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Messages - o-meg-a

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106
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty Wheelarch, is the end Nigh ?
« on: 30 March 2011, 17:59:18 »
not really. its probs not as deep set as you may think.
Sure if its showing thru the paint, its got to a certain stage, but as long as you remove as much, if not all of it and re seal then it should not come back.

Its a case of grinding it off and getting it back to metal, all be it with some holes if its that bad.
Then as you say, either yourself or a bodyshop patching the holes and filling, sanding and the hardest part!! SPRAYING!.

thats the bit where the finish is hard to achieve as a novice.
But the rust treatment itself i would say is managable.

107
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty Wheelarch, is the end Nigh ?
« on: 30 March 2011, 17:36:52 »
not hard to really sort.
Just have to be thorough in removing it.

It also depends on how good you want the arches to look after. because removing the rust is one thing.
Doing the body work after to make it look normal is another.


108
Omega General Help / Re: pull to the left
« on: 28 March 2011, 01:52:15 »
Camber of the road?

110
Omega General Help / Re: Twang or Bang
« on: 28 March 2011, 21:38:07 »
my car made a similar bang recently, sounded like spring, checked them all over, all fine. So i'm confused lol.
My back right end squeaks and creaks a little, so that may be related.
who knows, Might have just been a spring resettling itself.

111
Quite easy to get off without the key.

had to take the same ones off mine with no key recently as it had been lost by a previous owner.

PM and i will explain my method.
Only took half hour for all 4 and no damage to wheels at all.

You will need nuts to replace though. As they do get kinda mashed.

112
Just final update,
All temps seem to be under control by the electric fans.
I sat in a car park in the 20 degree heat we had day before yesterday and let it run with heaters off etc.
Got to bout 96 and then fans must have cut in as it dropped back down to about 93ish.
nice to hear the intercooler fan too lol.

And i can finally hear that nice 6 cylinder engine note on acceleration.
 :y

113
Yeah I tried that.
It doesnt help unfortunately.

Think I just need a new tensioner piston.

114
Cheers,
I have left the viscous off after reading about it on here.
On the drive today in 17 degree heat  :D ::) ;D it definitely got warmer than before, but didnt get above 95 or 96 and that was when goin uphill.
Most of the time is around 92-3 which is what it was before.

That is without the chip in mind. So i'll check it again with that in when it comes back.
As for the sound without it! Can actually hear what the engine sounds like now lol.

Although overall sound levels are quieter of course.

I may take you up on the shocker thing as i'm sure mine is a touch weak, and i've got an annoying squeel/squeak coming from the tensioner pulley (i thinik), that goes away when i rev. Will PM.
thanks

115
Well wasnt today a fun day lol

Got it all done in the end.
But what a caper!!  :D

Eventually got the viscous undone by usung the open end of a 10mm spanner o one of the loosened pulley bolts and bracing that across the other one. Acted like the Sealey tool mentioned above.The i braced that a against a 9mm spanner held against the engine and my hand.

Then after bending said bolt i was resting against, it eventually came undone.

To top it all off then,
Was Fitting the new water pump, screwing in the bolt a bit at a time around the four of them.
None of them were anywhere near tight,
and then what do you know,
1 sheared off! right there and then under hardly any pressure.

Took the pump off again, there was enough thread hanging out of the block for me to be able to grab it with some pliers and undo it.

Anyway, had to walk to town to get new bolts from the hardware shop.
Fitted.
Tighten, replaced everything.

And now the tensioner looks like its a bit weak.
The tensioner pulley is bouncing a millimeter or 2 at idle. Still hold the belt and doesnt slip, but will need doing eventually.
That should be pretty easy though, having done this.

New coolant in.
job done.

NEVER AGAIN!! lol
I dont think my knuckles could take it

116
I'm trying to replace my water pump,
but i'm stuck at the fan and have been for 4 hours..... >:(
I'm at the point of actually destroying my car with a lump hammer because i'm so wound up.


I have my 32mm open spanner....but for the life of me i cant find a way to brace the water pump.
No matter how i do it.....just cant do it,

I'm bleeding from every knuckle...
My patience is thinner than the skin on my knuckles now...

I've tried wd40....i've tried releasing the nuts on the pulley slightly and using a spanner to brace them.


BENT THE NUTS, so now i need new ones of those too...
 Someone please help.

I need the car in 4 hours to drive to my girlfriends for her birthday...and i need it fro work on saturday..

I WILL NOT PAY a garage to do this job when it is just one nut holding me back

117
Omega General Help / Re: Brake rumble
« on: 26 March 2011, 20:56:51 »
Have you check the mating surface between wheel and disc, and between the hub and disc is perfectly flat and brushed off, could be some rust or loose bits trapped in between the surfaces causing uneven brake wobble.

Wire brush em.
just something else to check

118
I was in a sticky situation when i bought my car, no locking wheel nut key.
Sounds the same as yours too, with the 3 prong thing.

Yes providing you have the original key there should be a number stamped on it.
If these are original VX parts, then VX will be able to replace the key for a fee.

Other option, like i had to, is remove them by other means..
If they are the same as mine were, they will have an outer shielding which is designed to spin (anti theft).
You need to split this off the rest of the nut using a chisel or similar point hittable device.
Then once shielding is removed, i was able to tap (i mean knock really) a 16-17mm socket onto the nut using a lump hammer.
It should be fairly easy to be honest, as long as you use a decent socket it will take the stress of it.
I used a Draper expert 12point socket, seemed to fit better than the lesser point ones.

Impact socket i ideal for strength, but most of them are lesser points, so harder to knock on.

Anyways, once knocked on, put your breaker bar on it and turn away, should loosen off just fine if on tight. Then before unscrewing the bolt all the way, take off your breaker and tap the socket with a hammer again, mash the nut as much as you like to get it off. Socket should stay intact and then undo by hand once you have the socket off.

And repeat.

This is all that VX will do if you take it to them.
My VX dealer said no they would not do mine as they have broken too many tools in the past.

I did mine by myself in 10 mins...was easy once i got the shielding off each one.

have a crack at it and see what happens.

119
Omega General Help / Re: Price for TC water pump for TD please?
« on: 23 March 2011, 00:56:14 »
Quote
Its stupid money from GM, so you'll have to use pattern, as you suspected :y

Cheers, plenty of them about it seems.
What with it being BMW pattern.

Easy to get hold of and not too pricey so far.
Just need to get it all done and dusted by friday at the latest.

Morning will tell

120
Omega General Help / Re: Price for TC water pump for TD please?
« on: 22 March 2011, 20:26:04 »
Have a slight suspicion now that this part is not available through TC.

hmm, will start calling local motorfactors in the morning for prices.

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