpm?
More than 1k, its way up 50/60 psi, rising further with revs.
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its the main bearings on the crank that carry the pressure Mark, if they are worn the engine will have low oil pressure when hot,its possible to change them with the engine in the car , problem is knowing which size vxhall used when building the lump!! many had production tolerance problems and were resized at the factory!!
the only really difficult one is the gearbox end as access to the main bearing is not possible without dropping the gearbox although you can change the bottom half!!
it will probably run for years like it if its only on tickover its pressure is low, whats the pressure reading at 2.5k rpm?
:y :y :y
ps: Omegatoy, referring to an old thread to what oil to use in manual gearbox, you were right (I finally realized why) EP 80 which I use was ok for summer but too thick for cold winter months..first 2 gears very hard when tempertures below 0 and car is cold.. so I will use sae 75w-90 next winter.. :y
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its the main bearings on the crank that carry the pressure Mark, if they are worn the engine will have low oil pressure when hot,its possible to change them with the engine in the car , problem is knowing which size vxhall used when building the lump!! many had production tolerance problems and were resized at the factory!!
the only really difficult one is the gearbox end as access to the main bearing is not possible without dropping the gearbox although you can change the bottom half!!
it will probably run for years like it if its only on tickover its pressure is low, whats the pressure reading at 2.5k rpm?
More than 1k, its way up 50/60 psi, rising further with revs.
in that case my guess would be stuck or sticky relief valve in the pump!! but if it getting that high the lifters should be full of oil and not making any noise at all unless they are very dirty and sludged up!!
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in that case my guess would be stuck or sticky relief valve in the pump!!
That was my suspicion...
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its the main bearings on the crank that carry the pressure Mark, if they are worn the engine will have low oil pressure when hot,its possible to change them with the engine in the car , problem is knowing which size vxhall used when building the lump!! many had production tolerance problems and were resized at the factory!!
the only really difficult one is the gearbox end as access to the main bearing is not possible without dropping the gearbox although you can change the bottom half!!
it will probably run for years like it if its only on tickover its pressure is low, whats the pressure reading at 2.5k rpm?
:y :y :y
ps: Omegatoy, referring to an old thread to what oil to use in manual gearbox, you were right (I finally realized why) EP 80 which I use was ok for summer but too thick for cold winter months..first 2 gears very hard when tempertures below 0 and car is cold.. so I will use sae 75w-90 next winter.. :y
good news Cem, straight 80 is very thick when cold, but the 75/90 is just right in the cold temps!!
glad you noticed a difference though or i could be accused of not knowing what im talking about lololol
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its the main bearings on the crank that carry the pressure Mark, if they are worn the engine will have low oil pressure when hot,its possible to change them with the engine in the car , problem is knowing which size vxhall used when building the lump!! many had production tolerance problems and were resized at the factory!!
the only really difficult one is the gearbox end as access to the main bearing is not possible without dropping the gearbox although you can change the bottom half!!
it will probably run for years like it if its only on tickover its pressure is low, whats the pressure reading at 2.5k rpm?
:y :y :y
ps: Omegatoy, referring to an old thread to what oil to use in manual gearbox, you were right (I finally realized why) EP 80 which I use was ok for summer but too thick for cold winter months..first 2 gears very hard when tempertures below 0 and car is cold.. so I will use sae 75w-90 next winter.. :y
good news Cem, straight 80 is very thick when cold, but the 75/90 is just right in the cold temps!!
glad you noticed a difference though or i could be accused of not knowing what im talking about lololol
I know your knowledge level.. and you were right.. :y
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Yeah as TB says, pressure shoots up with any amount of revs. Topped out at around 80Psi near the red line.
It's drives fine day to day, only notice it of get out with engine running.
Just sounds awful :(
How long to strip down & replace the relief valve? (not me someone who knows what they are doing)
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Yeah as TB says, pressure shoots up with any amount of revs. Topped out at around 80Psi near the red line.
It's drives fine day to day, only notice it of get out with engine running.
Just sounds awful :(
How long to strip down & replace the relief valve? (not me someone who knows what they are doing)
You don't, you run something in the oil that disolves the sticky crud that's attached to it... however, if I mention the words i'm likely to get shot down in flames for eternity!
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Yeah as TB says, pressure shoots up with any amount of revs. Topped out at around 80Psi near the red line.
It's drives fine day to day, only notice it of get out with engine running.
Just sounds awful :(
How long to strip down & replace the relief valve? (not me someone who knows what they are doing)
You don't, you run something in the oil that disolves the sticky crud that's attached to it... however, if I mention the words i'm likely to get shot down in flames for eternity!
