1
Omega General Help / Re: Can't do the pedal trick, throttle goes mad!
« on: 06 June 2014, 19:40:31 »
Thanks for the replies guys. I just clean what I could and it worked. Wish I could tell you what it was but I ain't got a clue 
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2
Omega General Help / Re: Can't do the pedal trick, throttle goes mad!
« on: 01 June 2014, 12:06:16 »
Hi All and thanks for the responses.
Yep engine fires up ok, runs, revs and drives but as you drive down the road it's like the butterfly opens and closes of it's own accord, the EML and Spanner lights flash on, speedo and rev counter drop to zero...then a second later it's ok, then X amount of time later it does it again or when you put your foot down or go up a hill.
With the engine not running and with the ignition on...the EML and spanner flash alternately, then when the throttle body stops going mad they stay on together...a second later they go off and 30 seconds later they do the same again.
With ignition on and accelerator pedal fully down, the butterfly just goes closed to open non stop and the warning lights flash alternately until you lift off the pedal...this is what's stopping me from getting the fault codes...I know there is at least a couple of codes as the pedal trick worked once but my pen wouldn't work.
Thanks again
Press down hard and quickly on the accelerator, the engine makes a loud sucking sound and the warning lights come on...but it ticks over lovely.
Yep engine fires up ok, runs, revs and drives but as you drive down the road it's like the butterfly opens and closes of it's own accord, the EML and Spanner lights flash on, speedo and rev counter drop to zero...then a second later it's ok, then X amount of time later it does it again or when you put your foot down or go up a hill.
With the engine not running and with the ignition on...the EML and spanner flash alternately, then when the throttle body stops going mad they stay on together...a second later they go off and 30 seconds later they do the same again.
With ignition on and accelerator pedal fully down, the butterfly just goes closed to open non stop and the warning lights flash alternately until you lift off the pedal...this is what's stopping me from getting the fault codes...I know there is at least a couple of codes as the pedal trick worked once but my pen wouldn't work.
Thanks again
Press down hard and quickly on the accelerator, the engine makes a loud sucking sound and the warning lights come on...but it ticks over lovely.
3
Omega General Help / Can't do the pedal trick, throttle goes mad!
« on: 31 May 2014, 14:18:27 »
Hi All.
When I tried to do the pedal trick the EML and spanner light both flick on and off. I can hear the throttle body making a noise. The throttle body keeps moving the butterfly. When I press down on the accelerator pedal it keeps opening and closing the butterfly.
When the ignition is left on and without starting the engine or touching the accelerator pedal, every minute (approx) the butterfly tries closing then opens a little bit, it does this for a about 30 seconds then settles, then a minute or so later does it again.
It has to be a sensor somewhere but I can't get the codes.
Any ideas please?
Thanks
When I tried to do the pedal trick the EML and spanner light both flick on and off. I can hear the throttle body making a noise. The throttle body keeps moving the butterfly. When I press down on the accelerator pedal it keeps opening and closing the butterfly.
When the ignition is left on and without starting the engine or touching the accelerator pedal, every minute (approx) the butterfly tries closing then opens a little bit, it does this for a about 30 seconds then settles, then a minute or so later does it again.
It has to be a sensor somewhere but I can't get the codes.
Any ideas please?
Thanks
4
Omega General Help / Re: When The Decision To Scrap Comes.
« on: 30 May 2014, 14:14:09 »
Check the chassis rails behind the front wheels. Mine has had it (along with many other things) and is now on ebay (sorry mods 
)
)
5
Omega General Help / Re: TC and spanner lights on after 30 seconds in drive
« on: 16 January 2014, 12:01:47 »
Cheers for the input Guy's.
Oooops I'd put that bit back then.
Funny you mention the floods Kev. The car actually performs ok when wet!!! Selects the gears ok, changes to 4th earlier, is quicker changing down to 1st so it's more responsive, no flickering gear lever lights, no TC light and no spanner light. They it drys out and it all starts.
At one point whilst it was changing gear it revved to max (I just kept my foot in the same place n didn't back off the revs) then it changed gear. However, it blew the webbing stuff out of the rear box and all my other repairs blew as well so this might be why it's more responsive...sounds nice though lol
Just can't figure out why it should be the best it's ever been when it rains...more economical, changes gear and other things just seem better.
Could it be that the wet helps make an earthing perform better?
Any ideas anyone?
