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Messages - Manual Elite V6

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106
General Discussion Area / Re: Speed limits to be cut again ?
« on: 14 July 2012, 14:18:34 »
I have seen a few national speed limit roads go to 40mph lately her in Wales, but the problem I see mostly is not the speed limit, but the drivers on the road. Most problems I have come across are people who can't stick to their own lane or people simply driving too slow and driving too close to the car in front etc, driving too slow is just as dangerous as driving too fast, even when the road is not suitable for 60mph but it is still safe to do 45-50mph in the majority of cars I have come across people doing 15mph in a national speed limit, you the wait for a stretch of road that is long enough and has a clear enough view to overtake safely without exceeding the speed limit and these idiots have the nerve to flash you and beep their horns making hand gestures as you pass.

107

As a license is needed to store acetylene a good substitute for at home is propane, my boss has recently replaced the acetylene with propane to save money, although the flame is larger and it doesn't burn nearly as hot it does get the fastening more than hot enough to loosen them up.

Care to expand on that? Although there are regulations regarding how you store acetylene(or any other compressed gas for that matter),including how much, what's kept near it, and the actual cage it's kept in, I can find nothing about a licence. Plus the regulations state that they only apply to industrial applications.

I'm not convinced about using propane as, to me, the whole point of having the kit is that it's usable for welding, cutting and heating, all without the need for power.

I was told whilst in college a license is needed to store the acetylene but not to use it, as for using propane, the only reason the boss has changed to this is that it is cheaper and we do not use it for anything other than heating objects.

108
Omega General Help / Re: cat removale
« on: 06 July 2012, 21:46:35 »
New MOT rules brought in from April state that if a cat is fitted as standard it has to be present at MOT time, even on a diesel.

109
If all you want to do is heat up threadlock, then a heat gun might work, and a blowtorch will probably work.

If you're trying to shift a seized or damaged fastener(exhaust manifold nuts/bolts/studs are typical examples), then you'll need to get the entire fastener red hot. That will require oxy-acetylene welding gear. Anything else will be a waste of time/consumables.  And if you're going to use heat, use it before you damage/round off/snap the fastener using any other method.

As a license is needed to store acetylene a good substitute for at home is propane, my boss has recently replaced the acetylene with propane to save money, although the flame is larger and it doesn't burn nearly as hot it does get the fastening more than hot enough to loosen them up.

110
Omega General Help / Re: Exhaust Manifold Gasket
« on: 03 July 2012, 23:22:54 »
Thanks again, you have made finding my list much easier  :y

111
Omega General Help / Re: Exhaust Manifold Gasket
« on: 03 July 2012, 23:10:47 »
Thanks for your help, I'm already prepared for that just wanted to make sure, should hopefully get it done in around 3 hours, I may leave it till I do the clutch and do it all at once while the downpipes are disconnected.

112
Ok, so I've now done 500 or so miles since converting to manual....

All in all, bedded in very well. Am used to clutch uptake and gear change - all good there.

The remaining niggles:

1) Need T2 to configure it as a manual, and remove TC light.

2) Sometimes if given a rev from idle, it will hold the revs at 1.5k for some time, before suddenly dropping to normal, after over revving for a minute or so.  Have removed inlet, replaced all LPG plumbing, checked all vacc pipes, all good. Need to see MAF readings at idle to go further, and my KIT is fubar. No codes. This problem is worse on LPG (but aren't all problems)

3) got an annoying squeek from gearstick!

4) Seems to be a few flat spots when booting in second. But still stupldly powerful. Wonder if this is because ECU needs telling it's not an auto anymore.

5) The mid range good condition tyres I have on the back, are no good for a 3.2 manual. Premuim tyres ONLY on this combo.

6) If I was being REALLY picky, probably a small amount of play in the drivetrain

7) The box does like to whine in the lower gears. Even SWMBO is making sarcastic digs about hearing the gearbox over the radio! Maybe if I get a really nice day and am at a loose end (yeah right!) I'll pop the other manual box on there I have in the shed!

That's about it!

Other than, I STILL need a gaitor, and original gear knob, to replace the, er, "alternative" silver one!

Do I regret it? Not at all! As before it's soooo much more usable than an auto.

I overtook a car on an A road the other day, and the plank gave it all he had in his Golf to try and stop me getting past.  >:( The ten year old 3.2 ate it for breakfast  8) (making him look a little silly in front of his Barbie!)