He has already tried a strong flush...
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Yeah, used some tecsol that Omegatoy gave me years ago, strong stuff. No effect. :(
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Yeah, used some tecsol that Omegatoy gave me years ago, strong stuff. No effect. :(
lol you said earlier oil now stays clean, but it wont disolve a lump of something other than lumpy oil,
my bet is the relief valve has a score in the bore and is sticking, flush wont solve that!! needs to be removed and ball and bore polished till it runs smooth again!! :y
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Yeah, used some tecsol that Omegatoy gave me years ago, strong stuff. No effect. :(
lol you said earlier oil now stays clean, but it wont disolve a lump of something other than lumpy oil,
my bet is the relief valve has a score in the bore and is sticking, flush wont solve that!! needs to be removed and ball and bore polished till it runs smooth again!! :y
Is that an offer? When you back in the UK? :)
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Yeah as TB says, pressure shoots up with any amount of revs. Topped out at around 80Psi near the red line.
It's drives fine day to day, only notice it of get out with engine running.
Just sounds awful :(
How long to strip down & replace the relief valve? (not me someone who knows what they are doing)
You don't, you run something in the oil that disolves the sticky crud that's attached to it... however, if I mention the words i'm likely to get shot down in flames for eternity!
He has already tried a strong flush...
Ah sorry, must read the entire thread next time! :-X
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Pressure relief valve is in a bore in the top of the oil pump covered by a plug that is easily accessible with the cam belt cover off, IIRC, so probably not a bad job to pull it out and debur the piston and bore.
Agreed, that sounds like the most likely problem. It's probably sticking slightly and not fully seating when the engine returns to idle. Although I'd expect much lower pressure at idle, that's dropping a little too much, IMHO.
VX specification is 1.5 BAR at idle (21 PSI) and I'd expect an engine in good condition to be well clear of the minimum.
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Confirm this can just be done with cambelt cover off?
Never done one, but if so, I'd be happy to have a look sometime Mark...
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Pressure relief valve is in a bore in the top of the oil pump covered by a plug that is easily accessible with the cam belt cover off, IIRC, so probably not a bad job to pull it out and debur the piston and bore.
Agreed, that sounds like the most likely problem. It's probably sticking slightly and not fully seating when the engine returns to idle. Although I'd expect much lower pressure at idle, that's dropping a little too much, IMHO.
VX specification is 1.5 BAR at idle (21 PSI) and I'd expect an engine in good condition to be well clear of the minimum.
Thanks Kevin, very interesting. It was a tad worrying seeing it drop to around 17 Psi, but as mentioned before, just any amount of revs pressure appears good.
If its just the belt cover off, then that sounds good. I had visions of a large strip down to access.
Confirm this can just be done with cambelt cover off?
Never done one, but if so, I'd be happy to have a look sometime Mark...
Thanks for the offer James, I've never done anything related to the oil pump before. Be a good excuse for a curry too?
Are we looking at just cambelt cover off? Belt stays on?
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It's no drama if the cambelt has to be popped off :y
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Its not easy to do with the belt and water pump in palce (easier with them removed) as the bolt is bloody tight!
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Yeah, used some tecsol that Omegatoy gave me years ago, strong stuff. No effect. :(
lol you said earlier oil now stays clean, but it wont disolve a lump of something other than lumpy oil,
my bet is the relief valve has a score in the bore and is sticking, flush wont solve that!! needs to be removed and ball and bore polished till it runs smooth again!! :y
Is that an offer? When you back in the UK? :)
WAS SUPPOSED TO BE IN UK end of feb beginning of march, dont look like its gonna happen now with the situation here :-\ but its a fairly easy job to do, let you know if i can get back!! but it could be a fair time yet!!
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Thanks Everyone :y
Got next job to do, just finding a time when one of the experts are available :)
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WAS SUPPOSED TO BE IN UK end of feb beginning of march, dont look like its gonna happen now with the situation here :-\ but its a fairly easy job to do, let you know if i can get back!! but it could be a fair time yet!!
Aah, so, good for me then, going to be popping over to see you once the Omega A is in the garage. We'll be in the camper!
Jon
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WAS SUPPOSED TO BE IN UK end of feb beginning of march, dont look like its gonna happen now with the situation here :-\ but its a fairly easy job to do, let you know if i can get back!! but it could be a fair time yet!!
Aah, so, good for me then, going to be popping over to see you once the Omega A is in the garage. We'll be in the camper!