Thanks
Oooops I'd put that bit back then.
Funny you mention the floods Kev. The car actually performs ok when wet!!! Selects the gears ok, changes to 4th earlier, is quicker changing down to 1st so it's more responsive, no flickering gear lever lights, no TC light and no spanner light. They it drys out and it all starts.
At one point whilst it was changing gear it revved to max (I just kept my foot in the same place n didn't back off the revs) then it changed gear. However, it blew the webbing stuff out of the rear box and all my other repairs blew as well so this might be why it's more responsive...sounds nice though lol
Just can't figure out why it should be the best it's ever been when it rains...more economical, changes gear and other things just seem better.
Could it be that the wet helps make an earthing perform better?
Any ideas anyone?
Thanks
6
Omega General Help / Re: TC and spanner lights on after 30 seconds in drive
« on: 07 January 2014, 08:42:10 »
Cheers Andy.
Much the same view as Kev. Can't believe that a switch is almost the same cost as a whole gearbox! So I'm knackered now and looking at other ways that may cure this.
Since posting I've topped up with about 250ml of fluid. This is easily done with an empty Harpic or possibly even a Toilet Duck bottle...bit of info for the maintenance guide there possibly...cheaper that a garden sprayer.
I also noticed an adjuster about 6 inches behind the switch on the actuating lever. Had a play around with that to take up the slack.
What's happening now is that after a short run the gear lever lights seem to settle down in to the correct position after all being on at the same time...almost like the gearbox ECU is having a delayed reaction. Then at some random time it throws a wobbly for no apparent reason and they all come back on again, then 30 seconds later the spanner light and TC light come on. When I put it in to neutral and freewheel for a bit, switch the ignition off then restart the car, drop it in to Drive or 3rd is better, the lights turn off and it's fine till the next time which is whenever it decides too, rather something regular and predictable.
It's almost like there's a lose connection somewhere other than the selector switch that causes a short which confuses the gearbox. This also happens when stationary if I wobble the gear lever side to side. Is there current running through the actuating arms that join the selector switch and gear lever together? Cheers
Much the same view as Kev. Can't believe that a switch is almost the same cost as a whole gearbox! So I'm knackered now and looking at other ways that may cure this.
Since posting I've topped up with about 250ml of fluid. This is easily done with an empty Harpic or possibly even a Toilet Duck bottle...bit of info for the maintenance guide there possibly...cheaper that a garden sprayer.
I also noticed an adjuster about 6 inches behind the switch on the actuating lever. Had a play around with that to take up the slack.
What's happening now is that after a short run the gear lever lights seem to settle down in to the correct position after all being on at the same time...almost like the gearbox ECU is having a delayed reaction. Then at some random time it throws a wobbly for no apparent reason and they all come back on again, then 30 seconds later the spanner light and TC light come on. When I put it in to neutral and freewheel for a bit, switch the ignition off then restart the car, drop it in to Drive or 3rd is better, the lights turn off and it's fine till the next time which is whenever it decides too, rather something regular and predictable.
It's almost like there's a lose connection somewhere other than the selector switch that causes a short which confuses the gearbox. This also happens when stationary if I wobble the gear lever side to side. Is there current running through the actuating arms that join the selector switch and gear lever together? Cheers
7
Omega General Help / TC and spanner lights on after 30 seconds in drive
« on: 31 December 2013, 10:20:55 »
Hi. This is new thread but relates to a previous thread as there's more info.
This problem happens even if the engine isn't running. The car is fine if driven in 3rd but is obviously very expensive.
With the ignition switched on, engine running or not, and the car in drive it takes roughly 30 seconds for the TC and spanner lights to come on there's also a sound from the gearbox.
When moving the gear lever the gearbox lights all flicker, sometimes all lighting up before settling down but in Drive they all stay on. The snow and sport switches don't work when it's like this either.
This happens regardless of the TC being switched on or not.
Kevin has mentioned the selector switch which I'm aiming to look at when the rain stops...probably in the spring!
However, the lights will all flicker even when the gear leaver is wobbled just slightly and the selector switch isn't operated by moving between 1 and P.
So the question is (eventually)...Is there an electrical connection either at the base or through the gear lever under the gator that could cause this problem?
