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1021

Omega General Help / Re: Non-Starting Elite Estate

« on: 25 February 2018, 17:39:51 »

If the original crank sensor was replaced (12 months ago?) and has since been giving trouble it might be that it's the wrong one. As I recall there are two different versions with an oval connector fitted to V6s. One is Bosch GM-part 90542073 and the other is Siemens-GM-part 90492061. Although they both fit apparently they are not interchangeable.

There is also a crank sensor with a rectangular 3 pole connector. That's GM-part 90492006, not sure of the original manufacturer or application. Possibly 3.2 V6?

Is there anything to help identify the one you removed and the one from Heathrow?

1022

Omega General Help / Camshaft locking key for 16 valve

« on: 22 February 2018, 04:05:22 »

The cheapest locking wedge I can find  for a twin cam 16V seems to be a Draper 61276 at £4.77 on ebay. The Draper seems to be plastic so is it up to the job? There's a metal Sykes Pickavant at £6.99.

1023

Omega General Help / Re: Keeping brake discs from going rusty

« on: 22 February 2018, 03:45:15 »

The original GM discs are painted with a primer like coating on the unswept areas. That stops the outer circumference rusting. Nothing will prevent surface rust on the swept area, except using the car which will quickly clean the discs. You can get aftermarket discs that are coated. They tend to be more expensive than the vanilla versions.

1024

Omega General Help / Re: rear exhaust section for 2003 Omega 2.6 v6 saloon

« on: 22 February 2018, 03:23:42 »

Or consider one from here.

15 months ago I made an offer on the (350) 2.5/2.6 single tailpipe version and agreed on £68.00 delivered. It shipped from Germany in less than a week and was a lot more solid that I had expected. The rear box tail pipe is a very utilitarian compared to the GM originals, but likely so are the ETS ones.

1025

Omega General Help / Re: car battery

« on: 09 February 2018, 23:21:17 »

Make and CCA?
I've always found same or higher CCA more important for reliable starting than nominal capacity, especially in cold weather.

1026

Omega General Help / Re: What is this hose? Y32SE

« on: 07 February 2018, 11:55:56 »

Stiff black plastic tube? Then it's the autobox ventilation tube. You leave it unobstructed with the open end pointing downwards so nothing can drop in. Perhaps cable tie it to the rubber oil breather tube at the back?

1027

Omega General Help / Re: Cam kit & water pump on V6

« on: 02 February 2018, 00:22:01 »

Any links, please?

Ron.

Unipart GKT1453XS Timing Cam Shaft Belt Cam, 93188674 @ £62.80
4 kits remaining, 1 sold 10/04/17@£30 and 1 sold 06/09/2017=£45

Somebody bought the New/Other kit listed at £29.99.

1028

Omega General Help / Re: Cam kit & water pump on V6

« on: 01 February 2018, 12:41:52 »

some unipart  kits on at the moment for £62 . seems a good deal

By the looks of it the Unipart GKT1453XS kit at £62.99 has SKF bearings  and is probably a re-branded SKF kit, might be old stock but even so I would have thought it should be fine. Seems the two sold earlier went for £30 and £45. So I would would send the vendor a message and make an offer. See what happens.

That said somebody else has the Unipart kit at £29.99 as New/Other with free delivery and the 'Make Offer button. (Missing original box?)

As I recall the original GM kits and and maybe some Gates kits used INA bearings. But I doubt if there is any difference in quality.
The kit also seems to have the revised design of rollers so ideally you need a Sealey VS1301 spanner or a similar tool as well as the locking kit.

1029

Omega General Help / Re: Front Strut Top hat alignment

« on: 29 January 2018, 00:14:15 »

The discussion is about the coil spring upper seat, item 2 in this drawing.

My apologies for the broken link to the drawing that I posted earler. Here is the corrected link that works.
Item 2 in this drawing.

1030

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Strange result

« on: 28 January 2018, 13:32:16 »

I was referring to the fact that as soon as I reconnected the battery, ignition key not in, before I got back in the car, the radio came straight on without a requirement for the radio code, or even to be switched on.