I hate it so much when people do that, I had some idiot in a Corsa SRi pull out in front of me and start doing 15mph in a 40 trying to be a clown in front of his mates, I dropped the box into 2nd and overtake, the idiot then tries to stop me overtaking also swerving towards me to try and stop me, he ended up looking a fool when he couldn't catch me, people really underestimate the V6 Omega in manual form.

113
General Car Chat / Re: autobox
« on: 03 July 2012, 22:42:29 »
Personally I prefer manual over auto but that is personal preference as I just feel more in control in a manual, also when you start to get problems with autoboxes they can become very pricey to rectify.

114
Omega General Help / Exhaust Manifold Gasket
« on: 03 July 2012, 21:04:17 »
I have read that the engine needs to be raised to change the passenger side exhaust manifold gasket, my question is does it have to be raised to replace the drivers side as mine is blowing, there seems to be a lot more room on the drivers side, I know that I need to remove the coolant transfer pipe, would just like to know before I get round to doing the job so I know what is involved and so that I am prepared.

Thanks.

115
General Car Chat / Re: Head Removal
« on: 03 July 2012, 21:00:36 »
Could be down to poor servicing blocking one of the oil ways, I have seen this on an S-Type jag where it got so hot the camshaft actually snapped, I would clean up the heads as best I could when its off and hopefully that would help it, though there could be excess wear on the cams so the noise most likely won't be eliminated but maybe it would quieten down when it gets sufficient oil feed.

116
General Car Chat / Re: Head Removal
« on: 03 July 2012, 20:28:27 »
Hi guys,

Had my induction at Motor School yesterday  8)  I think I'm going to enjoy it and surprisingly there was a number of adults there too. One guy is getting his qualification to aid his Visa application for Canada..... an idea for the future one summises  8) 8) 8) 8)

Anyway back to Camp Ralf for the time being and I've stripped the car down to the point where I've removed the camshaft bearing shells (and put them safely away in order) and the cambelt is all removed. However really can't get the sprockets loose so my hope was that I could loosen the cambelt rear cover and lift cover with camshafts and sprockets as all one piece. However the rear cover don't want to move! I'm presuming this is because the retaining screws are behind the cam sprockets  ::) Anyone any ideas?

Also an inspection of the cam shafts has revealed that the furthest back cam lobe on camshaft 1 appears to have burn marks on  ??? just that one lobe and it certain;y doesn't look good. I'm wondering if this is where I;m going to be finding the problem for the why the car sounds like a tank. Anyone ever experienced this?

When the head (just head 1 for now) does get pulled out I'm wanting to get the valves out to inspect them. Am I correct in thinking I need a ''Valve Compression Tool''?

Today seriously wishing I had a warm workshop with a radio  :'(

Anyways that's it from me today other than it's not long til I set up a blog. I plan to put in it everything I've learned from college if anyone wants to follow the bear on his travels  8) I've decided not to do the Level 3 and to start at the beginning at Level 1 (Level 1 City & Guilds in ''Automotive Maintenance & Repair'') because I'm thinking if I fail to become a ''diagnostic technician'' on the level 3 at least I'll have the mechanics certificates so i can at least persue this as a career... albeit probably given the boring servicing jobs  ::) but at least it's better than writing letters to people  :y

That sounds like oil starvation to the back of the head to me, as for level 3 in college I think you made a good choice, I did the level 3 before I had started my apprenticeship and it was the biggest waste of time ever, the only thing it helped me with was not having to go to college one day a week, it is mostly written assignments with 2 or 3 hours practical a week, the level 1 and 2 is more practical with a few exams.

117
Omega General Help / Re: Another traction control topic
« on: 30 June 2012, 02:27:53 »
As I found found from experiece the TC light sometimes comes on when the TPS is faulty or not connected properly.

118
General Car Chat / Re: Is Wynns Lifter Treatment any good?
« on: 30 June 2012, 02:01:30 »
Just put in the normal amount of oil, the treatment won'e make much difference to the level, thats how I have always done it anyway.

119
I would hate to see the bill for spark plugs for that bike!  :o

120
General Car Chat / Re: Is Wynns Lifter Treatment any good?
« on: 29 June 2012, 22:00:11 »
I have used this many times with good results, also recommended it to a few friends who also had good results.  :y

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