Jon
:y ;D :y ;D LOOK FORWARD TO IT jON
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Surely your not that excited by my impending visit that you have to shout??? ;D
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Tunnie... where in London are you? Rail/Tube nearby?
Sort out my (cheap advance) train ticket and plentiful supply of beer, and we can soon pop the cambelt kit off ... (I wouldn't bother renewing it, let's see if it fixes the issue first)...
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Wondering if pulling out the relief valve if its worth just replacing it. No idea how much they are though...
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Wondering if pulling out the relief valve if its worth just replacing it. No idea how much they are though...
Used known goood?
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Wondering if pulling out the relief valve if its worth just replacing it. No idea how much they are though...
Used known goood?
If a new one is cheap, why faff around...
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Wondering if pulling out the relief valve if its worth just replacing it. No idea how much they are though...
Used known goood?
If a new one is cheap, why faff around...
Totally agree :y
My reply was more geared at your comment about not knowing how much they'd be - so what I meant was, if they're a lot of money, and they're generally reliable, then a known good item is an option :y
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Wondering if pulling out the relief valve if its worth just replacing it. No idea how much they are though...
Used known goood?
If a new one is cheap, why faff around...
Totally agree :y
My reply was more geared at your comment about not knowing how much they'd be - so what I meant was, if they're a lot of money, and they're generally reliable, then a known good item is an option :y
The likely issue is that the old one is stuck in its' bore, though, which is probably a combination of burring on the bore and the valve. You can pop a new valve in but if the bore is still scored it will do exactly the same thing.
Better to take the old one out and inspect it and the bore first, then deburr both with a scotchpad or similar.
A new valve wouldn't be a bad idea if they are pennies in case the old one is so stuck you have to damage it to remove it.
Having said that, I know this is a common problem with the C20XE and SBD make a nylon replacement relief valve that is supposed to cure it once and for all. Not sure if the same valve is used on the V6. Might be worth an inquiry.. IIRC it was not cheap, though.
Either way, if the bore is not perfectly smooth any replacement valve will stick.
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What about replacing the whole pump? If its been stripped down that far, is it worth just swapping it out for a known good one? :-\
Tunnie... where in London are you? Rail/Tube nearby?
Sort out my (cheap advance) train ticket and plentiful supply of beer, and we can soon pop the cambelt kit off ... (I wouldn't bother renewing it, let's see if it fixes the issue first)...
Thanks for the offer, but here in London is not the ideal place to work on cars. I have zero tools here :(
Its only an hour for my to drive home & have the garage available, I'd much prefer to do it there. :y
Just have to source a time & possible replacement parts :)
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The likely issue is that the old one is stuck in its' bore, though, which is probably a combination of burring on the bore and the valve. You can pop a new valve in but if the bore is still scored it will do exactly the same thing.
Better to take the old one out and inspect it and the bore first, then deburr both with a scotchpad or similar.
A new valve wouldn't be a bad idea if they are pennies in case the old one is so stuck you have to damage it to remove it.
Having said that, I know this is a common problem with the C20XE and SBD make a nylon replacement relief valve that is supposed to cure it once and for all. Not sure if the same valve is used on the V6. Might be worth an inquiry.. IIRC it was not cheap, though.
Either way, if the bore is not perfectly smooth any replacement valve will stick.
Lack of me knowing that the valve isn't a complete unit, presumably its just the the insert that unscrews then? Is the outside/bore part of the pump casting?
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Yep, bore is cast into the pump housing. There's a piston in the bore that moves against a spring to open a bypass passage as oil pressure reaches the correct value.
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If the design is similar to that on most engines there will be a hard steel bucket with a spring inside it pushing it down the bore against the oil pressure.
If the bore is soft aluminium there is a tendency for the bucket to gouge steps in the bore and get stuck. Alternatively a bit of swarf can get stuck in the relief port and stop the bucket from returning to its seat.
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bear in mind that the spring and valve are the opposite way round to most engines.
it's cam belt cover, cam and cam belt rear (steel) cover off to get the valve out.
Have been here four times now with Omegas and in each case, it's been worn big ends.
I'd suggest the following in this order ( yes, I know you've done some of these already )
check coolant mass temperature ( a malfunction here will thin out the oil )
sump off and check strainer and big end condition.
oil change and some thicker oil
pump off for a good clean-out.
and then it's engine out.
For what it's worth, I have changed a crankshaft without taking the engine out in an Omega, so it is possible, but it's rather a faff.
