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There is a new old stock secondary air system valve, GM 90466214, on ebay at the moment. It's grubby looking so it hasn't sold, so the seller has relisted it several times. Now starting at £15.00 + postage @ £3.75. I'd 'make an offer' and see what happens. Can't be worse than one from a scrapper. If you do buy the valve then blow through the vacuum ports with compressed air.Sir you are a star. I have just bought that part as mine is fuba. I am having a hell of a time to locate a part even a second hand part from a breakers. mine is broken off so it does not work at all.
This electric solenoid valve switches vacuum to actuate the secondary air injection valve that sits to it's left in your photo (in the other thread). This injection valve is not the HBV heater bypass valve.
The injection valve inlet hose connects to a one way (aka check) valve that is screwed onto a metal pipe that is bracketed to the engine. V6 check valves are made by Pierburg, yours might be as well. This pipe in turn will connect to the secondary air pump. When the air pump is running and the solenoid activated vacuum will open the secondary air injection valve and air pumps into the exhaust ports. This should only happen when the engine is cold.
So you don't want the secondary air injection valve to be failed or otherwise stuck open.
The RPM is calculated from the signal provided by the crank sensor. So both lists are correct.0335 is crank sensoraccording to the fault code list for the 2.0 0335 is incorrect rpm signal. it is however for the 2.2 a crank sensor.
0340 is cam sensor
I *think* the 2.0l can "run" with only one of them working, but might be a bugger to start.
P0335 is a standard OBDii code for a problem with the crankshaft speed sensor.
P0340 is a standard OBDii code for a problem with the camshaft speed sensor.
I suspect that the engine needs to crank for more than a pre-defined period, without starting, before the ECU will try to operate with no cam signal. (Or vice-versa on some non V6 engines). Try cranking for at least 10 seconds. If no start then try at least 20 seconds.
It looks like both the crank and cam sensors connect directly to the Simtec ECU. So if your sensors are good then the fault must be in the loom feeding the sensors. Most likely the mating halves of the connectors on the sensors.
I find it hard to believe that both sensors failed at the same time. So I'm also wondering under what circumstances a failed crank sensor could induce a false positive in the cam sensor.
Try a wanted post on here. I think some of the SAAB's use the same piece, someone hopefully confirm if they do or don't. I used the part number and it came up with a second hand one for a SAAB, same part number. It is also used on quite a few Vauxhalls, so might be worth checking local scrap yard for one.
Here are the ones, that the first diagram link recons the cars that have the same part.
VALVE,SECONDARY AIR SYSTEM [90466214]
VECTRA-B VECTRA-A
CORSA-B + TIGRA-A
CALIBRA OMEGA-B
ASTRA CLASSIC
FRONTERA-A
SINTRA
ASTRA-F
Here is the link for one off a SAAB, with the part number in the listing just incase it is ok for your engine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173867662544
Fuel? How much in the tank? Does the pump prime when you turn the ignition on?
0335 is crank sensoraccording to the fault code list for the 2.0 0335 is incorrect rpm signal. it is however for the 2.2 a crank sensor.
0340 is cam sensor
I *think* the 2.0l can "run" with only one of them working, but might be a bugger to start.
If I'm looking at that picture right - the broken part isn't the heater bypass valve (that's the round thing on the left of the picture) but rather the solenoid that drives the heater bypass valve (you can see the electromagnet coil hanging out of the housing; it switches the vacuum on/off to the HBV.that is the part that is broken. the one with the electrical plug at one end and two vacuum hoses at the other.
So you want the electrical solenoid; if you buy a heater bypass valve you'll get the vacuum operated water valve, instead
The 2ltr has a Heater Bypass Valve in the middle of the engine at the back, it is vacuum driven. The piece shown is similar to what is on my wifes. If I remember correct it is part of the secondary air system, the large rubber pipe should goto a large metal piece that looks like a sort of valve, that goes to the exhaust manifold. I have just had to remove the pipe in the picture and the metal pipe, to remove the exhaust manifold.the broken part is part #9 in your picture.
https://opel.7zap.com/en/car/v94/g/0/54-1/ I think the piece is numbered as 1 in the diagram.
It's the heater by-pass valve. Vacuum operates a diaphragm inside to regulate/control the water flow through the heater matrix.
Like Tunnie, I'm not that au fait with the 4 pot car's HBV but the V6's isn't too bad to change (once you've got to it)