Sounds like another indication that the car sees a key in the ignition barrel. A reassembly error, something stuck or dropped and lost on the floor?
Was the original fault, whatever it was that prompted the switch replacement, fixed by the new Febi switch?

1031

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Strange result

« on: 28 January 2018, 02:49:03 »

The warning buzzer is supposed to sound when the the key is still in the barrel and you open the drivers door. A warning to remember to remove the key. Yours was sounding with the key removed and the door open. So the door open detection is working but the key in ignition detection has something wrong with it, however that's done? Is there something stuck or missing on the barrel? Perhaps a bad connection or dirt or maybe a fault in the Febi switch.

On most of the radios if the power has been disconnected then the radio will default back to ignition key control.
So yours switching on automatically would seem to fact the facts. I wonder if the failure to auto off is related to the key detect issue.
To check/change the status.

• Ignition on
  Turn off radio
  Press and hold preset buttons 1 & 3
  Continue to press and switch radio on
  Continue to press and 'IGN ON' or similar should appear in the display
  Continue to hold and release the buttons when you hear a beep
  The display should change to 'IGN OFF' or similar
  Repeat the procedure to revert to 'IGN ON'

If the radio has had it's power disconnected but doesn't ask for the code it means that the code protection was disabled.
To switch it on again I think you have to follow the usual steps to enter the code. IE ignition on, radio off, press and hold AS button etc.

1032

Omega General Help / Re: Hedgehog!

« on: 27 January 2018, 13:06:39 »

Is there an off the vehicle method to test if a hedgehog is working?

1033

Omega General Help / Re: Front Strut Top hat alignment

« on: 27 January 2018, 05:07:54 »

I'm just changing the top strut mounts and I didn't follow what are you aligning with the hole??

The discussion is about the coil spring upper seat, item 2 in this drawing.
It fits into the rubber damper ring numbered 4 and together they sit on the top of the spring. However the upper seat's proper orientation is not immediately apparent.

Omega A/Carlton and Senator B use the same system. The Haynes manual for the Carlton says "The small hole in the upper seat must be positioned on the opposite side of the steering knuckle (Fig 10.5)." That would be inboard when the strut is mounted on the car.

That would seem to be at variance with Doctor Gollum's findings posted above which has the larger drain hole inboard and the smaller hole outboard. Or have I misunderstood? Haynes Fig 10.5 is also ambiguous.

In your case I would make a paint mark on the upper seat relative to some known point before you compress the spring or disassemble the strut. You might find that there are already factory white and/or green paint marks. And it might well be that the Haynes manual has got the holes mixed up or maybe the holes are a red herring. Might be the factory paint marks that should be used for alignment.

Yours is LHD so if I was re-using the springs I'd put them back on the side they were originally fitted to. If you remove the struts, you'll need to get your suspension geometry checked and adjusted somewhere with the right equipment and that might be expensive. Hence it might be an opportunity to renew the springs.

1034

Omega General Help / Re: Hedgehog!

« on: 26 January 2018, 09:56:01 »

Is/was there any water in the passenger footwell? That would indicate a blocked scuttle drain which apparently wrecks the hedgehog. Maybe yours has now dried out.

1035

Omega General Help / Re: Hedgehog!

« on: 26 January 2018, 03:05:39 »

On a more serious note, buy yourself a good pair of safety specs. With this job it's too easy to have something drop in your eyes.
I found the hedgehog fitted to a 2003 a bit easier to reach than in a 1996. The revised air duct and cable tray allow better access.
You need to remove the lower securing screws for the airbag and pull the bottom edge forward a bit. That will allow access to the, otherwise hidden, top mounting screws of the glovebox. Since you're disturbing the airbag you're well advised to have left the battery disconnected for a while before you start.

Scaremongering 'dangle berries'...

The three allen bolts merely hold the bottom of the airbag cover in place The airbag itself has at least four independent bolts holding it to the dash frame/bulkhead. Just be sure to fully tighten them on refitting, otherwise the airbag may not deploy correctly

OK. I could have been a bit clearer. I meant the screws securing the bottom of the airbag cover. And yes, strictly speaking the airbag itself does not need to be disturbed unless maybe you want to get the blower out.