I've always suspected there's an electrical problem with the car. When I park at my local shop the parking lights come on when the ignition is switched off...yes, only at my local shop facing a certain way at a specific spot. I get more MPG with the MAF unplugged. The air con doesn't work any more. The fuel gauge seems to have a mind of it's own...there's always more fuel indicated when I get back to the car...even when I'm driving sometimes! When I'm under the rear of the car with it ticking over I can hear the fuel pump stumble simultaneously with the revs stumble. There's others but I won't bore you with them. Starting to think it's the end of the road for this car.
This problem happens even if the engine isn't running. The car is fine if driven in 3rd but is obviously very expensive.
With the ignition switched on, engine running or not, and the car in drive it takes roughly 30 seconds for the TC and spanner lights to come on there's also a sound from the gearbox.
When moving the gear lever the gearbox lights all flicker, sometimes all lighting up before settling down but in Drive they all stay on. The snow and sport switches don't work when it's like this either.
This happens regardless of the TC being switched on or not.
Kevin has mentioned the selector switch which I'm aiming to look at when the rain stops...probably in the spring!
However, the lights will all flicker even when the gear leaver is wobbled just slightly and the selector switch isn't operated by moving between 1 and P.
So the question is (eventually)...Is there an electrical connection either at the base or through the gear lever under the gator that could cause this problem?
I've always suspected there's an electrical problem with the car. When I park at my local shop the parking lights come on when the ignition is switched off...yes, only at my local shop facing a certain way at a specific spot. I get more MPG with the MAF unplugged. The air con doesn't work any more. The fuel gauge seems to have a mind of it's own...there's always more fuel indicated when I get back to the car...even when I'm driving sometimes! When I'm under the rear of the car with it ticking over I can hear the fuel pump stumble simultaneously with the revs stumble. There's others but I won't bore you with them. Starting to think it's the end of the road for this car.
8
Omega General Help / Re: TC light on, gear shift lights confused
« on: 29 November 2013, 14:25:14 »
Cheers Kev 
Probably because of all the extra use it's had lately. Would this also bugger up the TC?
Just nipped down the road and everything was fine, even using the "gears".
Neglected to mention I have a busted/broken off offside rear suspension strut but it's been like it a while now.
Also, what do you think of the increase in fuel left in the tank with higher revs in 3rd gear?
Thanks again
Probably because of all the extra use it's had lately. Would this also bugger up the TC?
Just nipped down the road and everything was fine, even using the "gears".
Neglected to mention I have a busted/broken off offside rear suspension strut but it's been like it a while now.
Also, what do you think of the increase in fuel left in the tank with higher revs in 3rd gear?
Thanks again
9
Omega General Help / TC light on, gear shift lights confused
« on: 29 November 2013, 12:50:58 »
Hi Guys
Sorry not been here for a while, so busy with a multitude of things, got a new MAF and it's been fine since...thanks for the previous advice However :-
Some weird things are happening now. Was driving normally and there was a big thud from the rear of the car, the car slowed down, the TC and spanner lights came on and the gear indicator lights were all flashing. Completely lost any decent acceleration and had to shift in to 1st to pull away. Every time I change gear it does so with a thud and the change is delayed, the rev counter seems to lag behind the sound of the revs.
Got home and moved the gear shifter all the way between 1st and park. 1st gear lights up in park, move to 1st gear and 2nd lights up with all lights flashing in what seems to a synchronized way before it settles in to what it thinks it should be. Drive doesn't light up unless all lights are flashing. Switched heather blower on and all lights by the gear shift flash, turn lights on and they do the same.
Go out the next day, car starts beautifully, no TC or spanner lights on, select "D" pull away and ...thud...TC and spanner lights on and the car looses power...this is the same every time. Select 1st and drive "manually", lights flashing between changes and there's no change in to 4th when selecting Drive. Fuel consumption is absolutely horrendous i.e. 9 miles to a tenner!!!!!!!
A few months back I started to select "3" for pulling away and only shifting in to "D" when I needed an "overdrive". I had noticed the fuel gauge go up (yes on an Omega) whilst driving, the miles left in the tank on the MID increased as well!!! I realised that the engine was revving high for the speed I was doing and looked down at the gear shift which was in 3rd not "D", the revs were over 2K....weird I know but cant help feeling all these things are connected.
MPG is slightly improved when driving "manually". I now get about 40 miles to a tenner @£130/liter.
Anyway, enough prattling on. What do you make of it please?
Oh yeh, I get 1700 and 1500 with the pedal trick. Yet to try my oriental super code reader with android.