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I never actually checked the oil pressure on my old 2.5 but I suspect that it may have had minimal oil pressure (at idle) once it reached 140,000 miles. I switched to fully synthetic Dexos 2 and it ran like a well oiled sewing machine (with loose big ends) until it was scrapped (due to rust) at 200,000 miles.
As a last resort..... I saw last week that VX are selling remanufactured 3.2 engines on tradeclub for £1500.
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Did yours tapp at hot idle? Did fully synth oil solve noise issue?
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Did yours tapp at hot idle? Did fully synth oil solve noise issue?
I originally switched oil because it seemed to be taking a long time to build oil pressure after a cold start on very cold mornings.
It did sound 'loose' when hot with a mysterious rattle from the rear sump area. I don't think changing oil actually fixed anything but I do believe the fully synth oil helped it to keep running to 200,000 miles.
The main point of my post was not to worry too much. :y
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While driving I don't mind it, its just when I stop & get out, it does not sound like it should. From cabin all is well, even with no radio on.
If a cam needs to come out to replace/checkout this valve, that's a considerable amount of work. Perhaps its just me wanting perfection from the engine ::)
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As replacement/investigation is way beyond my skill level, I'd no doubt have an expert around to help, as they would be making big effort to get to me, i'd want to get it done in one go.
How much extra work is involved in replacing the whole pump? Just swap it out for a known good one? Not really seen many other Omega's with fault like this :-\
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Was this problem ever resolved Tunnie?
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No, I'm just putting up with it. Appears to have no affect on performance, just wish it was not quite so noticeable. :-\
While I'm sure it could be resolved, the effort involved does not really appear justified. Its outside my skill to fix, paying for it to be done does not make sense given cars low value.
I'll just run with it, done 2k+ without issues, if it goes bang then I'll just source a new engine.
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No, I'm just putting up with it. Appears to have no affect on performance, just wish it was not quite so noticeable. :-\
While I'm sure it could be resolved, the effort involved does not really appear justified. Its outside my skill to fix, paying for it to be done does not make sense given cars low value.
I'll just run with it, done 2k+ without issues, if it goes bang then I'll just source a new engine.
I'd tend to go with Stu's diagnoses of failed big ends. SWMBO's Smart had the same low idle oil pressure issues. Last Christmas saw the engine rebuilt, the big ends were fubar'd. Oil pressure is now OK ........... other bit were changed too though ie cam chain & sprockets which were really really fubar'd.
If Stu has replaced a crank with the engine in situ, then big ends should be easily done when the sump is off. :y :y
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Its not big end noise though, many here have heard it. It really is a top end tappet noise, which gets less noticeable if its been stood for a few mins after a long hard blast.
Sump dropped, everything looks good. (as inspected by TB & KW) internals look good.
I'd happily volunteer my car as a donor for the guide on Changing Oil pressure relief valve ::) ;D
I have *once* had it silent at idle when hot, parked at MrsT flat, waiting for her to return, a traffic warden asked me to move. After 5 mins of idle, it went to the red line :-X
Got out to put some stuff in car, noticed it was how a V6 should be when hot! Not been able to repeat that though :(
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Its not big end noise though, many here have heard it. .....
Neither was SWMBO's Smart, but having said that,it was hard to hear anything above the noise of the cam chain! ??? ;D ;D
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Its not big end noise though, many here have heard it. .....
Neither was SWMBO's Smart, but having said that,it was hard to hear anything above the noise of the cam chain! ??? ;D ;D
Hummm :-\
Its all sweet as a nut when cold/luke warm. :-\
Chris, you breaking that chaved up MV6 yet? ::)
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Tunnie, how loud is this tapping? I get tapping but it's defintely not something that I'd worry about as it's not too loud. is it embarrassingly (spell check) loud?
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Yeah it is a bit, from inside the cabin you cannot hear it. Only outside, its only at idle though, some revs and you then cannot tell.
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I've heard it, it really is only the top end, nowhere Deap enough to be bottom end and location is just under the rear(?) of the plenum, and gets very slightly and slowly louder as it warms up on idle.
It's much quieter than the slightest lifter noise I've ever heard, tbh. But it is undeniably there.
I wouldn't worry too much, personally.
There won't be a decission on the Chav for a whole yet btw. But your name is on it etc.
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I wouldn't worry too much, personally.
There won't be a decission on the Chav for a whole yet btw. But your name is on it etc.
Cheers Chris :y
Yeah I'm not too fussed about it really, still goes fine and driving around normally sounds like it should. If there is a chance to change it, will take it :) :y