Thanks in advance
Sorry not been here for a while, so busy with a multitude of things, got a new MAF and it's been fine since...thanks for the previous advice
However :-Some weird things are happening now. Was driving normally and there was a big thud from the rear of the car, the car slowed down, the TC and spanner lights came on and the gear indicator lights were all flashing. Completely lost any decent acceleration and had to shift in to 1st to pull away. Every time I change gear it does so with a thud and the change is delayed, the rev counter seems to lag behind the sound of the revs.
Got home and moved the gear shifter all the way between 1st and park. 1st gear lights up in park, move to 1st gear and 2nd lights up with all lights flashing in what seems to a synchronized way before it settles in to what it thinks it should be. Drive doesn't light up unless all lights are flashing. Switched heather blower on and all lights by the gear shift flash, turn lights on and they do the same.
Go out the next day, car starts beautifully, no TC or spanner lights on, select "D" pull away and ...thud...TC and spanner lights on and the car looses power...this is the same every time. Select 1st and drive "manually", lights flashing between changes and there's no change in to 4th when selecting Drive. Fuel consumption is absolutely horrendous i.e. 9 miles to a tenner!!!!!!!
A few months back I started to select "3" for pulling away and only shifting in to "D" when I needed an "overdrive". I had noticed the fuel gauge go up (yes on an Omega) whilst driving, the miles left in the tank on the MID increased as well!!! I realised that the engine was revving high for the speed I was doing and looked down at the gear shift which was in 3rd not "D", the revs were over 2K....weird I know but cant help feeling all these things are connected.
MPG is slightly improved when driving "manually". I now get about 40 miles to a tenner @£130/liter.
Anyway, enough prattling on. What do you make of it please?
Oh yeh, I get 1700 and 1500 with the pedal trick. Yet to try my oriental super code reader with android.
Thanks in advance
10
Omega General Help / Re: Volts at MAF plug?
« on: 16 April 2013, 12:57:07 »
Cheers Webby
I saw a post with the readings but I'll be buggered if I can find it again
Cheers
I saw a post with the readings but I'll be buggered if I can find it again
Cheers
11
Omega General Help / Re: MAF readings
« on: 16 April 2013, 12:55:29 »
Long term 0% (but recently had battery disconnected for 24 hours), short term flips either side of 0% but never more than about +/-5
I made a note of this :-
TID 01 CID 05
Rich to lean sensor threshold voltage Max 140 Current 117
CID 06
Rich to lean sensor threshold voltage Max 140 Current 102
EVAP 7.06% but doesn't change with revs (ebay scanner i suspect)
H2oS 788.12mV
PC Solenoid 3.1 amps
Volumetric efficentcy 23%
Vacuum 22.7%
Lambda's flipping nice and uniformly between .1 and .8
No EML on (famous last words lol) but there was fuel trim codes raised
I made a note of this :-
TID 01 CID 05
Rich to lean sensor threshold voltage Max 140 Current 117
CID 06
Rich to lean sensor threshold voltage Max 140 Current 102
EVAP 7.06% but doesn't change with revs (ebay scanner i suspect)
H2oS 788.12mV
PC Solenoid 3.1 amps
Volumetric efficentcy 23%
Vacuum 22.7%
Lambda's flipping nice and uniformly between .1 and .8
No EML on (famous last words lol) but there was fuel trim codes raised
12
Omega General Help / Re: MAF readings
« on: 16 April 2013, 12:28:46 »
That's ok Kev, no worries.
It's idling at about 620 to 670 on the scanner but the rev counter says 500. The MAF is 3.75gms/sec until the fans come on then the MAF reading increases to 5/5.5...it went up to 6 when I put other electrics on/turned the steering wheel...but the was no increase in revs noted.
MAF is 15.8gms/sec at 2460 revs.
The revs don't increase when pumping the break pedal anymore...not that I did anything to solve it other than cross my fingers lol even though you did mention brake servo suspicions before.
But as mentioned the F/T increases to +25% when pumping the brakes.
Breathers are clear, servo pipe in good nick but do have a slight hissing sound from rear of the engine (well documented here as you know). I've spent hours sitting on the engine with the scuttle off trying to suss out where it's coming from but just can't pinpoint it. Can't even tell if it's a sucking hiss or blowing hiss.
The air con doesn't work anymore but all 3 fans come on when needed.
The longer the car is left after driving the harder she struggles to hold on to tick over when restarted. i.e. in the morning is worst. However after a couple of minutes there is the sound of a solenoid clicking from behind the plenum and hey presto sweet as a nut.
If I remove the U pipe off the rear multi ram when not running there is a loud hissing as air enters the pipe indicating that there is no loss of vacuum.
I think that's all, you can see why I need that Tech2 now
Cheers
Dave
It's idling at about 620 to 670 on the scanner but the rev counter says 500. The MAF is 3.75gms/sec until the fans come on then the MAF reading increases to 5/5.5...it went up to 6 when I put other electrics on/turned the steering wheel...but the was no increase in revs noted.
MAF is 15.8gms/sec at 2460 revs.
The revs don't increase when pumping the break pedal anymore...not that I did anything to solve it other than cross my fingers lol even though you did mention brake servo suspicions before.
But as mentioned the F/T increases to +25% when pumping the brakes.
Breathers are clear, servo pipe in good nick but do have a slight hissing sound from rear of the engine (well documented here as you know). I've spent hours sitting on the engine with the scuttle off trying to suss out where it's coming from but just can't pinpoint it. Can't even tell if it's a sucking hiss or blowing hiss.
The air con doesn't work anymore but all 3 fans come on when needed.
The longer the car is left after driving the harder she struggles to hold on to tick over when restarted. i.e. in the morning is worst. However after a couple of minutes there is the sound of a solenoid clicking from behind the plenum and hey presto sweet as a nut.
If I remove the U pipe off the rear multi ram when not running there is a loud hissing as air enters the pipe indicating that there is no loss of vacuum.
I think that's all, you can see why I need that Tech2 now
Cheers
Dave
13
Omega General Help / Volts at MAF plug?
« on: 16 April 2013, 01:11:29 »
Thought I'd do this in a separate post.
What should the voltages be if connecting the volt meter red wire to the MAF plug and earth the black wire please?
I can't see anyway of testing with the MAF plugged in.
Cheers
Dave
What should the voltages be if connecting the volt meter red wire to the MAF plug and earth the black wire please?
I can't see anyway of testing with the MAF plugged in.
Cheers
Dave
14
Omega General Help / Re: MAF readings
« on: 15 April 2013, 23:28:02 »
Dare I say it.....Android Torque with an ebay bluetooth adapter.....I know I know lol
It clears the codes and responds very quickly.
I've had some trouble with high revs when pumping the brakes before and I've also had trouble with fuel trim codes/EML on when making right turns and going over speed bumps. The car can be absolutely fine, MID consumption was 18 but went up to 19.1 after a 3 mile drive today.
But I am having problems starting, well holding tickover, which I thought had been cured.
I've got 4 MAF's and get different things happening with each one.
I PM'd Kevin last week to see if he can Tech2 it for me, as I now have a bit of cash for a change, but as yet no reply.
She's a bit mixed up and I have the MOT on Wednesday!
It clears the codes and responds very quickly.
I've had some trouble with high revs when pumping the brakes before and I've also had trouble with fuel trim codes/EML on when making right turns and going over speed bumps. The car can be absolutely fine, MID consumption was 18 but went up to 19.1 after a 3 mile drive today.
But I am having problems starting, well holding tickover, which I thought had been cured.
I've got 4 MAF's and get different things happening with each one.
I PM'd Kevin last week to see if he can Tech2 it for me, as I now have a bit of cash for a change, but as yet no reply.
She's a bit mixed up and I have the MOT on Wednesday!
15
Omega General Help / MAF readings
« on: 15 April 2013, 23:07:11 »I'm getting a MAF reading of 5gms/sec on tickover.
Then when the cooling fans come on it drops to 3.25gms/sec. When the fans go off it goes back to 5gms/sec. Is this normal please? This also happens if I turn the steering wheel, turn the lights on or operate a window.
I've noticed the MID flicker when something electrical is switched on.
Is there a voltage regulator that could have failed? Or a common bad earth? I've cleaned up the earth connections under the battery. Is there any others?
Also, what voltage readings should I be getting from the MAF plug if I put the red wire in a connector gap and the black wire to earth?
Also, when I pump the brake pedal the fuel trims increase to +25% on both banks. Then drop to -25% before settling again to "normal" of -5% to +5%. Is this also normanl.
Cheers
Dave